Lacey Laurels by DROPS Design
Knitted hat and shawl in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with rib and leaf pattern in Fisherman’s rib.
DROPS 203-14
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-874
Yarn group A
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WHOLE SET:
SIZES:
SHAWL: One-size
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm = 70 3/4”.
HAT: S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”/23 5/8”
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-450 g color 9025, hazelnut
HAT:
SIZES:
S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”/23 5/8”
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100 g color 9025, hazelnut
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
SHAWL:
SIZE:
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm = 70 3/4”.
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400 g color 9025, hazelnut
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
NOTE: Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-874
Yarn group A
-------------------------------------------------------
WHOLE SET:
SIZES:
SHAWL: One-size
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm = 70 3/4”.
HAT: S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”/23 5/8”
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-450 g color 9025, hazelnut
HAT:
SIZES:
S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”/23 5/8”
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100 g color 9025, hazelnut
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
SHAWL:
SIZE:
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm = 70 3/4”.
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400 g color 9025, hazelnut
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
NOTE: Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1B and A.3B.
Shawl: See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
DIAGRAM TIP:
This pattern contains many diagrams; it might be a good idea to cut out all the diagrams and arrange them in the right order (see the order given in the text).
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on hat):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 122 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 12.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together approx. each 11th and 12th stitch.
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on shawl):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly on each side of the middle stitch, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 81 stitches) minus the edge stitches and middle stitch (5 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by 2 ( to find the number of stitches on each side of the middle stitch). Then divide these stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made on each side (e.g. 18) = 2.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 2nd stitch. Do not increase over edge stitches or middle stitch.
When decreasing, work approximately all stitches together 2 and 2.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
HAT:
Cast on 120-126 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 5-6 cm = 2”-2 3/8”.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-28 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 132-154 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work A.3B in the round (= 6-7 repeats of 22 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.3B has been completed the piece measures approx. 16-17 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4” from the cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-14 stitches evenly spaced = 144-168 stitches.
Work A.1B. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B decrease 16-24 stitches evenly spaced = 128-144 stitches. Work A.1B one more time in height. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 64-72 stitches.
Then work stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME, on every 2nd round, knit all stitches together 2 and 2 until there are 8 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27 cm = 10 1/4”-10 5/8” from the top down.
-------------------------------------------------------
SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.
SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Alpaca. Knit 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work and increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over and finish with2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
ROW 3 (= right side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch as far as the middle stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 4 (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 83 stitches on the needle and the last row was worked from the right side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work the next row in the same way as row 4 (= wrong side) and increase at the same time 17 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (34 stitches increased on row) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 119 stitches on the needle.
Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), work A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 159 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and at the same time decrease 5 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (10 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 151 stitches.
Work diagrams A.3 and A.4 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.3A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), work A.3C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), work A.4A over 15 stitches, A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), A.4C over 14 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.3 and A.4 remains there are 263 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and, at the same time, increase 43 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (86 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 351 stitches.
Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 391 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 stitch on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 395 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work the next row from the right side as follows:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 435 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and decrease at the same time 11 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (22 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 415 stitches.
Work diagrams A.5 and A.6 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.5A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), work A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.5C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.6A over 14 stitches, A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.6C over 15 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.5 and A.6 is finished there are 523 stitches on the row.
Work diagrams A.7 and A.8 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.7A over 18 stitches (1 time in width), A.7B over 32 stitches (1 time in width), A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), work A.7D over 33 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.8A over 32 stitches, A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.8C over 33 stitches, A.8D over 18 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.7 and A.8 remain there are 593 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 72 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (144 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 739 stitches.
Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 779 stitches on the row. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 783 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 has been completed there are 825 stitches on the row.
The piece measures approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2” measured along the middle stitch. Bind off as described below.
ELASTIC BIND-OFF EDGE:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off with knit from the right side as follows: Knit 2, * insert the left needle in the 2 stitches on the right needle, from left to right and knit them together, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten strands.
SHAPING TIP:
Moisten the piece and shape to the right measurements.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1B and A.3B.
Shawl: See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
DIAGRAM TIP:
This pattern contains many diagrams; it might be a good idea to cut out all the diagrams and arrange them in the right order (see the order given in the text).
