Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (US/in)#innercirclesweater
DROPS design: Pattern u-869
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= beige brown | |
= light grey green | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. | |
= knitting direction | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch and pass slipped stitch over | |
= knit 2 together |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Inner Circle |
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Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted in the round with Nordic pattern.
DROPS 196-23 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: Sweater: See diagram A.1. Hat: See diagrams A.2 and A.3. Choose diagram for desired pattern. Work all stitches in stockinette stitch. KNITTING TIP (applies to multi-colored pattern): To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight. ELEVATION: Insert a marker thread in first stitch on round (= mid back). Begin from right side and knit 11-11-12-13-13-14 stitches past marker thread, turn, tighten yarn and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42, turn, tighten yarn and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 55-55-60-65-65-70, turn, tighten yarn and purl 66-66-72-78-78-84, turn and knit until beginning of round. DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly): To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 108 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 16) = 6.8. In this example work approx. every 6th and 7th stitch together. When increasing make 1 yarn over after every approx. 7th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body): Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. NECK EDGE: Cast on 108-116-120-124-128-132 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light gray green. Knit 1 round. Switch to beige brown. Now work rib = knit 2/purl 2 until piece measures 3 cm / 1". Knit 1 round while decreasing 16-19-19-20-20-20 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 92-97-101-104-108-112 stitches. Knit 1 round while increasing 20-22-32-36-39-42 stitches evenly = 112-119-133-140-147-154 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION. YOKE: Now work pattern A.1 (= 7 stitches) 16-17-19-20-21-22 repetitions on round (begin at your size in diagram) - read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue pattern in the round like this. When entire A.1 has been worked vertically there is 288-306-342-360-378-396 stitches on round. Piece should now measure 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm / 9"-9⅜"-9⅜"-9⅜"-9⅜"-9⅜". Size S is now done, continue with next section below. Continue as follows in size M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL: Size M, L and XL: Work in stockinette stitch with beige brown until piece measures 25-27-28 cm / 9 ¾"-10⅝"-11" from cast-on edge, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-24-24 cm / 9⅜"-9⅜"-9⅜" increase 14-6-20 stitches evenly = 320-348-380 stitches. Continue with next section below. Size XXL and XXXL: Work in stockinette stitch with beige brown until piece measures 30-32 cm / 11 ¾"-12 ½" from cast-on edge, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-24 cm / 9⅜"-9⅜" increase 11-14 stitches evenly and when piece measures 27-29 cm / 10⅝"-11⅜" increase 11-14 stitches evenly = 400-424 stitches. Continue with next section. ALL SIZES: Work next row as follows: Work 42-46-50-56-60-65 stitches as before (= half back piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 84-92-100-112-120-130 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 42-46-50-56-60-65 stitches as before (= left front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! BODY: = 184-200-220-244-264-288 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under sleeve in each side = 92-100-110-122-132-144 stitches between marker threads on both front and back piece. Work stockinette stitch in the round with beige brown. When piece measures 2 cm / ¾" from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6th row (approx. 2 cm / ¾") 10 times in total in each side = 224-240-260-284-304-328 stitches. When piece measures 24-24-24-25-25-25 cm / 9⅜"-9⅜"-9⅜"-9 ¾"-9 ¾"-9 ¾" from division, knit 1 round while increasing 60-64-68-72-76-84 stitches evenly = 284-304-328-356-380-412 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight bind-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (bind off yarn overs as stitches). Sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from shoulder and down. SLEEVE: Slip the 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6/double pointed needles and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (= mid under sleeve). Work stockinette stitch in the round with beige brown. When piece measures 2 cm / ¾" from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every approx. 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 12-15-18-19-20-21 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. When sleeve measures 38-36-35-34-33-31 cm / 14⅞"-14⅛"-13 ¾"-13⅜"-13"-12⅛" from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round while increasing 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches evenly = 54-60-64-68-72-76 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight bind-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (bind off yarn overs as stitches). Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-38-37-35 cm / 16 ½"-15 ¾"-15 ¼"-14⅞"-14 ½"-13 ¾" from division and down. Work the other sleeve the same way. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT: Worked in the round on circular needle. Switch to double pointed needles when needed. There are 2 different diagrams for hat. If you want pattern with a big tree work according to diagram A.2 and if you want the pattern with a small tree work according to diagram A.3. Cast on 124 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with beige brown. Knit 1 round. Switch to light gray green. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½". Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, knit 1 round while decreasing 16 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly) = 108 stitches. Now work pattern A.2 or A.3 – choose diagram for large or small tree (= 18 stitches) 6 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When entire A.2/A.3 have been worked vertically, there are 12 stitches on row. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches on needle, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24 cm/9½". |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (62)
Christine wrote:
Bonjour. Je réalise le pull Drops 196-23, et je me demande pourquoi après les côtes 2/2 du col il faut faire des diminutions puis le rang juste après des augmentations ? Merci de votre réponse
21.03.2024 - 09:02DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Christine, on procède ainsi pour mieux marquer le col qui sera ainsi plus joli. Bon tricot!
