How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

This description can be used for both knitting and crocheting.

This is how we calculate a pattern from the knitting tension:

Always check the size chart to find the size you need.
See here for a lesson on how to read our size charts.

Calculation:
The pattern is calculated so that the measurements given in the chart will be the measurements of the finished garment.
For this calculation we need the knitting tension, and then the process is as follows:

If 10 cm in width = 20 stitches in width,
then 1 cm in width is (20/10) = 2 stitches.
If the width of the body is 48 cm, then we need
48 cm x 2 stitches = 96 stitches.

Consequences:
If you get 22 stitches on 10 cm instead of 20 stitches, your garment will be 5 cm narrower than the measurements in the diagram.

All stitch counts in the pattern are calculated from the given knitting tension and this affects everything: e.g. the shaping of the neck – the increases on sleeves – the cast-on edge - raglan etc.

So you need to change the size of the needle :)


Knitting tension and gauge swatch:

Gauge swatch:
To make sure the measurements on your garment = the measurements in the pattern, you should always start by working a swatch – to arrive at the correct knitting tension.

Cast on more stitches than the knitting tension states for 10 cm in width and work slightly more than 10 cm in height, starting with the suggested needle size.

If the knitting tension is:
20 stitches in width and 27 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
Lay a tape measure on the piece and count the stitches:
20 stitches = 10 cm in width and 27 rows in height = 10 cm.

Result / consequence:
More than 20 stitches – change to a larger needle size
Less than 20 stitches – change to a smaller needle size.

When you have found the correct needle size, you are ready to start.
Remember to check the knitting tension as you go; it can vary as you work through the garment.


Right or wrong needle size:

Needle size:
There is no correct needle size; everyone’s knitting is different.

The given needle size is only a guide.

Find the needle size to get the correct knitting tension – if you need to use needle size 6 mm, when the pattern suggests needle size 4 mm, then do so.

Our own design team uses different needles sizes when knitting with the same yarn. This is very common.


Types of needles:
This is very individual.

There are needles made of wood, bamboo, metal, plastic, as well as other materials.
One finds their favourite, and it’s normal to use a different knitting tension when using different types of needles (circular, double pointed, etc.).

So if it doesn’t work when you try a knitting tension with – for instance - metal needles, try another material, like birch, and see if it works better for you.

Comments (292)

Laura wrote:

Ciao, se volessi fare un cardigan incrociato con il ferro 3,5 ma nel vostro modello è segnato ferro n 5 o 5,5 come posso calcolare le maglie corrette per avviare il lavoro e per fare gli scalfi dell emaniche? grazie mille laura

27.02.2024 - 01:50:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2024 - 13:51:

Helena wrote:

Vilken typ av stickning ska man göra testet med? Baby blue note är räta fram och tillbaka på rundstickor, är det så jag ska sticka när jag gör stickfasthetstestet? Eller räta och varannan aviga?

17.02.2024 - 23:34:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helena. Selv om genseren er strikket i rätstickning, må du strikke prøvelappen i slätstickning. Slik står det i oppskriften: STICKFASTHET: 16 maskor på bredden och 22 varv på höjden med slätstickning = 10 x 10 cm. mvh DROPS Design

26.02.2024 - 08:44:

Clara wrote:

What is "wrong" if the stitches of the trial piece are 10cm wide (as they are supposed to be) but the rows indicated only reach up to 8cm? If I switch to a bigger sized needle, the stitches will be more than 10cm wide. The trial piece should be 14st by 16r but they are 14st by 20r. Should I just add rows to the pattern and work with the cm only?

15.02.2024 - 22:53:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Clara, you will have to work more rows to get the finished measurements, for some patterns (raglan/round yokes) you might have to adjust by working more rounds on yoke to get the finished measurements. You will need also more yarn, make sure to get enough. Happy knitting!

16.02.2024 - 08:03:

Kati Csaba wrote:

I campioni devono essere lavati ed asciugati prima di contare i punti e le file dentro ai 10 cm? Grazie.

