DROPS / 203 / 14

Lacey Laurels by DROPS Design

Knitted hat and shawl in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with rib and leaf pattern in Fisherman’s rib.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-874
Yarn group A
-------------------------------------------------------

WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
SHAWL: One-size
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm.
HAT: S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-450 g colour 9025, hazelnut

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100 g colour 9025, hazelnut

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

SHAWL:
SIZE:
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400 g colour 9025, hazelnut

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
NOTE: Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1B and A.3B.
Shawl: See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DIAGRAM TIP:
This pattern contains many diagrams; it might be a good idea to cut out all the diagrams and arrange them in the right order (see the order given in the text).

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on hat):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 122 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 12.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together approx. each 11th and 12th stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on shawl):
All increases/decreases are worked from the right side.
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly on each side of the middle stitch, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 81 stitches) minus the edge stitches and middle stitch (5 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by 2 ( to find the number of stitches on each side of the middle stitch). Then divide these stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made on each side (e.g. 18) = 2.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 2nd stitch. Do not increase over edge stitches or middle stitch.
When decreasing, work approximately all stitches together 2 and 2.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------


HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 120-126 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 5-6 cm.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-28 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 132-154 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work A.3B in the round (= 6-7 repeats of 22 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.3B has been completed the piece measures approx. 16-17 cm from the cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-14 stitches evenly spaced = 144-168 stitches.
Work A.1B. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B decrease 16-24 stitches evenly spaced = 128-144 stitches. Work A.1B one more time in height. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 64-72 stitches.
Then work stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME, on every 2nd round, knit all stitches together 2 and 2 until there are 8 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27 cm from the top down.

-------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work and increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over and finish with2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
ROW 3 (= right side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch as far as the middle stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 4 (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 83 stitches on the needle and the last row was worked from the right side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work the next row in the same way as row 4 (= wrong side) and increase at the same time 17 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (34 stitches increased on row) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 119 stitches on the needle.

Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), work A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 159 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and at the same time decrease 5 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (10 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 151 stitches.

Work diagrams A.3 and A.4 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.3A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), work A.3C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), work A.4A over 15 stitches, A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), A.4C over 14 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.3 and A.4 remains there are 263 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and, at the same time, increase 43 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (86 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 351 stitches.

Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 391 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 stitch on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 395 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work the next row from the right side as follows:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 435 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and decrease at the same time 11 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (22 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 415 stitches.

Work diagrams A.5 and A.6 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.5A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), work A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.5C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), A.6A over 14 stitches, A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.6C over 15 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.5 and A.6 is finished there are 523 stitches on the row.

Work diagrams A.7 and A.8 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.7A over 18 stitches (1 time in width), A.7B over 32 stitches (1 time in width), A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), work A.7D over 33 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), A.8A over 32 stitches, A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.8C over 33 stitches, A.8D over 18 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.7 and A.8 remain there are 593 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 72 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (144 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 739 stitches.

Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 779 stitches on the row. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 783 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 has been completed there are 825 stitches on the row.
The piece measures approx. 65 cm measured along the middle stitch. Cast off as described below.

ELASTIC CAST-OFF EDGE:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight, cast off with knit from the right side as follows: Knit 2, * insert the left needle in the 2 stitches on the right needle, from left to right and knit them together, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten strands.

SHAPING TIP:
Moisten the piece and shape to the right measurements.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.09.2019
New charts: A.5A, A.5B, A.5C, A.6A and A.6C.

Diagram

= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit 1 in stitch under the next stitch
= purl 2 twisted together
= purl 2 together
= increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over as shown in diagram (leavings a hole)
= increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over twisted as shown in diagram (avoiding a hole)
= decrease 2 stitches towards the left as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased)
= decrease 2 stitches towards the right as follows: Knit 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased)
= decrease 4 stitches as follows: Slip 3 stitches as if to knit them together, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the 3 slipped stitches over the knitted together stitches (= 4 stitches decreased)










Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 203-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Hansi Koekkoek 20.09.2019 - 14:30:

Ik zie nog geen verschil tussen de oude en nieuwe telpatronen A.5A - A.5B - A.5C - A.6A en A.6C. Klopt dat?

Hansi Koekkoek 20.09.2019 - 00:34:

Patroon 203-14. A.5B in 27e naald zijn er 24 steken, in 28e naald 22 steken hoe moet ik dit oplossen?

Pavla 16.09.2019 - 21:14:

Is there a mistake in chart A5 and A6 on the row 25 and 26? I ended up with 2 more stitches on row 26 in each leave pattern

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 13:47:

Dear Pavla, thanks for your feedback, diagrams will be edited. Happy knitting!

Laila 25.08.2019 - 14:40:

Farven synes ikke at være på farvekortet. Er den planlagt til at komme? Hvornår?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 12:18:

Hei Laila. Fargen er ny og den er ventet inn på lagret iløpet av nærmeste fremtid. mvh DROPS design

Liliana 23.08.2019 - 10:16:

Liebe Redaktion, würde liebend gerne dieses Model stricken, und wollte das Muster ausdrucken finde aber den Button nicht mehr, und wollte fragen ob das vielleicht an meinem PC liegt. Ich habe viele Ihre Modelle gestrickt und nehme gerne die Anleitung mit für unterwegs, ohne wird es schwierig wenn man nicht in der Nähe des Computers ist. Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen!

DROPS Design 23.08.2019 kl. 12:08:

Liebe Liliana, Drucken können Sie beim drücken den Button (mit Icon Drücker), den finden Sie nach dem Kopftext - neben "Kommentare/FAQ/Lieblingsmodellen". Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marie 19.08.2019 - 18:54:

Pour la légende des diagrammes, le carré avec un trait horizontal ne devrait-il pas être remplacé par un carré avec un trait vertical pour être cohérent avec les diagrammes ?

DROPS Design 20.08.2019 kl. 09:01:

Bonjour Marie, il semble que vous ayez raison, le symbole de la légende va probablement être corrigé, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

Irene Ritter 08.08.2019 - 07:38:

Ein sehr schönes Tuch, werde ich in den nächsten Tagen annadeln.

Johanna 07.08.2019 - 17:06:

Hallo liebes DROPS Team! Die Farbe Haselnuss/9025 gibt es in der aktuellen Farbkarte nicht.. ist das eine neue Farbe? Wann kommen ggf. die neuen Farben? Danke für die Info! Sind wieder so schöne neue Muster dabei!

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 09:46:

Liebe Johanna, ja richtig, es handelt sich um eine neue Farbe, die Ende August ankommen sollte. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kiki 25.06.2019 - 21:35:

Underbart mönster och en underbar färg

Sylvie 10.06.2019 - 20:08:

C'est vraiment un très joli châle, le point est magnifique et bien rendu avec ce point en forme de feuille et la couleur est très belle.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 203-14

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.