DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Little Missy

Knitted sweater for babies and children with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 12 years.

DROPS Children 32-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-043-bn
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------

Sizes: 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12) years
The size is equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152)
Height of child in feet: 2ft7/2ft9 (3 ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4 ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 54 (58-64-68-72-76-80) cm = 21¼" (22¾"-25¼"-26¾"-28⅜"-30"-31½")
Full length: 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm = 12⅜" (14½"-16⅛"-17¾"-19¼"-21"-22½")

All measurements in chart are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 (200-200-250-250-250-300) g color 30, mustard
100 (100-100-150-150-150-150) g color 01, off white

-------------------------------------------------------
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6 – for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5 – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Baby Children Children Jumpers Baby Jumpers Baby Nordic Jumpers Children Nordic Jumpers Easter assembly free colorwork nordic round neck round yoke top down

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out when to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 12. In this example, decrease by working together each 11th and12th stitch, or increase after each 12th stitch by making 1 yarn over (the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this by both marker threads (4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker approx. mid front (i.e. after 33 (36-38-42-42-46-46) stitches).
Knit until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left before the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on the other side, turn, tighten the strand and knit until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left, turn, tighten the strand and purl until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on the other side. Continue by working 8 fewer stitches each time you turn 2 more times in each side, turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. You work the yoke first which is then divided into sleeves and body. The round starts approx. mid back. The body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 72 (76-80-84-88-96-100) stitches with double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and mustard (in the 2 smallest sizes, you need to cast on with double pointed needles until you have enough stitches, the other sizes can be cast on and worked with short circular needle).
Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛".

YOKE:
Change to double pointed needles/circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 6 (4-3-0-4-5-9) stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 66 (72-77-84-84-91-91) stitches.
You can now work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke in slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above, or just continue.
Work pattern according to A.1 - NOTE: Choose diagram for your size (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) repeats of 6 (6-7-7-7-7-7) stitches). Continue and increase as shown in diagram.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When A.1 has been completed there are 176 (192-209-228-240-260-260) stitches on the needle.
Continue with stockinette stitch and mustard. On the next round increase 7 (7-10-7-3-0-11) stitches evenly on round = 183 (199-219-235-243-260-271) stitches.
When the piece measures 13 (14-15-16-17-18-19) cm = 5⅛" (5½"-6"-6¼"-63/4"-7"-7½") mid front (measured without the neck), divide the piece as follows: Work 25 (27-30-32-34-36-38) stitches, place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 8 new stitches, work 49 (53-59-63-67-72-75) stitches, place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 8 new stitches and work the remaining 25 (27-30-32-34-36-38) stitches as before = 115 (123-135-143-151-160-167) stitches.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 57 (61-67-71-75-80-83) stitches between marker threads on front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! When the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from where body and sleeves were divided, increase on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat the increase when the piece measures 6 cm = 2⅜" and 9 cm = 2½" from where body and sleeves were divided = 127 (135-147-155-163-172-179) stitches. When the piece measures 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm = 4⅜" (5⅛"-6¼"-7½"-8¾"-9¾"-11") from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 9 (9-9-9-9-8-9) stitches on next round = 136 (144-156-164-172-180-188) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5.
Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½". Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole sweater measures approx. 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm = 13⅜" (14½"-16⅛"-17¾"-19¼"-21"-22½"), measured from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 50 (54-58-62-62-66-68) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8 stitches (= mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stockinette stitch in the round with mustard. When the sleeve measures 1 cm = ⅛" from where sleeve and body were divided, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 1½ (2-2-2½-3-3½-3½) cm = ½" (3/4"-¾"-1"-1⅛"-1⅜"-1⅜") a total of 6 (6-8-8-8-8-9) times = 38 (42-42-46-46-50-50) stitches. When the sleeve measures 14 (16-21-24-28-31-35) cm = 5½" (6¼"-8¼"-9½"-11"-12¼"-13¾") from where it was divided from the body, decrease 2 stitches evenly on round = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1½" or to desired length.
Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures a total of approx.18 (20-25-28-32-35-39) cm = 7" (8"-9¾"-11"-12½"-13¾"15¼") from where it was divided from the body.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= mustard
	= off white
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with background color in pattern stripe; on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 40 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.
See more

