DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
6.75 $ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Arched (white) No. 522
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Maple Wood Jacket / DROPS 206-49
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English (US/in)#maplewoodjacket
DROPS design: Pattern z-864
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 6.75 $ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Arched (white) No. 522
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side | |
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side | |
= insert right needle through stitch from previous row, knit 1 and slip stitches off the needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Maple Wood Jacket |
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Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with stripes and false English rib. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 206-49 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows. GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly): To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 81 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining 73 stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 15) = 4.9. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes STRIPES: NOTE! Work all stripes in 1 strand Alpaca (A) and 1 strand Kid-Silk (KS) (= 2 strands. STRIPE 1: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2½"-2½"-2¾"-2¾" with off white (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 2: 2 rows with light nougat (A) and off white (KS). STRIPE 3: 2 rows with off white (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 4: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2½"-2½"-2¾"-2¾" with light nougat (A) and off white (KS). STRIPE 5: 2 rows with light nougat (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 6: 2 rows with light nougat (A) and off white (KS). STRIPE 7: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2½"-2½"-2¾"-2¾" with light nougat (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 8: 2 rows with light nougat (A) and beige (KS). STRIPE 9: 2 rows with light nougat (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 10: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2½"-2½"-2¾"-2¾" with light nougat (A) and beige (KS). STRIPE 11: 2 rows with nougat (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 12: 2 rows with light nougat (A) and beige (KS). STRIPE 13: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2½"-2½"-2¾"-2¾" with nougat (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 14: 2 rows with nougat (A) and beige (KS). STRIPE 15: 2 rows with nougat (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 16: 6-6-6½-6½ -7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2½"-2½"-2¾"-2¾" with nougat (A) and beige (KS). STRIPE 17: 2 rows with light brown mix (A) and light beige (KS). STRIPE 18: 2 rows with nougat (A) and beige (KS). STRIPE 19: Work with light brown mix (A) and light beige (KS) until finished measurements. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. RAGLAN: All increases are done from the right side. Increase 1 stitch in each side of A.2 in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body): All increases are done from the right side. Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at marker thread). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). BUTTONHOLES: Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease first buttonhole when neck edge measures approx. 1½-2 cm = ½"-¾". Then decrease the next 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 9½-9½-8½-8½-9-9½ cm = 3¾"-3¾"-3¼"-3¼"-3½"-3¾" apart. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down. NECK EDGE: Cast on 81-85-89-95-99-101 stitches (including 4 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with 1 strand off white Alpaca + 1 strand light beige Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side. Now work a rolling edge as follows: Knit 1 row from right side and purl 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 15-15-15-17-25-27 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 96-100-104-112-124-128 stitches. Remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Knit 4, purl until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 4. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of row - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! YOKE: Now work STRIPES – read explanation above, and pattern as follows: Work 4 band stitches in garter stitches, work A.1 (= 4 stitches), work in stockinette stitch over the next 5-6-7-9-12-13 stitches (= front piece), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work A.2 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work 4 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work A.2 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work 18-20-22-26-32-34 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work A.2 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work 4 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work A.2 (= 11 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= increase), work in stockinette stitch over the next 5-6-7-9-12-13 stitches, work A.3 (= 4 stitches), and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= front piece). First increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above, is now done. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue pattern back and forth and increase like this every other row 15-18-21-22-23-24 times in total (including first increase as explained above) = 216-244-272-288-308-320 stitches. Then increase only on front and back piece (= 4 stitches increased) every other row 5-5-3-4-5-7 times = 236-264-284-304-328-348 stitches. Repeat A.1 to A.3 vertically. Work without increases until piece measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm = 8"-8¾"-9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾" from marker thread. