The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Valencia |
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Knitted sweater with raglan and stripes. Piece is worked in DROPS Air, top down. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 202-9 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly): To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 16) = 5.25. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. If decreasing knit approx. every 4th and 5th stitch together. STRIPES YOKE: Work stripes in stockinette stitch, top down as follows: 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" with color 10, fog, 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" with color 22, yellow, 0-2-2-4-4-6 cm = 0"-¾"-¾"-1½"-1½"-2⅜" with color 06, black STRIPES BODY: Work stripes in stockinette stitch, top down as follows: 9-7-8-6-7-5 cm = 3½"-2¾"-3⅛"-2⅜"-2¾"-2" with color 06, black (i.e. the stripe in black is 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" in total including rounds from yoke), 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" with color 03, pearl grey 9-11-9-11-9-11 cm = 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" (or until finished measurements) with color 16, blue STRIPES SLEEVE: Work stripes in stockinette stitch, top down as follows: 13-11-11-9-9-7 cm = 5⅛"-4⅜"-4⅜"-3½"-3½"-2¾" with color 06, black (i.e. the stripe in black is 13 cm = 5⅛" in all sizes including rounds from yoke), 13-13-13-13-13-13 cm = 5⅛"- 5⅛"- 5⅛"- 5⅛"- 5⅛"- 5⅛"- 5⅛" with color 03, pearl grey 18-19-17-18-16-17 cm = 7"-7½"-6¾"-7"-6¼"-6¾" (or until finished measurements) with color 16, blue RAGLAN: Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 markers in every transition between sleeves and body as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased on each side of marker and 8 stitches increased in total on round.) On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Continue body in the round, top down until finished measurements. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Work entire garment in stockinette stitch with stripes and edges in rib. NECK EDGE: Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 with fog. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Knit 1 round while increasing 16-16-20-16-16-20 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 100-104-112-112-116-124 stitches. Insert a marker here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Then work yoke as explained below. YOKE: Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9. Insert 4 marker in piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert 1 marker at beginning of round, count 12-12-14-14-14-14 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 38-40-42-42-44-48 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 12-12-14-14-14-14 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before next stitch. 38-40-42-42-44-48 stitches remain on round after last marker (= back piece). Work STRIPES YOKE - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Increase for raglan like this every other round 18-20-21-24-26-28 times in total = 244-264-280-304-324-348 stitches. After last increase piece measures approx. 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm = 7"-8"- 8¾"-9½"-10¼"-11" from marker. If the garment is shorter than this, continue until correct measurements. Work next round as follows: Knit 0-0-0-1-2-3, slip the next 48-52-56-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit 74-80-84-92-100-110 (= front piece), slip the next 48-52-56-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 74-80-84-91-98-107 stitches (= back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! BODY: = 160-172-184-200-220-240 stitches. Begin round in one side of body, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve. Work STRIPES BODY - see explanation above. When piece measures 21 cm = 8¼" from division in all sizes, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 6 cm = 2⅜" with blue. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight bind-off edge use circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9). Sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜" from shoulder and down. SLEEVE: Slip the 48-52-56-60-62-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-58-64-68-72-74 stitches. Work STRIPES SLEEVE – read explanation above, until sleeve measures approx. 38-37-35-34-32-31 cm = 15"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜"-12½"-12¼" from division, or to desired length – approx. 6 cm = 2⅜" now remains until finished measurements (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round while decreasing 14-18-20-24-24-26 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 6 cm = 2⅜" with blue. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight bind-off edge use double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9). Sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-38-37 cm = 17¼"-17"-16⅛"-15¾"-15"-14½" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (33)
Bezieht sich die Maschenprobe auf die kleinere Nadel vom Halsausschnitt? Ist das dann immer so bei RVO?
12.04.2020 - 15:57DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Marion, die Maschenprobe (= 16 M x 20 R = 10 x 10 cm) wird mit den grösseren Nadeln gestrickt (= Nr 5,5 in diesem Modell). Sollte diese Maschenprobe stimmen, dann nehmen Sie kleinere Nadeln ( 1 Nummer kleiner) für die Bündchen . Viel Spaß beim stricken!
