DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
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Button 629
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 629
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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$.

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Winter's Night Enchantment Jacket

Knitted jacket for men in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

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DROPS 219-13

#wintersnightenchantmentjacket

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-913
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-112-130-142 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-44"-51¼"-55¾"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 53, anthracite
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 7-7-8-8-9-9 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Button 629
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 629
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 104 stitches), minus edge + band stitches (e.g. 2 + 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 29) = 3.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch (do not increase over the edge stitches). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch (do not decrease over the edge stitches).

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the back of the neck slightly higher when working the yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row. Start from the right side with anthracite and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past the marker-stitch, turn, tighten strand and purl 25-27-29-31-31-33 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 37-40-43-46-46-49 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 49-53-57-61-61-65 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 61-66-71-76-76-81 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 73-79-85-91-91-97 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row (band worked in garter stitch). Work 1 row from the wrong side. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is too tight in height, the garment will be short and the armholes too small – you can correct this by regularly working an extra row in the one-colored sections.
If your work is loose, the garment will be too long and the armholes too big – you can correct this by regularly working one less row in the one-colored sections.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve as follows:
S: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, marker, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).
M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, knit the marker stitch with anthracite and knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE ON NECK:
When the neck measures 2 cm = ¾", work 1 buttonhole on the right-hand side (when the garment is worn).
Work from the right side when there are 5 stitches left as follows: 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. The bands are worked at the end.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches (including 6 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and anthracite. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm = 2" – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right-hand side – read description above.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Bind off the first 6 stitches (the band is sewn on here later), make 1 yarn over, knit 92-96-100-104-108-112 AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 29-29-33-33-37-41 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP, work rib as before over the next 5 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Turn and bind off the first 6 stitches, make 1 yarn over (on next row, knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole) and purl the rest of the stitches, apart from the yarn overs which are purled twisted (avoid holes) and edge stitches (the outermost stitch on each side of the piece) which are worked in garter stitch = 123-127-135-139-147-155 stitches.
Insert 1 marker after the edge stitch at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rows of stockinette stitch with anthracite and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Read KNITTING TIP and work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left (= 30-31-33-34-36-38 repeats of 4 stitches), work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern matches on both front pieces) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. When A.1 has been completed in height, work A.2 in the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME, on each row marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.2, increase as described below – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:

SIZES S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-38-42 stitches evenly spaced = 159-165-177 stitches (there is now room for 26-27-29 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 64-58-66 stitches evenly spaced = 223-223-243 stitches (there is now room for 11-11-12 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-40-36 stitches evenly spaced = 255-263-279 stitches (there is now room for 63-65-69 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced = 285-297-315 stitches (there is now room for 47-49-52 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-30-36 stitches evenly spaced = 309-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 51-54-58 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6 (only in sizes M and L, because in S the piece is divided for the body and sleeves before this section starts): Increase 4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 309-331-355 stitches (there is now room for 41-44 repeats of 8 stitches in sizes M and L).

SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 44-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 183-195-207 stitches (there is now room for 30-32-34 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-48-54 stitches evenly spaced = 225-243-261 stitches (there is now room for 37-40-43 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 18-20-22 stitches evenly spaced = 243-263-283 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 60-64-68 stitches evenly spaced = 303-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-87 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 54-54-60 stitches evenly spaced = 357-381-411 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-68 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 30-30-30 stitches evenly spaced = 387-411-441 stitches (there is now room for 64-68-73 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 395-419-451 stitches (there is now room for 49-52-56 repeats of 8 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm = 8¾"-9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½" from the marker on the neck. NOTE: In some sizes there will be a number of rows left in A.2 when you divide for the body and sleeves – the rest of A.2 will be worked on the body and sleeves.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 91-99-105-115-127-139 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 195-211-227-247-275-299 stitches.
Finish A.2 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – make sure the pattern matches the A.2 on the yoke, but be aware that the pattern does not fit under the sleeves in all sizes when working the last rows in A.2.
When A.2 has been completed, work from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, increasing at the same time 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, work the first stitch in A.3 (so the pattern matches on both front pieces) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 195-213-231-249-279-303 stitches. There is now room for 32-35-38-41-46-50 repeats of A.3 with 6 stitches.
Repeat A.3 in height until the piece measures approx. 27 cm = 10⅝" from the division in all sizes, finishing after a row with «spots».
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue A.3 to desired length.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work the first stitch in A.4 (seen from the right side), work A.4 until there is 1 stitch left on the row (the diagram is read from left to right when working from the wrong side) and decrease at the same time 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 195-211-227-247-275-299 stitches. There is now room for 48-52-56-61-68-74 repeats of A.4 with 4 stitches.
When A.4 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 33 cm =13" from the division. The body is finished with anthracite.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 41-45-45-49-57-61 stitches evenly spaced = 236-256-272-296-332-360 stitches; this is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work the first row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 69-72-80-90-92-96 stitches. Insert 2 markers in the piece without working the stitches:

