DROPS / 196 / 22

Inner Circle Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-150
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color 07, light brown
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color 15, light grayish green
Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 54, beige brown
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color 69, light gray green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM / US 6: for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM / US 6: length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5: for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM / US 2.5: length 80 cm/32" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 7 items in all sizes.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Karisma 21, 16
B) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 5, 13
C) DROPS Karisma 56, 11
D) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 6, 7
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. All stitches worked in stockinette stitch.
The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

KNITTING TIP (for multi-colored pattern):
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

ELEVATION:
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the work (=mid back) like this: S: in the 62nd stitch, M: after 65 stitches, L: after 72 stitches, XL: in the 76th stitch, XXL: after 79 stitches, XXXL: after 83 stitches. Start from the wrong side and knit until you have knitted 12-12-13-14-14-15 stitches past the marker thread, turn, tighten the strand and knit 24-24-26-28-28-30 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and purl 36-36-39-42-42-45 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 48-48-52-56-56-60 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and purl 60-60-65-70-70-75 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 72-72-78-84-84-90 stitches.Turn, tighten strand and purl to end of row (the band is knitted).

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 124 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 18) = 6.3.In this example, knit each 5th and 6th stitch together (approx.) and do not decrease over the bands.
When increasing make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch and do not increase over the bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
All increases are made from the right side!
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Knit from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole. 
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½-2 cm. Then work the next 6 buttonholes with approx. 7½ -8-8-8-8½-9 cm between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 120-128-132-136-140-144 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and light grayish green. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Change to light brown. Now work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2, work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib until the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side. Work BUTTONHOLE on right band – read description above! Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 18-21-21-21-21-21 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 102-107-111-115-119-123 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 21-23-33-36-39-42 stitches evenly on row = 123-130-144-151-158-165 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. For a better fit you can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – read ELEVATION. 

YOKE:
Now work pattern as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 16-17-19-20-21-22 repeats of 7 stitches), A.2 (= 1 stitch), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch - read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue this pattern. When A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 299-317-353-371-389-407 stitches on the needle.
The piece should now measure 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm / 9"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8" from the cast on edge.
Size S is now finished – Continue with ALL SIZES.
In sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL continue working as follows:
Sizes M, L and XL:
Continue working stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and with light brown until the piece measures 25-27-28 cm / 9 ¾"-10 5/8"-11" from the cast-on edge, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 24-24-24 cm / 9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8", increase 13-5-19 stitches evenly on row = 330-358-390 stitches. Continue with ALLSIZES.
Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Continue working stockinette stitch and with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and with light brown until the piece measures 30-32 cm / 11 ¾"-12 ½" from the cast-on edge, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 24-24 cm / 9 3/8"-9 3/8" increase 11-14 stitches evenly on row and when the piece measures 27-29 cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8" increase 10-13 stitches evenly on row = 410-434 stitches. Continue with ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
The next row is worked from the wrong side as follows: Work 47-51-55-61-65-70 stitches as before (= right front piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 85-92-100-112-120-130 stitches (= back piece), place the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 47-51-55-61-65-70 stitches as before (= left front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 195-210-230-254-274-298 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 51-55-60-66-71-77 stitches in from each side = 93-100-110-122-132-144 stitches between marker threads on the back piece. Continue with stockinette stitch and light brown and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6th row (approx. every 2 cm / 3/4'') a total of 10 times in each side = 235-250-270-294-314-338 stitches on the needle. When the piece measures 24-24-24-25-25-25 cm / 9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9 ¾"-9 ¾"-9 ¾" from the division, purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 57-62-66-74-78-82 stitches on row = 292-312-336-368-392-420 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work rib from the wrong side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2, work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-68-74-78-80-82 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (= mid under sleeve). Work stockinette stitch in the round with light brown. When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round a total of 12-15-18-19-20-21 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. When the sleeve measures 38-36-35-34-33-31 cm / 14 7/8"-14 1/8"-13 ¾"-13 3/8"-13"-12 1/8" from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke), knit 1 round where you increase 12-14-16-18-20-22 stitches evenly on round = 54-60-64-68-72-76 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-38-37-35 cm / 16 ½"-15 ¾"-15 ¼"-14 7/8"-14 ½"-13 ¾" from the division and down
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.09.2018
Correction: INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):..Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread
Updated online: 31.10.2018
Correction: Elevation has been amended to center it mid-back

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= light brown
= light greyish green
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Marianne Fosseli Nygaard 14.11.2019 - 12:50:

Hei. Hvorfor økes det før vrangbord på armene ? Mvh Marianne.

