The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K | |
= P |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Twin River |
|||||||
|
|
||||||
Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 174-14 |
|||||||
PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. RAGLAN: Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K the next 2 tog. Dec as follows after A.2: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso INCREASE TIP (BODY): Inc 4 sts on round as follows: Work until 1 st remains before marker in the side, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc in the other side of piece. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the new sts in garter st. INCREASE TIP (SLEEVE): Inc as follows mid under sleeve: Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts gradually in the pattern. NOTE: Work sts on each side of marker in garter st. RAGLAN DEC (ELEVATION): All dec are done from RS! Dec as follows after A.2: K 3 twisted tog. Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 3 sts remain before A.2, K 3 tog. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in the round. BODY: Cast on 150-162-168-192-210-234 sts with Nepal on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. * P 1, (K 1, P 2), repeat from (-) 23-25-26-30-33-37 more times, K 1, P 1, insert a marker here (= side) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. NOTE: Move the markers upwards when working. Continue rib in the round like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½". Now work pattern A.1 as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, then repeat A.1 the entire round until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm / 5⅛"-5⅛"-5½"-5½"-6"-6", inc 1 st on each side of each marker – see INCREASE TIP (BODY). Repeat inc when piece measures 27-28-29-29-30-30 cm / 10½"-11"-11½"-11½"-11¾"-11 3/4 = 158-170-176-200-218-242 sts. When piece measures 41-41-42-42-42-42 cm / 16"-16"-16½"-16½"-16½"-16½" (adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1), bind off sts for armholes as follows: bind off the first 5 sts on round, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, bind off the next 10 sts for armhole, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, bind off the remaining 5 sts. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts with Nepal on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work rib as follows: P 1, K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains on round, P 1. Continue like this in the round until rib measures 4 cm / 1½". Now work pattern as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, A.1 until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. When piece measures 9-8-7-6-10-9 cm / 3½"-3"-2¾"-2¼"-4"-3½", inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP (SLEEVE). Inc like this approx. every 13th-9th-7th-7th-6th-5th round 8-11-14-14-14-17 times in total = 58-64-70-76-76-82 sts. When piece measures 51-50-49-48-47-46 cm / 20"-19¾"-19¼"-19"-18½"-18" - adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1, bind off the middle 10 sts under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 48-54-60-66-66-72 sts. Make another sleeve the same way. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 as body where armholes were bound off = 234-258-276-312-330-366 sts. This is done without working the sts. Insert a marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Beg round on back piece, 4 sts after marker between sleeve and back piece. Now continue pattern as before and work in addition A.2 (= 8 sts) in every transition between body and sleeves (markers are in the middle of A.2). On next round start dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE: Dec differently on body and sleeves as follows: RAGLAN BODY: Dec every other round 21-24-24-24-26-26 times and every round 0-0-0-6-7-13 times (= 21-24-24-30-33-39 times in total). RAGLAN SLEEVES: Dec every 4th round 6-6-4-3-5-5 times and every other round 9-12-17-21-19-22 times (= 15-18-21-24-24-27 times in total). When all dec are done, 90-90-96-96-102-102 sts remain on round (= 144-168-180-216-228-264 sts in total dec). Now work pattern as before over the first 72-72-78-78-84-84 sts. Insert marker here (= between A.2 and right sleeve). Then work an elevation back and forth in neck in pattern as before AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan on every row from RS over the sts worked – READ RAGLAN DEC (ELEVATION) as follows: NOTE: Tighten yarn at every turn to avoid holes. ROW 1 (= RS): Work 55-55-58-58-61-61 sts (including the 8 dec sts), ROW 2 (= WS): Turn and work 45-45-48-48-51-51 sts, ROW 3: Turn and work 43-43-46-46-49-49 sts (including the 8 dec sts), ROW 4: Turn and work 33-33-36-36-39-39 sts. There are now 74-74-80-80-86-86 sts on round. Turn and continue in the round with rib as follows: Work K over K and P over sts in garter st until rib measures 4 cm / 1½". Bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Jumper measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛" from cast-on edge and up to shoulder. Fasten off. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
|||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||
|
|||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11518 patterns - 11509 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (201)
Sarah wrote:
Bonjour, j'ai un problème de compréhension sur les diminutions. Le dois diminuer pour le dos et devant 21 fois 8 mailles (4 pour le dos 4 pour le devant) total 21 x 8 = 168 les manches 6 fois 8 mailles et 9 fois 8 mailles ( 4 manche droite 4 manche gauche) total 15 x 8 = 120 . Ayant 234 mailles au début des diminutions je ne peux diminuer 288 mailles en sachant qu'il doit m'en rester 90 avant la rehausse. Meri
12.03.2017 - 09:20DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Sarah, vous diminuez 21 x 4 m (= 2 m sur le dos + 2 m sur le devant = 84 diminutions + 15 x 4 m (= 2 m sur chaque manche, 6 x tous les 4 tours et 9 x tous les 2 tours) = 60 diminutions. Vous aviez 234 m - (84+60 = 144) = il reste 90 m. Bon tricot!
13.03.2017 - 10:50Anne Mette wrote:
Tak for en dejlig opskrift! Jeg er dog gået i stå, da jeg nu skal til at strikke ærmerne og ryg/forstykke sammen i raglan indtagning. Der står "Tag ind på hver 2. omgang (ryg/forstykke) 24 gange og på hver omgang 6 gange". Der står noget lignende for ærmerne. Betyder det, at jeg først skal tage ind på hver anden omgang 24 gange og SÅ først begynde på at tage ind på hver omgang? Eller skal alt dette ske samtidigt? Jeg synes det er lidt forvirrende skrevet.