10.02.2024 - 08:59:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Kati, deve trattare il campione come il capo finale prima di prendere le misure. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2024 - 13:54:

Yolanda wrote:

Hoe weet ik hoeveel bollen wol moet kopen

08.02.2024 - 21:44:

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yolanda,

Bovenaan bij de materialenlijst staat per maat aangegeven hoeveel gram je nodig hebt. (Het eerste getal geldt voor maat S, het tweede getal voor maat M, enzovoort). 1 bol weegt meestal 50 gram, maar let erop dat dit per garensoort verschillend kan zijn. Dus als er bijvoorbeeld 400 gram staat dan zou je 8 bollen nodig hebben als 1 bol 50 gram weegt.

01.03.2024 - 08:11:

Karen Rojas wrote:

Hola ! Quiero hacer este modelo. ( Lost in the Sky Top Talla M ) Las agujas recomendadas son 3mm y 2;5 para un total de 24 x 32 en la muestra .Para llegar a obtener esos puntos he tenido que hacer la muestra con agujas de 2mm . La pregunta es: que agujas debo usar para el cuello y el elástico ,ya que no hay una aguja de tamaño más pequeño que esté. Y los puntos al montar la labor son iguales en tallas S y M . Gracias por la ayuda

29.01.2024 - 21:37:

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Karen, en DROPS no tenemos agujas más pequeñas pero deberías poder encontrar agujas de 1.5mm que podrían servirte en este caso. ¿Has trabajado la muestra en redondo? Este patrón se trabaja en redondo y, normalmente, la muestra de ida y vuelta queda más floja (por el giro al lado revés) que la muestra en redondo. Por lo que a lo mejor puedes trabajar con una aguja de 2.5mm de esta manera. Los puntos de montaje pueden ser iguales en diferentes tallas, porque la circunferencia de la cabeza no varía tanto entre tamaños; más tarde los números de puntos variarán más cuando comiences a hacer aumentos para el canesú por ejemplo.

29.01.2024 - 23:03:

Noemi wrote:

È possibile avere una fotografia del dietro? Viene una striscia di quanti cm a legaccio? Grazie mille. Sto avendo difficoltà a capire il modello

29.01.2024 - 20:14:

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Noemi, sta facendo riferimento ad un modello in particolare? Si ricordi che può scrivere la sua richiesta direttamente nella pagina del modello, e per noi sarà più semplice aiutarla. Buon lavoro!

03.02.2024 - 11:45:

Jennifer Haunch wrote:

I need to get tension of 22 stitches and 28 rows to be 10cm but it’s measuring 3.5 inches. It’s using 4mm needles which way do I go because you can’t get 4.25 mm needles

23.01.2024 - 16:36:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jennifer, which yarn and pattern are you working? Also, which is your complete gauge? Is it a 3.5 in square? Or is in 3.5 in in width or in height? Please indicate this information so that we may better help you. Happy knitting!

28.01.2024 - 21:11:

Juliet wrote:

Thank you for your reply, what is the ‘rule of three’!

23.01.2024 - 08:24:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Juliet, rule of three is a type of mathematical calculation for guessing one value from others. Here is an example in this lesson: If 10 cm in width = 20 stitches in width, how many stitches are there in 1cm in width? 1 cm in width has (20stitches/10cm) = 2 stitches. This is more easily calculated when you write them out in a piece of paper. You can look for "rule of three mathematics" and it should show you other examples. Happy knitting!

28.01.2024 - 20:31:

Juliet wrote:

Thank you for your reply, what is the ‘rule of three’?

23.01.2024 - 08:22:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Juliet, rule of three is a type of mathematical calculation for guessing one value from others. Here is an example in this lesson: If 10 cm in width = 20 stitches in width, how many stitches are there in 1cm in width? 1 cm in width has (20stitches/10cm) = 2 stitches. This is more easily calculated when you write them out in a piece of paper. You can look for "rule of three mathematics" and it should show you other examples. Happy knitting!