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work next row from wrong side as follows: Work the first 38-42-44-48-53-57 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 46-52-58-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 68-76-80-88-98-106 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 46-52-58-60-62-64 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 38-42-44-48-53-57 stitches as before (= front piece). Then finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! BODY: = 156-172-184-200-224-244 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread after 41-45-48-52-58-63 stitches in from each side (= in the side of body). There are now 74-82-88-96-108-118 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides on body. Then work pattern as follows: Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 4 stitches), work in stockinette stitch over the next 25-29-31-35-40-44 stitches, work A.4 (= 5 stitches), work 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches in stockinette stitch (= in the side), work A.4 (= 5 stitches), work 58-66-70-78-88-96 stitches in stockinette stitch, work A.4 (= 5 stitches), work 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches in stockinette stitch (= in the side), work A.4 (= 5 stitches), work in stockinette stitch over the next 25-29-31-35-40-44 stitches, work A.3 (= 4 stitches), and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. When body measures 5 cm = 2" from division in all sizes, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm = 2⅜" 4 times in total in each side = 172-188-200-216-240-260 stitches. Work until body measures approx. 29 cm = 11⅜" from division in all sizes (approx. 2 cm = ¾" remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work to desired length). Work 1 row from wrong side while increasing 12-12-12-16-16-16 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 184-200-212-232-256-276 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work 2 ridges. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch over all stitches. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from shoulder and down. SLEEVE: Slip the 46-52-58-60-62-64 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 52-58-66-68-72-76 stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch and stripes in the round the same way as on body. When sleeve measures 2 cm = ¾" from division in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1¾"-1¼"-⅞"-¾"-½"-½" 8-10-13-14-15-16 times in total = 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 40-39-37-35-34-32 cm = 15¾"-15¼"-14½"-13¾"-13⅜"-12½" from division (approx. 2 cm = ¾" remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on and work to desired length)- NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Knit 1 round while increasing 6 stitches evenly = 42-44-46-46-48-50 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8. Work 2 rounds in stockinette stitch. Bind off - make sure that the bind-off edge is not too tight. Sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-37-36-34 cm = 16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-14½"-14¼"-13⅜" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons on to the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find 30 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. Have you finished this pattern? |
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Comments / Questions (5)
Claudie wrote:
Bonjour ! Quand je reprends les mailles pour les manches et que je relève 6 mailles, j'obtiens deux trous sous les bras, cela me désespère et voilà trois fois que je défais mon ouvrage . Je me demande aussi où je dois placer un marqueur avant de faire les diminutions pour les manches. Pouvez-vous m'aider s'il vous plait ? Merci d'avance ! Bien cordialement, Claudie
12.12.2020 - 21:02DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Claudie, cette leçon montre, avec la photo 18B comment relever les mailles des manches dans celles montées sous les manches - vous pouvez relever une maille avant la 1ère des 6 + 1 après la dernière des 6 et diminuer ces mailles dès le 1er tour - ou bien utilisez la technique de la photo 18A en montant les 6 mailles, vous pourrez ensuite faire la couture sous les manches (cf vidéo). Votre marqueur doit se trouver au milieu de ces 6 mailles = c'est le milieu sous la manche. Bon tricot!
14.12.2020 - 08:32Claudie wrote:
Bonjour ! Quelle quantité de laine faut-il en drop alpaca et en kid silk pour faire le gilet d'une seule couleur ? D'avance merci beaucoup pour votre réponse ! Claudie
29.10.2020 - 10:51DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Claudie, nous avons uniquement les quantités correspondantes aux rayures présentées et ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle, vous pouvez additionner chaque couleur pour votre taille - vous aurez probablement besoin d'un peu moins - votre magasin DROPS devrait pouvoir vous aider. Bon tricot!
29.10.2020 - 13:42Hanne wrote:
Jeg har problemer med raglanfellingen og antall masker. Det står under bærestykke at mønster følges hver 2. Linje. Men dette får jeg ikke til å stemme. Det legges jo til masker så antallet stemmer ikke ved å følge oppskriften. Hva er det jeg ikke forstår?
17.11.2019 - 11:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Hanne, mønsteret du strikker i hver raglanovergang forandres ikke. Du tager ud til raglan på hver side af diagrammerne (8 udtagninger på hver 2. pind). De nye masker strikkes videre i glatstrik. God fornøjelse!
03.12.2019 - 15:13Christina Rådelius wrote:
My favourite!
12.08.2019 - 19:56Sabine Koehler wrote:
Da ich ein absoluter Jacken-Fan bin, ist die einer meiner Favoriten. Und dann diese schoenen Farben! Bin schon gespannt auf die Anleitung!
23.07.2019 - 11:25