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on hat):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 122 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 12.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together approx. each 11th and 12th stitch.
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on shawl):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly on each side of the middle stitch, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 81 stitches) minus the edge stitches and middle stitch (5 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by 2 ( to find the number of stitches on each side of the middle stitch). Then divide these stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made on each side (e.g. 18) = 2.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 2nd stitch. Do not increase over edge stitches or middle stitch.
When decreasing, work approximately all stitches together 2 and 2.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
HAT:
Cast on 120-126 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 5-6 cm = 2”-2 3/8”.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-28 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 132-154 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work A.3B in the round (= 6-7 repeats of 22 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.3B has been completed the piece measures approx. 16-17 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4” from the cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-14 stitches evenly spaced = 144-168 stitches.
Work A.1B. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B decrease 16-24 stitches evenly spaced = 128-144 stitches. Work A.1B one more time in height. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 64-72 stitches.
Then work stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME, on every 2nd round, knit all stitches together 2 and 2 until there are 8 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27 cm = 10 1/4”-10 5/8” from the top down.
-------------------------------------------------------
SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.
SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Alpaca. Knit 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work and increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over and finish with2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
ROW 3 (= right side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch as far as the middle stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 4 (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 83 stitches on the needle and the last row was worked from the right side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work the next row in the same way as row 4 (= wrong side) and increase at the same time 17 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (34 stitches increased on row) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 119 stitches on the needle.
Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), work A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 159 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and at the same time decrease 5 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (10 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 151 stitches.
Work diagrams A.3 and A.4 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.3A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), work A.3C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), work A.4A over 15 stitches, A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), A.4C over 14 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.3 and A.4 remains there are 263 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and, at the same time, increase 43 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (86 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 351 stitches.
Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 391 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 stitch on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 395 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work the next row from the right side as follows:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 435 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and decrease at the same time 11 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (22 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 415 stitches.
Work diagrams A.5 and A.6 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.5A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), work A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.5C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.6A over 14 stitches, A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.6C over 15 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.5 and A.6 is finished there are 523 stitches on the row.
Work diagrams A.7 and A.8 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.7A over 18 stitches (1 time in width), A.7B over 32 stitches (1 time in width), A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), work A.7D over 33 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.8A over 32 stitches, A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.8C over 33 stitches, A.8D over 18 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.7 and A.8 remain there are 593 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 72 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (144 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 739 stitches.
Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 779 stitches on the row. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 783 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 has been completed there are 825 stitches on the row.
The piece measures approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2” measured along the middle stitch. Bind off as described below.
ELASTIC BIND-OFF EDGE:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off with knit from the right side as follows: Knit 2, * insert the left needle in the 2 stitches on the right needle, from left to right and knit them together, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten strands.
SHAPING TIP:
Moisten the piece and shape to the right measurements.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Updated online: 19.09.2019
New charts: A.5A, A.5B, A.5C, A.6A and A.6C.
New charts: A.5A, A.5B, A.5C, A.6A and A.6C.
Updated online: 08.04.2021
Diagram A.1 and A.2 corrected - Symbols in the 2 top rows have been replaced
Diagram A.1 and A.2 corrected - Symbols in the 2 top rows have been replaced
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
|
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
|
= knit 1 in stitch under the next stitch |
|
= purl 2 twisted together |
|
= purl 2 together |
|
= increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over as shown in diagram (leaving a hole) |
|
= increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over twisted as shown in diagram (avoiding a hole) |
|
= decrease 2 stitches towards the left as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased) |
|
= decrease 2 stitches towards the right as follows: Knit 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased) |
|
= decrease 4 stitches as follows: Slip 3 stitches as if to knit them together, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the 3 slipped stitches over the knitted together stitches (= 4 stitches decreased) |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 291 catalogs and 10795 patterns - 10791 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hejsa I slutningen af første afsnit, kan jeg ikke få maskeantallet til at gå op, der står at man har 83 masker og skal tilføje 34. Det giver kun 117 men der står der skal være 119, er det fordi ser skal tilføjes 18 i stedet for?