14.04.2020 - 11:33Skjønner ikke hvordan denne oppskriften kan stemme. Følger man lengden for hver stripe vil genseren få en lengde (i str M) 9+9+9+9+11=47 cm, pluss de 6 cm nederst. Hvor kommer de ekstra 7 cm i tegningen og ferdig mål i oppskriften fra?
26.03.2020 - 12:43DROPS Design answered:
Hei Vi skriver at genseren måler ca 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm fra skulderen og ned under BOL, så den är totalt ca 54 cm i str M. Mvh DROPS Design
26.03.2020 - 14:09Hei! Er oppskriften rettet på? Jeg strikker i str. L, men ser ut som den blir altfor liten.
19.11.2019 - 18:24DROPS Design answered:
Hei Grethe! Oppskriften stemmer, maskeantallet til hver størrelse tilsvarer vidden som er oppgitt i målskissen. Om genseren oppleves som liten kan det være lurt å sjekke strikkefasthet, evt. måle et eget plagg for å se hvilken størrelse som passer best. Her er noen tips til hvordan man leser målskisser: Lykke til!
20.11.2019 - 14:41Oppskriften til denne genseren bør gjennomgåes av designer. Det er feil og mangler i forhold til forventet ferdig produkt. Selv om målene følges i forbindelse med valg av str. blir ikke genseren riktig. Se på deling før bolen og lengde soesielt.
15.11.2019 - 12:52Denne genseren blir for kort når man følger oppskriften slavisk. Måtte rekke opp igjen vrangborden og legge til 6-7 cm for at den skulle kunne brukes
11.11.2019 - 15:57DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ingebjørg, Vi vil gerne se på opskriften, men vi skal vide hvilken størrelse du strikker, og hvor mange cm af hver farve?
14.11.2019 - 12:45Er oppskriften rettet på slik at den nå er korrekt, jfr kommentarer her i kommentarfeltet?
06.11.2019 - 17:42DROPS Design answered:
Hej Sissel, ja opskriften skal være korrekt :)
14.11.2019 - 12:47Denne genseren er kjempe fin. Men det er en utrolig dårlig oppskrift. Ingenting av mål og tegninger som stemmer overens. Jeg har strikket i 18 år og jeg har aldri opplevd at en oppskrift er så rotete og feil. For min del kunne jeg gjøre om sånn at den skulle passe, men syns det er syns at oppskriften skal være så misvisende. Det er mange som kan falle for denne men oppskriften er så rotete og neste. Umulig og følge. Denne burde oppskriften burde gjøres om og forklares bedre!
14.10.2019 - 23:05Jeg vil gjerne strikke denne genseren i ekstra small. Kan dere hjelpe til å beregne mål og maskeantall?
02.10.2019 - 16:34DROPS Design answered:
Hej Torill, Vi kan desværre ikke regne opskriften om til dig. Du kan evt strikke den på mindre pinde, da vil genseren også blive mindre men også mere fast såklart. God fornøjelse!
03.10.2019 - 10:51Hei - har bestilt garn og oppskrift på denne genseren fra Garnius, men når eg nå prøver å laste ned oppskriften så kommer den bare på engelsk - er den ikke på norsk også?
20.08.2019 - 16:32DROPS Design answered:
Hej. Jo den finns på norsk också. Bara välj norsk under endre språk här över om den kommer upp på engelsk och så printar du den genom att trycka på knappen där det står "Oppskrift". Lycka till!
21.08.2019 - 11:32Der er fejl i opskriften. Man skal måle fra første omgang efter ribkanten til afslutning af raglan for at få det til at passe. For str. M bliver det 20 cm målt fra 1. omgang efter halskantens rib til afslutning af ærmegab. Dertil 21 cm fra deling til nederste ribkant. Lægger man 6 cm nedre ribkant og 3 cm halsrib og så 4 cm fra midt for til skulder bliver summen 3+20+21+6+4=54 cm. Der er altså fejl i opskriften.
19.08.2019 - 23:08