DROPS / 196 / 23

Inner Circle by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL Knitted hat in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted in the round with Nordic pattern.

DROPS design: Pattern u-869
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Head circumference: 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour no 54, beige brown
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour 69, light grey green
Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour 07, light brown
150-200-200-200-200-250 g colour 15, light grey green

YARN FOR JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour no 54, beige brown
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour 69, light grey green
Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g colour 07, light brown
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 15, light grey green

YARN FOR HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: approx. 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g colour 54, beige brown
100 g colour 69, light grey green
Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g colour 07, light brown
100 g colour 15, light grey green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JUMPER:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm for stocking stitch
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm: for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm for stocking stitch
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 40 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Karisma 21, 16
B) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 5, 13
C) DROPS Karisma 56, 11
D) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 6, 7
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagram A.1.
Hat: See diagrams A.2 and A.3. Choose diagram for desired pattern.
Work all stitches in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP (applies to multi-coloured pattern):
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

ELEVATION:
Insert a marker thread in first stitch on round (= mid back). Begin from right side and knit 11-11-12-13-13-14 stitches past marker thread, turn, tighten yarn and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42, turn, tighten yarn and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 55-55-60-65-65-70, turn, tighten yarn and purl 66-66-72-78-78-84, turn and knit until beginning of round.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 108 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 16) = 6.8. In this example work approx. every 6th and 7th stitch together.
When increasing make 1 yarn over after every approx. 7th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 108-116-120-124-128-132 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with light grey green. Knit 1 round. Switch to beige brown. Now work rib = knit 2/purl 2 until piece measures 3 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 16-19-19-20-20-20 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 92-97-101-104-108-112 stitches. Knit 1 round while increasing 20-22-32-36-39-42 stitches evenly = 112-119-133-140-147-154 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION.

YOKE:
Now work pattern A.1 (= 7 stitches) 16-17-19-20-21-22 repetitions on round (begin at your size in diagram) - read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue pattern in the round like this. When entire A.1 has been worked vertically there is 288-306-342-360-378-396 stitches on round. Piece should now measure 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm.
Size S is now done, continue with next section below.
Continue as follows in size M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Size M, L and XL:
Work in stocking stitch with beige brown until piece measures 25-27-28 cm from cast-on edge, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-24-24 cm increase 14-6-20 stitches evenly = 320-348-380 stitches. Continue with next section below.
Size XXL and XXXL:
Work in stocking stitch with beige brown until piece measures 30-32 cm from cast-on edge, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-24 cm increase 11-14 stitches evenly and when piece measures 27-29 cm increase 11-14 stitches evenly = 400-424 stitches. Continue with next section.

ALL SIZES:
Work next row as follows: Work 42-46-50-56-60-65 stitches as before (= half back piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 84-92-100-112-120-130 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 42-46-50-56-60-65 stitches as before (= left front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 184-200-220-244-264-288 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under sleeve in each side = 92-100-110-122-132-144 stitches between marker threads on both front and back piece.
Work stocking stitch in the round with beige brown. When piece measures 2 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6th row (approx. 2 cm) 10 times in total in each side = 224-240-260-284-304-328 stitches. When piece measures 24-24-24-25-25-25 cm from division, knit 1 round while increasing 60-64-68-72-76-84 stitches evenly = 284-304-328-356-380-412 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 4 mm/double pointed needles and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (= mid under sleeve). Work stocking stitch in the round with beige brown. When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every approx. 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 12-15-18-19-20-21 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. When sleeve measures 38-36-35-34-33-31 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round while increasing 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches evenly = 54-60-64-68-72-76 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-38-37-35 cm from division and down. Work the other sleeve the same way.

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.
There are 2 different diagrams for hat. If you want pattern with a big tree work according to diagram A.2 and if you want the pattern with a small tree work according to diagram A.3.

Cast on 124 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with beige brown. Knit 1 round. Switch to light grey green. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, knit 1 round while decreasing 16 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly) = 108 stitches. Now work pattern A.2 or A.3 – choose diagram for large or small tree (= 18 stitches) 6 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When entire A.2/A.3 have been worked vertically, there are 12 stitches on row. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches on needle, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24 cm.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.09.2018
Correction: INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):..Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread
Updated online: 14.09.2018
ALL SIZES: Work next row as follows

Diagram

= beige brown
= light grey green
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
= knitting direction
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch and pass slipped stitch over
= knit 2 together



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

Tina 01.11.2020 - 21:48:

Bei der Passe bei einer Länge von 24 cm steht 14-6-20 Maschen zunehmen, sodass es 320-348-380 Maschen ergibt...sollte das für M-L-XL 14-18-20 Maschen heißen, oder stimmt es so, wie es beschrieben ist???