Little Missy

Cindy, Sweden

Little Missy

Bella_nordic knits, Norway

Little Missy

Nikole, Germany

Little Missy

Nikole, Germany

Little Missy

Minna, Sweden

Little Missy

Amma Knitwear, Netherlands

Little Missy

ammaknitwear, Netherlands

Little Missy

Alyssa, Canada

Little Missy

Cindy, Sweden

Little Missy

Bella_nordic knits, Norway

Little Missy

Nikole, Germany

Little Missy

Nikole, Germany

Little Missy

Minna, Sweden

Little Missy

Amma Knitwear, Netherlands

Little Missy

ammaknitwear, Netherlands

Little Missy

Alyssa, Canada

Comments / Questions (95)

Silke wrote:

Kann es sein, dass bei A1 mit 7 Maschen ein Fehler in Reihe 3 ist? Das geht irgendwie nicht auf. Wieviel Maschen müssen es denn nach den Zunahmen in Reihe 1 sein?

21.11.2024 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Silke, meinen Sie in 3/4 + 5/6 ? dann ja vielleicht am besten den 1. Umschlag nicht stricken (so sind es nur 8 Maschen damit diie 3. Runde passt, dann können Sie der Umschlag am Anfang der 4. Runde anstatt machen, so haben Sie die richtige Maschenanzahl. Unser Designteam wird das noch mal schauen, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

22.11.2024 - 08:43

Sylviane Gaspard wrote:

Bonjour, dans les explications Dos/devant, il est indiqué "Répéter ces augmentations quand l'ouvrage mesure 6 et 9 cm depuis la séparation du dos/devant et des manches = 127 m". Je ne comprends pas cette phrase. Combien de fois faut-il faire les augmentations ? Jusqu’à ce que le pull fasse 6 ou 9 cm depuis la séparation ? Merci de votre retour.

08.11.2024 - 08:43

Bonjour Mme Gaspard, vous allez augmenter 3 fois au total: la 1ère fois à 3 cm de la division, la 2ème fois à 6 cm de la division et la 3ème fois à 9 cm de la division (soit 3 fois tous les 3 cm). Vous aviez 115 m + 3 x 4 augmentations = 127 mailles. Bon tricot!

08.11.2024 - 12:41

Anna wrote:

Ohjeessa lukee lisäyskohdossa, että "tee silmukan väliin kuvioraidan pohjavärillä 1 langankierto" eli millä värillä langankierto siis tehdään?

04.10.2024 - 07:46

Hei, langankierrot tehdään sinapinkeltaisella langalla.

04.10.2024 - 18:08

Sophia wrote:

Hej, jag har stickat i den minsta storleken men efter A1 är färdigt har jag bara 144 maskor (ska va 176) storlek något om att man ska sticka A1 11x6 vad menas med det? Jag har endast stickat A1 en gång, rad för rad. Ska en del utav A1 upprepas? Förstårt verkligen inte. Tacksam för hjälp. Är ny på stickning och mönster. Sophia

16.09.2024 - 15:22

Hej Sophia. Du har 66 maskor totalt i minsta storleken. Sedan stickar du A.1 som består av 6 maskor i din storlek, dvs du kommer upprepa A.1 11 gånger på varvet (6*11=66m). I diagrammet finns ökningar inritade så när du har stickat hela diagrammet på höjden så är det 16 m i A.1. 11*16= 176 m. Hoppas det hjälper dig att förstå. Mvh DROPS Design

17.09.2024 - 14:19

Thérèse wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse. Oups, j'avais oublié de faire les diminutions du 1er rang de l'empiècement!

