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Diamond Delight by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL

Keywords: assembly free, colorwork, long sleeves, nordic, round neck, round yoke, sweater, top down

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DROPS 196-15
DROPS design: Pattern ai-146
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 02, wheat
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 14, heather

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9, length 40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'' for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 4.5 mm / US 7, length 80 cm/32" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 		from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 8) = 9.5. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 9th and 10th stitch. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work pattern in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between sleeves and body as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 8 stitches increased on round). On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. After yoke work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with heather. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm / 1''. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 84-88-92-100-104-108 stitches. Switch to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid back. Work A.1 in the round (= 21-22-23-25-26-27 repetitions of 4 stitches) - read PATTERN and KNITTING TIP above. Continue A.1 as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked, there are 252-264-276-300-312-324 stitches on round and piece measures approx. 23 cm from cast-on edge mid front.

SIZE S:
Continue with stockinette stitch and wheat without increases until piece measures 24 cm from cast-on edge mid front.

SIZE M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL:
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece without working the stitches first:
Insert first marker thread after the first 40-41-45-48-52 stitches (= half back piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 52-56-60-60-58 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 80-82-90-96-104 stitches (= front piece), and insert 4th marker thread after the next 52-56-60-60-58 stitches (= sleeve), 40-41-45-48-52 stitches remain on round after last marker (= half back piece). Work in stockinette stitch with wheat in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on first round begin increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Increase for raglan every 4th round 1-2-2-3-4 times in total. After last increase for raglan there are 272-292-316-336-356 stitches on needle. Continue with stockinette stitch without increases until piece measures 26-27-29-31-33 cm / 10 ¼"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8"-13" from cast-on edge mid front.

ALL SIZES:
Then work with wheat until finished measurements. Work next round in stockinette stitch as follows: Work 38-41-43-47-51-56 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 50-54-60-64-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 76-82-86-94-102-112 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 50-54-60-64-66-66 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 38-41-43-47-51-56 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 164-176-188-204-224-244 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches that were cast on under sleeve in one of the sides and begin round from here. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 28-28-29-29-29-29 cm / 11"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/8" from division, work 1 round while increasing 28-28-32-32-36-40 stitches evenly = 192-204-220-236-260-284 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 3 cm / 1''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight bind-off edge use needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9). Sweater measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 50-54-60-64-66-66 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on circular needle/double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 56-60-68-72-76-76 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm/1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½" 10-12-15-16-17-16 times in total = 36-36-38-40-42-44 stitches. Continue until piece measures 39-37-37-35-33-32 cm / 15 ¼"-14 ½"-14 ½"-13 ¾"-13"-12 ½" from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 4-4-2-4-2-4 stitches evenly = 40-40-40-44-44-48 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 3 cm / 1''. Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-40-38-36-35 cm / 16 ½"-15 ¾"-15 ¾"-14 7/8"-14 1/8"-13 ¾" from division. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight bind-off edge use needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9). Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = wheat
symbols = heather
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Lisbeth Mikkelsen wrote:

Hejsa er meget glad for jeres garn og opskrifter. vedr. model drops 196-15, model ai-146, vil strikke den til min veninde så derfor mindre end opskriften lyder, har strikket den til mig selv på pinde nr. 5, og kunne strikke den på 4.5 men bliver for tæt, og blødere med pinde 5, kan ikke lige overskue opskriften og tage færre masker, hvad er muligt? med venlig hilsen Lisbeth

04.05.2023 - 12:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisbeth. Beklager, men design avd har ikke mulighet til å regne om en allerede skrevet oppskrift. mvh DROPS Design

08.05.2023 kl. 08:46

country flag Patti Buchanan wrote:

Good morning I am knitting Womens Nordic Jumper DROPS 196-15 Can you please explain why I need to cast on 28 stitches in the body just before starting the ribbing? It seems like too many Thank you Patti

23.04.2023 - 13:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patti, you need to increase 28 stitches evenly so that the ribbing will not get too tight, since working a rib is usually quite tight and you will also be changing to a smaller needle . Happy knitting!