DROPS Design 02.11.2020 kl. 09:20:

Liebe Tina, so stimmt es, nach A.1 sind es 306-342-360 Maschen in M-L-XL und es werden 14-6-20 Maschen zugenommen = jetzt haben Sie 320-348-380 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anna 08.09.2020 - 18:09:

Üdv! Ez nem kérdés, inkább hibajelzés, amit egy ideje már észrevettem és úgy gondoltam, hogy ideje volna jelezni... Bocsánat, hogy itt írom, de sehol nem találtam kapcsolattartási e-mail címet. "Zegyen #dropsdesign taget a képekre a szoliális médiában" Zegyen-tegyen. Van rá lehetőség, hogy ezt az elütést kicseréljék? Elnézést kérek a zaklatásért! Köszönöm a csodás mintákat!

DROPS Design 17.09.2020 kl. 05:24:

Kedves Anna! Köszönjük a levelét, és a hibajelzést is, egyeztetek arról, hogyan lehet javítani az elütést. Bízom benne, hogy minél előbb sikerül, A magyar oldalon talált hibát leggyorsabban a Facebook "Magyar DROPS csoport"-jában tud jelezni - magyarul. A csoportba jelentkezésnél ind a három kérdésre válaszolni kell. Köszönettel, és kívánok további sikeres kézimunkázást!

Maren 21.04.2020 - 11:32:

Jeg er ferdig med mønsteret på genseren. Står at arbeide skal måle 24 cm. Mitt måler 35 fra oppleggskanten. Så antar at jeg må ta opp å begynne på nytt. Bør jeg gå ned en hel størrelse på og bruke 2 og 3 istede for 3 og 4?

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 11:23:

Hej Maren, din strikkeprøve skal have 21 masker i bredden og 28 pinde i højden på 10x10 cm. Hvis prøven bliver for stor skal du prøve med mindre pinde. God fornøjelse!

Mette Uth Sørensen 18.04.2020 - 20:38:

Jeg er ved strikke denne flotte trøje, og er kommet til den nederste Rib-kant. Jeg undrer mig meget over at der skal tage 60 masker ud?? Bliver trøjen ikke alt for vid? Det virker i forvejen som en bred trøje, så jeg synes det vil passe den godt at den bliver mere snæver forneden. Er der en mulighed at der skal tages 60 masker ind istedet?

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 14:46:

Hej Mette, vi har valgt at tage ud så ribkanten ikke trækker arbejdet for meget sammen. Du behøver ikke tage ud, hvis du bare vil have en smallere ribkant end selve trøjen. God fornøjelse!

Mia 31.03.2020 - 19:30:

Fantastiskt snygg tröja. Skulle vilja veta vad färgen heter på tröjan? Skulle vilja sticka den.\r\nMvh Mia

Lucia 22.03.2020 - 21:14:

Il mio inizio giro non è il centro sotto della manica. Questo perché, quando ho iniziato la manica, ho rimesso sui ferri le maglie in sospeso e poi ho ripreso le maglie avviate sotto la manica. Perciò il mio giro inizia con la prima maglia che era stata messa in sospeso.

Lucia 22.03.2020 - 16:32:

Sto realizzando la manica. L'inizio del giro è molto vicino al centro sotto la manica, quindi nel fare le diminuzioni dopo il segno dovrò accavallare punti già facenti parte del nuovo giro. Va bene lo stesso? Grazie mille!

DROPS Design 22.03.2020 kl. 21:03:

Buongiorno Lucia. Nella manica, l'inizio del giro corrisponde al centro, sotto la manica ed è corretto che dopo il segno, le diminuzioni siano sulle maglie del nuovo giro. Buon lavoro!

Inger Simonsen Danmark 22.03.2020 - 12:39:

Skal der virkelig tages ind efter hals ribben for derefter at tage ud?\r\nDer virker underligt.

DROPS Design 23.03.2020 kl. 15:52:

Hei Inger. Det er riktig slik det står i oppskriften. Da får plagget en bedre hold/vil ikke utvide seg ved bruk. God Fornøyelse!

Johanne Marie Jacobsen 27.12.2019 - 19:32:

Hoof lenge Varner et gavekort

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 11:22:

Hei Johanne. Vi har ingen gavekort, du må kontakte den butikken som har utsendt gavekortet om hvor lenge det er gyldig! mvh DROPS design

Liz 14.12.2019 - 12:28:

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