DROPS / 194 / 38

Red Nose Jumper by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with raglan and reindeer motif. Sizes S - XXXL. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-275
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-116-128-142 cm = 36 1/4”-39 3/4”-42 1/2”-45 3/4”-50 3/8”-55 3/4”
Full length: 55-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 5/8”-22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 1/4”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g color 3620, red
(you will need 50 g extra in color 3620 red if you decide not to knit a reindeer on the back)
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 0206, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 0300, beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 0612, medium brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 2923, goldenrod

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: length 60 cm or 80 cm = 24” or 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: length 40 and 60 cm = 16” and 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM = US 6 – for the reindeer’s necklace.

ACCESSORIES:
A small decorative heart, approx. 2 cm = 3/4” in diameter or something similar which can be used as a pendant on the reindeer (it must have a hole through which you can thread a row of chain stitches).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagram A.3 shows a knot (= eyes and snowflakes).
Diagrams A.1 and A.2 (reindeer): The whole diagram is worked in stockinette stitch. Work with 3/5 balls so you avoid long strands on the wrong side. In other words, work with 1 ball red/off white on each side of the sweater and 1 ball of the pattern color in the middle. NOTE: To avoid holes when changing colors, twist the strands together.

INCREASE TIP (for raglan):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work until there are 2 stitches left, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row, purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch: Start 2 stitches before the edge stitch and knit 2 together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Front and back pieces (with or without a reindeer on the back piece) and the sleeves are worked separately, back and forth. This makes working the pattern easier. Then the pieces are sewn together, stitch for stitch along the raglan-increases and sides. The neck is worked in the round and the sweater is decorated with nose, eyes, hair, snowflakes and necklace to finish.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and red. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read description above, on each side. At the same time, on the first row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side for raglan - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 20-21-23-25-27-29 times = 68-72-78-84-90-96 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when you have increased 7-7-8-9-10-10 times on each side and there are 42-44-48-52-56-58 stitches on the needle, work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 0-1-3-5-7-8, work A.1A (= 38 stitches) - read PATTERN above, knit 0-1-3-5-7-8 stitches, 1 yarn over (= increase), knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 44-46-50-54-58-60 stitches. When all the increases to raglan are finished, the piece measures approx. 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”. At the end of the next 2 rows cast on 4-5-5-5-7-9 stitches for the armhole on each side of the piece = 76-82-88-94-104-114 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue with stockinette stitch, pattern and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When A.1A has been completed, work A.1B over A.1A. On the row with an arrow in A.1B change the background color to off white instead of red and the pattern will now be worked over 42 stitches. When A.1B has been completed in height continue with off white, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 25-25-25-25-25-25 cm = 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”. Now increase 16-18-20-22-24-26 stitches evenly on row = 92-100-108-116-128-140 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The front piece measures 51-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 20”-20 1/2”-21 1/4”-22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8” from the neck down. Cut and fasten the strand.

BACK PIECE – WITH REINDEER:
Cast on and work in the same way as the front piece, but work pattern A.2A instead of A.1A and pattern A.2B instead of A.1B. When A.2B has been completed in height, continue with off white, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 25-25-25-25-25-25 cm = 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4” – adjust to match the front piece. Now increase 16-18-20-22-24-26 stitches evenly on row = 92-100-108-116-128-140 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (purl 2, knit 2) until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The back piece measures 51-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 20”-20 1/2”-21 1/4”-22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8” from the neck down. Cut and fasten the strand.

