DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$.

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Winter's Night Enchantment

Knitted sweater for men in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

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DROPS 219-15

#wintersnightenchantmentsweater

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-915
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-116-124-142 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-45¾"-48¾"-55¾"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 53, anthracite
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 28) = 3.3. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.
ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the back of the neck slightly higher when working the yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the start of the round = mid-back. Start from the right side with anthracite and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past the marker-stitch, turn, tighten strand and purl 24-26-28-30-30-32 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 36-39-42-45-45-48 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 48-52-56-60-60-64 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 60-65-70-75-75-80 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 72-78-84-90-90-96 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit back to mid-back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working the pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is too tight in height, the garment will be short and the armholes too small – you can correct this by regularly working an extra row in the one-colored sections.
If your work is loose, the garment will be too long and the armholes too big – you can correct this by regularly working one less row in the one-colored sections.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve as follows:
S: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, marker, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).
M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, knit the marker stitch with anthracite and knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and anthracite. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2".
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit 1 round where you increase 28-28-32-32-36-40 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 120-124-132-136-144-152 stitches.
Insert 1 marker mid-front; the yoke is measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rounds of stockinette stitch with anthracite. Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 in the round (= 30-31-33-34-36-38 repeats of 4 stitches).
Continue this pattern and when A.1 has been completed, work A.2 in the same way REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.2 increase stitches as described below – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:

SIZES S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-38-42 stitches evenly spaced = 156-162-174 stitches (there is now room for 26-27-29 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 64-58-66 stitches evenly spaced = 220-220-240 stitches (there is now room for 11-11-12 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-40-36 stitches evenly spaced = 252-260-276 stitches (there is now room for 63-65-69 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced = 282-294-312 stitches (there is now room for 47-49-52 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-30-36 stitches evenly spaced = 306-324-348 stitches (there is now room for 51-54-58 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6 (only in sizes M and L, because in S the piece is divided for the body and sleeves before this section starts): Increase 4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 306-328-352 stitches (there is now room for 41-44 repeats of 8 stitches in sizes M and L).

SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 44-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 180-192-204 stitches (there is now room for 30-32-34 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-48-54 stitches evenly spaced = 222-240-258 stitches (there is now room for 37-40-43 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 18-20-22 stitches evenly spaced = 240-260-280 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 60-64-68 stitches evenly spaced = 300-324-348 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-87 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 54-54-60 stitches evenly spaced = 354-378-408 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-68 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 30-30-30 stitches evenly spaced = 384-408-438 stitches (there is now room for 64-68-73 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 392-416-448 stitches (there is now room for 49-52-56 repeats of 8 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm = 8¾"-9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½" from the marker on the neck. NOTE: In some sizes there will be a number of rows left in A.2 when you divide for the body and sleeves – the rest of A.2 will be worked on the body and sleeves.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 45-49-52-57-63-69 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-114-126-138 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 45-49-52-57-63-69 stitches as before (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 192-208-224-244-272-296 stitches.
Finish A.2 – make sure the pattern matches the A.2 on the yoke, but be aware that the pattern does not fit under the sleeves in all sizes when working the last rows in A.2.
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 192-210-228-246-276-300 stitches. There is now room for 32-35-38-41-46-50 repeats of A.3 with 6 stitches.
Repeat A.3 in height until the piece measures approx. 27 cm = 10⅝" from the division in all sizes, finishing after a row with «spots».
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the sweater on and continue A.3 to desired length.

Work A.4 in the round – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 192-208-224-244-272-296 stitches (there is now room for 48-52-56-61-68-74 repeats of A.4 with 4 stitches).
When A.4 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 33 cm = 13" from the division. The body is finished with anthracite.
Knit 1 round where you increase 40-44-44-48-56-60 stitches evenly spaced = 232-252-268-292-328-356 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½".
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The sweater measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 69-72-80-90-92-96 stitches. Insert 2 markers in the piece without working the stitches:

S:
Insert 1 marker mid-under the sleeve in the middle of the middle 6 stitches, count 34 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 34 stitches left to end of round.

M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Start mid-under the sleeve, in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-10 stitches, insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-39-44-45-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 35-39-44-45-47 stitches left to end of round.