21.03.2024 - 16:08Barbora Masaříková wrote:
Dobrý den, mohu tento svetr plést z příze Drops Big Merino, pokud chci svetr teplejší? Pokud ano, navýší se spotřeba (gramáž?) vlny? Případně o kolik prosím? Moc děkuji za odpověď.
11.12.2023 - 22:18Yvette wrote:
Waarom wordt er in de 1 ste nld na het halsboord 20 st verdeeld geminderd en in de nld daarna 36 gemeerderd? Is alleen 16 st meerderen niet hetzelfde?
02.12.2023 - 10:11DROPS Design answered:
Dag Yvette,
Dit wordt gedaan om de halsboord elastischer te maken.
02.12.2023 - 17:41Gita Poulsen wrote:
Der er en fejl i opskriften, på den omgang hvor man sætter masker af til ærmer. De sidste 50 m bliver kaldt “venstre forstykke”, men det må jo være bagstykket indtil maskemarkør for arbejdets start. Ellers rigtig god og letlæselig opskrift. Mvh
25.11.2023 - 08:55Kerstin Andersson wrote:
Hur byter jag färg när det är mönster utan att det blir trassel mellan garnnystanen
31.08.2023 - 17:01DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kerstin, det löser du efter ett par varv :)
08.09.2023 - 15:23Stina Mikkelsen wrote:
Hvilken sværdhedsgrad har denne bluse ? Jeg har strikke et års tid - ialt 2 veste og to sweatere. Men endnu ikke med mønster....
27.07.2023 - 14:48DROPS Design answered:
Hei Stina. Da kan du fint prøve deg på denne :) Det vil du greie. Et tips: Bruk maskemarkører/ merketråd mellom hver rapport av diagrammet, så får du en bedre oversikt etter hver omgang og kan kontrollsjekke maskeantallet med de økningene du gjør i diagrammet. mvh DROPS Design
27.07.2023 - 14:52Nadia wrote:
Bonjour, je voudrais savoir si je peu détricoter mon col pour refaire sans la rehausse , car mon tricot est de travers . Merci
28.04.2023 - 20:14DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Nadia, si vous préférez ne pas tricoter la rehausse, détricotez jusqu'au tour d'augmentations et passez à l'empiècement directement. Bon tricot!
02.05.2023 - 07:51Manon wrote:
196-23 COL (XL) - monter 124m \r\nBonjour - Quel est le but de diminuer 20 m ( = 104) , tricoter 1 tour pour ensuite immediatement aug de 36m au rang suivant (=140). ?\r\nEtape semble superflue sur 2 rangs consecutifs , pourquoi ne pas simplement passer de 124 a 140?\r\nMerci de clarifier svp.
19.03.2023 - 02:25DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Manon, c'est un choix de la styliste pour que le col rende mieux. Bon tricot!
20.03.2023 - 09:38Bjørg-Ida Alexandersen wrote:
Strikker «Inner circle»i str. M. I oppskriften er det lagt inn en økning først på 40m på bolen fra ermhull og før vrangbord ytterligere 64m. Dette ble altfor mange masker, og genseren skrådde bare utover i en merkelig fasong. Resulterte i at alt måtte rekkes opp. Strikket på nytt uten økning. Nederst på ermet før vrangbord er det også lagt inn ei økning på 14 masker noe som gjør denne altfor vid! Har strikket flere av deres gensere, men ikke opplevd en så «rar» oppskrift.
18.03.2023 - 08:55Päivi wrote:
Ohjeen puserossa lisätään runsaasti silmukoita kainaloiden ja helman väliin, miksi? Onko puseron mallin tarkoitus olla vartalonmyötäinen? Suurimman koon mittakuvassa on 9 cm ero puolessa paidassa eli ympärysmitassa 18 cm ero.
16.03.2023 - 10:01DROPS Design answered:
Hei, silmukoita lisätään, jotta puserosta tulisi A-muotoinen. Eli puseron alaosa on yläosaa leveämpi.
20.03.2023 - 17:05