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 13:55:

Vrangborden strikkes på mindre pinner og vrangborden trekker seg sammen, derfor har design valgt å ta et antall masker ut. God fornøyelse!

Antje 31.10.2019 - 13:53:

Hallo,ich verstehe die letzte Zunahme beim stricken der Passe für Gr.M nicht,wenn das Muster fertig gestrickt ist ,habe ich 317 Maschen auf der Nadel,bei einer Länge von 24 cm sollen 5 Maschen zugenommen werden ,so dass am Ende 358 Maschen auf der Nadel sind.Selbst wenn ich ich 13,5 und 19 Maschen zunehmen würde ,käme ich nicht auf 358 Maschen.Über Hilfe oder eine für mich verständliche Erläuterung würde ich mich sehr freuen.Vielen Dank.

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 14:11:

Liebe Antje, für Größe M wird es 13 Maschen zugenommen, so haben Sie 317 + 13 = 330 Maschen. (Größe L hat: 353 + 5= 358 M). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mønster A1 12.08.2019 - 20:39:

Skal begynne å strikke mønster A1 nå, men er litt usikker på hvordan jeg skal forholde meg til mønsteret. Under forklaring til oppskriften står det; "alle masker strikkes i glattstrikk. Diagrammet viser alle pinnene i mønsteret sett fra retten". Betyr det store mellom alle disse radene skal det strikkes en pinne med vrangmasker? Får det ikke til å stemme med bildet av modellen.

DROPS Design 20.08.2019 kl. 09:51:

Hej. Diagrammet visar alla pinner, annenhver pinne i diagrammet sticka i rätmaskor och annenhver i vrangmasker så att det blir glattstrikk. Lycka till!

Lina 20.03.2019 - 09:54:

Bonjour, pour l'empiècement, quand vous dite que l'ouvrage devrait mesurer 24cm, vous prenez la mesure où ? au milieu du dos ou sur la bordure ? car avec la rehausse, ça ne donneras pas la même chose... Merci de votre aide

DROPS Design 20.03.2019 kl. 13:30:

Bonjour Lina, les mesures sont prises le long du devant, depuis le rang de montage. Bon tricot!

Anne 16.03.2019 - 13:32:

Om knapphålen ska vara på höger framkant kan man väl inte göra dem i slutet av räta varvet. Blir inte det vänster framkant? Tänker jag fel?

DROPS Design 18.03.2019 kl. 11:59:

Hej. Du avmaskar för knapphål i slutet av varvet på rätsidan och då hamnar knapphålen på höger framkant (eftersom koftan stickas uppifrån och ner). Lycka till!

Tiina Jokiniemi 18.02.2019 - 06:46:

Mikä idea on pääntien reunuksessa että ensin kavennetaan ja sitten lisätän silmukoita käytännössä sama määrä?

Cecilie 07.02.2019 - 14:15:

Hvis jeg gerne vil strikke denne cardigan uden farvemønster, hvor meget garn skal jeg så beregne i grundfarven? Jeg skal strikke XXXL

DROPS Design 07.02.2019 kl. 15:49:

Hej Cecilie, Du skal nu nok bruge samme antal nøgler (det er muligt at du kan spare 1, men det er jo synd at få for lidt garn) God fornøjelse!

Marja De Haan 17.01.2019 - 12:21:

Dank voor het snelle antwoord, maar ik zou het graag rond willen breien en dan doorknippen, kan dat ook met dit patroon? En hoe kan ik dat dan doen. Alvast bedankt

Marja De Haan 16.01.2019 - 18:21:

Kan dit vest ook rond gebreid worden? Hoe kan ik dat het beste doen? Brei meestal van beneden naar boven, dus dit zou de eerste keer top down worden. Hoop op een antwoord. Dank je wel alvast.

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 09:47:

Dag Marja,

Dit vest wordt inderdaad in de rondte gebreid op de rondbreinaald van boven naar beneden. Omdat het een vest is met een sluiting midden voor brei je heen en weer op de rondbreinaald. Rechte naalden zijn niet geschikt voor dit patroon, omdat je anders in de knel komt met de steken op het moment dat de mouwen en het lijf van elkaar gescheiden worden.

Karin 17.10.2018 - 21:45:

Kanske har jag orangutangarmar, men 37 cm ärm räckte mig bara till just under armbågen. 56 cm var mer lagom.

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