Little Missy Jacket by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket for babies and children with round yoke in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 12 years.
DROPS Children 32-8
DROPS Design: Pattern no li-012-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12) years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152)
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 (200-200-250-250-300-300) g colour 2923, goldenrod
100 (100-100-150-150-150-150) g colour 0100, off white
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM – for stocking stitch on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Coconut NO 516: 5 (6-6-6-7-7-8) items.
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DROPS Design: Pattern no li-012-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12) years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152)
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 (200-200-250-250-300-300) g colour 2923, goldenrod
100 (100-100-150-150-150-150) g colour 0100, off white
-------------------------------------------------------
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM – for stocking stitch on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Coconut NO 516: 5 (6-6-6-7-7-8) items.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.
KNITTING TIP (for bands):
The whole of the band is worked in goldenrod. In other words, use 1 ball for each band where needed (i.e. on the rows where goldenrod is not used in the pattern).
Change strands between band and yoke (to avoid strand-changes on outside of band). When changing strands, twist the two strands together so that the stitches stay together.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches), minus the bands (= 74 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.57. In this example, decrease by knitting together alternately each 9th and 10th stitch and each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.); increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 10th and each 11th stitch (approx.). The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes – NOTE: Do not decrease/increase over the bands.
INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side. Knit until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left in the other side, turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on other side. Continue by working 8 stitches less each time you turn 2 more times in each side, turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row, then purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together the 2nd and 3rd stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm, the next 4 (5-5-5-6-6-7) buttonholes are then worked after approx. every 6 (6-6½-7-6½-7-7) cm.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The yoke is worked first, then it is divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
NECK:
Cast on 84 (88-92-96-100-108-112) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and goldenrod. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, in each side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above and finish after 1 row from the right side.
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Purl 1 row from the right side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and decrease 7 (5-4-1-5-6-10) stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (purl 2 stitches together = 1 stitch decreased) = 77 (83-88-95-95-102-102) stitches.
You can now work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or continue working.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern according to A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on row – Note: Choose diagram for your size (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) repeats of 6 (6-7-7-7-7-7) stitches), work A.2 over the next stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram – read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 187 (203-220-239-251-271-271) stitches on the row. Continue with stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side in golden rod. On the next row from the right side increase 7 (7-10-7-3-0-11) stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 194 (210-230-246-254-271-282) stitches.
When the piece measures 13 (14-15-16-17-18-19) cm mid front (measured without the neck), divide the piece as follows: Work 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle, work 52 (56-62-66-70-75-78) stitches (= back piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle and work the remaining 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece) = 122 (130-142-150-158-167-174) stitches.
BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread 32 (34-37-39-41-43-45) stitches in from each side (= 58 (62-68-72-76-81-84) stitches between marker threads on back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on band. When the piece measures 3 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat the increase when the piece measures 8 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 130 (138-150-158-166-175-182) stitches. When the piece measures 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 14 (14-14-14-14-13-14) stitches on next row from the right side (do not increase over the bands) = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) stitches. Change to needle size 3 mm.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm, then cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole jacket measures approx. 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm, measured from the shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 48 (52-56-60-60-64-66) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches (= mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round with goldenrod. When the sleeve measures 1 cm from where sleeve and body were divided, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2 (2½-2½-2½-3½-3½-3½) cm a total of 6 (6-8-8-8-8-9) times = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. When the sleeve measures 14 (16-21-24-28-31-35) cm from where sleeve and body were divided, change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm or to desired length.
Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures a total of approx. 18 (20-25-28-32-35-39) cm from where sleeve and body were divided.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.
KNITTING TIP (for bands):
The whole of the band is worked in goldenrod. In other words, use 1 ball for each band where needed (i.e. on the rows where goldenrod is not used in the pattern).
Change strands between band and yoke (to avoid strand-changes on outside of band). When changing strands, twist the two strands together so that the stitches stay together.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches), minus the bands (= 74 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.57. In this example, decrease by knitting together alternately each 9th and 10th stitch and each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.); increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 10th and each 11th stitch (approx.). The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes – NOTE: Do not decrease/increase over the bands.
INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side. Knit until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left in the other side, turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on other side. Continue by working 8 stitches less each time you turn 2 more times in each side, turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row, then purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together the 2nd and 3rd stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm, the next 4 (5-5-5-6-6-7) buttonholes are then worked after approx. every 6 (6-6½-7-6½-7-7) cm.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The yoke is worked first, then it is divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
NECK:
Cast on 84 (88-92-96-100-108-112) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and goldenrod. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, in each side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above and finish after 1 row from the right side.
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Purl 1 row from the right side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and decrease 7 (5-4-1-5-6-10) stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (purl 2 stitches together = 1 stitch decreased) = 77 (83-88-95-95-102-102) stitches.
You can now work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or continue working.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern according to A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on row – Note: Choose diagram for your size (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) repeats of 6 (6-7-7-7-7-7) stitches), work A.2 over the next stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram – read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 187 (203-220-239-251-271-271) stitches on the row. Continue with stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side in golden rod. On the next row from the right side increase 7 (7-10-7-3-0-11) stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 194 (210-230-246-254-271-282) stitches.
When the piece measures 13 (14-15-16-17-18-19) cm mid front (measured without the neck), divide the piece as follows: Work 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle, work 52 (56-62-66-70-75-78) stitches (= back piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches on the needle and work the remaining 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece) = 122 (130-142-150-158-167-174) stitches.
BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread 32 (34-37-39-41-43-45) stitches in from each side (= 58 (62-68-72-76-81-84) stitches between marker threads on back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on band. When the piece measures 3 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat the increase when the piece measures 8 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 130 (138-150-158-166-175-182) stitches. When the piece measures 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 14 (14-14-14-14-13-14) stitches on next row from the right side (do not increase over the bands) = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) stitches. Change to needle size 3 mm.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm, then cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole jacket measures approx. 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm, measured from the shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 48 (52-56-60-60-64-66) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches (= mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round with goldenrod. When the sleeve measures 1 cm from where sleeve and body were divided, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2 (2½-2½-2½-3½-3½-3½) cm a total of 6 (6-8-8-8-8-9) times = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. When the sleeve measures 14 (16-21-24-28-31-35) cm from where sleeve and body were divided, change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm or to desired length.
Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures a total of approx. 18 (20-25-28-32-35-39) cm from where sleeve and body were divided.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Updated online: 21.01.2019
Correction - BODY: change to needle size 3 mm before working the rib edge at the bottom.
Correction - BODY: change to needle size 3 mm before working the rib edge at the bottom.
Diagram
|
= goldenrod |
|
= off white |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour in the pattern stripe; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 293 catalogues and 10968 patterns - 10968 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour, pour mon premier jacquard, je me lance dans le modèle DROPS Children 32-8. Je comprends le diagramme A1 mais ne sais pas quand tricoter le diagramme A2. Où ce diagramme doit il être tricoté ? Merci pour vos explications et vos vidéos qui m'aident à progresser pas à pas.
25.04.2023 - 10:33DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Ginette, vu sur l'endroit (entre les mailles de bordure des devant)s, vous répétez le diagramme A.1 en largeur et terminez le rang par la maille de A.2 (avant les mailles de bordure devant) pour que le motif soit symétrique (sur l'envers (entre les mailles de bordure des devants), commencez par A.2 et répétez ensuite A.1 en lisant ce diagramme de gauche à droite). Bon tricot!
25.04.2023 kl. 14:45Jeg kan ikke få mål til at passe. Den mindste str. er bærestykket 13 cm + 11 cm fra deling under ærmerne + 4 cm rib. Det giver 28 cm + 3 cm halskant, men diagrammet siger 34cm. Er der noget jeg har overset eller udeladt?
21.04.2023 - 17:04DROPS Design answered:
Hei Marianne. Legg til forhøyningen (kun bak), vrangbord til hals, bærestykket, bol og vrangbord nederst = 3+3+13+11+4= 34. mvh DROPS Design
24.04.2023 kl. 13:50Rettelse til mitt spørsmål: det skal stå: på femte pinne er det økning etter hver 8. maske (ikke hver 8. maske)..
