DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.75CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lacey Laurels

Knitted hat and shawl in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked with rib and leaf pattern in Fisherman’s rib.

DROPS 203-14
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-874
Yarn group A
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WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
SHAWL: One-size
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm = 70 3/4”.
HAT: S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”/23 5/8”
MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-450 g color 9025, hazelnut

HAT:

SIZES:
S/M – L/XL
Fits head size: Approx. 54/56 – 58/60 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22 3/4”/23 5/8”

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100 g color 9025, hazelnut

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: Length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

SHAWL:
SIZE:
Height: Measured in middle = approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2”.
Width: Measured along top = approx. 195 cm = 70 3/4”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400 g color 9025, hazelnut

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
NOTE: Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.75CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1B and A.3B.
Shawl: See diagrams A.1 to A.8.
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DIAGRAM TIP:
This pattern contains many diagrams; it might be a good idea to cut out all the diagrams and arrange them in the right order (see the order given in the text).

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on hat):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 122 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 12.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together approx. each 11th and 12th stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced on shawl):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly on each side of the middle stitch, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 81 stitches) minus the edge stitches and middle stitch (5 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by 2 ( to find the number of stitches on each side of the middle stitch). Then divide these stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made on each side (e.g. 18) = 2.1. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 2nd stitch. Do not increase over edge stitches or middle stitch.
When decreasing, work approximately all stitches together 2 and 2.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

HAT:
Cast on 120-126 stitches with short circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 5-6 cm = 2”-2 3/8”.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-28 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 132-154 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work A.3B in the round (= 6-7 repeats of 22 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.3B has been completed the piece measures approx. 16-17 cm = 6 1/4”-6 3/4” from the cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round where you increase 12-14 stitches evenly spaced = 144-168 stitches.
Work A.1B. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B decrease 16-24 stitches evenly spaced = 128-144 stitches. Work A.1B one more time in height. AT THE SAME TIME on the last round in A.1B knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 64-72 stitches.
Then work stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME, on every 2nd round, knit all stitches together 2 and 2 until there are 8 stitches left. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27 cm = 10 1/4”-10 5/8” from the top down.

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Due to the number of stitches it might be a good idea to divide the piece onto several needles of the same size.

SHAWL:
Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Alpaca. Knit 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work and increase as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work 2 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over and finish with2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
ROW 3 (= right side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch as far as the middle stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row, 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 4 stitches increased).
ROW 4 (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work stockinette stitch until there are 2 stitches left on the row (yarn overs purled to leave holes), 1 yarn over and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= 2 stitches increased).
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 83 stitches on the needle and the last row was worked from the right side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work the next row in the same way as row 4 (= wrong side) and increase at the same time 17 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (34 stitches increased on row) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 119 stitches on the needle.

Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), work A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 52 stitches (26 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 159 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and at the same time decrease 5 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (10 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 151 stitches.

Work diagrams A.3 and A.4 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.3A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), work A.3C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), work A.4A over 15 stitches, A.3B over 44 stitches (2 times in width), A.4C over 14 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.3 and A.4 remains there are 263 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and, at the same time, increase 43 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (86 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 351 stitches.

Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 168 stitches (84 times in width), work A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 391 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 stitch on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 395 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work the next row from the right side as follows:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), work A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, A.2B over 190 stitches (95 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 435 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and decrease at the same time 11 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (22 stitches decreased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 415 stitches.

Work diagrams A.5 and A.6 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.5A over 14 stitches (1 time in width), work A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.5C over 15 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.6A over 14 stitches, A.5B over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.6C over 15 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.5 and A.6 is finished there are 523 stitches on the row.

Work diagrams A.7 and A.8 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.7A over 18 stitches (1 time in width), A.7B over 32 stitches (1 time in width), A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), work A.7D over 33 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.8A over 32 stitches, A.7C over 176 stitches (8 times in width), A.8C over 33 stitches, A.8D over 18 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.7 and A.8 remain there are 593 stitches on the needle. Work the last row and increase at the same time 72 stitches evenly spaced on each side of the middle stitch (144 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 739 stitches.

Work diagrams A.1 and A.2 as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 362 stitches (181 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 remains there are 779 stitches on the row. Work the last row and increase at the same time 1 on each side of the middle stitch (2 stitches increased evenly + 2 stitches increased in diagrams) = 783 stitches.
Now work A.1 and A.2 one more time in height; i.e. work as follows from the right side:
2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1A over 2 stitches (1 time in width), A.1B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.1C over 3 stitches (1 time in width), 1 stitch in stockinette stitch (= middle stitch), A.2A over 3 stitches, work A.2B over 384 stitches (192 times in width), A.2C over 2 stitches and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the last row in A.1 and A.2 has been completed there are 825 stitches on the row.
The piece measures approx. 65 cm = 25 1/2” measured along the middle stitch. Bind off as described below.

ELASTIC BIND-OFF EDGE:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off with knit from the right side as follows: Knit 2, * insert the left needle in the 2 stitches on the right needle, from left to right and knit them together, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the row. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Fasten strands.

SHAPING TIP:
Moisten the piece and shape to the right measurements.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.09.2019
New charts: A.5A, A.5B, A.5C, A.6A and A.6C.
Updated online: 08.04.2021
Diagram A.1 and A.2 corrected - Symbols in the 2 top rows have been replaced

Diagram

symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit 1 in stitch under the next stitch
symbols = purl 2 twisted together
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over as shown in diagram (leaving a hole)
symbols = increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next row knit or purl yarn over twisted as shown in diagram (avoiding a hole)
symbols = decrease 2 stitches towards the left as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = decrease 2 stitches towards the right as follows: Knit 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = decrease 4 stitches as follows: Slip 3 stitches as if to knit them together, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the 3 slipped stitches over the knitted together stitches (= 4 stitches decreased)
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Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (78)

country flag Matilde wrote:

I diagrammerne A5 og A6 kan jeg ikke få maskeantallet til at gå op. Ifølge opskriften skal der strikkes 14, 176 og 15 masker på den ene side af midt-masken og 14, 176 og 15 masker på den anden side af midt-masken. Når man så vender striktøjet om for at strikke på vrangsiden, er der en maske for meget i begyndelsen og en maske for lidt i enden. I alle andre mønstre i opskriften er diagrammerne spejlet på hver side af midt-masken, men ikke her. Er der noget jeg overser?

