DROPS / 206 / 50

Maple Wood by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with cable, stripes and false English rib. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-865
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-128-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-50 3/8”-54 1/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-150-150-200-200 g color 2020, light nougat
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color no 618, nougat
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color 607, light brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-75-75-75-75-100 g color 20, light beige
50-50-50-50-75-75 g color no 12, beige
25-25-25-25-50-50 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rounds vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for edges in rolling edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 60.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 73 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 15) = 4.9.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

STRIPES:
NOTE! Work all stripes in 1 strand Alpaca (A) and 1 strand Kid-Silk (KS) = 2 strands.
STRIPE 1: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 1/2”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” with off white (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 2: 2 rounds with light nougat (A) and off white (KS).
STRIPE 3: 2 rounds with off white (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 4: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 1/2”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” with light nougat (A) and off white (KS).
STRIPE 5: 2 rounds with light nougat (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 6: 2 rounds light nougat (A) and off white (KS).
STRIPE 7: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 1/2”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” with light nougat (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 8: 2 rounds with light nougat (A) and beige (KS).
STRIPE 9: 2 rounds with light nougat (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 10: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 1/2”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” with light nougat (A) and beige (KS).
STRIPE 11: 2 rounds with nougat (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 12: 2 rounds with light nougat (A) and beige (KS).
STRIPE 13: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 1/2”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” with nougat (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 14: 2 rounds with nougat (A) and beige (KS).
STRIPE 15: 2 rounds with nougat (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 16: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 1/2”-2 1/2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” with nougat (A) and beige (KS).
STRIPE 17: 2 rounds with light brown (A) and light beige (KS).
STRIPE 18: 2 rounds with nougat (A) and beige (KS).
STRIPE 19: Work with light brown (A) and light beige (KS) until finished measurements.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch in each side of A.1 in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 73-77-81-87-91-93 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with 1 strand off white Alpaca and 1 strand light beige Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work first a rolling edge, i.e. knit 3 rounds.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Knit 1 round while increasing 15-15-15-17-25-27 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 88-92-96-104-116-120 stitches. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the round - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Now work STRIPES – read explanation above, and pattern as follows:
Work A.1 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work 4 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work A.1 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work 2-3-4-6-9-10 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.2 (= 14 stitches that are increased to 24 stitches), work 2-3-4-6-9-10 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work A.1 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work 4 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work A.1 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work in stockinette stitch over the remaining 18-20-22-26-32-34 stitches (= back piece), and make 1 yarn over (= increase).
First increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above, is now done. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue pattern in the round (repeat A.1 and A.X vertically), and increase every other round 15-18-21-22-23-24 times in total (including first increase as explained above) = 218-246-274-290-310-322 stitches. Then increase only on front and back piece (= 4 stitches increased) every other round 5-5-3-4-5-7 times = 238-266-286-306-330-350 stitches. Work without increases until piece measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm = 8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11”-11 3/4” from marker thread.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work last round as follows:
Work first 5 stitches (= on back piece) as before, slip the next 46-52-58-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 78-86-90-98-108-116 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 46-52-58-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve). and work the remaining 63-71-75-83-93-101 stitches (= on back piece). Cut the yarn. Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 158-174-186-202-226-246 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of each side, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. There are now 84-92-98-106-118-128 stitches on front piece and 74-82-88-96-108-118 stitches on back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides on body.
Begin round in the side and begin with front piece. Then work pattern as follows:
Work 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches in stockinette stitch (= in the side), work A.3 (= 5 stitches), work in stockinette stitch and A.2 over the next 68-76-80-88-98-106 stitches as before, work A.3 (= 5 stitches), work 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches in stockinette stitch (= in the side), work A.3 (= 5 stitches), work in stockinette stitch over the next 58-66-70-78-88-96 stitches as before, work A.3 (= 5 stitches), and finish with 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches in stockinette stitch (= in the side).
When body measures 5 cm = 2” from division in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm = 2 3/8” 4 times in total in each side = 174-190-202-218-242-262 stitches. Work until body measures approx. 29 cm = 11 3/8” from division in all sizes - adjust after 6th or 12th round in A.X (approx. 2 cm = 3/4” remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length).
Work 1 round from wrong side while increasing 10-10-10-14-14-14 stitches evenly (do not increase over cable) = 184-200-212-232-256-276 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work 2 ridges. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Work in 2 rounds stockinette stitch over all stitches. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 46-52-58-60-62-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 52-58-66-68-72-76 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under sleeve, move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch and stripes the same way as on body.
When sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4” from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 3/4”-1 1/4”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” 8-10-13-14-15-16 times in total = 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 40-39-37-35-34-32 cm = 15 3/4”-15 1/4”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2” from division (approx. 2 cm = 3/4” remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length)- NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Work 1 round while increasing 6 stitches evenly = 42-44-46-46-48-50 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Work 2 ridges. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8. Work 2 rounds in stockinette stitch. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= insert right needle through stitch from previous round, knit 1 and slip stitches off the needle
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
= slip 5 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
= slip 5 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 206-50) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Marta 21.04.2020 - 19:48:

Hello. I don’t understand this part: “ Then increase only on front and back piece (= 4 stitches increased) every other round 5-5-3-4-5-7 times = 238-266-286-306-330-350 stitches.” Where should I increase of 4 stitches ? Thanks.

