DROPS Baby / 33 / 26

Stroll in the Park by DROPS Design

Jacket for baby with round yoke and textured pattern, knitted top down. Shorts for baby with ties and rib. Piece is knitted in DROPS Baby Merino or Drops Alpaca. Size: Premature to 2 years

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-105-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
JACKET: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
SHORTS: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(150) 150-200-200-250 (250) g color 11, ice blue

OR:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(150) 150-200-200-250 (250) g color 9026, blush

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JACKET:

SIZE: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 36-42-48-52-56-60 cm = 14 1/4”-16 1/2”-19”-20 1/2”-22”-23 5/8”
Full length: 20-24-28-30-33-36 cm = 8”-9 1/2”-11”-11 3/4”-13”-14 1/4”

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-100-150-150 (150) g color 11, ice blue

OR:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(150) 150-200-200-250 (250) g color 9026, blush

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: Length 60 cm = 24” for edges in garter stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 515: 5 pieces for all sizes

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SHORTS:

SIZE: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)

Finished measurements:
Waist measurements: 36-40-44-50-54-56 cm = 14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19 3/4”-21 1/4”-22”
Full length: 21-23-24-27-28-29 cm = 8 1/4”-9”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 100-100-100-100 (100) g color 11, ice blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly on jacket):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 68 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 11) = 5.2.
In this example increase after alternately approx. every 5th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
Do not increase over bands.

RAGLAN (applies to size 12/18 months - 2 years):
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row). All increases are done from the right side!
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve on jacket and on inside of legs on shorts):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after neck edge. Then decrease the next 4 buttonholes approx. 5 cm = 2” apart.

INCREASE TIP (applies mid front and mid back on shorts):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.


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BEGIN PIECE FOR JACKET HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on (68) 72-78-82-84 (86) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Baby Merino or Alpaca. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing (11) 16-16-18-19 (20) stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP and decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = (79) 88-94-100-103 (106) stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (knit bands). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1A (= 2 stitches), work A.1B until 9 stitches remain on row (= (21) 24-26-28-29 (30) repetitions of 3 stitches), work A.1C (= 4 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this and increase as shown in diagrams. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are (148) 166-178-190-196 (202) stitches on row and piece measures approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4” from cast-on edge. Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and increase AT THE SAME TIME (10) 16-20-24-14 (12) stitches evenly on first row = (158) 182-198-214-210 (214 stitches. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then work as explained in the different sizes.

PREMATURE, 0/1 MONTHS, 1/3 MONTHS + 6/9 MONTHS:
Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front until piece measures (9) 9-10-11 cm = (3 1/2”) 3 1/2”-4”-4 3/8” from cast-on edge mid front.
Work next row as follows in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side: Work(25) 28-31-33 stitches (= front piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work (40) 46-52-56 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the (25) 28-31-33 stitches (= front piece). Then work body as explained below. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

12/18 MONTHS, 2 YEARS:
Insert 4 marker threads in piece (without working stitches) as follows: Insert first marker thread after the first 33 (34) stitches (= front piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 44 (44) stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 56 (58) stitches (= back piece), and insert 4th marker thread after the next 44-44 stitches (= sleeve). 33 (34) stitches remain on row after last marker thread (= front piece).
Continue in stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When 2 rows have been worked, increase for RAGLAN on next row from right side - see explanation above. Increase like this every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 2 (3) times in total. After last increase for raglan there are 226 (238) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures 12 (13) cm = 4 3/4” (5 1/8”) from cast-on edge.
Work next row as follows in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side: Work 35 (37) stitches (= front piece), slip the next 48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 60 (64) stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 35 (37) stitches (= front piece). Then work body as explained below. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= (98) 110-126-134-146 (154) stitches. Continue back and forth in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When piece measures (7) 11-14-15-17 (19) cm = (2 3/4”) 4 3/8”-5 1/2”-6”-6 3/4” (7 1/2”) from division switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Switch back to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Loosely bind off by knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-33 (36) cm = (8”) 9 1/2”-11”-11 3/4”-13” (14 1/4”) from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches cast on under sleeve = (38) 44-48-52-56 (58) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (3) 2-2-1½-1½ (1½) cm = (1 1/8”) 3/4”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” (1/2”) (2) 4-6-7-9 (9) times in total = (34) 36-36-38-38 (40) stitches. Work until piece measures (7) 11-14-15-18 (19) cm = (2 3/4”) 4 3/8”-5 1/2”-6”-7” (7 1/2”) from division. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Switch back to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and loosely bind off by knitting. Sleeve measures approx. (8) 12-15-16-19 (20) cm = (3 1/8”) 4 3/4”-6”-6 1/4”-7 1/2” (8”) from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

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BEGIN PIECE FOR SHORTS HERE:

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SHORTS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needles/double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on (96) 106-116-132-144 (152) stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Baby Merino or Alpaca.
Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round = knit 1/ purl 1. When rib measures 2½ cm = 1”, work a round with eyelet holes for tie as follows: * Knit 1, purl 1, make 1 yarn over, purl 2 together *, work from *-* the entire round (= (24) 26-29-33-36 (38) holes on round). Then continue rib = knit 1/purl 1 until piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” from cast-on edge. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5, knit 1 round while decreasing (10) 10-10-12-14 (18) stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 = (86) 96-106-120-130 (134) stitches. Now work an elevation at the back of shorts as explained below.

