Winter's Night Enchantment by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece knitted top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 217-10
DROPS design: Pattern me-207
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-116-130-142 cm = 36 1/4"-39 3/8"-42 1/2"-45 3/4"-51 1/4"-55 4/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 03, dark grey
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6 : Length 40 = 16” and 60 = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5 : Length 40 = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 28) = 3.3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (in back of neck):
To make the sweater higher in the back of neck when working round yoke work an elevation as explained below. Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side with dark grey and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 24-26-28-30-30-32. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 36-39-42-45-45-48, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48-52-56-60-60-64. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 60-65-70-75-75-80, turn, tighten yarn and purl 72-78-84-90-90-96, turn, tighten yarn and knit until mid back. Then work YOKE as explained in pattern.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.
If the knitting gauge is too tight vertically, the garment will be too short and the armhole will be too small - this can be adjusted by working 1 row more evenly in the sections with one color.
If the knitting gauge is too loose vertically, the garment will be too long and the armhole too big, this can be adjusted by working 1 row less in the sections with one color.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve as follows:
S: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker mid under sleeve, knit 2 together with dark grey, marker, knit 2 twisted together stitch with dark grey (= 2 stitches decreased).
M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work until 2 stitches remain before stitch with marker, knit 2 together with dark grey, knit stitch with marker with dark grey, knit 2 twisted together with dark grey (= 2 stitches decreased).

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round from the side, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 92-96-100-104-108-112 stitches on a short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with dark grey. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8".
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Knit 1 round while increasing 28-28-32-32-36-40 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 120-124-132-136-144-152 stitches.
Insert 1 marker mid front, measure yoke from this marker!
Now work an ELEVATION in the back of neck - read explanation above. If you do not want an elevation, skip directly to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rounds in stockinette stitch with dark grey. Read KNITTING TIP, and work A.1 in the round (= 30-31-33-34-36-38 repetitions of 4 stitches).
Continue pattern like this but when A.1 has been worked vertically, work A.2 the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on every round marked with arrow in A.1 and A.2 increase stitches evenly as explained below - remember INCREASE TIP:

SIZE S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-38-42 stitches evenly = 156-162-174 stitches (there is now room for 26-27-29 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 64-58-66 stitches evenly = 220-220-240 stitches (there is now room for 11-11-12 repetitions of 20 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-40-36 stitches evenly = 252-260-276 stitches (there is now room for 63-65-69 repetitions of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 30-34-36 stitches evenly = 282-294-312 stitches (there is now room for 47-49-52 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-30-36 stitches evenly = 306-324-348 stitches (there is now room for 51-54-58 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6 (only applies to M and L since S is divided for body and sleeves before this border begins): Increase 4-4 stitches evenly = 306-328-352 stitches (there is now room for 41-44 repetitions of 8 stitches in M and L).

SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 44-48-52 stitches evenly = 180-192-204 stitches (there is now room for 30-32-34 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-48-54 stitches evenly = 222-240-258 stitches (there is now room for 37-40-43 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 18-20-22 stitches evenly = 240-260-280 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14 repetitions of 20 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 60-64-68 stitches evenly = 300-324-348 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-87 repetitions of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 54-54-60 stitches evenly = 354-378-408 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-68 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 30-30-30 stitches evenly = 384-408-438 stitches (there is now room for 64-68-73 repetitions of 6 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-10 stitches evenly = 392-416-448 stitches (there is now room for 49-52-56 repetitions of 8 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Work until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4" from marker in neck. NOTE! In some size some rounds of A.2 will remain when piece is knitted for body and sleeves -
finish the rest of A.2 on body and sleeves.
Divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 45-49-52-57-63-69 stitches as before (= ½ back piece), slip the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-114-126-138 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 45-49-52-57-63-69 stitches as before (= ½ back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 192-208-224-244-272-296 stitches.
Finish A.2 - make sure that pattern fits nicely over A.2 on yoke but note that pattern does not fit under sleeves in all sizes when working the last rounds in A.2.
When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round - AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 6-8-10-8-10-10 stitches evenly = 198-216-234-252-282-306 stitches on needle. There is now room for 33-36-39-42-47-51 repetitions A.3 of 6 stitches.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures approx. 22 cm = 8 3/4" from division in all sizes, but finish after a round with dots.
Approx. 10 cm = 4” remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work A.3 in the until desired length.
Work A.4 in the round – AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 2-0-2-0-2-2 stitches evenly = 200-216-236-252-284-308 stitches on row (there is now room for 50-54-59-63-71-77 repetitions A.4 of 4 stitches).
When A.4 has been worked, piece measures approx. 28 cm = 11" from division. Work the rest of the body in dark grey.
Knit 1 round while increasing 48-52-56-60-68-72 stitches evenly = 248-268-292-312-352-380 stitches. Increase stitches to avoid the rib from contracting when working the piece together.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 – pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve = 69-72-80-90-92-96 stitches.
Now insert 2 markers in piece (this is done without working the stitches):

S:
Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve between the middle 6 stitches, count 34 stitch, insert 1 marker in next stitch = 34 stitches remain on round after stitch with marker.

M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Begin mid under sleeve between the 6-8-8-10-10 stitches, insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-39-44-45-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in next stitch = 35-39-44-45-47 stitches remain on round after stitch with marker.

ALL SIZES:
Move markers upwards when working. Use marker later when decreasing mid under sleeve. Use marker mid on top of sleeve when counting out where pattern should start.
Then work PATTERN at the same time DECREASE mid under sleeve as explained below - read the rest of sleeve before continuing:

PATTERN:
Begin round mid under sleeve and finish A.2 the same way as on body, but count outwards from the middle of sleeve where pattern should begin - stitch with marker mid on top of sleeve should fit stitch marked with star in A.2 (decrease under sleeve while working the pattern).
When A.2 has been worked, work A.3 in the round the same way. Repeat A.3 vertically until sleeve measures approx. 34-32-31-29-28-26 cm = 13 3/8"-12 1/2"-12 1/4"-11 3/8"-11"-10 1/4" from division, but finish after a round with dots. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Approx. 10 cm = 4” remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work A.3 in the until desired length. Then work A.4 in the round.

