DROPS / 156 / 55

Celtic Dancer by DROPS Design

DROPS papučky - ponožky s copánkovým vzorem pletené z příze "Nepal". Velikost: 35-43.

Tagy: copánek, papučky,

DROPS design: model č. ne-162
Skupina přízí: C nebo A + A
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Velikost: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Délka chodidla: 22-24-27 cm

Materiál: DROPS NEPAL firmy Garnstudio
150 g pro všechny velikosti, barva č. 4311, starofialová

DROPS JEHLICE a PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č. 5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 17 ok x 22 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE č. 4,5 – na lemy.

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Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

65% vlna, 35% alpaka
od 49.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 49.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 52.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 147Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1-A.3; vzor je nahlížen z lícové strany.

TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ:
PŘED značkou splétáme 2 oka hladce.
ZA značkou splétáme 2 oka hladce za zadní nit.

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
Pleteme stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady. 1 vroubek = 2 řady hladce.

PERLIČKOVÝ (HRÁŠKOVÝ) VZOR:
1. ŘADA/KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *1 oko hladce, 1 oko obrace*, *-* opakujeme.
2. ŘADA/KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: oka pleteme opačně, než se jeví - nad okem hladce tedy pleteme obrace, nad okem obrace pleteme hladce; tuto řadu stále opakujeme.
TIP - MĚŘENÍ:
Měříme podél středu copánku ve vzoru A.1/A.3.
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PAPUČKA – PONOŽKA:
Pleteme v řadách od středu zadní strany.
Na jehlice č.5 nahodíme přízí Nepal 33-33-35 ok (konec příze ponecháme dlouhý asi 20 cm; využijeme jej později při dokončování). Pleteme 1 vroubek vroubkovým vzorem – viz výše – a SOUČASNĚ v poslední řadě přidáme rovnoměrně 4 oka = 37-37-39 ok. Pokračujeme lícovou řadou takto: 4 oka obrace, vzor A.3 (= 8 ok), 13-13-15 ok perličkovým vzorem – viz výše, vzor A.1 (= 8 ok), končíme 4 oky obrace. V tomto rozvržení vzorů pokračujeme, oka obrace pleteme v rubových řadách hladce. Vzor A.1 a A.3 opakujeme až do ukončení práce. Ve výši 10,5-11,5-13 cm – viz TIP – MĚŘENÍ – pleteme lícovou řadu takto: 4 oka obrace, vzor A.3, 13-13-15 ok perličkovým vzorem, vzor A.1, 4 oka obrace, nahodíme 4 nová oka, upleteme první 4 oka, kruhová řada nyní začíná zde = 41-41-43 ok. Nyní pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích. Pleteme vzorem jako dosud, ale teď pleteme nad 4 oka obrace na každé straně dílu a 4 novými oky vzor A.2 (= 12 ok). Po dokončení celé 1 sekvence vzoru A.2 (na výšku) pleteme vzor A.a, a to až do výše 17-19-22 cm. Nyní pleteme nad oky vzoru A.a lícovým žerzejem, ppř. začneme plést lícový žerzej o něco dříve. Pleteme vzorem A.1 a A.3 až do ukončení práce. Teď umístíme do pleteniny 4 značky, takto: pleteme vzor A.3 a SOUČASNĚ vložíme 1. značku mezi 1. a 2. oko a 2. značku mezi 7. a 8. oko vzoru A.3, pleteme perličkovým vzorem jako dosud, pak pleteme vzor A.1 a SOUČASNĚ vložíme 3. značku mezi 1. a 2. oko a 4. značku mezi 7. a 8. oko vzoru A.1, zbylá oka upleteme hladce (= 14 ok nártu, 15-15-17 ok chodidla a 6 ok na každém boku).

V následující kruhové řadě začneme tvarovat špičku, takto: ujmeme 1 oko ZA 2. značkou a 1 oko PŘED 3. značkou na chodidle, a to celkem 0-0-1x – viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ, upleteme zbylá oka = 14 o nártu a 15 ok chodidla (= 41 ok celkem). V následující kruhové řadě ujímáme takto: ujmeme 1 oko PŘED 1. a 3. značkou a 1 oko ZA 2. a 4. značkou (= ujmeme celkem 4 oka). Toto ujímání opakujeme v každé kruhové řadě, celkem 6x a SOUČASNĚ u posledního ujímání pleteme oka copánku ve vzoru A.1 a A.3 takto: 2 oka spleteme hladce za zadní nit, 2 oka spleteme hladce. Po dokončení veškerého ujímání máme na jehlicích 13 ok.
Díl měří asi 20-22-25 cm. Pak přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.

DOKONČENÍ:
Počáteční, nahozenou řadu přeložíme napolovic (= střed zadní strany, paty) a koncem příze, který jsme si nechali při počátečním nahazování, patu sešijeme.