ALL SIZES:
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; the marker under the sleeve is used when decreasing under the sleeve. The marker on top is when positioning the start of the pattern.
Continue with PATTERN at the same time as you DECREASE mid-under the sleeve as described below – read the rest of the sleeve section before continuing:

PATTERN:
Start the round mid-under the sleeve and finish A.2 in the same way as on the body; count from the marker on top of the sleeve to the start of the pattern – the marker-stitch matches the stitch with the star in A.2 (decrease under the sleeve at the same time as you work the pattern).
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round in the same way. Repeat A.3 in height until the sleeve measures approx. 35-34-32-31-29-28 cm = 13¾"-13⅜"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜"-11" from the division, finishing after a round of "spots". NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the sweater on and continue A.3 to desired length. Then work A.4 in the round.

DECREASING:
At the same time, when the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1½"-1¼"-1"-¾"-½"-½" a total of 9-10-13-17-18-19 times = 51-52-54-56-56-58 stitches.
When A.4 has been completed and the decreases are finished, the sleeve measures approx. 41-40-38-37-35-34 cm = 16⅛"-15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜" from the division. Continue with anthracite.
Knit 1 round where you increase 9-8-10-8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 60-60-64-64-64-68 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-39-38 cm = 17¾"-17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-15" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.02.2021
Correction: BODY: ... When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 192-210-228-246-276-300 stitches.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = anthracite
symbols = off white
symbols = increase-round
symbols = mid-stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Winter's Night Enchantment

Даша Мосієнко, Finland

Winters Night Enchantment

Kris, United States

Winters Night Enchantment

Kaisa

Winters Night Enchantment

Makala, United States

Winters Night Enchantment

Soft Stop, Sweden

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Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Marisa wrote:

Liebes Drops Team Ich habe eine Frage zum Diagramm: Was ist eine Mittelmasche? Ist das sie Masche in der Mitte der Vorderseite, wo die Markierung ist? Danke

07.12.2024 - 00:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marisa, das Symbol für die Mittelmasche wird nur bei den Ärmeln benutzt, damit das Muster zentriert wird. In dieser Lektion erklären wir, wie man ein Diagram zentriert. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

09.12.2024 - 07:56

country flag Gunda Fink wrote:

Bei dem Muster Winters Night bei der Größe L kommt nach der Passe die Anleitung für die Pfeile .Bei Pfeil 5 steht 36 Maschen aufnehmen dann habe ich 348 Maschen dann kommt bei Pfeil 6, 4 Maschen zunehmen das man 328 Maschen hat?Ich habe ja schon durch die Zunahme bei Pfeil 5 ,348 Maschen das wären ja dann 352 Maschen .Dann kommt bä die Einteilung für das Vorder und Rückenteil und da hätte ich wenn ich alle Maschen zusammen rechne 368 Maschen wo kommen dann die restlichen 20 Maschen her?

24.07.2024 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gunda, die 352 Maschen sind in der Anleitung für Größe L genannt, nicht 328, diese gelten für Größe M: "= 306-328-352 Maschen" - die letzte Angabe ist die für Größe L. Bei der Teilung für das Vorderteil und das Rückenteil schlagen Sie zusätzlich an beiden Seiten des Rumpfteils für die Armausschnitte je 8 Maschen an, also sind es 16 neue Maschen, 352 + 16 = 368. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

26.07.2024 - 22:42

country flag Daniel wrote:

What is the best way to avoid visible jogs in the pattern?

03.07.2024 - 06:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Daniel, sice the pattern is rather busy, jogs are not to apparent, however, THIS video tutorial also might help you. Happy Stitching!

03.07.2024 - 08:16

country flag Eelke Storm wrote:

Heel mooi patroon. Ik heb het twee keer gebreid ( maat L en maat XXL) en beide keren heb kimme mouwen met 6 a 7 cm verlengd.

19.06.2024 - 11:24

country flag Jennie wrote:

Hello, I am knitting the Large pattern and I have just split for sleeves, and I now have total of 224 stitches for the body but I am still finishing A.2 but I am on a 6 stitch repeat which doesn't work for 224 stitches. How do I work these? Thanks!