18.06.2024 - 02:46

Plauchu wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai fini le pull pour ma petite fille de 3 ans. maintenant je commence le même pull en 2 ans. J'ai une difficulté au niveau du 1er rang du diagramme : selon le modèle je devrais une fois faite les augmentations 96 mailles or moi j'en trouve 4 de plus.

15.06.2024 - 01:42

Bonjour Mme Plauchu, avant A.1 vous avez 72 mailles en 2 ans, vous tricotez 12 fois les 6 mailles de A.1 (soit 6x12=72), en même temps, vous augmentez 2 m dans chaque A.1, à la fin du 1er rang vous avez 8 m (dans chaque A.1) x 12 =96 mailles, si vous en avez 100, peut-être avez-vous augmenté 4 fois de trop? Pensez à mettre un marqueur entre chaque diagramme, cela permet de mieux suivre le motif/les répétitions et de vérifier son nombre de mailles. Bon tricot!

17.06.2024 - 08:04

Bonjour, j'ai posé une question mais je crois que j'ai fait une erreur dans mon adresse mail. j'aimerais des explications complémentaires pour les manches. j'ai relevé les 8 m (modèle 3/4ans) soit au total 58 mailles , puis à 1 cm j'ai diminué 2 mailles sous la manche (56 mailles). puis j'ai diminué 8 fois 2mailles. mon total de mailles restantes est 40 et non 42 comme indiqué. Merci pour votre réponse

03.06.2024 - 08:17

Cf réponse ci-dessous :)

03.06.2024 - 12:45

Therese wrote:

Bonjour, Grace à vous je réalise mon 1er pull avec des aiguilles circulaires. Merci pour vos explications; cependant j'aimerais des explications complémentaires pour les manches. j'ai relevé les 8 m (modèle 3/4ans) soit au total 58 mailles , puis à 1 cm j'ai diminué 2 mailles sous la manche (56 mailles). puis j'ai diminué 8 fois 2 mailles; mon total de mailles restantes est 40 mailles et non pas 42 comme indiqué. Merci pour votre réponse

03.06.2024 - 07:33

Bonjour Thérèse, vous devez diminuer 8 fois au total, y compris la 1ère diminution indiquée, autrement dit vous aurez 58 - (8 x 2 mailles) = 42 mailles. Bon tricot!

03.06.2024 - 08:26

Sabine Nagel wrote:

Ich habe den Pullover in Größe 5/6 angefangen mit 84 Maschen Anschlag und das entsprechende Diagramm für die Passe gestrickt. Nachdem ich A 1 zu Ende gestrickt habe, komme ich jedoch nur auf 209 Maschen (wie für die kleinere Größe 3/4) statt der in der Anleitung beschriebenen 228 Maschen. Was habe ich falsch gemacht oder gibt es einen Fehler in Anleitung oder Diagramm? Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe!

26.04.2024 - 10:08

Liebe Frau Nagel, in Größe 5/6 stricken Sie insgesamt 12 Mal A.1 (12 x 7 = 84 Maschen), wenn A.1 fertig ist sind es 19 Maschen in jedem A.1 x 12 Rapporte in der Runde sind insgesamt 228 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

26.04.2024 - 13:38

LABERNIA wrote:

J'ai tricoté ce pull en 2 ans. Mon tour premier pull en top down circulaire. J'ai beaucoup apprécié vos explications pour la rehausse à l allemande, (sinon j avais des trous) . Je voulais vous montrer la photo mais je ne sais pas comment faire.

11.04.2024 - 09:40

Bonjour! Vous pouvez envoyer le lien a votre projetICI. Vous pouvez aussi ajouter la photo sur notre page facebook ICI.

11.04.2024 - 10:07

	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order

Little Missy

Knitted sweater for babies and children with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 12 years.

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 32-7

Comments / Questions (95)

Little Missy

Knitted sweater for babies and children with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 12 years.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?