DROPS / 156 / 55

Celtic Dancer by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS slippers with cables in "Nepal". Size 35 - 43.

Tags: cable, slippers,
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-162
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: 35/37-38/40-41/43
To fit foot length: 22-24-27 cm
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in colour no 4311, grey/purple

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLE AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show the pattern seen from RS.

Dec 1 st before marker as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 twisted tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

Row/round 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row/round 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row/round.

Measure in the middle of cable in A.1/A.3.

Worked back and forth from mid back.
Cast on 33-33-35 sts on needle size 5 mm with Nepal (let the yarn end be approx. 20 cm; used for assembly). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 4 sts evenly = 37-37-39 sts. Then work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3 (= 8 sts), 13-13-15 sts MOSS ST – see explanation above, A.1 (= 8 sts), finish with P 4. Continue the pattern like this, work P sts K from WS. Repeat A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 10½-11½-13 cm – see MEASURING TIP above, work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3, 13-13-15 sts moss st, A.1, P 4, cast on 4 new sts, work the first 4 sts, round beg here = 41-41-43 sts. Now work piece in the round on double pointed needles. Work pattern as before but now work A.2 (= 12 sts) over the 4 P sts in each side of piece and the 4 new sts. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.a until piece measures 17-19-22 cm. Now work in stocking st over sts in A.a, or start stocking st a bit earlier. Continue A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. Now insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Work A.3 but insert 1st marker between 1st and 2nd st and 2nd marker between 7th and 8th st in A.3, work moss st as before, work A.1 but insert 3rd marker between 1st and 2nd st and 4th marker between 7th and 8th st in A.1, K the remaining sts (= 14 sts on top of foot, 15-15-17 sts under foot and 6 sts in each side of piece).

Now dec for toe on next round as follows: Dec 1 st after 2nd marker and 1 st before 3rd marker under foot 0-0-1 time in total – READ DECREASE TIP above, work the remaining sts = 14 sts on top of foot and 15 sts under foot (= 41 sts in total). On next round, dec as follows: Dec 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker (= 4 dec in total). Repeat dec every round 6 times in total AT THE SAME TIME on last dec work cable sts in A.1 and A.3 as follows: K 2 twisted tog, K 2 tog. After all dec there are 13 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 20-22-25 cm. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Fold cast-on edge double (= mid back), use yarn end from beg to sew neatly tog mid back.

Work edge in the round on double pointed needles around the opening on slipper. Pick up 50-50-54 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Nepal. P 1 round. Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 60-60-64 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 2 until piece measures approx. 12-13-14 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Fold the edge double.

Knit another slipper.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P/K 1 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P/K 1, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-55) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (116)

Adrienne 24.05.2020 - 04:43:

When I am measuring for the second time(17-19-22cm) , after completing A2 section, do I measure from the beginning of the A2 piece (where we joined in the round), or from the original start point ? (So only 6.5-7.5-9 cm additional knitting) As I have only completed one vertical (17lines) of A2 and the picture of the sock in the pattern has much more !

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 09:35:

Dear Adrienne, measure the 17-19-22 cm from the cast on edge. You then continue working A.a (middle panel/cable) decreasing at the same time, so that you should have half a A.a approx (depending on your size) after the whole diagram. Happy knitting!

Adrienne 22.05.2020 - 09:15:

Is it possible to knit this using a circular needle as I don’t have double pointed needles , or are there insufficient stitches to do this ??

DROPS Design 22.05.2020 kl. 10:10:

Dear Adrienne, you can use a long circular needle and use the magic loop technique. Happy knitting!

Katarzyna 03.05.2020 - 21:18:

Tak juz wiem ,po przeczytaniu powtornym zorientowalam sie o co chodzi😁,czasami trzeba wiecej pomyslec,przepraszam za klopot

Kaska 02.05.2020 - 17:48:

W opisie nie jest podane ile cm trzeba zrobic sciagacza francuskiego,jest podane jak zrobic ale ile go zrobic?

DROPS Design 03.05.2020 kl. 19:50:

Witaj Kasiu! Trzeba wykonać 1 ściągacz francuski, czyli 2 rzędy (każdy na prawo). Pozdrawiamy!

Maria Leister 12.04.2020 - 20:45:

Hei. Var ikke fornøyd med passformen. I str 38-40 skal tøffelen være 22 cm hel lengde selv om foten er 24. Hælsømmen havner da under hælen og tøffelen sitter stramt. Mye bedre å strikke den 24 cm som foten, da ble den veldig fin!

Ingmarie Nyberg 23.02.2020 - 08:25:

Hej! Är mitt i stickandet och har kommit till att arbetet är 22 cm och ska börja med slätstickning över A.a. Men jag förstår inte vad som menas med att sticka till färdigt mått. Hur långt är det? Hittar inga siffror på det. Med vänlig hälsning Ingmarie

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 11:35:

Hei Ingmarie. Ferdig mål = 25 cm, det står i avsnittet rett over MONTERING. God Fornøyelse!

Ket 18.02.2020 - 18:19:

Hoi! Ik heb nog wol liggen waar ik misschien dit project mee kan maken. De aangeraden naalddikte daarvan is echter 3,5-4. Mijn maat is 39. Zou ik dit patroon een maat groter kunnen maken zodat dit misschien alsnog uitkomt?

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 19:52:

Dag Ket,

Het beste is om even een proeflapje te maken om te kijken hoe de stekenverhouding van je garen is. Op basis daarvan zou je kunnen berekenen welke maat je kunt nemen.

Eliza Hermens 16.02.2020 - 18:33:

Hoe weet je of je in A2 als bij de kabels staat 1 av/r welke steek je moet breien. Averecht of Recht? Zag deze vraag ook langs komen in de Engelse taal maar snap dan nog het antwoord niet. (heeft te maken met volgende naald of zo)?

DROPS Design 23.02.2020 kl. 17:09:

Dag Eliza,

Je kijkt inderdaad naar de volgende steek. Er staat een rondje in het hokje of er staat niks in het hokje. Het rondje of een leeg hokje zijn uitgelegd bij de lijst met symbolen.

Ace 04.02.2020 - 15:59:

Hoi hoi! Ik zit te overwegen om binnenkort dit patroon te gaan breien. Ik vroeg me echter af, is het ook mogelijk om dit patroon met rondbreinaalden te maken in plaats van breinaalden zonder knop? Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 23:09:

Dag Ace,

Ja hoor, dat kan. Je zet dan gewoon alle steken op de rondbreinaald, in plaats van dat je ze verdeeld over naalden zonder knop.

Judith 04.02.2020 - 12:51:

I’m a bit confused regarding the instructions: “Now work in stocking stitch over sets I’m A.a, or start a bit earlier. (Am not certain what is meant by ‘start a bit earlier’ ie why/where?). Also, it continues.....”Continue A.1 and A.3 until “finished measurements”.........I can’t find which measurements are referred to. It says work A.a until piece measures 17-19-22 cm, so are the finished measurements in addition to this?

DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 15:47:

Dear Judith, you have to work A.a until piece measures 17-19-22 cm, and then work in stocking stitch over the stitches of A.a, but should you end A.a before the right measurement (= 17-19-22 cm), then work the stitches in stocking stitch (rather than start an new repeat in height that couldn't be finished). You continue working the cables on each side (= A.1 and A.3) to the end of the slipper, ie until all stitches will be decreased (= total length of slipper). Happy knitting!

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