Cracked Walnuts Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk and DROPS Puna / DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted bottom up with textured pattern, ridges, cables and rib. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 235-2
DROPS design: Pattern pu-062
Yarn group A and B
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 106-112-112-126-138-150 cm = 41 3/4"-44"-44"-49 1/2"-54 1/4"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
Color/quality used on picture:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-650-700-750-800-900 g color 17, nougat
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-175-175-200-225-250 g color 42, almond

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-650-700-750-850-900 g color 07, light brown
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-175-175-200-225-225 g color no 12, beige

DROPS BUTTON NO 630: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 3.95 $ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 3.95 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 3.95 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.30 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 75.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

KNIT TOGETHER:
FROM RIGHT SIDE: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
FROM WRONG SIDE: Purl 2 together.

STOCKINETTE STITCH:
When working from wrong side, purl and when working from right side, knit.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work 1 past marker, make 1 yarn over, work as before until 2 stitches remain before marker at the end of round thread, make 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted. When working A.2, purl the increase, when working A.7, work increase in pattern.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
XS: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm = 2 3/8", 5 1/2", 8 3/4" and 11 3/4"
S: 6, 14, 22 and 30 cm = 2 3/8", 5 1/2", 8 3/4" and 11 3/4"
M: 6, 14, 23 and 32 cm = 2 3/8", 5 1/2", 9" and 12 1/2"
L: 7, 16, 25 and 34 cm = 2 3/4", 6 1/4", 9 3/4" and 13 3/8"
XL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm = 2 3/8", 5 1/2", 8 3/4", 11 3/8" and 14 1/4".
XXL: 6, 14, 22, 29 and 36 cm = 2 3/8", 5 1/2", 8 3/4", 11 3/8" and 14 1/4".

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece bottom up, back and forth in parts. Work sleeves bottom up in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 98-110-110-122-134-146 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).
Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Work next row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 114-128-128-142-156-170 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9.
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-8 1/4"-8 3/4".
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 27-36-36-40-44-48 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm = 13"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8".
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.6 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 138-146-146-162-178-194 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.7 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21".
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.8 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 51-54-54-60-66-72 stitches evenly 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 87-92-92-102-112-122 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8", bind off the middle 13-14-16-18-20-20
stitches and finish each shoulder (37-39-38-42-46-51 stitches) separately. On next row from neck bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of row = 36-38-37-41-45-50 stitches.
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24", work diagonal shoulder, begin on next
row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *, work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every row from the neck.
On last row towards neck, cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 38-40-39-43-47-52 stitches.
Now work and bind off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in STOCKINETTE STITCH – read explanation above, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from shoulder - read KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches
back on needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure that strand is not too tight *, work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches cast on. Bind off the 2 stitches.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 61-67-67-73-79-85 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 strand of each quality. Purl until 7 stitches remain, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
On next row from right side work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9, purl 1-0-0-1-0-1, knit 1-0-0-1-0-1, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9 as before, work A.2 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-77-77-84-91-98 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a, make 1 yarn over (this is done so that the pattern
Is the same mid front on both front pieces), work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 71-78-78-85-92-99 stitches. Knit yarn over
twisted on next row, then purl from right side and knit from wrong side.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-8 1/4"-8 3/4".
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.4 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 15-17-17-19-21-23 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.5 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm = 13"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8". Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.6 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 77-85-85-93-101-109 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.7 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21".
Work pattern as follows:
7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a as before, work A.8 until 1 stitch remains and decrease at the same time 21-24-24-27-30-33 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24", work diagonal shoulder, begin on next
row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *,
work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on every row from the neck.
On next row towards the neck work until 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches remain, slip the last 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 38-40-39-43-47-52 stitches.

Now work and bind off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from
shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *,
work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches cast on. Bind off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work as follows from wrong side: 0-2-3-3-5-5 stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until 7 stitches remain, work 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this (i.e. cables are done) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work the first 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches, turn and tighten
yarn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm = 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-3 1/2" on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 61-67-67-73-79-85 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 strand of each quality. Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, purl the rest of row.
On next row from right side work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 20-18-18-20-18-20 stitches remain, knit 1-0-0-1-0-1, purl 1-0-0-1-0-1, A.10, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until 18 stitches remain, A.10 as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-77-77-84-91-98 stitches on needle.
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat A.3 vertically until piece measures 16-17-19-19-21-22 cm = 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-8 1/4"-8 3/4".
Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.4 until 20 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 14-16-16-18-20-22 stitches evenly, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches.
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.5 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Repeat A.5 vertically. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-41 cm = 13"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8". Work pattern, begin from right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.6 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.6 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 77-85-85-93-101-109 stitches on needle.
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.7 until 20 stitches remain, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Work A.7 3 times in total vertically. Piece measures approx. 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21".
Work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.8 until 20 stitches remain and decrease at the same time 21-24-24-27-30-33 stitches evenly, A.10a as before, 7 band stitches in garter stitch = 56-61-61-66-71-76 stitches.
When A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
When piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24", work diagonal shoulder, begin on next
row from the neck as follows:
* Work pattern as before until 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches remain, turn and work back *,
work from *-* 3 times in total. I.e. work 8-9-9-10-11-12 stitches less on each row from the neck.

