DROPS / 174 / 14

Twin River by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Twin River / DROPS 174-14 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Twin River / DROPS 174-14 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Twin River / DROPS 174-14 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Twin River / DROPS 174-14 - Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-236

Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
650-750-800-900-1000-1100 g colour no 6314, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 24 rows in pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K the next 2 tog.
Dec as follows after A.2: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

Inc 4 sts on round as follows:
Work until 1 st remains before marker in the side, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc in the other side of piece.
On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the new sts in garter st.

Inc as follows mid under sleeve:
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts gradually in the pattern. NOTE: Work sts on each side of marker in garter st.

All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after A.2: K 3 twisted tog.
Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 3 sts remain before A.2, K 3 tog.

Worked in the round.

Cast on 150-162-168-192-210-234 sts with Nepal on circular needle size 5 mm. * P 1, (K 1, P 2), repeat from (-) 23-25-26-30-33-37 more times, K 1, P 1, insert a marker here (= side) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. NOTE: Move the markers upwards when working. Continue rib in the round like this until piece measures 4 cm. Now work pattern A.1 as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, then repeat A.1 the entire round until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker – see INCREASE TIP (BODY). Repeat inc when piece measures 27-28-29-29-30-30 cm = 158-170-176-200-218-242 sts. When piece measures 41-41-42-42-42-42 cm (adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1), cast off sts for armholes as follows: Cast off the first 5 sts on round, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, cast off the next 10 sts for armhole, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, cast off the remaining 5 sts. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts with Nepal on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work rib as follows: P 1, K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains on round, P 1. Continue like this in the round until rib measures 4 cm. Now work pattern as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, A.1 until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. When piece measures 9-8-7-6-10-9 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP (SLEEVE). Inc like this approx. every 13th-9th-7th-7th-6th-5th round 8-11-14-14-14-17 times in total = 58-64-70-76-76-82 sts. When piece measures 51-50-49-48-47-46 cm - adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1, cast off the middle 10 sts under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 48-54-60-66-66-72 sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 234-258-276-312-330-366 sts. This is done without working the sts. Insert a marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Beg round on back piece, 4 sts after marker between sleeve and back piece.
Now continue pattern as before and work in addition A.2 (= 8 sts) in every transition between body and sleeves (markers are in the middle of A.2). On next round start dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE: Dec differently on body and sleeves as follows:
Dec every other round 21-24-24-24-26-26 times and then every round 0-0-0-6-7-13 times (= 21-24-24-30-33-39 times in total).
Dec every 4th round 6-6-4-3-5-5 times and then every other round 9-12-17-21-19-22 times (= 15-18-21-24-24-27 times in total).

When all dec are done, 90-90-96-96-102-102 sts remain on round (= 144-168-180-216-228-264 sts in total dec).

Now work pattern as before over the first 72-72-78-78-84-84 sts. Insert marker here (= between A.2 and right sleeve). Then work an elevation back and forth in neck in pattern as before AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan on every row from RS over the sts worked – READ RAGLAN DEC (ELEVATION) as follows: NOTE: Tighten yarn at every turn to avoid holes.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 55-55-58-58-61-61 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 2 (= WS): Turn and work 45-45-48-48-51-51 sts,
ROW 3: Turn and work 43-43-46-46-49-49 sts (including the 8 dec sts),
ROW 4: Turn and work 33-33-36-36-39-39 sts.
There are now 74-74-80-80-86-86 sts on round.
Turn and continue in the round with rib as follows: Work K over K and P over sts in garter st until rib measures 4 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Jumper measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm from cast-on edge and up to shoulder. Fasten off.

Sew the openings under the sleeves.


symbols = K
symbols = P

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 174-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (144)

country flag Vera 09.04.2021 - 09:56:

Hartelijk dank voor het antwoord op mijn vraag. Ik begrijp nu dat ik de beschrijving niet goed gelezen heb. Hierin wordt twee keer het minderen beschreven, ik heb de onderste beschrijving, de verkeerde gebruikt voor de raglan, ik minderde daardoor steeds 2 steken per keer en niet 1. Daardoor ging het minderen twee keer zo snel waardoor iksteken tekort kwam.

country flag Vera 07.04.2021 - 11:57:

Vraag, daarom nog maar eens: ik begrijp het minderen voor de raglan niet. Ik kom steken te kort, als ik elke 2e naald zowel op de rug als de borst minder. Toch lijkt dat er te staan. Moet ik op de rug 1 keer per 4 naalden aan beide kanten minderen en ook op de voorkant 1 keer per 4 naalden en dit dan afwisselend doen?

user icon DROPS Design 08.04.2021 kl. 09:20:

Dag Vera,

De minderingen op de rug en op de borst (dus op het lijf) zijn hetzelfde in aantal. Afhankelijk van je maat, minder je 21-24-24-24-26-26 keer om de naald (dus de ene naald wel en de ander naald niet. Daarna meerder je voor het lijf nog eens 0-0-0-6-7-13 keer op iedere naald. Tegelijkertijd meerder je op de mouwen zoals beschreven staat bij RAGLAN MOUWEN.

country flag Irene Mattson 18.03.2021 - 23:32:

När man börjar med raglanintagningarna sätter man en märktråd på bakstycket.. Varvet börjar på bakst, 4 m efter markören mellan hö ärm och bakst. Var börjar man räkna efter intagningarna när man stickar de 72 m? Man hamnar inte vid hö eller vä ärm om man utgår från märkningen i början. Hur räknar man de 8 intagningarna? Är det vanliga raglan int eller förhöjd raglanminskn?

user icon DROPS Design 08.04.2021 kl. 09:50:

Hej Irene, du fortsætter med raglanindtagningerne på samme sted som tidligere når du starter med forhøjningen bagpå. Du har 90 masker på pinden. Når du har strikket de første 72 masker, bør du havne lige før første ærme på forstykket, nu starter du med 55 masker fra retsiden , vend og strik 45 masker tilbage osv. God fornøjelse!

country flag Alex 16.03.2021 - 17:31:

Hi, are there specific measurements for S/M/L sizes? Like what cm breast size would Small fit?