20.03.2024 - 11:05

country flag Martina wrote:

Im Diagramm das 7. Symbol

11.01.2024 - 16:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, dieses Symbol finden Sie z.B. in den Diagrammen A.3 bis A.8 beidseitig von den Blättern, hier sollen Sie einen Umschlag stricken, aber den wird dann verschränkt gestrickt, damit kein Loch entsteht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.01.2024 - 07:40

country flag Martina wrote:

In dem Diagramm finde ich ein Symbol (ein schwarz ausgefüllter Kreis in einem Kästchen) welches ich nicht in der Strick Anleitung wiederfinde. Wird dieses nicht in der Strickanleitung verwendet? Danke

10.01.2024 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Martina, meinen Sie das 3. Symbol unter Diagrambeschreibung? das finden Sie in A.3, A.4,A.5 ..; für die Patentmaschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.01.2024 - 07:59

country flag Cristina wrote:

Buondì, non ho ben capito come fare a lavorare con due ferri, dovrei tagliare a metà il lavoro e poi cucire? Grazie

12.12.2023 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiormo Cristina, non è necessario tagliare il lavoro, è semplicemente un consiglio dovuto al numero elevato di maglie: lavorando però con i ferri circolari può allungare i cavi unendo più cavi con gli appositi connettori. Buon lavoro!

21.12.2023 - 08:14

country flag Trui wrote:

De omslagen in rij 2 en 4 heb ik averecht gebreid, en omslagen van naald 1 en 3 heb ik recht gebreid. Hoe worden de omslagen naast de ribbelsteken gebreid? Links en rechts naast de middelste steek van de rij krijg ik een mooi gaatje, maar er zitten ook gaatjes aan beide kanten naast de eerste twee steken (ribbelsteek) van iedere rij. Op de foto zie ik die gaatjes niet terug, hoort dat wel? Ook opvallend: de gaatjes naast de ribbelsteek zijn aan de linkerzijde groter dan rechts. Hoe komt dat?

08.12.2023 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Trui,

Ja, aan het begin van de naald horen ook gaatjes te zitten door de omslagen niet gedraaid te breien. Als je dit niet mooi vindt, kun je die omslagen ook gedraaid breien. Als je een omslag tussen een rechte en een averecht steek maakt, maak je eigenlijk een halve omslag, deze zou je bewust wat losser kunnen maken, zodat alle gaatjes gelijk worden.

10.12.2023 - 16:28

country flag Céline wrote:

Ok merci pour votre réponse, ce qui confirme qu'il y a bien une erreur dans les diagramme A5A-A5B-A5C-A6A-A6C car on ne voit qu'un jeté noir de chaque coté de la pointe (diminution de 4 mailles) au lieu de 2 jetés de chaque côté comme les autres schémas, merci d'en prendre note svp

14.11.2023 - 10:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, les diagrammes sont justes, vous avez 2 ovales blancs + 2 ovales noirs (1 de chaque côté de la diminution de 4 mailles) Pour chacun des derniers rangs d ces diagrammes, vous avez bien 2 jetés blancs pour compenser les triangles noirs et 4 jetés (2 blancs + 2 noirs) pour commencer les diminutions de 2 mailles faites 2 fois. Bon tricot!

14.11.2023 - 11:21

country flag Céline wrote:

Bonjour, en haut des diagrammes A5A,A5B,A5C,A6A,A6C, sur la point de la feuille, j'ai 5 mailles au début mais après les 4 diminutions et les 2 jetés noirs, je me retrouve avec 3mailles et non 5 comme indiqué, du coup je me retrouve avec 2 mailles de moins par motif, pouvez-vous vérifier qu'il n'y a pas d'erreur svp car j'ai recompté et pour mois 5-4dim + 2 jeté= 3, merci

14.11.2023 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, vous devez bien conserver votre nombre de mailles:vous devez avoir 2 jetés + 1 jeté, 1 diminution de 4 mailles, 1 jeté = autrement dit, vous diminuez 4 mailles et vous avez fait 4 jetés, le nombre de mailles reste bien le même. Bon tricot!

14.11.2023 - 10:54

country flag Birthe wrote:

Hallo! Wie werden beim Tuch in Reihe 3 die Umschläge aus Reihe 2 bzw. 4 gestrickt? Rechts, so dass Löcher entstehen oder rechts verschränkt, dass keine Löcher entstehen? Vielen Dank!

15.10.2023 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birthe, die Zunahmen werden glatt rechts gestrickt, links bei den Rückreihen und rechts bei den Hinreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.10.2023 - 09:39

country flag Birthe wrote:

Hallo! Wie werden beim Tuch in Reihe 3 die Umschläge aus Reihe 2 bzw. 4 gestrickt? Rechts, so dass Löcher entstehen oder rechts verschränkt, dass keine Löcher entstehen? Vielen Dank!

15.10.2023 - 10:50

country flag Donatella DeCicco wrote:

Can you please send the written version instead of the chart?

26.09.2023 - 01:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs DeCicco, we only have diagrams to this pattern, but this lesson might help you understanding how to read diagrams. Happy knitting!

26.09.2023 - 11:41