BACK PIECE - WITHOUT REINDEER:
Cast on 28-30-32-34-36-38 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and red. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. At the same time on the first row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side to raglan - remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 20-21-23-25-27-29 times = 68-72-78-84-90-96 stitches. When all the increases to raglan are finished, the piece measures approx. 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”. At the end of the next 2 rows cast on 4-5-5-5-7-9 stitches for the armhole on each side of the piece = 76-82-88-94-104-114 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 18-17-16-15-14-12 cm = 7”-6 3/4”-6 1/4”-6”-5 1/2”-4 3/4” – adjust to after the change in background color on the front piece, continue with off white to finished length. When the piece measures 25-25-25-25-25-25 cm = 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4”- 9 3/4” – adjust to match the front piece, increase 16-18-20-22-24-26 stitches evenly on row = 92-100-108-116-128-140 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 6 cm = 2 3/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The back piece measures 51-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 20”-20 1/2”-21 1/4”-22”-22 3/4”-23 5/8” from the neck down. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 14 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and red. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side - remember INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 19-21-23-24-24-25 times = 52-56-60-62-62-64 stitches. Continue working with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”. Now cast on 4-5-5-5-7-9 new stitches for the armhole at the end of the next 2 rows = 60-66-70-72-76-82 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2” decrease 1 stitch on each side - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2-2-1-1-1 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8” 4-13-15-7-12-14 times and then every 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4” 9-2-1-10-6-6 times = 34-36-38-38-40-42 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 40-39-38-36-34-33 cm = 15 3/4”-15 1/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13”. Now increase 4-6-4-4-6-8 stitches evenly on row = 38-42-42-42-46-50 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2, purl 2) until there is 1 stitch left on the row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl for 4 cm = 1 1/2” - make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeves to the front and back pieces - sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. NOTE! Make sure that the seam is not tight! Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew together the hole under the sleeve.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side 1 stitch in each stitch (but not in the edge stitches on the sides of the pieces) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and red = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches. Knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly on round = 80-84-88-92-96-100 stitches. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight.

NOSE:
Make a pom pom with red of approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4” in diameter. Shape the pom pom into an oval, so that it is approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4» one way and approx. 5 cm = 2” the other way; remember to leave 2 strands to fasten the pom pom with. Place the pom pom on the front of the reindeer’s head, just above the middle of the light beige section – see photo. Thread the strand ends through the garment on each side of one stitch and tie together on the wrong side.

EYES:
Make 2 eyes with medium brown as follows: 1 eye: Cut 3 strands of approx. 40 cm = 15 3/4”. Make 4 knots around a needle size 5 mm = US 8 - see diagram A.3 (i.e. make 3 LOOSE knots, then 1 more knot and tighten the strand on this knot = 1 knot). Make 1 more eye. Place the eyes on the front of the reindeer’s head, just above the light beige section - see photo. Thread the strand ends through the garment on each side of one stitch and tie together on the wrong side.

HAIR:
Fasten 4 fringes for hair both on the on front and back of head.
1 fringe = cut 2 strands medium brown of approx. 8-9 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2”. Lay the 2 strands together, thread them around one stitch at the top of the head, between the beige on the head and the medium brown on the antlers - middle of the head itself. Tie a double knot. Fasten the other fringes in the same way – see photo.

NECKLACE IN FRONT:
Work a row of chain stitches of approx. 18-19 cm = 7”-7 1/2” with hook size 4 mm = US 6 and goldenrod. Thread a red heart or something similar onto the row of chain stitches and tie a knot so that it stays in the middle of the row. Place the necklace across the reindeer’s neck on the front piece. Fasten the strand ends on the wrong side of the garment.

NECKLACE AT BACK:
Work a row of chain stitches of approx. 15 cm = 6” with hook size 4 mm = US 6 and goldenrod. Place the necklace across the reindeer’s neck on the back piece. Fasten the strand ends on the wrong side of the garment.

SNOW:
Make approx. 16 knots with off-white for the snow. 1 knot: Cut 1 strand of approx. 40 cm = 15 3/4”. Make 4 knots around needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 - see A.3 (i.e. make 3 LOOSE knots, make 1 more knot and tighten the strand on this knot = 1 knot). Place the snowflakes on the top section of the yoke, i.e. 4 snowflakes on the front piece, 5 snowflakes on the back piece, 4 snowflakes on the left sleeve and 3 snowflakes on the right sleeve. Thread the strand ends through the garment on each side of one stitch and tie together on the wrong side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= red
= off white
= light beige
= beige
= medium brown
= when the row with an arrow in the diagram has been worked in height, change the background color from red to off white





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 194-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Sima 29.12.2020 - 19:33:

Bonsoir quand vous dites mesurer l’ouvrage désormais à partir d’ici après les augmentations des emmanchures et que vous dites continuez en jersey les A.1a et À.1b et continuez jusqu’à ce que l’ouvrage mesure 25 cm. Pour faire les augmentations est ce que les 25 cm à partir des augmentations des emmanchures ou bien à partir du début 2) qcq Vs voulez dire faire des augmentations à intervalles réguliers merci beaucoup pour votre aide

DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 11:57:

Bonjour Sima, vous mesurez pour le devant à partir des mailles montées pour les emmanchures de chaque côté - cf schéma: le bas du pull mesure 25 cm dans toutes les tailles à partir des emmanchures + les côtes du bas. Après ces 25 cm, vous tricotez 1 rang en augmentant à intervalles réguliers puis continuez en côtes pendant 6 cm. Bon tricot!