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 08:26:

Dear Marta, these increases are done for the raglan on front and back piece only, this means you have to increase for raglan 5-5-3-4-5-7 more times on front and back piece (as before) but you won't increase for sleeve anymore (raglan increases on sleeves are done). Happy knitting!

FRANCOISE 27.03.2020 - 20:00:

J'ai ENFIN compris, merci pour votre patience. Ce pull est magnifique!!

FRANCOISE 25.03.2020 - 12:42:

Je repose cette question : Je comprends les 92m, je comprends les 10m de A2, je comprends les 144 mailles à faire avant et après chaque A1, mais où dois-je faire les 5 fois 4 augmentations (dos et devant seulement) puisque je fais déjà les augmentations des deux côtes des A1 qui les bordent? Le dos comprend 20 mailles au départ et le devant seulement 3 mailles? Mille excuses pour ces incompréhensions; Pouvez-vous m'indiquer un autre modèle que je peux faire avec cette laine? Merci

DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 15:00:

Bonjour Françoise, quand vous aurez augmenté 18 fois 8 m pour le raglan, vous aurez 246 m mais l'empiècement ne sera pas terminé. Vous devez ensuite encore augmenter 5 fois 4 mailles (autrement dit, vous devez encore augmenter pour le devant et pour le dos = 1 m après A.1 au début du dos/devant + 1 m avant A.1 à la fin du dos/devant) mais plus pour les manches = 4 augmentations au lieu de 8) vous augmenterez ainsi 8 m = 246+20= vous aurez 266 m. Bon tricot!

FRANCOISE 25.03.2020 - 10:37:

Je comprends les 92m, je comprends les 10m de A2, je comprends les 144 mailles à faire avant et après chaque A1, mais où dois-je faire les 5 fois 4 augmentations (dos et devant seulement) puisque je fais déjà les augmentations des deux côtes des A1 qui les bordent? Le dos comprend 20 mailles au départ et le devant seulement 3 mailles? Mille excuses pour ces incompréhensions

DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 11:58:

Bonjour Françoise, la réponse précédente a-t-elle plu éclairer cette question? Vous augmentez pour le raglan 18 fois 8 mailles (= 2 m sur chaque manche + 2 m sur le devant + 2 m sur le dos), puis ensuite uniquement sur le devant et le dos, plus sur les manches. Est-ce que vous comprenez mieux ainsi?

FRANCOISE 25.03.2020 - 09:41:

En fait, après réflexion, ce que je ne comprends pas c'est : - Comment faire les 10 augmentations dans A2 - Comment faire les "5 fois 4 augmentations (dos et devant seulement) Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 10:16:

Bonjour Françoise, les 10 augmentations se font au 1er rang de A.2 (cf les 10 jetés) = on a ainsi 24 m pour A.X. Les 5 x 4 augmentations correspondent aux augmentations des raglans que l'on va ne faire que sur le devant et le dos: 1 m après le A.1 au début du devant/dos et 1 m avant le A.1 à la fin du devant/dos = 4 augmentations sur ces tours (aucune augmentation sur les manches). Bon tricot!

FRANCOISE 24.03.2020 - 15:42:

Je viens de terminer la première augmentation du raglan. Je dois continuer en répétant A1 ET AX (sur 24 mailles) et augmenter 18 fois (je fais le modèle M) au total tous les deux tours. Je ne comprends pas où augmenter et quand. Dois-je reprendre 18 fois les 8 augmentations du montage du raglan mais je n'aurai que 8 fois 18 augmentations soit 74 mailles + les 92 du col je n'arrive pas à 246 mailles à la fin de l'empiècement. Je suis perdue!! Merci

DROPS Design 24.03.2020 kl. 17:07:

Bonjour Françoise, pour A.2 vous allez tricoter uniquement A.X (= les torsades et plus les 2 premiers rangs), A.1 va se tricoter comme avant. Vous continuez ensuite donc en suivant A.1, A.2 et en jersey comme avant en augmentant cf RAGLAN de chaque côté de A.1 (= 1 jeté avant chaque A.1 + 1 jeté après chaque A.1) = 8 augmentations par tour, soit: 92 m + 10 augm dans A.2 + 18 fois 8 augmentations + 5 fois 4 augmentations (= dos et devant seulement) = 92+10+144+20=266 m en taille M. Bon tricot!

Valérie 02.02.2020 - 22:46:

Il est magnifique, serait il possible d’avoir les explications de bas en haut avec des aiguilles droites svp, j ai du mal avec des aiguilles circulaires ... Merci par avance.

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 10:28:

Bonjour Valérie, vous trouverez ici comment adapter un modèle pour des aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

Maria Luisa Cevolani 13.01.2020 - 14:48:

I have finished your maple wood ,M size. Altogether it is a very pretty sweater, but the raglans done with your explanations don't look so nice, with the 2 series of different increases, If I do Maple Wood again, I'll do something different at the raglans, in a way that they are and look continuous

Tone Kristine Ihasee 29.12.2019 - 16:36:

Vil gjerne strikke genseren men uten fletten foran. Blir det rett frem med like mange masker?

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 11:28:

Hei Tone. Nei, det er flere masker i front (fordi fletten trekker genseren litt sammen). mvh DROPS design

Melanie 10.12.2019 - 23:23:

Wieviel Garn Alpaca und Kid Silk bräuchte ich, wenn ich den Pullover einfarbig stricken möchte? Danke.

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 08:26:

Liebe Melanie, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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