03.02.2023 - 12:00Strikker str 2 år. Har litt vanskeligheter med å forstå mønsteret med økninger. Skal økningene gjøres i hver rapport? Det står at økningene gjøres i bunnfargen, men i diagrammet er det i mønsterfarge, f.eks femte pinne står det økning hver 8. maske? Da får jeg det ikke til å stemme. Takknemlig for svar!
03.02.2023 - 00:21DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne-Mari, ja du øker på hver rapport. På 5.pind øker du i natur. Du øker i samme farve som du har strikket masken før :)
03.02.2023 kl. 11:45Hvordan skal mønsteret strikkes i diagrammet; fra venstre mot høyre eller motsatt? Både fra retten og vrangen? Skal diagram A.2 bare strikkes på retten?
01.02.2023 - 16:45DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anne-Mari, Diagrammene leses høyre til venstre fra retten og venstre til høyre fra vrangen. Dette gjelder for A.2 også. God fornøyelse!
02.02.2023 kl. 06:54Jeg har brugt den opskrift til størrelse 5/6 år. En god opskrift, har strikket en dejlig trøje. Den eneste bemærkning er angående garn forbrug. Okkerfarvegarn var beregnet rigtig, men naturfarvegarn har jeg brugt kun1 nogle, mens der er angivet 3 nogle.
27.10.2022 - 14:05Som jeg læser arbejdsbeskrivelsen til Little Missy strikkes trøjen frem og tilbage, med 5 kantmasker i retstrik. I mønstret er der flere steder en hel pind med en farve, efterfulgt af en hel pind med den anden farve. Hvordan strikker jeg de efterfølgende pinde med 2 farver uden at bryde garnet? Venlig hilsen Eva
20.10.2022 - 20:29DROPS Design answered:
Hej Eva, du kan eventuelt strikke fra den side tråden er, men du er naturligvis nødt til at have trådene i samme side når du strikker en pind med tofarvet mønster :)
25.10.2022 kl. 12:01Same as Chris wrote 25/01/22, when I increase stitches, pattern gets out of synch’. I have started, unpicked, tried a different way more times than I care to mention. I have read the ‘how to read pattern’ over and over and well used to working with colours but just cannot work out the increases to fit with pattern. I’ve repeated the first set of 7 stitches x12, then increase again a few rows later to repeat pattern every 8 and that’s where it goes to pot. Any advice PLEASE.
04.09.2022 - 16:44DROPS Design answered:
Hi Lorraine, All the increases are included in the diagram A.1, at the beginning and end of each repeat. This means that the main body of the pattern is not affected by the increases and you have the same number of repeats of A.1 throughout the yoke, which in your size is 12, (the number of stitches within each repeat does increase though). Hope this helps and happy knitting!
05.09.2022 kl. 06:54Jag har en fråga ang rättelse av mönstret. Var i oket ska rättelsen ang maskantalet vara? Jag har inte lyckats lista ut det. Uppdaterad online: 21.01.2019 Rättelse - OK: = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) maskor.
12.02.2022 - 16:32DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bitte. Texten i mönstret är redan rättad så följ bara beskrivningen så blir det rätt. (Det är här det har rättats: " När arbetet mäter 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm från delningen, ökas det 14 (14-14-14-14-13-14) maskor på nästa varv från rätsidan (det ökas inte över framkanterna) = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) maskor. ") Mvh DROPS Design
14.02.2022 kl. 12:23Uppdaterad online: 21.01.2019\r\nRättelse - OK: = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) maskor. Byt till rundsticka 3.\r\nVar i mönstret till oket ska det nya maskantalet stå? Jag har räknat igenom maskantalet till oket i mönstret och kan inte lista ut det. Med de siffror som finns i det ursprungliga mönstret verkar mönstret stämma, men eftersom ni gjort en rättelse så är det väl inte så.
12.02.2022 - 15:53