DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
9.40 CAD /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 9.40 CAD /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit | |
= purl | |
= knit 2 twisted together |
|
= knit 2 together |
|
= purl 2 together |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Harvest Glow |
||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||
Knitted hat and neck warmer in 4 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted with stockinette stitch and rib.
DROPS 225-5 |
||||||||||||||||
---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. PATTERN (applies to hat): See diagram A.1. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- NECK WARMER – SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE: Work front piece back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. Bind off for neck, and finish each shoulder separately over shoulders. Then cast on new stitches towards the neck before slipping the shoulder stitches together and continue the back piece top and down. Finish by picking up stitches around the neck and work high collar in rib. NECK WARMER: Cast on 42-50 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 1 strand of each color (= 4 strands). Work as follows - from right side: 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures approx. 6 cm = 2⅜". Switch to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Work next row as follows from right side: Work as before over the first 8-8 stitches, work in stockinette stitch over the next 26-34 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 6-8 stitches evenly (= 20-26 stitches in stockinette stitch), work as before over the last 8-8 stitches = 36-42 stitches. Continue like this (rib and garter stitch over 8 stitches in each side, in stockinette stitch over the middle 20-26 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 7 cm = 2¾", increase 1 stitch in each side, as follows from right side: Work as before over the first 9 stitches, make 1 yarn over, work as before until 9 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, work the rest of row. On next row work as before but yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Increase like this approx. every 3½ cm = 1¼" 4 times in total = 44-50 stitches. When piece measures 19-20 cm = 7½"-8", put stitches aside for neck on next row from right side as follows: Work the first 15-17 stitches as before, slip the next 14-16 stitches on a thread for neck (work them first), work the last 15-17 stitches. Slip the first 15-17 stitches on a thread for left shoulder. RIGHT SHOULDER: Begin from wrong side, and work as before. Then bind off stitches for neck on every row from right side as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 11-13 stitches. Work as before until piece measures 25-26 cm = 9¾"-10¼" from cast-on edge. Insert a marker in piece to measure from (= mid on top of shoulder). Work until piece measures 2 cm = ¾" from marker on shoulder. At the end of next row from wrong side, cast on 1 new stitch towards the neck = 12-14 stitches. Cut the yarn and slip stitches on a thread. Then work left shoulder as explained below. LEFT SHOULDER: Slip the 15-17 stitches from thread back on circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Begin from right side, and work as before. Then bind off stitches for neck on every row from wrong side as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 11-13 stitches. Work as before until piece measures 25-26 cm = 9¾"-10¼" from cast-on edge. Insert a marker in piece to measure from (= mid on top of shoulder). Work until piece measures 2 cm = ¾" from marker on shoulder. On next row from right side, cast on 1 new stitch towards the neck = 12-14 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side. At the end of next row, cast on 20-22 new stitches, then slip stitches from right shoulder piece back on needle= 44-50 stitches. BACK PIECE: Now work over all stitches as on front piece. When piece measures 7½-8½ cm = 2⅞"-3¼" from marker on shoulder (adjust so that this is the same length from shoulder as last increase on front piece), decrease stitches inside the outermost 9 stitches in each side as follows, from right side: Work pattern as before over the outermost 9 stitches, knit 2 together, work until 11 stitches remain on needle, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, work as before over the last 9 stitches. Repeat decrease inside the 9 outermost stitches approx. every 3½ cm = 1¼" until 4 decreases have been done in total = 36-42 stitches. Work as before piece measures 19-20 cm = 7½"-8" from marker on shoulder. Switch to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Work next row as follows, from right side: Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, stockinette stitch over the next 20-26 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME increase 6-8 stitches evenly, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, 2 edge stitch in garter stitch = 42-50 stitches. Work as follows from wrong side: Knit 2 edge stitches, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain on the needle. Knit 2 and knit 2 edge stitches. Work rib like this until piece measures 25-26 cm = 9¾"-10¼" from shoulder - adjust so that front piece and back piece are the same length. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. NECK EDGE: Use a short circular needle 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each color (= 4 strands), begin at marker on the shoulder and pick up approx. 64-68 stitches around the neck (number of stitches must be divisible by 4). Continue with rib (= knit 2/purl 2). Work until rib measures approx. 20 cm = 8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. ASSEMBLY: The neck edge can be folded and sewn into a double neck edge or use it as a high collar. If you want a double neck edge do the following: Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Work hat in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles with rib. HAT: Cast on 68 stitches on a short circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 6 strands DROPS Kid-Silk (= 1 strand of each color + an extra strand curry and 1 extra strand with color rust). Then remove the 2 extra strands, now continue with 1 strand of each color (= 4 strands). Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2). Continue with rib until piece measures 12 cm = 4¾" from cast-on edge. Now work as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3 *, repeat *-* 4 times in total on round. Continue until piece measures 25 cm = 9¾". Now work as follows – from beginning of round: A.1 over all stitches (= 4 repetitions of 17 stitches). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 24 stitches on needles. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 12 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 35 cm = 13¾" from top and down. Fold rib at the bottom so that fold is approx. 10 cm = 4". Hat measures approx. 25 cm = 9¾". |
||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11518 patterns - 11509 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (9)
Monika wrote:
Thank you for the answer. You should also correct the amount of the yarn for the cap which is 75g for 1 colour cap and should be 100g if I understand well. :)
09.01.2024 - 18:11Monika wrote:
I'm afraid I did not receive the answer to my question. I do not understand why I need more yarn when I want to use 4 threads of the same colour than when I use 4 different colours. And the difference is 2 balls of yarn - 150g vs. 100g.
