DROPS / 156 / 55

Celtic Dancer by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS slippers with cables in "Nepal".

Tags: cable, slippers,
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-162
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
To fit foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in color no 4311, gray/purple

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 – for rib edge

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show the pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 twisted tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

SEED ST:
Row/round 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row/round 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row/round.

MEASURING TIP:
Measure in the middle of cable in A.1/A.3.
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SLIPPER:
Worked back and forth from mid back.
Cast on 33-33-35 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal (let the yarn end be approx. 20 cm / 8"; used for assembly). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 4 sts evenly = 37-37-39 sts. Then work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3 (= 8 sts), 13-13-15 sts SEED ST – see explanation above, A.1 (= 8 sts), finish with P 4. Continue the pattern like this, work P sts K from WS. Repeat A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 10½-11½-13 cm / 4¼''-4½"-5" – see MEASURING TIP above, work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3, 13-13-15 sts seed st, A.1, P 4, cast on 4 new sts, work the first 4 sts, round beg here = 41-41-43 sts. Now work piece in the round on double pointed needles. Work pattern as before but now work A.2 (= 12 sts) over the 4 P sts in each side of piece and the 4 new sts. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.a until piece measures 17-19-22 cm / 6¾''-7½"-8¾". Now work in stockinette st over sts in A.a, or start stockinette st a bit earlier. Continue A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. Now insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Work A.3 but insert 1st marker between 1st and 2nd st and 2nd marker between 7th and 8th st in A.3, work seed st as before, work A.1 but insert 3rd marker between 1st and 2nd st and 4th marker between 7th and 8th st in A.1, K the remaining sts (= 14 sts on top of foot, 15-15-17 sts under foot and 6 sts in each side of piece).

Now dec for toe on next round as follows: Dec 1 st after 2nd marker and 1 st before 3rd marker under foot 0-0-1 time in total – READ DECREASE TIP above, work the remaining sts = 14 sts on top of foot and 15 sts under foot (= 41 sts in total). On next round, dec as follows: Dec 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker (= 4 dec in total). Repeat dec every round 6 times in total AT THE SAME TIME on last dec work cable sts in A.1 and A.3 as follows: K 2 twisted tog, K 2 tog. After all dec there are 13 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 20-22-25 cm / 8''-8¾"-9¾". Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold cast-on edge double (= mid back), use yarn end from beg to sew neatly tog mid back.

EDGE:
Work edge in the round on double pointed needles around the opening on slipper. Pick up 50-50-54 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Nepal. P 1 round. Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 60-60-64 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 2 until piece measures approx. 12-13-14 cm / 4¾''-5"-5½". Bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Fold the edge double.

Knit another slipper.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P/K 1 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P/K 1, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-55) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (124)

Mathilde 04.11.2018 - 18:55:

Bonjour,\r\nJe ne comprends pas le passage du tricot en _ retour au tricot en rond, \r\nComment tricoté t\'on les\'4 premières mailles?\r\nAuriez vous une vidéo qui explique ce point de\'l\'ouvrage, les explications trouvés dans les commentaires ne m\'aide pas vraiment.\r\n\r\nJe vous remercie\r\nMathilde

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 10:41:

Bonjour Mathilde, vous pouvez répartir les mailles sur les aiguilles doubles pointes juste à ce moment là: tricotez 4 m env, A.3, 13-13-15 m point de riz, A.1, 4 m env, monter 4 m, répartissez les mailles sur les aiguilles doubles pointes et tricoter les 4 premières m du tour, les tours commencent désormais ici. Bon tricot!

Hanne 29.10.2018 - 16:54:

Tak for svar, men det giver fortsat ikke mening. A2 er ikke perlestriksdelen af opskriften og snoningerne i A2 er alle markeret i retfelter, idet der strikkes rundt. Hvorfor står der så, at man skal strikke ret/vrang? Burde der ikke rettelig stå strik ret?

DROPS Design 30.10.2018 kl. 12:06:

Hej Hanne, jo maskerne imellem snoningerne i A.2 danner et perlestrikket mønster (skiftevis 1ret, 1vrang osv) det ser du også på billedet af tøflen. Vil du hellere strikke det midterste i glat, så gør du bare det. God fornøjelse!

Linn 28.10.2018 - 04:24:

Hej! Har nu stickat 11,5 cm i storlek 38/40. Det står nu att jag ska sticka ett varv från rätsidan och sedan lägga upp 4 nya maskor och sedan sticka över dessa och och att varvet nu mäts härifrån. Hur gör jag rent praktiskt efter att jag lagt upp 4 nya maskor? Hur stickar jag över dem? Och hur ska det se ut när jag börjar sticka runt? Vilken blir den första maskan på varvet? Tack på förhand!

DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 10:34:

Hei Linn. Du legger opp 4 nye masker på slutten av omgangen (=midt oppå foten), så strikker du videre over de 4 første maskene på omgangen igjen. Det betyr at arbeidet nå strikkes rundt isteden for frem og tilbake. Begynnelsen på omgangen er her (4 masker inn i arbeidet fra den originale oppleggskanten). Du skal nå strikke A.2 over de 4 vrangmaskene som var i hver side + de 4 maskene du la opp (fletten oppå foten) - derfor er starten av omgangen flyttet 4 masker. Det som var den 5. masken på omgangen fra starten av (fra retten) er nå den 1. masken på omgangen. God fornøyelse.

Andrea Schwarz 21.10.2018 - 08:45:

Ch muss mich korrigieren zu meiner vorherigen Frage. Am Ende des Schafts habe ich bei der nächsten Hinrieh am Ende 4 Maschen zugenommen. Nun steht dort \".., die ersten 4 M stricken, ab hier beginnt nun die Runde (= 41-41-43 M). Die M auf Nadelspiel Nr. 5 verteilen und ab nun in Rd weiterstricken. \" Diesen Übergang bekomme ich nicht hin. Wie stricke ich die ersten 4 Maschen? Wie verteile ich und stricke weiter?

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 09:04:

Liebe Frau Schwarz, die 4 ersten Maschen der vorrigen Hinreihe stricken Sie wie beim letzten Reihen (= 4 M. li, von der Vorderseite gesehen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Andrea Schwarz 21.10.2018 - 08:44:

Ich muss mich korrigieren zu meiner vorherigen Frage. Am Ende des Schafts habe ich bei der nächsten Hinrieh am Ende 4 Maschen zugenommen. Nun steht dort \".., die ersten 4 M stricken, ab hier beginnt nun die Runde (= 41-41-43 M). Die M auf Nadelspiel Nr. 5 verteilen und ab nun in Rd weiterstricken. \" Diesen Übergang bekomme ich nicht hin. Wie stricke ich die ersten 4 Maschen? Wie verteile ich und stricke weiter?

Andrea Schwarz 21.10.2018 - 08:14:

Ich habe 33 M für den Schaft angeschlagen. Am Ende des Schafts soll ich nach einer Musterhinreihe 4 Maschen anschlagen. Das macht dann 37 Maschen. Nach "4 neue Maschen anschlagen" steht "..,die ersten 4 Maschen stricken, ab hier beginnt nun die Runde ( ...41 M..)…" Ich habe aber nur 37 Maschen oder muss ich auch die Rückreihe stricken und erst am Ende der Rückreihe noch 4 Maschen zunehmen, dann die ersten 4 Maschen der folgenden Hinreihe stricken und erst dann auf 4 Nadeln umsteigen?

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 09:03:

Liebe Frau Schwarz, nach dem Sie die 4 neuen Maschen (am Ende einer Hinreihe) angeschlagen haben (= es sind jetzt 41 M), stricken Sie in die Runde, dh die Maschen auf die 4 Nadeln legen und dann die 4 ersten Maschen der Runde stricken. Die Runden beginnen jetzt hier, nach den 4 neuen Maschen + die 4 ersten M der vorrigen Reihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Hanne 14.10.2018 - 21:55:

I mønster A2, der strikkes rundt og dermed retside hele vejen, står der i diagramforklaringen: “sæt 1 m på ........1 vrang/ret....” Hvordan skal det forstås da alle masker i de tre felter strikkes ret?

DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 15:44:

Hej Hanne, den strikkes vrang eller ret alt efter hvad som passer ind i det perlestrikkede mønster på midten af A.2. God fornøjelse!

Zita 06.10.2018 - 12:41:

I'm almost at the end of the pattern, I'll try to be specific about my questions: 1) I'm making the 38/40 one, with Nepal. Is it possible that I only need to knit 1 row of A.a at the end? I already reached 19 cm. 2) Do I place the markers on 19 cm, and start the decreasing at the next row? At the same time knitting stockinette stich on A.a or just K, as the pattern writes? I read the English and Hungarian version too, but the pattern is a bit hard to follow. Thanks in advance!

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 08:24:

Dear Zita, depending on your tension in height you may have to knit only one row in A.a . When piece measures 19 cm, insert the marker continuing working A.1 and A.3 (= cables on the sides) and inserting the marker on next round, and then start to dec on next round (after inserting markers). You can work the sts in A.a in stocking stitch or in pattern as you rather like to. Happy knitting!

Liz 27.09.2018 - 01:57:

Hi there, you have such beautiful patterns! Are there any plans to create easily readable patterns? I'd love to knit this item but I find the pattern (it almost seems purposefully) inscrutable. Beautiful works, but not user -friendly. 😢

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 08:48:

Dear Liz, this pattern is very popular and succesfully done a lot of times, simply read carefully the pattern and follow each step as described. Feel free to ask your question here or contact your DROPS store for any personnal assistance, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

France Turbide 06.07.2018 - 19:08:

Dans la légende du diagramme que signifie "tricoter à l'en/a l'end? Merci

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 07:38:

Bonjour Mme Turbide, les mailles du milieu de A.2 se tricotent au point de riz, en fonction de la torsade que vous tricotez, vous devrez tricoter les mailles centrales soit à l'endroit, soit à l'envers. Bon tricot!

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