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2021 kl. 18:53:

Hi Alex, there is not. It depends on garment shape. Please see the lesson DROPS HERE. Happy knitting!

country flag Irene 14.03.2021 - 17:33:

Om man minskar för raglan tre maskor tillsammans så finn det inga maskor kvar när man har gjort det antal gånger som det står i mönstret. Vad har jag missat?

user icon DROPS Design 17.03.2021 kl. 08:07:

Hej Irene. Det är bara när du stickar förhöjning du minskar 3 maskor på varje sida av markören vid raglan. Annars minskar du enligt förklaring "RAGLAN: Minska så här före A.2: Sticka tills det återstår 2 m före A.2, sticka de 2 nästa m räta tills, Minska så här efter A.2: Lyft 1 m, 1 rm, drag den lyfta m över." Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Barbara 12.03.2021 - 15:06:

Hello! I am knitting the size M. I am at the RAGLAN part, and I decreased 24x4 stich every round, in the sleeves 18x8 sts=240 sts decreased oveall. According to the description it is decreased 168. What is the problem, can you help me? Thanks a lot!

user icon DROPS Design 12.03.2021 kl. 15:37:

Dear Barbara, you should decrease only 2 sts on each front/back piece and sleeves, ie 2 sts x 24 times on front/back piece = 96 sts in total on body and 2 sts x 18 times on each sleeve x 2 sleeves = 72 sts. There were 258 sts - 96-72= 90 sts remain. Happy knitting!

country flag Bianka 12.03.2021 - 15:02:

Kedves Garnstudio! M-es méretet kötök. Vállrésznél a testrésznél 24x4szemet fogyasztok körönként, ujjakon összesen 18x8szemet=240 szemet fogyasztottam összesen. A minta viszont 168szemet fogyaszt összesen. Tudnának segíteni mi lehet a baj?

user icon DROPS Design 23.03.2021 kl. 00:23:

Kedves Bianka, csak 2 szemet kell fogyasztania az elején és a hátán és ujján, vagyis 12 szem X 24 alkalommal az eleje / háta darabon, = összesen 96 szem a testen és 2 szem x 18 alkalommal x 2 ujján= 72 szem. Eredetileg 258 szemmel indult - 96-72= 90 szem maradt. Sikeres kötést!

country flag Liette Boucher 11.03.2021 - 18:27:

J'essai de suivre votre patron mais il n'est pas facile a suivre. Voci ma question quand on fait une jete de chaque cote des marqueurs ont les tricoter en point mousse part la suite au prochain tour, si oui nous n'avons plus le style du debut qui est une maille a l'end, 2 a l'env etc. alors comment faire pour continuer avec le meme style du debut?

user icon DROPS Design 12.03.2021 kl. 08:23:

Bonjour Mme Boucher, les augmentations sur les côtés se tricotent au point mousse (1 tour à l'endroit, 1 tour à l'envers), et les mailles du devant et du dos se tricotent comme avant dans le point fantaisie. On augmente que 2 mailles avant ou après chaque marqueur (4 mailles par tour au total x 2 ), autrement dit, on n'augmente pas assez pour tricoter un nouveau motif du point fantaisie, raison pour laquelle les augmentations se tricotent au point mousse. Bon tricot!

country flag Jette Ottesen 23.02.2021 - 16:09:

Jeg skal nu strikke mønster over de første 84 masker i XXL og derefter sætte en markering. Herefter skal jeg strikke 61 masker og lave forhøjningen. Den forhøjning ender altså på et af ærmerne, når der tælles på denne måde. Det kan ikke være rigtigt. Samtidigt skriver I hele tiden 8 masker til raglanindtagninger. Hvordan kan det blive det, når der skal strikkes 3 masker sammen på raglan ved forhøjning? Kan I hjælpe?

country flag Cynthell93 22.02.2021 - 21:59:

Ik ben aangekomen in het patroon bij het afmaken van de trui. Ik moet alleen de hals nog. Ik heb 90 steken op de rondbreinaald. Ik heb 72 steken gebreit in de eerste naald van het telpatroon. Markeerder geplaatst en vanaf hier begrijp ik het patroon niet meer! Als ik 55 steken terug ga breien zit ik a. Aan de verkeerde kant en b. Ik kom maar langs 5 punten waarop ik moet minderen waarop de trui voor de rest van de steken ongebreit is een scheef zal worden. Hoe moet dit?

user icon DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 12:21:

Dag Cynthell93,

Het is de bedoeling dat je vanaf dat punt verder breit, dus vanaf de rechter mouw brei je NLD 1 zoals beschreven, pas na deze eerste naald keer je het werk en brei je naald 2 enz.

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