Sara 24.11.2020 - 17:34:

Buonasera, X la misura xxl a che ferro comincia il disegno marrone. .. (le corna? )grazie Sara

DROPS Design 24.11.2020 kl. 21:31:

Buonasera Sara, il motivo sono A.1A e A.1B sul davanti e A.2A e A.2B sul dietro per tutte le taglie. Le corna iniziano sul 1° ferro. Buon lavoro!

Lafarida 18.11.2020 - 21:30:

Wieso weicht die Anzahl der Zunahmen bei den Ärmeln von der an Vorder- und Rückseite ab? Bei S z.B. geht die Raglanschrägung auf der Vorderseite über 40 Maschen (20 Zunahmen), bei den Ärmeln aber nur über 38 (19 Zunahmen). Dadurch kann man hier doch überhaupt nicht mehr Masche mit Masche vernähen. Oder habe ich hier etwas falsch verstanden?

DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 10:05:

Liebe Lafarida, es wird unterschiedlich für Vorder- /Rückenseite und Ärmel zugenommen damit die Ärmel nicht so breit sind, aber Länge wird schon stimmen, so können Sie die Ärmel zusammennähen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lis Snedevig Steenberg 16.10.2020 - 17:22:

Hvorfor fremstår munden på drops 194-38 på modellen som hvid mens opskriften siger lys beige

DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 12:48:

Hei Lis. På bildet av reinsdyret ser partiet under snuten som lys beige. Snøen er laget i natur og den nederste delen er strikket i natur og man ser forskjell på fargene. Men ta en titt på fargeinstillingene dine, kanskje de trengs å justeres. mvh DROPS design

Tora Christophersen 26.11.2019 - 22:00:

Jeg strikker 16 masker på 10 cm, men det bliver til 24 pinde i stedet for 20 pinde i højden, før jeg har strikket 10 cm. Kan I give mig vejledning til, hvordan/hvad jeg skal ændre, for at få opskriften til at passe?

DROPS Design 03.12.2019 kl. 14:04:

Hej Tora, Strikker du i DROPS Nepal? Du kan evt prøve at strikke med en pind som er et halvt nummer tykkere. Hvis det bliver et problem til den anden side, så prøve at strikke vrangpinden (eller den side du normalt strikker lidt strammere) med en tykkere pind. God fornøjelse!

Corinne 26.11.2019 - 11:10:

Merci de m'avoir rendu réponse ça va beaucoup m'aider. Cordialement Corinne

Corinne 25.11.2019 - 21:16:

Pour ce modèle est-ce que les aiguilles circulaires sont obligatoires Merci

DROPS Design 26.11.2019 kl. 09:38:

Bonjour Corinne, seul le col se tricotera en rond dans ce modèle; vous pouvez voir les différentes étapes de ce modèles sous le DROPS-Along Christmas 2018. Bon tricot!

Tora 24.11.2019 - 20:30:

Findes der et garnalternativ uden uld? Vil gerne strikke denne model til min datter, som ikke kan tåle uld.

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 08:13:

Hei Tora. Ja, du kan bruke garnet DROPS Paris (100% Bomull). Bare husk å sjekke at strikkefastheten din stemmer med oppskriften. Bruk vår garnkalkulator for å finne ut av garnmengden du må bruke. Den finner du til høyre for bildet/eller under bildet. God Fornøyelse!

Marianne 02.01.2019 - 09:51:

Er Nepal garn nu steget i pris mens jeg venter på svar. Øv øv.

Marianne Ancker 29.12.2018 - 21:23:

Hvor meget mere farve 0100, natur, skal jeg bestille hvis jeg vil forlænge den fra 62 cm til 75 cm str xxl

DROPS Design 04.01.2019 kl. 09:01:

Hei Marianne. Det er ca 14 cm med natur nederst på genseren, og du vil øke lengden med 13 cm, da kan du regne med at du trenger dobbelt så mye garn i natur. God fornøyelse

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