On next row towards the neck work until 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches remain, slip the last 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches on a thread for shawl collar and cast on 2 new stitches at the end of row = 38-40-39-43-47-52 stitches.
Now work and bind off with an edge over shoulder stitches.
Work stitches cast on with shoulder stitches as follows:
Work * 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, work next stitch together with first/next stitch from
shoulder – remember KNIT TOGETHER, pass the 2 stitches back on needle they came from with strand on wrong side of piece, make sure not to tighten yarn too much *,
work from *-* until all stitches from shoulder have been worked together with the 2 new stitches cast on. Bind off the 2 stitches.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Slip the 20-23-24-25-26-26 stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work as follows from right side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl until 0-2-3-3-5-5 stitches remain, and work the last stitches in garter stitch.
Continue like this (i.e. cables are done) and work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Work the first 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches, turn and tighten
yarn.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work 16-19-20-21-22-22 stitches.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): Work over all stitches, turn and tighten yarn.
ROW 4 (= right side): Work over all stitches.
Work 1st to 4th row until shawl collar measures approx. 7-8-8-9-9-9 cm = 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-3 1/2" on the shortest. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Bind off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 60-60-60-72-72-72 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 with 1 strand of each quality. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round.
Work A.1 in the round. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.2 over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches on needle. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9.
Work A.3 over all stitches. Work A.3 2 times in total vertically.
Work A.8 over all stitches, on first round decrease 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches evenly = 48-48-48-58-58-58 stitches. Repeat A.8a vertically until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm = 8", increase 1 stitch on each side of marker - read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 3½-3½-2½-3-3-2 cm = 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4" 6-6-8-6-6-8 times in total = 60-60-64-70-70-74 stitches. Work the increased stitches in the pattern. Bind off when sleeve measures 40-40-41-39-37-35 cm = 15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-15 1/4"-14 1/2"-13 3/4". Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside 1 stitch on i-cord edge. Sew shawl collar together mid back and sew it to neck line in the back of neck. Sew in sleeves. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch.
Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.09.2022
RIGHT FRONT PIECE: ... Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Work pattern as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.9a, make 1 yarn over (this is done so that the pattern is the same mid front on both front pieces), work A.3 until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = slip 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round/row
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 235-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Pillie wrote:

Bonjour, je suis en train de tricoter ce modèle et j’ai une question. Je suis sur le dos et je vais commencer le motif A4. Il est indiqué de diminuer de 36 mailles à intervalles réguliers. Est-ce que je dois diminuer de 36 mailles sur un rang (lequel ?) ou répartir 2 diminutions de chaque côté sur 18 rangs du motif ou encore autrement ? Merci d’avance à vous pour votre aide.

28.11.2022 - 13:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pillie, en L vous devez diminuer 36 mailles au 1er rang de A.4, ainsi, il vous reste 128-36=92 mailles pour tricoter A.4, avec 1 m lis au point mousse de chaque côté. Cette leçon explique comment répartir des diminutions à intervalles réguliers. Bon tricot!

29.11.2022 kl. 11:20

country flag Simaj wrote:

Bonsoir ; je fais appel encore une fois à vous pour m’expliquer les augmentations au niveau des manches après 20cm est-ce qu’il faut faire 1 jeté juste avant et après le marqueur ou après tricoter 2 mailles je suis confuse merci de votre aide 😊

14.11.2022 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Simaj, tricotez 1 maille après le marqueur du début du tour, faites 1 jeté, tricotez comme avant jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles avant la fin du tour, faites 1 jeté, terminez le tour comme avant. Au tour suivant, tricotez les jetés torse, d'abord à l'envers puis torse à l'endroit ou à l'envers en suivant A.8/A.8a. Bon tricot!

15.11.2022 kl. 09:31

country flag Simaj wrote:

Bonsoir ; désolée de vous déranger mais je n’ai pas compris ce passage vu que je suis entrain de faire ce modèle en M: tricoter A.9, 1 -0-0-1-0-1 maille envers, 1-0-0-1-0-1 maille endroit, tricoter A.1 jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 1 maille, 1 maille lisière au point mousse. est ce qu’il faut faire À.1 ou À 9 de même pour la suite : 7 mailles de bordure devant au point mousse, A.9 où A2 merci bcp

31.10.2022 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Simaj, vous tricotez les diagrammes simultanément sur un même rang, autrement dit vous tricotez A.9 mais en même temps vous tricotez A.1 - cette leçon explique comment lire et tricoter plusieurs diagrammes en même temps. Bon tricot!

01.11.2022 kl. 10:52

country flag Madeleine wrote:

When working the Shawl collar after the Right Front piece for Size Large - do I continue A8 after the garter stitches? There are 2 of A8 left, and knit over knit, purl over purl looks odd to me.

30.09.2022 - 01:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Madeleine, just work K over K and P over P - without cables anymore and the 7 front band stitches in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

30.09.2022 kl. 08:20

country flag Blom wrote:

Ik lees in het patroon dat ik moet beginnen met opzetten met 1 draad van elke kwaliteit (2 draden). Houdt dat in dat ik het hele vest met 2 draden dus met beide soorten wol tegelijk moet breien?

13.09.2022 - 20:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Blom,

Ja dat klopt, het het hele werk wordt met 2 draden gebreid.

14.09.2022 kl. 11:38

country flag Martina wrote:

The knitting tension given in this pattern is for the 4mm needles or the 5.5mm needles?

12.09.2022 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Martina, knitting tension is with the larger needles, ie size 5,5 mm. Happy knitting!

12.09.2022 kl. 17:39

country flag Nathalie Neuteboom wrote:

Komt dit model nog online met de korte mouwen. Heb op dat model namelijk gestemd en vind hem zo mooi.

31.08.2022 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nathalie,

Als het goed is komt die inderdaad online, maar ik kan niet zeggen wanneer precies. Vanaf nu tot en met november komen de patronen van de wintercollectie online.

31.08.2022 kl. 13:40

country flag Birgit wrote:

Landlust

08.08.2022 - 09:23

country flag Lana wrote:

Twisted caramel/candy

07.08.2022 - 09:09

country flag Pia wrote:

Warm caramel

06.08.2022 - 13:28

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