Little Missy Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for babies and children with round yoke in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 12 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no li-012-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12) years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152)
Height of child in feet:
2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12)
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 56 (60-64-68-72-78-80) cm = 22” (23 5/8”-25 1/2”-26 3/4”-28 3/4”-30 3/4”-31 1/2”)
Full length: 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm = 13 3/8” (14 1/2”-16 1/8”-17 3/4”-19 1/4”-21”-22 1/2”)

All measurements in chart are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 (200-200-250-250-300-300) g color 2923, goldenrod
100 (100-100-150-150-150-150) g color 0100, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6 – for stockinette stitch on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5 – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Coconut NO 516: 5 (6-6-6-7-7-8) items.

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Comments (7)

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 2.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP (for bands):
The whole of the band is worked in goldenrod. In other words, use 1 ball for each band where needed (i.e. on the rows where goldenrod is not used in the pattern).
Change strands between band and yoke (to avoid strand-changes on outside of band). When changing strands, twist the two strands together so that the stitches stay together.


DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches), minus the bands (= 74 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.57. In this example, decrease by knitting together alternately each 9th and 10th stitch and each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.); increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 10th and each 11th stitch (approx.). The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes – NOTE: Do not decrease/increase over the bands.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side. Knit until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left in the other side, turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on other side. Continue by working 8 stitches less each time you turn 2 more times in each side, turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row, then purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together the 2nd and 3rd stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”, the next 4 (5-5-5-6-6-7) buttonholes are then worked after approx. every 6 (6-6½-7-6½-7-7) cm = 2 3/8” (2 3/8”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The yoke is worked first, then it is divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 84 (88-92-96-100-108-112) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and goldenrod. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, in each side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1 1/8” – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above and finish after 1 row from the right side.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Purl 1 row from the right side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and decrease 7 (5-4-1-5-6-10) stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (purl 2 stitches together = 1 stitch decreased) = 77 (83-88-95-95-102-102) stitches.
You can now work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or continue working.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern according to A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on row – Note: Choose diagram for your size (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) repeats of 6 (6-7-7-7-7-7) stitches), work A.2 over the next stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram – read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 187 (203-220-239-251-271-271) stitches on the row. Continue with stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side in golden rod. On the next row from the right side increase 7 (7-10-7-3-0-11) stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 194 (210-230-246-254-271-282) stitches.
When the piece measures 13 (14-15-16-17-18-19) cm = 5 1/8” (5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”) mid front (measured without the neck), divide the piece as follows: Work 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle, work 52 (56-62-66-70-75-78) stitches (= back piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle and work the remaining 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece) = 122 (130-142-150-158-167-174) stitches.

BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread 32 (34-37-39-41-43-45) stitches in from each side (= 58 (62-68-72-76-81-84) stitches between marker threads on back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on band. When the piece measures 3 cm =1 1/8” from where body and sleeves were divided, increase on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat the increase when the piece measures 8 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 130 (138-150-158-166-175-182) stitches. When the piece measures 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm = 4 3/8” (5 1/9”-6 1/4”- 7 1/2”- 8 3/4”-9 3/4”-11”) from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 14 (14-14-14-14-13-14) stitches on next row from the right side (do not increase over the bands) = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2”, then bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole jacket measures approx. 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm = 13 3/8” (14 1/2”-16 1/8”-17 3/4”-19 1/4”-21”-22 1/2”), measured from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 48 (52-56-60-60-64-66) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches (= mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stockinette stitch in the round with goldenrod. When the sleeve measures 1 cm = 3/8” from where sleeve and body were divided, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2 (2½-2½-2½-3½-3½-3½) cm = 3/4” (1”-1”-1”-1 3/4”-1 3/4”-1 3/4”) a total of 6 (6-8-8-8-8-9) times = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. When the sleeve measures 14 (16-21-24-28-31-35) cm = 5 1/2” (6 1/4”-8 1/4”-9 1/2”-11”-12 1/4”-13 3/4”) from where sleeve and body were divided, change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2” or to desired length.
Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures a total of approx. 18 (20-25-28-32-35-39) cm = 7” (8”-9 3/4”-11”-12 1/2”-12 3/4”-15 1/4”) from where sleeve and body were divided.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= goldenrod
= off white
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background color in the pattern stripe; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole




Comments (7)

Leave your comment!