28.02.2017 - 19:02DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne Mette. Ja, först tager du ind de 24 gange i hver anden omgang og naar du er faerdig med det tager du ind i hver omgang 6 gange (det er saa for ryg/forstykke). Men du tager ind paa aermerne samtidig med at du tager ind paa ryg/forstykke.
01.03.2017 - 16:14Carole wrote:
Bonjour, Je ne parviens pas à comprendre la réhausse. 8 diminutions sont indiquées pour la réhausse alors qu'il n'y a que 6 diminutions sur cette partie du tricot. De plus lorsqu'on doit tricoter 58 mailles y compris les 8 mailles à diminuer, cela signifie-t-il qu'avec les diminutions cela fait 50 mailles ou les diminutions sont-elles comptabilisées dans les 58 m ? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.
25.02.2017 - 17:08DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Carole, pendant la ré-hausse, on va diminuer différemment (cf DIMINUTIONS RAGLAN (RÉ-HAUSSE)) soit 4 m sur le dos et 2 m sur chaque manche = 8 diminutions au total. Au 1er rang, vous tricotez 55 m en diminuant 8 m, il reste 47 m. Bon tricot!
23.03.2017 - 10:11Liette wrote:
Bonjour, J’ai monté mes manches sur la même aiguille, mais voici, je ne suis pas trop sûre des diminutions à effectuer. Si je comprends bien, selon les instructions suivantes : (taille large) Au 2e tour, dois-je à partir du dos, faire 6 diminutions consécutives 4 mailles avant A2 (6 X4=24) pour chacun des marqueurs côté dos/devant; et après A2, je fais 5 diminutions pour le côté manche???
23.02.2017 - 12:32DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Liette, au 2ème tour de l'empiècement en taille L vous devez diminuer avant/après chaque raglan = 8 dim (cf RAGLAN). Puis vous continuez à diminuer mais pas au même rythme sur les manches/le dos & le devant, soit au total: pour le devant & le dos: 24 x tous les 2 tours et pour les manches: 4 x tous les 4 tours et 17 fois tous les 2 tours. Sur certains tours, vous diminuerez seulement 4 m (devant & dos), et sur d'autres 8 m (devant & dos + manches). Bon tricot!
23.02.2017 - 13:39Tiziana wrote:
Buonasera non ho dimestichezza con i ferri circolari. Potrei utilizzare dei ferri normali per fare questo modello? Seguendo le stesse istruzioni? Grazie
10.02.2017 - 22:47DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Tiziana. Per lavorare con i ferri dritti dovrebbe dimezzare il numero delle maglie per il davanti e il dietro, aggiungendo 1 m di margine per le cuciture. Per le maniche, lavora avanti e indietro aggiungendo la m di margine. Rimane lo sprone che nel testo trova spiegato per la lavorazione in tondo e che in questa sede purtroppo non possiamo adattare ad una lavorazione diversa. Per il diagramma, sui ferri di ritorno il quadratino bianco corrisponde ad 1 m rov. Buon lavoro!
11.02.2017 - 00:39Liette wrote:
Dois-je comprendre que sur les côtés du chandail, après les côtes, c'est une lisière de point mousse qui s'élargie avec les augmentations!
24.01.2017 - 22:52DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Liette, les augmentations se tricotent en suivant A.1. Dans A.1, on a 2 m point mousse/1 m end (vu sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!
25.01.2017 - 09:09Liette wrote:
Concernant les augmentations, étant donné que c'est un tricot circulaire, lorsque vous mentionner au point mousse, voulez-vous dire que sur un tour c'est à l'endroit et que l'autre tour est à l'envers?
24.01.2017 - 22:43DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Liette, effectivement quand on tricote au point mousse, on va alterner 1 tour end et 1 tour env. Quand vous augmentez, tricotez les mailles au point mousse à l'end ou à l'env en fonction du rang précédent. Bon tricot!
25.01.2017 - 09:08Coya wrote:
Bonsoir, Pourriez-vous m'éclairer un peu au sujet de la rehausse. On fini le raglan avec 102 m pour la taille xl, puis on nous explique de tricoter 84m, de mettre un marqueur. La rehausse se tricote au-dessus des 84 m du début ou les suivantes. De plus dans l'explication des rangs, on passe de 61m à 51 m en faisant 8 diminutions?? Merci pour votre aide. Coya
20.01.2017 - 22:15DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Coya, en taille XL (= 4ème taille), on doit avoir 96 m quand les diminutions du raglan sont faites, pour la réhausse, on tricote 58 m en faisant les 8 diminutions comme avant (il vous restera moins de mailles sur l'aiguille), tournez et tricotez 48 m, tournez et tricotez sur 46 m en faisant les 8 diminutions (il vous restera moins de 46 m car vous diminuez en même temps) et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!
23.01.2017 - 09:15Pia Sepstrup wrote:
De første 4 cm "rib" - er det ikke det samme mønster, man fortsætter med på hele trøjen? Så vidt jeg kan se, sker der ingen ændring efter de 4 cm. Vh Pia
09.01.2017 - 15:59DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pia. Nej, det er ikke ens. Husk at du skal strikke rundt, saa bliver de to förste m (vrang paa 1 p og ret paa 2 p) rillestrik og ikke 2 vr som paa ribben.
11.01.2017 - 11:17Maike wrote:
Besteht das Muster in jeder zweiten Runde nur aus rechten Maschen? Bei den Raglanabnahmen sollen die Annahmen in der Hinrunde erfolgen. Die Arbeit wird doch aber in Runden gestrickt?
09.12.2016 - 19:46DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Maike, im Muster wird jede 2. Runde nur mit re. Maschen gestrickt. Bei den Raganabnahmen sollen Sie entweder jede 2. R/jede R abnehmen, es kann dann bei R. aus li/re. M oder nur re. M entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
12.12.2016 - 09:03