S:
Insert 1 marker mid-under the sleeve in the middle of the middle 6 stitches, count 34 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 34 stitches left to end of round.

M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Start mid-under the sleeve, between in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-10 stitches, insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-39-44-45-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 35-39-44-45-47 stitches left to end of round.

ALL SIZES:
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; the marker under the sleeve is used when decreasing under the sleeve. The marker on top is when positioning the start of the pattern.
Continue with PATTERN at the same time as you DECREASE mid-under the sleeve as described below – read the rest of the sleeve section before continuing:

PATTERN:
Start the round mid-under the sleeve and finish A.2 in the same way as on the body; count from the marker on top of the sleeve to the start of the pattern – the marker-stitch matches the stitch with the star in A.2 (decrease under the sleeve at the same time as you work the pattern).
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round in the same way. Repeat A.3 in height until the sleeve measures approx. 35-34-32-31-29-28 cm = 13¾"-13⅜"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜"-11" from the division, finishing after a round of "spots". NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue A.3 to desired length. Then work A.4 in the round.

DECREASING:
At the same time, when the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1½"-1¼"-1"-¾"-½"-½" a total of 9-10-13-17-18-19 times = 51-52-54-56-56-58 stitches.
When A.4 has been completed and the decreases are finished, the sleeve measures approx. 41-40-38-37-35-34 cm = 16⅛"-15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜" from the division. Continue with anthracite.
Knit 1 round where you increase 9-8-10-8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 60-60-64-64-64-68 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-39-38 cm = 17¾"-17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-15" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND (when the garment is worn):
Knit up from the right side, inside the 1 edge stitch, approx. 148-156-160-164-168-172 stitches along the front piece, using circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and anthracite (number of stitches divisible by 4).
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛" – adjust so the width of the band is the same as the width of the bind-off stitches on the neck. Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work in the same way as the left band, but after 1 = ⅜" to 1½ cm = ½" work 7-7-7-8-8-8 buttonholes evenly spaced. The bottom buttonhole is worked 8 cm = 3⅛" from the bottom edge, the top buttonhole 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛" from the buttonhole on the neck. NOTE: It is neatest to work the buttonholes in purled sections (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over, then purling 2 together. On the next row knit the yarn overs to leave a hole.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the top edge of both bands neatly to the neck inside the 1 edge stitch, with the seam to the wrong side.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.11.2021
DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 7-7-8-8-9-9 items.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = anthracite
symbols = off white
symbols = increase row
symbols = middle stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Winters Night Enchantment Jacket

Agathe Pouliquen, France

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 219-13

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Gunilla Stavenow wrote:

Finns någon storleksguide där man ser bröstbild, hel längd etc. för olika storlekar?

02.10.2024 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunilla. Du hittar en måttskiss med plaggets mått i cm i samtliga storlekar längst ner på mönstret. Mvh DROPS Design

03.10.2024 - 09:19

country flag Adrie Verdaasdonk wrote:

Hoe kan je van halsdeelmarkeerder tot 30cm komen als je op die hoogte nog niet de juiste aantal steken voor je indeling armen en lijf komt? Je bent over de 30cm als je ter hoogte van de pijl 7 van A.2 patroon als je de juiste aantal steken hebt. Ik zie op de foto dat de indeling veel eerder zit dan wat uitgelegd is.

15.08.2023 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Adrie,

Het model op de afbeelding heeft maat S aan. Als je een andere maat breit, kan de indeling ietsje anders zijn. Heb je de stekenverhouding gecontroleerd en kan het zijn dat je minder steken in de hoogte hebt op 10 cm, dan aangegeven bij de stekenverhouding in het patroon?