LEM:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích po celém obvodu otvoru. Na ponožkové jehlice č.4 nabereme přízí Nepal 50-50-54 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu obrace. Pak pleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 10 ok = 60-60-64 ok. Nyní pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2 (tj. pleteme střídavě 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace) až do výše asi 12-13-14 cm. Pak všechna oka dle vzoru uzavřeme. Lem ohrneme.

Stejným způsobem upleteme i druhou papučku.

Schéma

= lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
= rubový žerzej (líc obrace, rub hladce)
= 1 oko odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 1 oko z pom.jehlice obrace/hladce
= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 1 oko upleteme obrace/hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 156-55) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
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Komentáře / Otázky (102)

Judith 16.10.2019 - 10:36:

Where the pattern says "Work as follows from right side; p4, A3,, 13/13/15 moss st, A1, p4, then says cast o 4 new sts, work the 1st 4sts..........I'm not sure which way the 4 newly cast on stitches are worked. Is it P4, A3, 13/13/15moss (or seed ), A1, P4, then the new cast on 4 are either knit or purl?

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 09:21:

Dear Judith, the 4 new stitches will be now the middle 4 stitches in A.2, after you have join in the round, purl the next 4 stitches (= the first 4 sts at the beg of previous row), then work A.3, moss st, A.1 as before, then over the next P4 + 4 new sts + next P4 = work A.2. Happy knitting!

Judith Jeffery 13.10.2019 - 11:22:

I'm about to try this pattern for the first time; I've been knitting for more than 40 years , but have never tried knitting from a diagram like this, and have never come across a pattern written as a solid paragraph, so....absolutely no disrespect intended.....but far from being easy, it looks one of the most difficult patterns I've ever come across! This is going to be a real test, will let you know how I get on!

DROPS Design 13.10.2019 kl. 13:49:

Dear Judith thank you for your note. In our experience diagrams are better, because you can see not only the actual stitch or row, but also how the stitches and rows above each otherrelate to each other, also they are universal, can be decipehered in almot any language. HERE is a DROPS lesson that might help you to use/ read diagrams more easily. Happy Knitting!

Ylva 30.09.2019 - 19:58:

Jeg holder på å strikke a. 2 diagrammet. Jeg ser at det ikke er noen forklaring til flettingen på linje 11,13,15 og 17. Det er bare forklaring på flettingen på a. 1, a. 3 og den nederste delen av a. 3. Hvordan strikker jeg den øverste delen?

DROPS Design 02.10.2019 kl. 11:22:

Hej Ylva, Når du har strikket A.2 en gang, så fortsætter du med A.a over de midterste 12 masker. God fornøjelse!

Britt Fischer 17.09.2019 - 18:48:

Sticka 2 m vridna tills, 2 m räta tills Så står det i mönstret. Vad menar ni med 2 m vridna tills?

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 10:03:

Hej Britt, Se hur du gör i vår video

How to decrease by knitting 2 stitches together (K2tog) from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Jean Sweezie 13.09.2019 - 15:58:

I have always had trouble reading the Drops patterns because they are all written in one paragraph. However, I tried picking up the wording of the pattern and dropping it into a word file, and was able to increase the line height and put paragraphs where I wanted them, and this worked perfectly. Such an interesting pattern.

Dorothy Davis 13.08.2019 - 23:30:

Thank you for answering my question. I got another one for you, I am starting the A.2 & I am on the 3rd row. What does it mean when your doing the part with the cable needle P/K1. Do it mean p & k in the same stitch. Sorry if my country show something else before, I just noticed this. I am from Canada.

DROPS Design 14.08.2019 kl. 08:05:

Dear Mrs Davis, when working the cables you will have to work the stitches on the side of the cable either P or K depending on the next row in diagram. The stitches on either side of the cable are purled and the stitches in the middle of the cables are worked in moss stitch, ie either K or P. Happy knitting!

Dorothy Davis 13.08.2019 - 03:39:

In the graph you make the 1st cable on the 5th row. Then you do 3 rows, so I go back to the beginning & do 4 more rows before I do another cable. So that would be 7 rows before another cable. Waiting to hear back from you before I continue on.

DROPS Design 13.08.2019 kl. 08:25:

Dear Mrs Davis, you are right, there should be then 7 rows between each cable in A.1 and A.3. Happy knitting!

Rachel 11.08.2019 - 19:36:

These are lovely. Thank you.

Louise Ranger 30.07.2019 - 15:31:

J'aimerais avoir le patron en français svp, merci

DROPS Design 30.07.2019 kl. 19:16:

Bonsoir Louise. Ici vous trouvez les explications en français . Bon tricot!

Loretta 18.06.2019 - 18:15:

What weight is this yarn? I have both fingering and DK weight yak wool, but your yarn converter doesn’t say how heavy this is. My DK weight is a 4-ply. Thanks!

DROPS Design 19.06.2019 kl. 06:56:

Dear Loretta, DROPS Nepal is aran/worsted - read more about this yarn here - please find your DROPS retailer here. Happy knitting!

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