DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Button 629
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 629
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Winter's Night Enchantment Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Karisma. Piece knitted top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL

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DROPS 217-9

#wintersnightenchantmentjacket

DROPS design: Pattern u-904
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-116-130-142 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-45¾"-51¼"-55 3/4
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 53, anthracite
200-200-200-250-250-250 g color no 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 = 16" and 60 = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTON, Marble NR 629: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Button 629
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 629
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 94 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 edge stitches) and divide the remaining 92 stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 29) = 3.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch (do not increase over edge stitches). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

ELEVATION (in back of neck):
To make the jacket higher in the back of neck when working round yoke work an elevation as explained below. Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on row. Begin from right side with anthracite and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past stitch with marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 25-27-29-31-31-33. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 37-40-43-46-46-49, turn, tighten yarn and purl 49-53-57-61-61-65. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 61-66-71-76-76-81, turn, tighten yarn and purl 73-79-85-91-91-97, turn, tighten yarn and knit the rest of row (work band in garter stitch). Work 1 row from wrong side. Then work YOKE as explained in pattern.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
If the knitting gauge is wrong vertically and the garment is worked to tight, it will be too short and the armhole will be too small - this can be adjusted by working 1 row more evenly in the sections with one color.
If the garment is too loose, it will be too long and the armhole too big, this can be adjusted by working 1 row less in the sections in one color.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve as follows:
S: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker mid under sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, marker, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).
M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work until 2 stitches remain before stitch with marker, knit 2 together with anthracite, knit stitch with marker with anthracite, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE ON NECK EDGE:
When neck edge measures 1½ = ½" to 2 cm = ¾", decrease for 1 buttonhole on right side of neck edge (when garment is worn).
Decrease from right side when 5 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, purl the next 2 stitches together, knit 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Work the bands at the end.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches (including 6 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with anthracite. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1⅛" – remember BUTTONHOLE in right side – read explanation above.
When rib has been worked, switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Work next row as follows from right side: Bind off the first 6 stitches (fasten band here later), make 1 yarn over, knit the next 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 29-29-33-33-37-41 stitches evenly over these 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches - read INCREASE TIP, then work rib as before over the next 5 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Turn and bind off the first 6 stitches, make 1 yarn over (on next row, knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole) and purl the rest of the stitches, apart from the yarn overs which are purled twisted (avoid holes) and edge stitches (the outermost stitch on each side of the piece) which are worked in garter stitch = 123-127-135-139-147-155
stitches on row.
Insert 1 marker after edge stitch at the beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!
Now work an ELEVATION in the back of neck - read explanation above. If you do not want an elevation, skip directly to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rows in stockinette stitch with anthracite and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
Read KNITTING TIP and work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 2 stitches remain on row (= 30-31-33-34-36-38 repetitions of 4 stitches), work first stitch in A.1 (so that pattern begins and ends the same way in each side towards mid front), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this. When A.1 has been worked vertically, work A.2 the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.1 and A.2, increase stitches evenly as explained below - remember INCREASE TIP:

SIZE S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-38-42 stitches evenly = 159-165-177 stitches (there is now room for 26-27-29 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 64-58-66 stitches evenly = 223-223-243 stitches (there is now room for 11-11-12 repetitions of 20 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-40-36 stitches evenly = 255-263-279 stitches (there is now room for 63-65-69 repetitions of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 30-34-36 stitches evenly = 285-297-315 stitches (there is now room for 47-49-52 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-30-36 stitches evenly = 309-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 51-54-58 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6 (only applies to M and L since S is divided for body and sleeves before this border begins): Increase 4-4 stitches evenly = 309-331-355 stitches (there is now room for 41-44 repetitions of 8 stitches in M and L).

SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 44-48-52 stitches evenly = 183-195-207 stitches (there is now room for 30-32-34 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-48-54 stitches evenly = 225-243-261 stitches (there is now room for 37-40-43 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 18-20-22 stitches evenly = 243-263-283 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14 repetitions of 20 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 60-64-68 stitches evenly = 303-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-87 repetitions of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 54-54-60 stitches evenly = 357-381-411 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-68 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 30-30-30 stitches evenly = 387-411-441 stitches (there is now room for 64-68-73 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-10 stitches evenly = 395-419-451 stitches (there is now room for 49-52-56 repetitions of 8 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Work until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8¼"-9"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜"-12¼" from marker in neck. NOTE! In some sizes some rows of A.2 will remain when piece is divided for body and sleeves - finish the rest of A.2 on body and sleeves.
Divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 91-99-105-115-127-139 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 195-211-227-247-275-299 stitches.
Finish A.2, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front - make sure that pattern fits nicely over A.2 on yoke but note that pattern does not fit under sleeves in all sizes when working the last rows in A.2.
When A.2 has been worked, work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 2 stitches remain on row and increase 6-8-10-8-10-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, work first stitch in A.3 (so that pattern begins and ends the same way in each side towards mid front), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 201-219-237-255-285-309 stitches on row. There is now room for 33-36-39-42-47-51 repetitions A.3 of 6 stitches.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures approx. 22 cm = 8¾" from division in all sizes, but finish after a row with dots.
Approx. 10 cm = 4" remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work A.3 in the until desired length.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work first stitch in A.4 (seen from right side), work A.4 until 1 stitch remains on row (read diagram from left to right when working from wrong side) and increase at the same time 2-0-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly over these stitches, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 203-219-239-255-287-311 stitches on row. There is now room for 50-54-59-63-71-77 repetitions A.4 of 4 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked, piece measures approx. 28 cm = 11" from division. Work the rest of the body in anthracite.
Purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 45-49-53-57-65-69 stitches evenly = 248-268-292-312-352-380 stitches. Increase stitches to avoid the rib from contracting when working the piece together.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work first row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND OFF TIP! Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 – pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 69-72-80-90-92-96 stitches.
Now insert 2 markers in piece (this is done without working the stitches):

S:
Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve between the middle 6 stitches, count 34 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch = 34 stitches remain on round after stitch with marker.

M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Begin mid under sleeve between the 6-8-8-10-10 stitches, insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-39-44-45-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch = 35-39-44-45-47 stitches remain on round after stitch with marker.

ALL SIZES:
Move markers upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve. Use marker mid on top of sleeve when counting out where pattern should start.
Then work PATTERN at the same time DECREASE mid under sleeve as explained below - read the rest of sleeve before continuing:

PATTERN:
Begin round mid under sleeve and finish A.2 the same way as on body, but count outwards from the middle of sleeve where pattern should begin - stitch with marker mid on top of sleeve should fit stitch marked with star in A.2 (decrease under sleeve while working the pattern).
When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round the same way. Repeat A.3 vertically until sleeve measures approx. 34-32-31-29-28-26 cm = 13⅜"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜"-11"-10¼" from division, but finish after a round with dots. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Approx. 10 cm = 4" remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work A.3 in the until desired length. Then work A.4 in the round.

DECREASE:
AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1⅛"-1"-¾"-½"-½"-½" 12-13-16-20-20-20 times in total = 45-46-48-50-52-56 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked and decreases are done, sleeve measures approx. 40-38-37-35-34-32 cm = 15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜"-12½" from division. Work the rest of the sleeve in anthracite.
Knit 1 round while increasing 7-6-8-10-8-8 stitches evenly = 52-52-56-60-60-64 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-39-38-36 cm = 17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-15"-14¼" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

LEFT BAND (when garment is worn):
Pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch approx. 132-136-144-148-152-160 stitches along mid front piece on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with anthracite (number of stitches should be divisible by 4).
Work first row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for approx. 3 cm = 1⅛" – adjust so band is the same width as the 6 stitches bind off in the neck edge. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work the same way as left band but after approx. 1 to 1½ cm = ⅜"-½" decrease evenly for 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes. Place bottom buttonhole approx. 10 cm = 4" from bottom edge, and place top buttonhole approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛" from buttonhole on neck edge. NOTE! It will look better to decrease in a purl section (seen from right side) by making 1 yarn over and then purling 2 stitches together. On next row knit yarn overs to make holes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew edge at the top of band neatly to neck edge inside 1 edge stitch with seam in towards wrong side.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = anthracite
symbols = off white
symbols = increase row
symbols = middle stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Winter's Night Enchantment Jacket

Donckers Pamela, Belgium

Winters Night Enchantment Jacket

Agathe Pouliquen, France

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 217-9

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Mima Suvalija wrote:

Kan oppskrift sendes i posten?