15.02.2024 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jennie, You can either work the stitches which don't fit in stocking stitch under each sleeve or work part of a repeat of A.2 under each sleeve to give a slight "jump" in the pattern . Whichever you choose, make sure the main pattern is continued neatly from the yoke onto the body. Happy knitting!

16.02.2024 - 07:04

country flag Spiliotopoulos Andreas wrote:

Hello. I am making an XL size. Somehow I reached the division before arrow 7. So what should I do? Is it OK to increase 6+7 at the same time? Or something else? Thank you!

01.12.2023 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Spiliotopoulos, your tension in height might not be right, you might then to adjust the increase round to match your tension and the required measurements adjusting to the number of sts required for the diagram/repeats. Happy knitting!

01.12.2023 - 15:36

country flag Nicole Cointeaux wrote:

Toutes mes excuses Je n’avais pas lu correctement les explications !IL est noté de faire la rehausse après les cotes 2/2 !

18.09.2023 - 16:35

country flag Nicole Vointeaux wrote:

Bonjour J’ai une question a propos de la rehausse dos ,elle se fait avec quelque rangs de jersey et après on doit tricoter l’empiètement , il n’y a donc pa d’encolure en cotes 2/2 , Peut-on tricoter la rehausse en cote s 2/2 ou bien tricoter en cotes2/2 après la rehausse Merci de me conseiller Nicole

18.09.2023 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vointeaux, la réhausse se tricote en jersey après le col (on tricote d'abord 5 cm de côtes, 1 tour en ajustant le nombre de mailles, puis on tricote cette réhausse en jersey, avant de commencer l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

18.09.2023 - 16:20

country flag Nicole wrote:

Je vais tricoter le modèle 219_15 et pouvez vous me dire comment choisir la bonne taille Le tour de poitrine étant de 89 cm Merci pour votre aide

12.08.2023 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, mesurez un vêtement dont la personne pour qui vous tricotez ce pull aime la forme, et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma du bas de page, ce sera ainsi plus simple de trouver la bonne taille. - retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

14.08.2023 - 09:13

country flag Michal wrote:

Hi Drops team, how do I divide for the body and sleeves section (for size M) when I reach 24cm yoke in length several rows before the last #6 arrow increase? I do have 324 stitches o the neeedles, not 328 as required for the body and sleeves division. thank you 😀

24.06.2023 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michal, if you don't have the correct amount of stitches when reaching 24 cm of the yoke, then your vertical gauge is incorrect ( you have less rows per cm than you should, so you may be working more loosely than you should). Try the jumper and see if the length and width fits. If it does, simply increase 4 stitches evenly on the next row and then start dividing for the body and sleeves as explained in the pattern. Check from time to time that the pattern will not get interrupted. Happy knitting!

25.06.2023 - 13:44

Winter's Night Enchantment



Knitted sweater for men in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 219-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-915
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-116-124-142 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-45¾"-48¾"-55¾"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 53, anthracite
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 28) = 3.3. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.
ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the back of the neck slightly higher when working the yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the start of the round = mid-back. Start from the right side with anthracite and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past the marker-stitch, turn, tighten strand and purl 24-26-28-30-30-32 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 36-39-42-45-45-48 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 48-52-56-60-60-64 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 60-65-70-75-75-80 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 72-78-84-90-90-96 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit back to mid-back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working the pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is too tight in height, the garment will be short and the armholes too small – you can correct this by regularly working an extra row in the one-colored sections.
If your work is loose, the garment will be too long and the armholes too big – you can correct this by regularly working one less row in the one-colored sections.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve as follows:
S: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, marker, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).
M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, knit the marker stitch with anthracite and knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and anthracite. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2".
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit 1 round where you increase 28-28-32-32-36-40 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 120-124-132-136-144-152 stitches.
Insert 1 marker mid-front; the yoke is measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rounds of stockinette stitch with anthracite. Read KNITTING TIP and work A.1 in the round (= 30-31-33-34-36-38 repeats of 4 stitches).
Continue this pattern and when A.1 has been completed, work A.2 in the same way REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.2 increase stitches as described below – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:

SIZES S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-38-42 stitches evenly spaced = 156-162-174 stitches (there is now room for 26-27-29 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 64-58-66 stitches evenly spaced = 220-220-240 stitches (there is now room for 11-11-12 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-40-36 stitches evenly spaced = 252-260-276 stitches (there is now room for 63-65-69 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced = 282-294-312 stitches (there is now room for 47-49-52 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-30-36 stitches evenly spaced = 306-324-348 stitches (there is now room for 51-54-58 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6 (only in sizes M and L, because in S the piece is divided for the body and sleeves before this section starts): Increase 4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 306-328-352 stitches (there is now room for 41-44 repeats of 8 stitches in sizes M and L).

SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 44-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 180-192-204 stitches (there is now room for 30-32-34 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-48-54 stitches evenly spaced = 222-240-258 stitches (there is now room for 37-40-43 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 18-20-22 stitches evenly spaced = 240-260-280 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 60-64-68 stitches evenly spaced = 300-324-348 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-87 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 54-54-60 stitches evenly spaced = 354-378-408 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-68 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 30-30-30 stitches evenly spaced = 384-408-438 stitches (there is now room for 64-68-73 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 392-416-448 stitches (there is now room for 49-52-56 repeats of 8 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm = 8¾"-9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½" from the marker on the neck. NOTE: In some sizes there will be a number of rows left in A.2 when you divide for the body and sleeves – the rest of A.2 will be worked on the body and sleeves.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 45-49-52-57-63-69 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-114-126-138 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 45-49-52-57-63-69 stitches as before (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 192-208-224-244-272-296 stitches.
Finish A.2 – make sure the pattern matches the A.2 on the yoke, but be aware that the pattern does not fit under the sleeves in all sizes when working the last rows in A.2.
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 192-210-228-246-276-300 stitches. There is now room for 32-35-38-41-46-50 repeats of A.3 with 6 stitches.
Repeat A.3 in height until the piece measures approx. 27 cm = 10⅝" from the division in all sizes, finishing after a row with «spots».
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the sweater on and continue A.3 to desired length.

Work A.4 in the round – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 192-208-224-244-272-296 stitches (there is now room for 48-52-56-61-68-74 repeats of A.4 with 4 stitches).
When A.4 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 33 cm = 13" from the division. The body is finished with anthracite.
Knit 1 round where you increase 40-44-44-48-56-60 stitches evenly spaced = 232-252-268-292-328-356 stitches. This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½".
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The sweater measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 69-72-80-90-92-96 stitches. Insert 2 markers in the piece without working the stitches:

S:
Insert 1 marker mid-under the sleeve in the middle of the middle 6 stitches, count 34 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 34 stitches left to end of round.

M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Start mid-under the sleeve, in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-10 stitches, insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-39-44-45-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 35-39-44-45-47 stitches left to end of round.

ALL SIZES:
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; the marker under the sleeve is used when decreasing under the sleeve. The marker on top is when positioning the start of the pattern.
Continue with PATTERN at the same time as you DECREASE mid-under the sleeve as described below – read the rest of the sleeve section before continuing:

PATTERN:
Start the round mid-under the sleeve and finish A.2 in the same way as on the body; count from the marker on top of the sleeve to the start of the pattern – the marker-stitch matches the stitch with the star in A.2 (decrease under the sleeve at the same time as you work the pattern).
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round in the same way. Repeat A.3 in height until the sleeve measures approx. 35-34-32-31-29-28 cm = 13¾"-13⅜"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜"-11" from the division, finishing after a round of "spots". NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the sweater on and continue A.3 to desired length. Then work A.4 in the round.

DECREASING:
At the same time, when the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1½"-1¼"-1"-¾"-½"-½" a total of 9-10-13-17-18-19 times = 51-52-54-56-56-58 stitches.
When A.4 has been completed and the decreases are finished, the sleeve measures approx. 41-40-38-37-35-34 cm = 16⅛"-15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜" from the division. Continue with anthracite.
Knit 1 round where you increase 9-8-10-8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 60-60-64-64-64-68 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-39-38 cm = 17¾"-17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-15" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram explanations
symbol = anthracite
symbol = off white
symbol = increase-round
symbol = mid-stitch

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