28.01.2024 - 20:31:

Juliet wrote:

I have knit 4 garnstudio patterns and I never seem to have the correct tension, I am always needing to go up 2 needle sizes to achieve correct tension which is making the knitting too loose. Could I use the suggested needles but work a larger size jumper if I worked out what size it would be? Not sure if the pattern would still work! Thank you 😊

22.01.2024 - 17:54:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Juliet, each person has a different personal gauge; you may work tighter than our designers, so your gauge will always be slightly tighter than the one indicated in the pattern and you will need larger needles each time. If you get the correct tension with larger needles, these shouldn't make the knitting too loose, because it should be the same tension as in the swatch. You can also work a larger size jumper if you calculate which one you can do with your gauge, using a rule of three. Happy knitting!

22.01.2024 - 20:08:

Kristine wrote:

Hi, I really find it difficult to figure out the kniting tension for 21 stitches - 40cm - 10x10. I am a total newbie and no idea where to start!

21.01.2024 - 10:19:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kristine, which pattern are you working? 10x10 cm means that you should make a square that measures 10cm in height and width. With the numbers that you mention, it should be 21 stitches x 40 rows = 10x10cm. This means that, before starting the piece, you work a swatch that has 21 stitches and work 40 rows with 21 stitches (in stocking stitch or as specificied in the gauge) and it should measure 10x10cm. If it doesn't measure 10cm in width and height, then you change needle size, as specified in this lesson. Happy knitting!

22.01.2024 - 20:14:

Beata wrote:

Bardzo przydatna instrukcja obliczania próbki, dziękuję.

20.01.2024 - 18:29:

Victoria wrote:

Hola! Hice la muestra y llegó a los 10 cm en la hilera 27, no en la 33. Deberé cambiar a una aguja 4,5mm?

19.01.2024 - 18:02:

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Victoria, qué patrón estás trabajando? Normalmente, lo más importante es que el número de puntos en 10 cm (el ancho) sea correcto, el número de filas se puede ajustar a medida que trabajas. Pero depende del patrón utilizado. Si nos indicas el patrón que estás trabajando y tu tensión completa (cuántos puntos en 10 cm) podremos ayudarte más.

22.01.2024 - 22:58:

Tilly wrote:

Please may I ask a question. As a total beginner, would it be possible to replace the twisted rib on pattern Visit Vienna, with regular rib. I understand I will lose the beautiful pattern feature. Thank you for your help.m

16.01.2024 - 09:13:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tilly, sure, you can work regular rib K1,P1 if your like just note that it will then look somewhat different. Happy knitting!

17.01.2024 - 09:43:

Nicola Francis wrote:

I want to make the smallest size in this jumper. I have knitted a swatch for this pattern but I have 4 sts too many on the row (25) and 3 extra rows (31) to make 10 x 10 cm. I can’t find 4.25 circular needles anywhere online, so should i go up to 4.5? If so, should I do the rib using 4cm needles? I could do another swatch, but will i have enough wool to do a second one? Thank you

14.01.2024 - 19:53:

Marjatta wrote:

Answering... "Therefore, you need to use the main needle that is used for the specific pattern or most of it. For example, if you use a smaller needle for the rib and change to a larger needle for the rest of the piece, then the gauge is worked with the main, larger needle. If you could indicate to us which pattern you are working we may clarify which needle is used for the gauge" Thank you! I'm starting to knit December Bloom :-).

14.01.2024 - 14:00:

Marjatta wrote:

Hi, if you use two different sizes of needles (3,5 in round yoke, 4 in other parts), which one (3,5 or 4) does the knitting tension mean?

13.01.2024 - 19:31:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marjatta, usually the gauge states which kind of stitch you are working (stocking stitch, garter stitch or even the specific chart). Therefore, you need to use the main needle that is used for the specific pattern or most of it. For example, if you use a smaller needle for the rib and change to a larger needle for the rest of the piece, then the gauge is worked with the main, larger needle. If you could indicate to us which pattern you are working we may clarify which needle is used for the gauge. Happy knitting!

14.01.2024 - 13:28:

Denise wrote:

If pattern is knitted with two strands should tension square be the same. Also what is equivalent yarn in Australia for Midara Angoria6 please

11.01.2024 - 06:03:

Denise wrote:

If a garment is knitted with two strands should the tension swatch be knitted the same. Also what is equivalent yarn in Australia for Midara Angoria6 yarn please.

11.01.2024 - 06:01:

Leave a comment or question to this lesson

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *.