DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
4.75 $ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 4.75 $ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side |
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= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side |
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= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle |
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= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row/round |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Cracked Walnuts Sweater |
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Knitted sweater in DROPS Kid-Silk and DROPS Puna / DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted bottom up with textured pattern, ridges, cables, double neck and rib. Size XS – XXL.
DROPS 235-1 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. KNIT TOGETHER: FROM RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl 2 together. STOCKINETTE STITCH: When working from wrong side, purl and when working from right side, knit. INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): Work 1 past marker, make 1 yarn over, work as before until 2 stitches remain before marker at the end of round, make 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted. When working A.2, purl the increase, when working A.7, work increase in pattern. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Work front and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves bottom up, in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Finish with a double neck. BACK PIECE: Cast on 98-110-110-122-134-146 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1 until 1 stitch remain, 1 stitch in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 114-128-128-142-156-170 stitches on needle. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm = 6¼"-6¾"-7½"-7½"-8¼"-8¾". Work pattern, begin from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 27-36-36-40-44-48 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm = 13"-13¾"-14¼"-15"-15¼"-16⅛". Work pattern, begin from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.6 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 138-146-146-162-178-194 stitches on needle. Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.7 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17¾"-18½"-19"-19¾"-20"-21". Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.8 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 51-54-54-60-66-72 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches. When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝", bind off the middle 27-30-30-32-32-34 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder (30-31-31-35-40-44 stitches) separately. On next row from neck bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of row = 29-30-30-34-39-43 stitches. When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-24", work diagonal shoulder, begin on next row from the neck as follows: * Work pattern as before until 7-7-7-8-9-10 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 7-7-7-8-9-10 stitches less on every row from the neck. On last row towards neck, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 31-32-32-36-41-45 stitches. Now work and bind off with an edge over shoulder stitches. Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows: Work * 1 stitch in STOCKINETTE STITCH – read explanation above, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder – read KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on the needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches that were cast on. Bind off the 2 stitches. Work the other shoulder the same way. FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work as back piece until piece measures 46-48-49-51-52-54 cm = 18"-19"-19¼"-20"-20½"-21¼" = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches. Now slip the middle 15-18-18-20-20-22 stitches on a thread for neck and finish each shoulder (36-37-37-41-46-50 stitches) separately. Bind off stitches for neck on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 2 times in total and 1 stitch 3 times in total = 29-30-30-34-39-43 stitches remain on shoulder. Then work each shoulder as on back piece. SLEEVES: Cast on 60-60-60-72-72-72 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 strand of each quality. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round. Work A.1 in the round. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.2 over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches on row. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work A.3 over all stitches. Work A.3 2 times in total vertically. Work A.8 over all stitches, on first round decrease 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches evenly = 48-48-48-58-58-58 stitches. Repeat A.8a vertically until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm = 8", increase 1 stitch on each side of marker - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 3½-3½-2½-3-3-2 cm = 1¼"-1¼"-1"-1⅛"-1⅛"-¾" 6-6-8-6-6-8 times in total = 60-60-64-70-70-74 stitches. Work the increased stitches in the pattern. Bind off when sleeve measures 40-40-41-39-37-35 cm = 15¾"-15¾"-16⅛"-15¼"-14½"-13¾". Knit another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on edge. Sew in sleeves. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch. DOUBLE COLLAR: Begin in one shoulder seam, pick up approx. 76 to 104 stitches around the neck (including stitches on thread) from right side, on a short circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 strand in each quality. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib (purl 2/knit 2) over all stitches. When neck measures 14 cm = 5½", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl with circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 (make sure to avoid a tight cast neck-off edge). Fold the rib down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (43)
Diane wrote:
Ik ben de mouw aan het breien maar moet bij dit model meerderen in gerstekorrel maar wat ik ook doe,ik ga op een gegeven moment of 2 rechte steken of 2 averechte steken naast elkaar krijgen hoe kan ik dit voorkomen?\r\nMooi is het niet.ik ben de mouw op een rond breinaald aan het breien.moet 1steek breien dan een omslag de naald tot 2 steken voor het einde breien dan een omslag dan de laatste 2 steken breien,maar krijg toch 2 dezelfde steken naast elkaar en dat is niet mooi
27.12.2023 - 21:43DROPS Design answered:
Dag Diane,
Klopt, dit is helaas niet te voorkomen. De gerstekorrel wordt een tijdje verbroken totdat je weer meerdert. Gelukkig zit dit aan de onderkant van de mouw, waardoor het niet heel erg opvalt.