DECREASE:
At the same time when sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/8"-1”-3/4"-1/2”-1/2”-1/2” 12-13-16-20-20-20 times in total = 45-46-48-50-52-56 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked, and decreases are done, sleeve measures approx. 40-38-37-35-34-32 cm = 15 3/4"-15"-14 1/2"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-12 1/2" from division. Work the rest of the sleeve with dark grey.
Knit 1 round while increasing 7-6-8-10-8-8 stitches evenly = 52-52-56-60-60-64 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-39-38-36 cm = 17 1/4"-16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dark grey
symbols = off white
symbols = increase round
symbols = middle stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

to top

8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Julia wrote:

Hello! Could you tell, why is the collar (around the neck) so wide on the photo, in comparison to my work? My sweather is very close to neck, but I would love for it to be more loose like on the Drops photo. Same problem/question with the men's sweather... Thank you!

01.09.2023 - 21:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julia, the collar should measure 17 cm on the photo (which should be a size M). You also work a rib in the neck edge which should help it be more elastic and be more loose. So the neck will seem closer or farther from the neck edge depending on your own measurements and the gauge with which you worked the rib. Also, if you are working a size that's not the one on the photo, the wider neck may not be as wide in the chosen size. Happy knitting!

03.09.2023 - 19:50

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Pod rękawem jest dziura która powstała przez dodanie oczek na bok pod rękawem. Nie wiem jak to zamknąć:(

31.07.2023 - 09:12

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko, najlepiej będzie to ładnie zszyć. Pozdrawiamy!

31.07.2023 - 10:08

country flag Ranja wrote:

Et spørsmål til, er det nødvendig å midtstille diagrammet for å få mønsteret sentrert? Eller er diagrammet allerede sentrert i oppskriften?

20.07.2023 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ranja. Skal være midtstilt , om ikke annet er beskrevet i oppskriften. I denne oppskriften ser du i diagrammene hvilken maske som er midtmasken (stjerne nederst på de ulike diagrammene). mvh DROPS Design

26.07.2023 - 14:51

country flag Ranja wrote:

Hei. Mønsteret blir feil for meg ved midtmasken. Det virker som at mønsteret blir forskjøvet. Hva kan jeg gjøre for å gjøre det mindre synlig?

19.07.2023 - 11:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ranja Mønstret skal stemme, men det kan bli et "hakk"ved overgangen til omgangene. Ta en titt på hjelpevideoen: Hvordan unngå hakk i starten når det strikkes rundt. Du finner hjelpevideoene nederst på oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

26.07.2023 - 13:43

country flag Choplin wrote:

Hi ! I’m working on the size M and I divided the stitches for the body and sleeves. However I need to do the increase 5 on the A2 patterns, do I increase only the body or do I divide it for the sleeves too ?

22.12.2022 - 10:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Choplin, the increases on arrow -5 and -6 in size M are worked on yoke before dividing - this means all increases on yoke should be done before dividing piece for body and sleeves. Happy knitting!

22.12.2022 - 11:06

country flag Hannah Hope wrote:

Before the elevation, it says to insert a stitch marker mid front and to measure the yoke for this marker. What does this mean?

05.11.2022 - 09:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hannah, it means that any later measurements, unless indicated otherwise, will start from this marker. This is because the back is higher than the front because of the elevation, so measuring from this marker will let us work the front and the back more equally. Happy knitting!

07.11.2022 - 00:16

country flag Amelie Aupeix wrote:

Bonjour, Vous dites de prendre une taille d'aiguilles plus grande pour le jacquad, si celui ci est un peu serré. mais finalement tout pull est en jacquard. Doit on donc utiliser une taille au dessus pour tout le patron ? Et finalement comment se rendre compte que c'est trop serré ? Merci beaucoup, Amélie

08.10.2022 - 00:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Aupeix, vous pouvez tricoter votre échantillon en jacquard en choisissant un des diagrammes (A.4 par exemple), et par la suite, lorsque vous tricotez le pull, conservez bien la même tension et veillez à rester souple lors des changement de fils pour éviter qu'ils ne soient trop serrés, vérifiez régulièrement si besoin. Bon tricot!

10.10.2022 - 08:23

country flag Susanne wrote:

Guten Abend ich versteh das nicht so richtig mit den Mustermaschen (Läuse) welche sind das

26.09.2022 - 23:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, stricken Sie A.3 bis die Arbeit misst ca 22 cm aber die Länge so anpasse, daß die letzte Runde entweder eine Reihe 3 oder eine Reihe 7 im A.3 ist. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.09.2022 - 09:09

country flag Michelle Forbes wrote:

When I knit the lice stitch around the sleeves how do I manage the wool? Am I supposed to break the yarn after each white row, and if not how do I carry it up when there are three rows between repeats. Could you haelp please?

12.04.2022 - 22:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, the sleeve is worked in the round. The change of yarn is done in the center under the sleeve. To avoid cutting the yarn, you rise the white yarn in the center under the sleeve up to the next row where it will be used, you don't need to carry it while you work. Happy knitting!

15.04.2022 - 19:53

country flag Tuula wrote:

Hei! Olen vanhanaikainen neuloja, joten käänsin mallin alhaalta ylös neulottavaksi. Hyvä tuli ja sain tavan resorit. Muutama sentti punaista resoreissa piristi kivasti.

19.03.2022 - 01:16

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 217-10

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.