The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Flaming Mountain |
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Knitted sweater for men in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down, with raglan and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 224-17 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 136 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 20) = 6.8. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 7th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, alternately knit together each each 6th and 7th stitch. RAGLAN: Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in the transitions between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. A total of 8 stitches increased on each increase-round. DECREASE TIP (for body and sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. DOUBLE NECK: Cast on 136-136-144-152-152-160 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Alpaca. Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 8 to 9 cm = 3⅛" to 3½". Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Knit 1 round and decrease 20-16-20-20-16-16 stitches evenly spaced - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 116-120-124-132-136-144 stitches. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker! YOKE: Insert 4 marker threads, without working the stitches, as follows (start of round = mid-back): Count 22-23-24-26-27-29 stitches (= half back piece), insert marker thread-1 here. Count 14 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker thread-2 here. Count 44-46-48-52-54-58 stitches (= front piece), insert marker thread-3 here. Count 14 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker thread-4 here. There are 22-23-24-26-27-29 stitches left (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue with stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, start to increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every other round a total of 28-33-36-39-43-48 times = 340-384-412-444-480-528 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the yoke measures 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm = 9"-9¾"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½" from the marker on the neck. Now divide for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Work the first 52-57-61-67-73-82 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 66-78-84-88-94-100 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 104-114-122-134-146-164 stitches (= front piece), place the next 66-78-84-88-94-100 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 52-57-61-67-73-82 stitches (= half back piece). You have now worked 2-1-1-2-3-5 stitches on each side of both sleeves into the front/back pieces. The body and sleeves are finished separately. Remove the marker threads. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 228-248-268-292-316-352 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under each sleeve. Continue with stockinette stitch in the round for 2 cm = ¾". Decrease 1 stitch on each side of both markers - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-4-5-5-8-5 cm = 3⅛"-1½"-2"-2"-3⅛"-2" a total of 3-6-5-5-3-5 times = 216-224-248-272-304-332 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm = 12½"-12½"-13"-13"-13"-13" from the division (approx. 4 cm = 1½" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length). Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and knit 1 round where you increase 18-18-20-22-26-28 stitches evenly spaced - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 234-242-268-294-330-360 stitches. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BINDING-OFF TIP! The sweater measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜" from the shoulder down. SLEEVES: Place the 66-78-84-88-94-100 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-88-96-100-106-112 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round for 2-2-3-2-4-2 cm = ¾"-¾"-1⅛"-¾"-1½"-¾". Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm = 1⅝"-1⅛"-¾"-¾"-½"-½" a total of 9-13-17-18-20-21 times = 58-62-62-64-66-70 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 42-41-40-38-37-35 cm = 16½"-16⅛"-15¾"-15"-14½"-13¾" from the division (approx. 4 cm = 1½" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length). Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced = 62-66-66-68-70-74 stitches. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BINDING-OFF TIP! Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (30)
Hanan Salah wrote:
Pour que je puisse avoir 67 mailles pou demi dos en taille XL j’ai dû faire 42 diminutions au lieu de 39 et comme ça j’ai 8 mailles en plus pour la manche où est la faute ?
03.03.2022 - 19:09DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour, en fait il faut bien augmenter 39 fois seulement en taille XL mais la répartition des mailles se fera en attribuant des mailles des manches au dos et au devant; cf réponse précédente. Bon tricot!
04.03.2022 - 10:44Hanan Salah wrote:
Bonjour madame après les augmentations dans la taille XL j’ai pour la manche 88 mailles et 8 mailles en plus ? Comment ?
03.03.2022 - 17:38DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Hanan Salah, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre votre question, quand toutes les augmentations du raglan sont faites, vous avez 444 mailles, soit 65 m pour les deux demi-dos, 92 m pour chaque manche et 130 m pour le devant, diviser l'ouvrage comme indiqué: les 2 premières mailles + les 2 dernières mailles des manches sont attribuées au dos/devant, il reste ainsi 88 mailles pour les manches et vous avez 67 m pour chaque demi-dos + 134 m pour le devant. Est-ce que ceci peut vous aider?