19.04.2024 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mima. Du kan laste ned oppskriften og skrive de ut. Har du ikke printer, kontakt ditt lokale bibliotekt, mulig de kan hjelpe. mvh DROPS Design

22.04.2024 - 13:00

country flag Laura Cole wrote:

Are there instructions for knitting in the round and steeking?

07.09.2023 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cole, there is no extra pattern with steek stitches, but this video might help you. Happy knitting!

08.09.2023 - 07:51

country flag Ann wrote:

Picking up sts for the underarm, there appears to be an error. Size L 72 sts plus 8 from cast on = 80 sts. Moving on to the next point, markers and dividing we now appear to have 8 extra sts…. Where did they come from ?

08.01.2023 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ann, in this paragrah M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:, L is now the 2nd size, ie insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 39 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch = 39 stitches remain on round after stitch with marker = 1+39+1+39=80 sts. Happy knitting!

09.01.2023 - 10:16

country flag Melanie wrote:

Hallo, wird die passe in runden gestrickt und dann später aufgetrennt? Oder wird das Muster hin und zurück gestrickt?

09.10.2022 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, die Passe stricken Sie in Hin- und Rückreihen vom Anfang bis zur Ende, nur die Ärmel werden in Runden gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.10.2022 - 09:27

country flag Fernando wrote:

Hacen envíos de los materiales a Japón? Como hago para pedir y comprar los materiales? Gracias!

11.11.2021 - 01:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Fernando, puedes consultar las tiendas con envío internacional en el siguiente enlace: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=19

14.11.2021 - 19:11

country flag Fernando wrote:

Hola! Muchas gracias por tanta inspiración! Quiero preguntar si envían materiales a Japón. Me gustaría comprar de ustedes las llamas necesarias. Es posible? Como lo hago? Gracias!

11.11.2021 - 01:26

country flag JOHAN Catherine wrote:

Bonjour. J'ai imprimé le modèle de gilet 217-9. Mais les pages où se trouvent les diagrammes ne s'impriment pas. De même pour la page où se trouvent les dimensions du tricot. Pouvez vous le dire comment faire ? J'attends votre réponse pour commander la laine. Merci.

28.04.2021 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Johan, j'ai pu imprimer ce modèle pour tester et tout à bien fonctionné. Pensez à vérifier les paramètres de votre imprimante pour que toutes les pages soient imprimées, les diagrammes se trouvent sur les pages 7 et 8 et le schéma des mesures sur la page 9. Bon tricot!

28.04.2021 - 11:23

country flag Alison MacDonaldcan I wrote:

Can I have this pattern in English please? Mange tak. Alison

01.11.2020 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alison, you can change the language under the photo in the pattern. The UK English version is here: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=9894&cid=19

01.11.2020 - 16:10

country flag Sofia Broborg wrote:

Hej! Vart har A1 tagit vägen? Ni har skrivit att ni lagt ut det men det finns inte där, men två måttskisser i stället... 😅

29.09.2020 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sofia. A.1 finns precis över måttskissen (jag ser bara en måttskiss). Kanske du måste uppdatera sidan eller byta webläsare för att se det? Mvh DROPS Design

30.09.2020 - 07:11

country flag Lucia Van Den Berg wrote:

De telpatronen die bij dit vest staan kloppen niet met het patroon op de foto. Wanneer worden de goede telpatronen toegevoegd A1 ontbreekt in ieder geval.

28.09.2020 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lucia,

Inmiddels staan de juiste telpatronen erbij. A.1 staat links onderin bij de telpatronen.