09.01.2024 - 16:58DROPS Design answered:
Hi Monika, there is a mistake in the pattern. It should be 100 g when you work a neck warmer in only one colour. Thank you for noticing it. Happy knitting!
09.01.2024 - 17:15Monika wrote:
Could you please explain to me why I need more wool when I want to use one colour . Is it a mistake? 100g of 4 colours for a neck warmer and 150g if it is made of one colour.
08.01.2024 - 20:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Monika, if you get the correct tension, that's the yarn amount you will need, note that you might require less than the 2 balls in each color for the hat, but 1 ball each color might not be enough due to the ribbing pattern. Happy knitting!
09.01.2024 - 07:44Laila wrote:
Hallo, Nun ab dem Rundenbeginn A.1 über alle Maschen stricken (= 4 Rapporte à 17 Maschen). Das versteh ich nicht. Ich Stricke mit dem Nadelspiel. 17maschen auf der Nadel ist der rapport,das heißt jeder Nadel die 17 Maschen laut A1 Stricken. Aber der Diagramm geht auch in der Höhe.Wie oft muss ich A1 Stricken? Mfg Laila----
31.12.2022 - 21:00DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Laila, wenn die Arbeit 25 cm mist stricken Sie A.1: wenn Sie 17 Maschen auf jeder Nadel haben, dann stricken Sie A.1 auf jede Nadel (= 4 x 17 = 68 Maschen); wenn A.1 fertig ist sind es nur noch 6 Maschen in jedem A.1/auf jede Nadel x 4 Rapporter = 24 maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
02.01.2023 - 13:59Gudrun wrote:
I agree with Olena, it does not make sensse after the 12 cm and before the diagram, can you please explain, why the 3 purled ones, and then then what?
27.10.2022 - 23:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Gudrun, you first work 12 cm rib K2, P2, then continue with rib like this: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3 *, repeat these 17 stitches, ie from *-* a total of 4 times = (17x4=68 sts). Happy knitting!
28.10.2022 - 11:32Lea wrote:
Cosa si intende quando si dice: "mettere in sospeso le 14 maglie successive per il collo (lavorarle prima)?" O le lascio in sospeso o le lavoro.. e come faccio a lavorare le 15 maglie prima e le ultime, lasciando in sospeso delle maglie in mezzo, resta il filo teso in mezzo.. forse vanno intrecciate per chiuderle le maglie del collo...
16.10.2022 - 15:25DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lea, deve lavorare le prime 15 maglie della spalla sinistra, poi lavorare le 14 maglie del collo e metterle in sospeso e infine proseguire con le 15 maglie della spalla destra. A questo punto deve mettere in sospeso anche le 15 maglie della spalla sinistra e proseguire con la spalla destra. Buon lavoro!
17.10.2022 - 23:46Barbara wrote:
Cosa vuol dire, quando ci sono le diminuzioni A1 su tutte le maglie grazie
25.01.2022 - 15:47DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Barbara, a quale parte del modello sta facendo riferimento? Buon lavoro!
26.01.2022 - 22:06Tasiana wrote:
Diagram does not correspond to the hat
09.10.2021 - 11:42DROPS Design answered:
Dear Tasiana, diagram does work over the hat, you were working ( Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3) = 17 sts repeat from (to), and you will *Knit 1, knit the next K + the next purl stitch twisted together, then purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, knit the next purl + the next knit stitch together, knit 1, purl 3* = 17 sts decreased to 15 sts. Happy knitting!
11.10.2021 - 08:28Olena wrote:
I have a question to the following description: "Continue with rib until piece measures 12 cm from cast-on edge. Now work as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3 *, repeat *-* 4 times in total on round. Continue until piece measures 25 cm. Now work as follows – from beginning of round: A.1 over all stitches (= 4 repetitions of 17 stitches)." If I work as it said: *knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, ...,, purl 3*, I can't follow the diagram A.1 then. ???
29.09.2021 - 14:47DROPS Design answered:
Dear Olena, sorry, you will find how to read knitting diagrams here, can this help or do I misunderstand your question?
30.09.2021 - 09:26