Susanne Zelzer-Neumann 04.11.2018 - 14:01:

Sind auf dem Diagramm nur die Hinreihen angegeben? Wie werden die Rückreihen gestrickt? Der weiße Faden ist ja sonst nach der ersten Hinreihen in weiß und der Rückreihe in Ocker auf der "falschen "Seite.

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 09:38:

Liebe Frau Zelzer-Neumann, alle Reihe sind im Diagram gezeichnet, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Irene Fliegauf 26.10.2018 - 13:32:

Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße.

Irene Fliegauf 26.10.2018 - 12:37:

Hallo, stricke Gr. 5/6, Anschlag 96 M. komme leider nicht am Ende A1 und A2 auf 239 Maschen. Habe in R. 5 ,7, 17 jeweils nur 1 M. zugenommen . In einfarbigen Reihen im Rapporte zugenommen. Welchen Fehler mache ich?

DROPS Design 26.10.2018 kl. 13:17:

Liebe Frau Fliegauf, am Anfang der Passen nehmen Sie 1 M ab = 95 M. Dann stricken Sie 5 Blendemaschen, 12x A.1 (= 12 x 7 M), A.2 (= 1 M), 5 Blendemaschen. Am Ende A.1 haben Sie 19 M in jedem A.1 = 5 + 12 x 19 + 1 + 5 = 239 M. Bei den 1. 15. und 29. Reihe nehmem Sie jeweils 2 Maschen, bei den 5., 7., 9., 13., 17. Reihe nehmen Sie nur 1 M in jedem A.1. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lena Söderhäll Gille 08.10.2018 - 23:32:

1. Ska de aviga varven börja med A2 (borträknat de fem kantmaskorna förstås)? 2. För man börjar väl de aviga varven från vänster? 3. Man stickar väl en rad och sen börjar om på samma rad till dess varvet är slut? Tacksam för snabbt svar, så jag hinner sticka! Jag är så ovan att sticka uppifrån och ner. Som många av era mönster är.

DROPS Design 09.10.2018 kl. 18:22:

Hej, här svar på dina frågor: 1: Jo, från avigsidan stickar du först 5 kantm, sedan A.2, osv. 2: Alla varv från avigsidan stickas från vänster mot höger. 3: Ja, du upprepar mönsterrapporten tills varvet är färdigt.

Bärbel Haak 04.10.2018 - 13:13:

Welchen Rapport muß ich bei Größe 128 nehmen?\r\nLeider kann ich das nicht erkennen.\r\nVielen Dank

DROPS Design 04.10.2018 kl. 13:21:

Liebe Frau Haak, Größe 128 entspricht Größe 7/8 Jahre - siehe Diagramme A.1/A/2 mit 7/8 (1. Diagramme unter Diagram Text). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Carolin Triebler 22.09.2018 - 17:08:

Hallo, In der Anleitung steht etwas von einem Diagramm A.2. Leider finde ich keines...

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 08:25:

Liebe Frau Trieble, ein der Diagramme hat die falsche Name, A.1 (Diagram mit Zunahmen) wird wiederholt - und Diagram über nur 1 Masche ist A.2 = diese Masche wird am Ende der Hinreihe/Anfang der Rückreihe vor/nach die Blendemaschen gestrickt. Unser Designteam wird das so bald wie möglich korrigieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Carol Nilsen 17.09.2018 - 22:14:

Where is diagram A2? I only could download A1. Please send A2

DROPS Design 18.09.2018 kl. 09:09:

Dear Mrs Nilsen, diagram A.2 is the diagram worked over only 1 stitch in each size, it will be edit as soon as possible, thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!

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