10.01.2023 - 22:44DROPS Design answered:
Hej Jette, du skal også tage de 2 masker du du gjorde ifølge 4.pind :)
12.01.2023 kl. 14:39Bonjour, je voudrais tricoter le bonnet mais je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre le diagramme A.3B. Il se lit bien en rond ? Donc on tricote les rangs impairs (rang 1,3,5,etc. du diagramme) sur un fond de mailles envers et les rangs envers (rangs 2,4,6, etc. du diagramme) sur un fond de mailles endroit.
14.12.2022 - 22:49DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marie, pour tricoter A.3B en rond, lisez tous les rangs de droite à gauche en commençant en bas à droite, mais chaque rang devra se tricoter comme indiqué par les symboles, autrement dit, les rangs pairs ne sont pas tous tricotés en mailles endroit (= case blanche) mais aussi avec des mailles envers (cf 2ème symbole de la légende). Bon tricot!
15.12.2022 kl. 08:46Er alle fejl rettet i diagrammerne nu? Hilsen Ellen Christensen
07.11.2022 - 14:23DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ellen, ja alt er rettet :)
08.11.2022 kl. 13:27Der er en fejl i opskriften på Dansk. I diagramforklaringen for at tage to masker ind til venstre står der noget og et omslag hvilket overhovedet ikke giver mening. Er det ikke sådan man skal løfte en maske over, strikke to ret sammen og så løfte masken tilbage over dem der er strikket sammen? Mvh Lena
19.08.2022 - 15:35DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lena. Ja, her var det feil i den danske teksten. Vi skal fikse dette asap. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmeksom på dette. mvh DROPS design
22.08.2022 kl. 11:50Müsste im Muster nicht die Maschenanzahl von 5a (Reihenanfang 14 Machen) mit 6c (Reihenende 15 Maschen) übereinstimmen? Beim stricken der Rückreihe ist eine Masche zu viel. Viele Grüße
23.06.2022 - 23:05DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Marlies, A.5A ist 14 Maschen und A.5C 15 Maschen, und ist A.6A 14 Maschen und A.6C is 15 Maschen, so sind beide Muster gleich. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
24.06.2022 kl. 08:51Hej, Finns det någon video på hur man, från RÄTSIDAN, stickar "2 maskor vridet aviga tillsammans" och "2 maskor aviga tillsammans"?
19.03.2022 - 13:11DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne. I denna video ser du hur man stickar 2 maskor aviga tillsammans och i denna video ser du hur man stickar 2 maskor vridet aviga tillsammans. Mvh DROPS Design
22.03.2022 kl. 10:54Bonjour, Une fois A7 et A8 tricotés et les 739 mailles obtenues peut-on remplacer les diagrammes A1 et A2 par des côtes anglaises ? Dans ce cas doit-on prévoir plus de mailles ? Merci d'avance BN
18.03.2022 - 11:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour BN, probablement, pensez juste à bien augmenter comme avant (et comme dans les diagrammes) autrement dit comme dans A.1A, et A.1C et comme dans A.2A et A.2C. Il vous suffit à priori juste de tricoter ces mailles en côtes anglaises au lieu des côtes 1/1. Bon tricot!
18.03.2022 kl. 15:35Kedves Drops Team! A rugalmas leláncolás gyorsabb és egyszerűbb, ha horgolótűt használunk a jobb oldali kötőtű helyett. Így ugyanolyan rugalmas lezárást kapunk, de tapasztalatom szerint kétszer olyan gyorsan lehet haladni a lezárással, ami 825 szem esetében elég nagy munka.\r\nÜdvözlettel:\r\nKrisch Judit
15.02.2022 - 14:31Bonjour, Pouvez vous m’expliquer ce que signifie : 1 maille endroit en piquant sous la maille suivante Je ne comprend pas Merci Je vous remercie
28.01.2022 - 20:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mathilde, regarde la video ICI. Bon tricot!
29.01.2022 kl. 18:27Når jeg skal tage 2 ind mod højre skal jeg så strikke 5 masker ret sammen ? Der står : strik 3 masker og 2 slå om (=5 masker ) ret sammen.
24.01.2022 - 16:19DROPS Design answered:
Hei Line. Her har det blitt noen ord for mye i den danske oversettelsen. Det skal stå: = tag 2 masker ind mod højre således: Strik 3 masker ret sammen (= 2 masker taget ind) mvh DROPS Design
25.01.2022 kl. 13:45