23.04.2023 kl. 19:43

country flag VAUCLIN MARIE-CHRISTINE wrote:

Bonjour, Pouvez vous me dire combien de mailles je dois avoir après le 14ème rang de A1, c'est-à-dire avant de commencer avec le 2ème coloris ? Merci de votre réponse et merci pour tous ces jolis modèles. Cordialement

21.02.2023 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vauclin, après le 14ème tour de A.1 vous avez 10 mailles dans chaque A.1, au 15ème tour, tricotez *5 m bruyère, 1 m blé, 4 m bruyère*, et répétez de *-* tout le tour. Bon tricot!

21.02.2023 kl. 17:46

country flag Lene Rennison wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke hvorfor der skal tages masker ud lige inden ribkanten for neden Hvis den var strikket nedefra ville man tage ud efter rib

01.11.2021 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, det er fordi du strikker ribkanten på tyndere pinde og rib trækker arbejdet sammen. Denne model er det ikke tænkt at det skal være en stram ribkant nederst. :)

02.11.2021 kl. 14:41

country flag Janne S wrote:

Hei! Fint mønster, men jeg skjønner ikke … Det står at det er en genser med rundfelling, men i oppskriften står det raglan. Er det feil i beskrivelsen på str. S, eller skal den følges? (Har aldri strikket raglan før.)

11.10.2021 - 09:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janne. På denne genseren er det både rundfelling og raglan. Du strikker bærestykket etter diagram A.1 og det er rundfelling. Strikker du str. S er det ingen raglan økninger, men i str. M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL må det økes mer for å få riktig maskeantall og mål og da økes det raglan ved ermene/se beskrivelsen i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

11.10.2021 kl. 15:06

country flag Marianne wrote:

Bonjour ! Je voudrais tricoter ce pull mais je trouve l' encolure trop échancrée . Pour remédier à ce problème, suffirait-il de prolonger le bord-côtes ? Merci beaucoup .

26.09.2021 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marianne, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin, même par mail ou téléphone, pour toute assistance complémentaire. Merci pour votre compréhension.

27.09.2021 kl. 08:34

country flag Suzie wrote:

Bonjour, Au 15 ième rang, on tricote 5 mailles roses, 1 maille blé et 4 mailles roses, est-ce qu'on doit faire le rang au complet en faisant toujours 5 mailles roses, 1 maille blé, 4 mailles roses ????? Pourquoi c'est pas toujours 5 mailles, 1 maille, 5 mailles ???

08.01.2021 - 04:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Suzie, vous aurez ainsi 9 mailles en rose à suivre et 1 maille blé au milieu en répétant le motif. Répétez tout le tour (5 m rose, 1 m blé, 4 m rose) . Bon tricot!

08.01.2021 kl. 07:56

country flag Cebe69 wrote:

Bonjour, à quoi servent les 28 augmentations (taille M) en bas du tricot avant de passer aux 3 cms de cotes pour terminer? Si on ne les fait pas le pull est-il trop serré au niveau des hanches? Merci beaucoup

14.12.2020 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cebe69, ces augmentations vont permettre à la bordure côtes de ne pas resserrer le bas du pull, car il faut plus de mailles en côtes, avec des aiguilles plus fines pour la même largeur qu'avec des aiguilles plus grosses. Bon tricot!

14.12.2020 kl. 15:57

country flag Brochard Nadège wrote:

Bonjour je tricote la taille M et si je compte bien j'ai 272 mailles + 8 mailles d'augmentation de raglan soit 280 mailles avant de commencer la séparation manche et corps. Pouvez-vous me dire si c'est cela ou bien où est mon erreur ? Et si j'ai raison combien de mailles je dois laisser pour chaque manche. Merci

05.11.2020 - 07:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brochard, arpsè le diagramme, vous avez 264 en taille M, vous augmentez ensuite pour le raglan 1 fois 8 m = 272 m (sous le paragraphe TAILLE M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL, la taille M est maintenant la 1ère taille - vous tricotez ensuite vos 272 m ainsi pour diviser: tricotez 41 m, glissez 54 m en attente et montez 6 m, tricotez 82 m, glissez 54 m en attente et montez 6 m, tricotez 41 m = 41+6+82+6+41= 176 m pour le dos/devant. Bon tricot!

05.11.2020 kl. 10:58

country flag Ahb wrote:

Hei! hvis jeg skal strikke den i størrelse small, hvor mange nøster av hver farge trenger jeg da?

03.04.2020 - 08:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Då behöver du 5 nystan hvete nr 02, och 2 nystan lyng nr 14. Lycka till!

03.04.2020 kl. 12:21

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