30.12.2023 - 18:07Susi wrote:
Kann ich bei diesem Schnitt die Ärmelmaschen auch einfach an den Rändern aufnehmen?. Dann müsste ich sie doch nicht extra einnähen . Was müsste ich dabei beachten?
18.12.2023 - 15:38DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Susi, wenn Sie die Ärmel von oben nach unten stricken dann sind die Muster nicht genauso wie beim Rumfpteil, am besten stricken Sie die Ärmel von unten nach oben genauso wie bei der Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
18.12.2023 - 16:26Abdou wrote:
Bonjour, Je ne suis pas une experte dans le tricot, mais j'aime beaucoup vos modèles. J'ai commencé à tricoté ce modèle et je beugue un peu sur le diagramme A2. Est ce que je tricote 1 maille envers puis 4 endroits et 1 maille envers, puis je recommence à chaque fois 1-4-1 ou pas?? Je ne sais pas si je suis assez claire. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.
06.10.2023 - 21:26DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Abdou, tout à fait, sur l'endroit, vous tricotez (1 m env, 4 m end, 1 m env), autrement dit sur l'envers (1 m end, 4 m env, 1 m end) et vous répétez de (à) tout le rang. Bon tricot!
09.10.2023 - 08:17Broux wrote:
Bonjour, quand on a tricoté A8a on termine par un rang endroit.On commence alors l'encolure sur l'envers?
30.05.2023 - 18:22DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Broux, l'encolure ne se fait pas en fonction du rang de A.8a mais en fonction de la hauteur pour votre taille, adaptez si vous le souhaitez et si besoin pour former l'encolure sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!
31.05.2023 - 08:12ROSELYNE MOUTHON wrote:
Bonjour, Je souhaiterais savoir si il existe une méthode pour assembler les mailles des épaules rabattues Avec la technique du I-cord? Merci
19.01.2023 - 13:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Mouthon, tout à fait, vous pouvez utiliser cette technique. Bon tricot!
19.01.2023 - 18:39Karine wrote:
Bonjour Pour l'échantillon il faut utiliser les aiguilles 4 ou 5,5 ? Merci
04.01.2023 - 17:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Karine, on utilise les aiguilles 5,5 pour l'échantillon. Bon tricot!
05.01.2023 - 10:46Kim wrote:
Hallo! Voor het voorpand: er staat “brei dan elke schouder zoals op het achterpand “. Maar het is onduidelijk vanaf waar. Moet ik hier direct verder gaan met de ‘diagonale schouder’? Of moet ik eerst nog A8 verder breien tot een bepaalde hoogte? Dat is onduidelijk.
24.12.2022 - 12:07DROPS Design answered:
Dag Kim,
Je breit de diagonale schouders zoals op het achterpand. Dit doe je als de schouder dezelfde hoogte heeft als het achterpunt. Dit kun je bijvoorbeeld meten vanaf het armsgat of je telt de naalden.
04.01.2023 - 21:19Karine Becque wrote:
Bonjour j'aimerais faire ce pull en merino extra fine couleur moutarde, quelle couleur me conseiller vous pour le fil kid silk ? Merci cordialement Mme becque
21.12.2022 - 10:27DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Becque, votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller la couleur idéale, n'hésitez pas à le contacter, même par mail ou téléphone, retrouvez ses coordonnées ici. Bon tricot!
21.12.2022 - 11:10Martine Lecomte wrote:
Bonjour , que signifie "au début du rang suivant à partir de l'encolure"?
24.11.2022 - 22:20DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lecomte, lorsque vous avez rabattu les mailles de l'encolure dos ou mis en attente celles de l'encolure devant, vous terminez chaque épaule/côté séparément; et, pour former l'encolure, vous allez rabattre en début de rang à partir de l'encolure = en début de rang sur l'endroit pour l'épaule gauche du dos/l'épaule droite du devant ou en début de rang sur l'envers pour l'épaule droite du dos/l'épaule gauche du devant. Bon tricot!
25.11.2022 - 08:41Alison Murray wrote:
Me again! How do I calculate the yarn required? I can't work out how to convert 2 different yarns to 1. Thinking of a sea green/North Sea type colour. Thanks Alison
08.10.2022 - 10:15DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alison, you can read the following lesson: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=14&cid=19, specifically the following section: "2 strands of different meterage to 1 strand". The meterage for this garment would be approx. 1200 meters, as the maximum. The amount of balls/grams necessary will depend on the yarn you want to substitute these with. Happy knitting!
09.10.2022 - 19:26