10.10.2020 - 11:40

Winter's Night Enchantment Jacket



Knitted jacket in DROPS Karisma. Piece knitted top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 217-9
DROPS design: Pattern u-904
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-116-130-142 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-45¾"-51¼"-55 3/4
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 53, anthracite
200-200-200-250-250-250 g color no 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 = 16" and 60 = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTON, Marble NR 629: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 94 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 edge stitches) and divide the remaining 92 stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 29) = 3.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch (do not increase over edge stitches). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

ELEVATION (in back of neck):
To make the jacket higher in the back of neck when working round yoke work an elevation as explained below. Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on row. Begin from right side with anthracite and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past stitch with marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 25-27-29-31-31-33. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 37-40-43-46-46-49, turn, tighten yarn and purl 49-53-57-61-61-65. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 61-66-71-76-76-81, turn, tighten yarn and purl 73-79-85-91-91-97, turn, tighten yarn and knit the rest of row (work band in garter stitch). Work 1 row from wrong side. Then work YOKE as explained in pattern.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
If the knitting gauge is wrong vertically and the garment is worked to tight, it will be too short and the armhole will be too small - this can be adjusted by working 1 row more evenly in the sections with one color.
If the garment is too loose, it will be too long and the armhole too big, this can be adjusted by working 1 row less in the sections in one color.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve as follows:
S: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker mid under sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, marker, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).
M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work until 2 stitches remain before stitch with marker, knit 2 together with anthracite, knit stitch with marker with anthracite, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE ON NECK EDGE:
When neck edge measures 1½ = ½" to 2 cm = ¾", decrease for 1 buttonhole on right side of neck edge (when garment is worn).
Decrease from right side when 5 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, purl the next 2 stitches together, knit 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Work the bands at the end.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches (including 6 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with anthracite. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, knit 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1⅛" – remember BUTTONHOLE in right side – read explanation above.
When rib has been worked, switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Work next row as follows from right side: Bind off the first 6 stitches (fasten band here later), make 1 yarn over, knit the next 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches AT THE SAME TIME increase 29-29-33-33-37-41 stitches evenly over these 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches - read INCREASE TIP, then work rib as before over the next 5 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Turn and bind off the first 6 stitches, make 1 yarn over (on next row, knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole) and purl the rest of the stitches, apart from the yarn overs which are purled twisted (avoid holes) and edge stitches (the outermost stitch on each side of the piece) which are worked in garter stitch = 123-127-135-139-147-155
stitches on row.
Insert 1 marker after edge stitch at the beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker!
Now work an ELEVATION in the back of neck - read explanation above. If you do not want an elevation, skip directly to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rows in stockinette stitch with anthracite and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
Read KNITTING TIP and work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 2 stitches remain on row (= 30-31-33-34-36-38 repetitions of 4 stitches), work first stitch in A.1 (so that pattern begins and ends the same way in each side towards mid front), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this. When A.1 has been worked vertically, work A.2 the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on every row marked with arrow in A.1 and A.2, increase stitches evenly as explained below - remember INCREASE TIP:

SIZE S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-38-42 stitches evenly = 159-165-177 stitches (there is now room for 26-27-29 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 64-58-66 stitches evenly = 223-223-243 stitches (there is now room for 11-11-12 repetitions of 20 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-40-36 stitches evenly = 255-263-279 stitches (there is now room for 63-65-69 repetitions of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 30-34-36 stitches evenly = 285-297-315 stitches (there is now room for 47-49-52 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-30-36 stitches evenly = 309-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 51-54-58 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6 (only applies to M and L since S is divided for body and sleeves before this border begins): Increase 4-4 stitches evenly = 309-331-355 stitches (there is now room for 41-44 repetitions of 8 stitches in M and L).

SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 44-48-52 stitches evenly = 183-195-207 stitches (there is now room for 30-32-34 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-48-54 stitches evenly = 225-243-261 stitches (there is now room for 37-40-43 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 18-20-22 stitches evenly = 243-263-283 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14 repetitions of 20 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 60-64-68 stitches evenly = 303-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-87 repetitions of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 54-54-60 stitches evenly = 357-381-411 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-68 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 30-30-30 stitches evenly = 387-411-441 stitches (there is now room for 64-68-73 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-10 stitches evenly = 395-419-451 stitches (there is now room for 49-52-56 repetitions of 8 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Work until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8¼"-9"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜"-12¼" from marker in neck. NOTE! In some sizes some rows of A.2 will remain when piece is divided for body and sleeves - finish the rest of A.2 on body and sleeves.
Divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 91-99-105-115-127-139 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 195-211-227-247-275-299 stitches.
Finish A.2, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front - make sure that pattern fits nicely over A.2 on yoke but note that pattern does not fit under sleeves in all sizes when working the last rows in A.2.
When A.2 has been worked, work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 2 stitches remain on row and increase 6-8-10-8-10-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, work first stitch in A.3 (so that pattern begins and ends the same way in each side towards mid front), and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 201-219-237-255-285-309 stitches on row. There is now room for 33-36-39-42-47-51 repetitions A.3 of 6 stitches.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures approx. 22 cm = 8¾" from division in all sizes, but finish after a row with dots.
Approx. 10 cm = 4" remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work A.3 in the until desired length.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work first stitch in A.4 (seen from right side), work A.4 until 1 stitch remains on row (read diagram from left to right when working from wrong side) and increase at the same time 2-0-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly over these stitches, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 203-219-239-255-287-311 stitches on row. There is now room for 50-54-59-63-71-77 repetitions A.4 of 4 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked, piece measures approx. 28 cm = 11" from division. Work the rest of the body in anthracite.
Purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 45-49-53-57-65-69 stitches evenly = 248-268-292-312-352-380 stitches. Increase stitches to avoid the rib from contracting when working the piece together.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work first row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, knit 2, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND OFF TIP! Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 – pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 69-72-80-90-92-96 stitches.
Now insert 2 markers in piece (this is done without working the stitches):

S:
Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve between the middle 6 stitches, count 34 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch = 34 stitches remain on round after stitch with marker.

M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Begin mid under sleeve between the 6-8-8-10-10 stitches, insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-39-44-45-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch = 35-39-44-45-47 stitches remain on round after stitch with marker.

ALL SIZES:
Move markers upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve. Use marker mid on top of sleeve when counting out where pattern should start.
Then work PATTERN at the same time DECREASE mid under sleeve as explained below - read the rest of sleeve before continuing:

PATTERN:
Begin round mid under sleeve and finish A.2 the same way as on body, but count outwards from the middle of sleeve where pattern should begin - stitch with marker mid on top of sleeve should fit stitch marked with star in A.2 (decrease under sleeve while working the pattern).
When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round the same way. Repeat A.3 vertically until sleeve measures approx. 34-32-31-29-28-26 cm = 13⅜"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜"-11"-10¼" from division, but finish after a round with dots. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Approx. 10 cm = 4" remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work A.3 in the until desired length. Then work A.4 in the round.

DECREASE:
AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1⅛"-1"-¾"-½"-½"-½" 12-13-16-20-20-20 times in total = 45-46-48-50-52-56 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked and decreases are done, sleeve measures approx. 40-38-37-35-34-32 cm = 15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜"-12½" from division. Work the rest of the sleeve in anthracite.
Knit 1 round while increasing 7-6-8-10-8-8 stitches evenly = 52-52-56-60-60-64 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-39-38-36 cm = 17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-15"-14¼" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

LEFT BAND (when garment is worn):
Pick up from right side inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch approx. 132-136-144-148-152-160 stitches along mid front piece on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with anthracite (number of stitches should be divisible by 4).
Work first row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for approx. 3 cm = 1⅛" – adjust so band is the same width as the 6 stitches bind off in the neck edge. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work the same way as left band but after approx. 1 to 1½ cm = ⅜"-½" decrease evenly for 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes. Place bottom buttonhole approx. 10 cm = 4" from bottom edge, and place top buttonhole approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛" from buttonhole on neck edge. NOTE! It will look better to decrease in a purl section (seen from right side) by making 1 yarn over and then purling 2 stitches together. On next row knit yarn overs to make holes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew edge at the top of band neatly to neck edge inside 1 edge stitch with seam in towards wrong side.
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram explanations
symbol = anthracite
symbol = off white
symbol = increase row
symbol = middle stitch

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