16.08.2023 - 19:23

country flag Evie wrote:

Hoe brei je patroon A3 heen en terug zonder elke keer een witte draad te moeten afknippen. De naturel steek zit nu steeds in de averechtse naald. Het begin van de natureldraad staat dan klaar voor de rechte naald, maar in het patroon staat de naturelsteek voor de averechtse naald. Dan moet je dus steeds de draad afknippen om verder te kunnen, of lees ik het verkeerd?

11.01.2023 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Evie,

De draad die je niet gebruikt kun je inderdaad meenemen, ook op een averechte naald. Dit kun je doen door afwisselen de rechter naald boven en onder de niet gebruikte draad te steken. In deze video kun je ook een beetje zien hoe dat werkt (hoewel er in deze video ook gebreid wordt met de andere draad.

12.01.2023 - 20:08

country flag Andreas wrote:

Hello. I am making the XL size, but I made it longer. From the end of neck until the end down measures 80cm. Is there a specific formula to count the stitches I have to pick up for the side bands? For example , 1 stitch for every horizontal row? or something else?

14.11.2022 - 09:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andreas, this video shows how to pick up sts along the sides - but since you will work here ribbing K2, P2, you might require more sts - it might be wise to make first a small swatch with ribbing edge and then calculate how many stitches you require to avoid rib to tighten piece. Happy knitting!

14.11.2022 - 10:29

country flag Yvonne Havelaar wrote:

Hallo, ik ben de Scandinavische vest voor mijn aan het breien. Ik heb de hals en de pas nu gebreid en kom nu op het punt van de mouwgaten, maar ik kom veelste veel steken te kort. Dus mijn vraag is nu zijn de patronen alleen heen gaan getekend of ook teruggaan? Nu brei ik ze alleen heengaand en dan terug zoals ze zich voordoen.

01.06.2022 - 12:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvonne,

In de telpatronen zijn alle steken aangegeven, dus zowel van de heengaande als de teruggaande naald.

04.06.2022 - 21:56

country flag Connie Enghoff wrote:

Hej, Jeg har strikket hele cardigan 219-13 og skal til forkanter. Min mand prøver den da det er en herretrøje. Men knaphuller er i den forkerte side. Dette kan jeg ikke ændre da der er lavet et knaphul i halskanten. Det står meget tydeligt at knaphuller skal være i højre side. ??? Er det ikke en fejl? Meget ærgerligt da det er en model til min forretning!

26.11.2021 - 09:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Connie, det kan jeg godt se. Knaphullet er også på højre side på billedet. Det er samme model som 217-9 til dame, så det må være derfor.

29.11.2021 - 14:53

country flag Anita wrote:

Auf den Bildern ist der Kragen länger als 3 cm, wie in der Beschreibung angeben. Scheint auch eine Reihe dazwischen gestrickt zu sein. Jedenfalls passt die Beschreibung nicht zum Bild.können Sue mir da helfen. Danke.

17.10.2021 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, oh ja stimmt, es git ein Typo in die deutsche Anleitung, Rippenmuser beim kragen soll 5 cm sein - Korrektur erfolgt. Danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.10.2021 - 09:11

country flag Martin wrote:

Bei "Material" ist von 8 Knöpfen für XL-XXL-XXXL die Rede. Nun soll in der Halsblende ein Knopfloch gemacht werden, in der rechten Blende sollen noch 8 Knopflöcher gemacht werden, insgesamt also 9 Knopflöcher. Auf den Fotos (vmtl Größe M) sehe ich nur 7 Knöpfe. Ich vermute, dass die Anleitung im Bereich "rechte Blende" fehlerhaft ist (ein Knopfloch zu viel) - können Sie dies bestätigen, bzw. mir die korrekte Anzahl an Knöpfen für Größe XXL nennen? Vielen Dank!

09.10.2021 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Martin, danke für den Hinweis, unser Designteam wird die Knopflöcher mal prüfen.