ELEVATION AT THE BACK:
To get a better fit work the shorts higher at the back than at the front. This is done by working short rows back and forth as follows: Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Work from right side and knit 8 past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 16 stitches back. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 24, turn, tighten yarn and purl 32. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 40, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

SHORTS:
Continue in the round in stockinette stitch over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When shorts measures (14) 16-17-20-21 (22) cm = (5 1/2”) 6 1/4”-6 3/4”-8”-8 1/4” (8 3/4”) from cast-on edge, insert 1 marker thread mid front and 1 marker thread mid back. On next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every other round 6 times in total = (110) 120-130-144-154 (158) stitches. Work until piece measures (18) 20-21-24-25 (26) cm = (7”) 8”-8 1/4”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” (10 1/4”) from cast-on edge mid front. Now divide for legs at both marker threads. Slip half the stitches on a stitch holder or extra needle and work leg over the remaining stitches as explained below. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

LEG:
= (55) 60-65-72-77 (79) stitches. Distribute the stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work in stockinette stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME after 1 round, decrease 2 stitches on inside of leg - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other round (2) 2-2-2-3 (3) times in total = (51) 56-61-68-71 (73) stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Knit 1 round while increasing (5) 6-7-8-9 (9) stitches evenly = (56) 62-68-76-80 (82) stitches. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 2 cm = 3/4”. Loosely bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other leg the same way.

TWINED STRING FOR TIE:
Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres = 120” each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down in row with eyelet holes on shorts, make a bow mid front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= Insert needle in between 4th and 5th stitch on left needle, pull yarn through (= 1 new stitch), knit 1, purl 2, knit 1
= purl the new stitch from previous row and next stitch (= 2 stitches) together (= 1 stitch decreased)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over twisted



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Valeria 21.10.2019 - 13:51:

Vorrei sapere quali sono le lame piu adatte ai bambini piccoli, di solito uso baby merino o baby alpaca silk. Ho visto usate anche alpaca, quali altre labe consigliate? Grazie!!!

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 14:06:

Buongiorno Valeria. Oltre ai filati già indicati da lei, può usare anche Merino extra fine, cotton merino e safran (cotone). Buon lavoro!

Lena Engdal 09.10.2019 - 23:20:

Omgang 8; hvordan i alle dager strikkes den når den skal strikkes på vrang pinne? Da kan det umulig stemme at den nye masken fra forrige pinne og neste maske skal strikkes sammen. Den nye masken er jo da ikke første maske slik som på videoen, der det strikkes rundt og ikke fram og tilbake. Jeg skjønner ingenting!

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 10:51:

Hei Lena. Litt usikker på hvilken video du har sett på, men noen video viser kun teknikken på hvordan det strikkes og ikke ekstakt som f.eks etter et diagram. Men på 8. pinne på jakken strikkes det slik fra vrangen: 5 stolpemasker i riller, A.1C (1 rett, 1 vrang, 2 rett, 2 masker vrang sammen), A.1B og A.1 A. Vi kommer til å lage en video på 7. og 8. pinne til disse diagrammene i en av de nærmeste dagene. Så har du fremdeles ikke fått det til, sjekk videosiden til denne oppskriften igjen snart. God Fornøyelse!

Birgit Tys 07.10.2019 - 19:32:

Wat haak ik in de terugnaald na de nieuwe steek in de pas . Volgens uitleg staan op plan A1 enkel de naalden van de goede kant . Ik brei heen en weer op gewone naald .

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 20:23:

Dag Birgit,

De telpatronen laten alle naalden in het patroon aan de goede kant zien, en alle naalden zijn in het telpatroon getekend, dus zowel de naalden aan de goede kant als aan de verkeerde kant. Je begint onderaan het patroon. De eerste naald is aan de goede kant, de tweede naald aan de verkeerde kant. Bij de uitleg van de pictogrammen staat aangegeven hoe je de betreffende steken op de goede of de verkeerde kant breit.

Martina Keller 24.09.2019 - 13:14:

Hallo, mir ist leider nicht verständlich welches Rapport für welche Größe des Jäckchens bestimmt ist. Z.b. Für Frühchen welches Rapport ?? Finde in der Anleitung keinen Hinweis. Würde mich über eine Zuordnung von Größe zu Rapport sehr freuen. Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 13:50:

Liebe Frau Keller, die Diagramme werden in allen Größen gestrickt, in die 1. Größe stricken Sie : A.1A (2 Maschen), dann wiederholen Sie A.1B insgesamt 21 Mal und enden Sie mit A.1C (= 4 Maschen), also zwischen den Blendemaschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marie Rasmussen 19.09.2019 - 10:13:

Hej det har jeg læst og ved os det strikkes frem og tilbage og læses højre mod venstre og omvendt tilbage, men jeg for stadig ikke det til gå op og ej heller det samme mønster og der står mønster set fra ret siden, jeg har vist dette til andre garvede strikkere som også er i tvivl på dette diagram, om der skal være ret pinde på tilbage vejen eller om hver anden pind også er med i diagram, det derfor jeg henvender mig

Marie Rasmussen 18.09.2019 - 16:41:

Og er der ikke en video hvordan man laver den pind hvor man strikker ind mellem 4 og 5 maske og strikker en ret 2 vrang 1 ret. Jeg for nemlig noget helt andet en det på billede

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 09:53:

Hej Marie, Vi skal skrive dit ønske om denne video på ønskelisten :) Men samme teknik er her, så se her hvordan du gør:

How to knit A.1 - beginning of jumper for DROPS 179-1 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Marie Rasmussen 18.09.2019 - 13:30:

Jeg kan simpelthen ikk greje hvordan med det diagram, skal alle vrang pinde strikkes vrang og kun mønster på ret siden eller er der kun udtagninger i ret og drejet ret på vrang

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 09:49:

Hej Marie, Læs gerne under FAQ hvordan man strikker efter et diagram. God fornøjelse!

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