DROPS Baby / 33 / 25

Stroll in the Park Hat by DROPS Design

Hat for baby with textured pattern. Size premature - 4 years. Piece is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino or DROPS Alpaca.

Tags: hats, headwear, sets,
  • Stroll in the Park Hat / DROPS Baby 33-25 - Hat for baby with textured pattern. Size premature - 4 years. Piece is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino or DROPS Alpaca.
  • Stroll in the Park Hat / DROPS Baby 33-25 - Hat for baby with textured pattern. Size premature - 4 years. Piece is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino or DROPS Alpaca.
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-104-by
Yarn group A
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

Head circumference: 28/32 - 34/38 - 40/42 – 42/44 - 44/46 - 48/50 – 50/52 cm = 11”/12 1/2” - 13 3/8”/15” – 15 3/4”/16 1/2” – 16 1/2”/17 1/4” – 17 1/4”/ 18” - 19”/19 3/4” – 19 3/4”/20 1/2”
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 11, ice blue

Or use:
DROPS ALPCA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 9026, blush

24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 2.95 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.95$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.


See diagram A.1.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 9.
In this example decrease by knitting every 8th and 9th stitch together.

Work piece in the round on double pointed needles bottom up.
Cast on somewhat loosely (60) 72-84-90-96 (108-108) stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Baby Merino or Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 2) for 2 cm = 3/4”. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work A.1 in the round (= (10) 12-14-15-16 (18-18) repetitions of 6 stitches). When A.1 has been worked vertically, work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH– see explanation above. Piece now measures approx. 9 cm = 3 1/2”. Then work in stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures (10) 10-11-12-13 (13-14) cm = (4”) 4”-4 3/8”-4 3/4”-5 1/8” (5 1/8”-5 1/2”, decrease (6) 8-7-8-8 (9-9) stitches evenly- read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other round (6) 6-6-6-6 (7-7) times in total (for every round work decrease 1 stitch less between every time 2 stitches are worked together) = (24) 24-42-42-48 (45-45) stitches. * Knit 1 round, on next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 *, work from *-* (1) 1-2-2-2 (2-2) times in total = (12) 12-11-11-12 (12-12) stitches. Cut the yarn.
Pull a double yarn through the remaining stitches and fasten tightly.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.03.2020
Correction on the 4th chart text: = knit the new stitch from previous row and next stitch (= 2 stitches) together (= 1 stitch decreased)


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = insert needle in between 4th and 5th stitch on left needle, pull yarn through (= 1 new stitch), knit 1, purl 2, knit 1
symbols = knit the new stitch from previous row and next stitch (= 2 stitches) together (= 1 stitch decreased)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Anne Christine 30.04.2021 - 01:15:

Hvorfor er det forskyvninger i diagrammet? Rad 8 skal man bare strikke den første maska rett?

country flag Gitte 16.04.2021 - 22:40:

Hvad gør man med den første maske på række 8 i diagrammet A1? Det er jo en retmaske der skal være en del af den sidste “knude” i omgangen. Skal den bare strikkes ret og tages med til sidst

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 15:02:

Hei Gitte. Ja, det kan du gjøre. mvh DROPS design

country flag Maria 05.11.2020 - 15:06:

Hallo liebe Drops Menschen, ich stricke gerade die "Stroll in the park" Mütze und habe mich gefragt, was die Lücke/leere Masche in Reihe 8 bedeutet? Das Msuter verschiebt sich, das verstehe ich, aber bedeutet das, dass in Reihe 8 die erste Masche abgehoben/nicht gestrickt/ zusammengestrickt wird? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe!

user icon DROPS Design 05.11.2020 kl. 17:20:

Liebe Maria, wenn Sie das 3. Symbol stricken= die Nadel zwischen die 4. und 5. Masche der linken Nadel einstechen, den Faden durchholen (= 1 neue Masche), 1 Masche rechts, 2 Maschen links, 1 Masche recht haben Sie bei 1 zusätzliche Masche (oben in bold), diese neue Masche stricken Sie bei der nächsten Runde zusammen mit der rechte Masche - bei der 8. Reihe wird die erste Masche der Runde abgehoben und das 3. Symbol wird über die 3 nächsten Maschen + die 1. Maschen von nächsten Rapport gestrickt - Dieses Video zeigt das Muster in Hin- und Rückreihen aber kann Ihnen troztdem weiterhilfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Collot 18.10.2020 - 12:34:

Bonjour Comment monter 6 mailles sous la manche après avoir mis 46 mailles en attente ?

user icon DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 09:04:

Bonjour Mme Collot, cette leçon" montre comment tricoter un pull de haut en bas, et, sur la photo 11) comment augmenter les mailles sous les manches. Bon tricot!

country flag Panpit Supap 15.09.2020 - 09:28:

Gestern habe ich Wolle bei Ihnen bestellt und gleich danach den Betrag von 19,30 € überwiesen. Aber ich habe keine Bestätigung bekommen und höre bis jetzt gar nicht von Ihnen.

user icon DROPS Design 15.09.2020 kl. 09:39:

Liebe Panpit Supa, wenden Sie sich bitte direkt an dem Laden, wo Sie Ihre Bestellung gemacht haben, nur sie können Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Maria 06.07.2020 - 12:23:

Hvorfor kan dere ikke lage en hel video for alle oppskrifter på denne nettsiden? Det er mye lettere å forstå enn vanlig oppskrift.

user icon DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 14:53:

Hei Maria. Vi prøver så godt vi kan å lage video til mange oppskrifter, og da tar vi utgangspunkt i det mange har problemer med å forstå/ønske om å se. Vi har mange video der vi viser mestparten av en oppskrift, men f.eks en hel video til en baby jakke vil jo ta mange timer og det er ikke aktuelt. mvh DROPS design.

country flag Martine Corbeil 10.06.2020 - 20:01:

J'aimerais tricoter ce bonnet, mais je ne comprends pas la correction apportée à la fin des explications: qu'entend-on par "4e légende"? Merci à l'avance. Le patron de ce modèle sera-t-il corrigé?

user icon DROPS Design 11.06.2020 kl. 08:19:

Bonjour Mme Corbeil, il s'agit du 4ème symbole de la légende - Cette correction n'est relevante que si vous avez imprimé le modèle avant la date de cette correction, sinon, le modèle en ligne est juste. Bon tricot!

country flag Anine Lona-D'Amore 07.06.2020 - 23:59:

Hei! På pinne 8 "hopper" den over første maske. I insrruksjonsvideoene så det ut som man da bare skulle strikke den første i henhold til mønsteret, men det blir feil i og med at "strekkene" skal strekkes over en rett i hver side. Kan dere forklare hvordan dette er tenkt? Takk :-)

user icon DROPS Design 09.06.2020 kl. 13:56:

Hei Anine-Lona. Videoen er laget til jakken til denne luen, men teknikken med å stikke pinnen inn mellom 4.og 5.maske på venstre pinne, trekk tråden igjennom (= 1 ny maske), strikk 1 rett, 2 vrang, 1 rett er den samme. Når du kommer til 8. omgang på luen, strikker du 1. maske rett, så strikker du A.1 x antall ganger (avhengig av hvilken str du strikker), siste gang du strikker A.1, må du telle med den første masken du strikket (det er den masken som «strikker» ut på 8. rad. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Monika Söderström 23.05.2020 - 16:30:

Stämmer det att det endast går åt 50 gr garn ? DROPS BABY MERINO från Garnstudio (tillhör garngrupp A) (50) 50-50-50-50 (50 - 50) g färg 11, isblå

user icon DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 10:00:

Hej. Ja det ska stämma. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Magda Wouters 16.05.2020 - 13:44:

Kan ik aub het patroon voor dit babyvestje downloaden in het nederlands ?

user icon DROPS Design 19.05.2020 kl. 13:34:

Dag Magda,

Onder de afbeelding van het patroon kun je de taal wijzigen. Daarna kun je het patroon afdrukken met de knop 'Afdrukken' onder de materialenlijst.

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