11.10.2021 - 07:24

country flag Karin Verland wrote:

Jeg har bestilt garnet hos jer i dag, og vil gerne have opskriften med i print, da jeg ikke har en printer. Drops 219-13

06.07.2021 - 23:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, du har fået en bekræftelse-mail fra butikken som tager sig af din ordre. Skriv direkte til butikken, så kan du sikkert få opskriften med :)

07.07.2021 - 08:00

country flag Christina Kuronen wrote:

Im Diagramm A2 Größe XL ist ein Stern = Mittelmasche zu sehen. Ich weiß nicht, was dieser bedeutet.Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe

28.02.2021 - 13:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kuronen, dieser Stern wird für die Ärmel benutzt, siehe ÄRMEL, MUSTER - diese Lektion erklärt, wie man ein Muster/Diagram in der Mitte (Stern) platziert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.03.2021 - 09:32

Winter's Night Enchantment Jacket



Knitted jacket for men in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 219-13
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-913
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-112-130-142 cm = 36¼"-39⅜"-42½"-44"-51¼"-55¾"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 53, anthracite
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 7-7-8-8-9-9 items.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 104 stitches), minus edge + band stitches (e.g. 2 + 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 29) = 3.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch (do not increase over the edge stitches). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch (do not decrease over the edge stitches).

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the back of the neck slightly higher when working the yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row. Start from the right side with anthracite and knit 12-13-14-15-15-16 stitches past the marker-stitch, turn, tighten strand and purl 25-27-29-31-31-33 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 37-40-43-46-46-49 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 49-53-57-61-61-65 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 61-66-71-76-76-81 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 73-79-85-91-91-97 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row (band worked in garter stitch). Work 1 row from the wrong side. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is too tight in height, the garment will be short and the armholes too small – you can correct this by regularly working an extra row in the one-colored sections.
If your work is loose, the garment will be too long and the armholes too big – you can correct this by regularly working one less row in the one-colored sections.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve as follows:
S: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, marker, knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).
M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-stitch under the sleeve, knit 2 together with anthracite, knit the marker stitch with anthracite and knit 2 twisted together with anthracite (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE ON NECK:
When the neck measures 2 cm = ¾", work 1 buttonhole on the right-hand side (when the garment is worn).
Work from the right side when there are 5 stitches left as follows: 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. The bands are worked at the end.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches (including 6 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and anthracite. Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm = 2" – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right-hand side – read description above.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Bind off the first 6 stitches (the band is sewn on here later), make 1 yarn over, knit 92-96-100-104-108-112 AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 29-29-33-33-37-41 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP, work rib as before over the next 5 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

Turn and bind off the first 6 stitches, make 1 yarn over (on next row, knit yarn over twisted to avoid hole) and purl the rest of the stitches, apart from the yarn overs which are purled twisted (avoid holes) and edge stitches (the outermost stitch on each side of the piece) which are worked in garter stitch = 123-127-135-139-147-155 stitches.
Insert 1 marker after the edge stitch at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work 0-0-2-2-4-6 rows of stockinette stitch with anthracite and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Read KNITTING TIP and work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left (= 30-31-33-34-36-38 repeats of 4 stitches), work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern matches on both front pieces) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. When A.1 has been completed in height, work A.2 in the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME, on each row marked with an arrow in A.1 and A.2, increase as described below – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:

SIZES S, M and L:
Arrow-1: Increase 36-38-42 stitches evenly spaced = 159-165-177 stitches (there is now room for 26-27-29 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 64-58-66 stitches evenly spaced = 223-223-243 stitches (there is now room for 11-11-12 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 32-40-36 stitches evenly spaced = 255-263-279 stitches (there is now room for 63-65-69 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced = 285-297-315 stitches (there is now room for 47-49-52 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 24-30-36 stitches evenly spaced = 309-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 51-54-58 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6 (only in sizes M and L, because in S the piece is divided for the body and sleeves before this section starts): Increase 4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 309-331-355 stitches (there is now room for 41-44 repeats of 8 stitches in sizes M and L).

SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
Arrow-1: Increase 44-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 183-195-207 stitches (there is now room for 30-32-34 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 42-48-54 stitches evenly spaced = 225-243-261 stitches (there is now room for 37-40-43 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 18-20-22 stitches evenly spaced = 243-263-283 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14 repeats of 20 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 60-64-68 stitches evenly spaced = 303-327-351 stitches (there is now room for 75-81-87 repeats of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 54-54-60 stitches evenly spaced = 357-381-411 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-68 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-6: Increase 30-30-30 stitches evenly spaced = 387-411-441 stitches (there is now room for 64-68-73 repeats of 6 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 395-419-451 stitches (there is now room for 49-52-56 repeats of 8 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm = 8¾"-9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½" from the marker on the neck. NOTE: In some sizes there will be a number of rows left in A.2 when you divide for the body and sleeves – the rest of A.2 will be worked on the body and sleeves.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 91-99-105-115-127-139 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 46-50-53-58-64-70 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 195-211-227-247-275-299 stitches.
Finish A.2 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – make sure the pattern matches the A.2 on the yoke, but be aware that the pattern does not fit under the sleeves in all sizes when working the last rows in A.2.
When A.2 has been completed, work from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, increasing at the same time 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, work the first stitch in A.3 (so the pattern matches on both front pieces) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 195-213-231-249-279-303 stitches. There is now room for 32-35-38-41-46-50 repeats of A.3 with 6 stitches.
Repeat A.3 in height until the piece measures approx. 27 cm = 10⅝" from the division in all sizes, finishing after a row with «spots».
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue A.3 to desired length.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work the first stitch in A.4 (seen from the right side), work A.4 until there is 1 stitch left on the row (the diagram is read from left to right when working from the wrong side) and decrease at the same time 0-2-4-2-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 195-211-227-247-275-299 stitches. There is now room for 48-52-56-61-68-74 repeats of A.4 with 4 stitches.
When A.4 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 33 cm =13" from the division. The body is finished with anthracite.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 41-45-45-49-57-61 stitches evenly spaced = 236-256-272-296-332-360 stitches; this is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work the first row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 63-66-72-82-82-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 69-72-80-90-92-96 stitches. Insert 2 markers in the piece without working the stitches:

S:
Insert 1 marker mid-under the sleeve in the middle of the middle 6 stitches, count 34 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 34 stitches left to end of round.

M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Start mid-under the sleeve, between in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-10 stitches, insert 1 marker in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-39-44-45-47 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch = 35-39-44-45-47 stitches left to end of round.

ALL SIZES:
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; the marker under the sleeve is used when decreasing under the sleeve. The marker on top is when positioning the start of the pattern.
Continue with PATTERN at the same time as you DECREASE mid-under the sleeve as described below – read the rest of the sleeve section before continuing:

PATTERN:
Start the round mid-under the sleeve and finish A.2 in the same way as on the body; count from the marker on top of the sleeve to the start of the pattern – the marker-stitch matches the stitch with the star in A.2 (decrease under the sleeve at the same time as you work the pattern).
When A.2 has been completed, work A.3 in the round in the same way. Repeat A.3 in height until the sleeve measures approx. 35-34-32-31-29-28 cm = 13¾"-13⅜"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜"-11" from the division, finishing after a round of "spots". NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue A.3 to desired length. Then work A.4 in the round.

DECREASING:
At the same time, when the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1½"-1¼"-1"-¾"-½"-½" a total of 9-10-13-17-18-19 times = 51-52-54-56-56-58 stitches.
When A.4 has been completed and the decreases are finished, the sleeve measures approx. 41-40-38-37-35-34 cm = 16⅛"-15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜" from the division. Continue with anthracite.
Knit 1 round where you increase 9-8-10-8-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 60-60-64-64-64-68 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 45-44-42-41-39-38 cm = 17¾"-17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-15" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND (when the garment is worn):
Knit up from the right side, inside the 1 edge stitch, approx. 148-156-160-164-168-172 stitches along the front piece, using circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and anthracite (number of stitches divisible by 4).
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛" – adjust so the width of the band is the same as the width of the bind-off stitches on the neck. Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Work in the same way as the left band, but after 1 = ⅜" to 1½ cm = ½" work 7-7-7-8-8-8 buttonholes evenly spaced. The bottom buttonhole is worked 8 cm = 3⅛" from the bottom edge, the top buttonhole 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛" from the buttonhole on the neck. NOTE: It is neatest to work the buttonholes in purled sections (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over, then purling 2 together. On the next row knit the yarn overs to leave a hole.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the top edge of both bands neatly to the neck inside the 1 edge stitch, with the seam to the wrong side.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram explanations
symbol = anthracite
symbol = off white
symbol = increase row
symbol = middle stitch

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