04.03.2022 - 10:39Pnel wrote:
Bij de afstand voor het minderen voor de mouwen staat voormaat xxl een zeer afwijkend aantal cm. Graag zou ik, en wellicht anderen, willen weten wat het juiste aantal is. Met vriendelijke groet.
30.01.2022 - 10:02Au Fil De Lau wrote:
Pour obtenir 24 m sur 10 cm je dois passer à des aiguilles n°4 mais je trouve que le rendu est trop ajouré pour un pull homme Pour 24 m tricotées j'obtiens 8cm soit 4/5. Il faudrait donc que j'ajoute 20% de mailles en plus ?? Est-ce que je tiens le bon raisonnement ? Qu'en est-il pour les augmentations et les diminutions ? Est-ce pareil ? Comment taille ce modèle ?
20.01.2022 - 12:52DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Au Fil de Lau, essayez de bloquer votre échantillon pour vérifier si vous obtenez les bonnes mesures en largeur et en hauteur, si tel n'est pas le cas, il vous faudra alors tout recalculer, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande; votre magasin pourra éventuellement vous aider. Merci pour votre compréhension, bon tricot!
20.01.2022 - 17:08Gabriella wrote:
On the yoke increases: On 18/09 the english answer to Stefana´s question says to only increase EVERY OTHER round. But the italian answers on 20/11 both say to increase in EVERY round. I did the increases on every round as it states in the description, but I only have about 13 cm or so, very far from the 32 cm the yoke should measure in total. Which one is it? Do I need to restart and only increas every second row? It´s very confusing. Thank you!
11.01.2022 - 08:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Gabriella, English pattern was wrong, you have to increase for raglan on every other round, correction will be made, thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!
11.01.2022 - 09:22Maria wrote:
Ik wil deze trui breien in een structuurpatroon. Moet ik dan meer steken opzetten? en hoeveel?
13.12.2021 - 15:00DROPS Design answered:
Dag Maria,
Je zou dan een proeflapje kunnen breien met het structuurpatroon en op basis van het aantal steken dat in 10 cm zit uit kunnen rekenen hoeveel steken je op moet zetten.
14.12.2021 - 10:26Dea wrote:
Potreste cortesemente confermare che gli aumenti scritti per il raglan " Aumentare in questo modo su ogni giro per un totale di 28-33-36-39-43-48 volte" sono corretti? Se li faccio così non mi trovo con le misure. Grazie
19.11.2021 - 23:24DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Dea, le indicazioni sono corrette: gli aumenti sono su tutti i giri, alla fine degli aumenti prosegue a maglia rasata fino alla lunghezza indicata. Buon lavoro!
20.11.2021 - 12:16Patricia wrote:
I have had to use a larger needle size from 3mm to 4mm. I take it that all needs must be increased by a size up e.g. 2.5mm becomes 3.5mm. Is this correct?
18.11.2021 - 17:01DROPS Design answered:
Dear Patricia, correct :) Happy knitting!
19.11.2021 - 07:04Dea wrote:
Buongiorno, nelle istruzioni dice di aumentare nello sprone su ogni giro per un totale di 28-33-36-39-43- volte ma se faccio così mi avendo una resa di 10 cm ogni 32 giri poi alla fine non arrivo alla lunghezza di 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm dal segnapunti sul collo. Le indicazioni sono corrette o bisogna aumentare ogni 2 giri? Grazie
09.11.2021 - 11:02DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Dea, le indicazioni sono corrette: gli aumenti sono su tutti i giri, alla fine degli aumenti prosegue a maglia rasata fino alla lunghezza indicata. Buon lavoro!
20.11.2021 - 12:15Stefana wrote:
The yoke increase says to increase each round, but that would give a flaring raglan. I suppose the increases are on every other round.
18.09.2021 - 15:07DROPS Design answered:
Dear Stefana, please see the description for the raglan increases before the starting of the pattern. It tells you to Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in the transitions between body and sleeves..... On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. " So you only have to increase in ever other row. Happy Stitching!
19.09.2021 - 00:47