DROPS Baby / 33 / 30

Baby Talk by DROPS Design

Knitted overall and hat for baby with moss stitch, garter stitch and crochet edge. The set is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino. Size overall: 1 month to 2 years Size hat: Premature to 4 years

  • Baby Talk / DROPS Baby 33-30 - Knitted overall and hat for baby with moss stitch, garter stitch and crochet edge. The set
is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.
Size overall: 1 month to 2 years 
Size hat: Premature to 4 years
  • Baby Talk / DROPS Baby 33-30 - Knitted overall and hat for baby with moss stitch, garter stitch and crochet edge. The set
is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.
Size overall: 1 month to 2 years 
Size hat: Premature to 4 years
  • Baby Talk / DROPS Baby 33-30 - Knitted overall and hat for baby with moss stitch, garter stitch and crochet edge. The set
is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.
Size overall: 1 month to 2 years 
Size hat: Premature to 4 years
  • Baby Talk / DROPS Baby 33-30 - Knitted overall and hat for baby with moss stitch, garter stitch and crochet edge. The set
is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.
Size overall: 1 month to 2 years 
Size hat: Premature to 4 years
  • Baby Talk / DROPS Baby 33-30 - Knitted overall and hat for baby with moss stitch, garter stitch and crochet edge. The set
is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.
Size overall: 1 month to 2 years 
Size hat: Premature to 4 years
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-102-by
Yarn group A
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OVERALL:

SIZE:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equals approx. child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Size equals approx. child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 48-52-56-64 (68-76) = 19”-20 1/2”-22-25 1/4” (26 3/4”-30”)
Full length: 45-53-62-70 (81-90) = 17 3/4”-21”-24 3/8”-27 1/2” (32”-35 1/2”)

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300 (300) g color 37, light lavender
100-100-100 (100) g color 23, light beige mix

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 48 rows vertically in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5, length 60 cm = 24”.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm = US C/2 - for edges and ties.
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HAT:

SIZE: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Approx. head circumference:
(28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm = (11”/12 1/2”) 13 3/8”/15” – 15 3/4”/16 1/2” – 16 1/2”/17 1/4” – 17 1/4”/ 18” (19”/19 3/4” – 19 3/4”/20 1/2”)

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 37, light lavender


KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 48 rows vertically in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.95 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (in the round - applies to hat):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

MOSS STITCH:
Row 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat 2nd row upwards.

INCREASE TIP (applies to overall):
Increase inside 1 edge stitch. All increases are done from the right side.
Increase by making 1 yarn over. Knit yarn over twisted on next row, it should not make holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to overall):
Decrease inside 1 edge stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch: Knit 2 together.

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BEGIN PIECE FOR OVERALL HERE:

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OVERALL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work from bottom up. First work 2 legs, then work the legs together and knit back and forth up to sleeve. Cast on stitches for sleeve in each side of piece, and work front and back piece separately until finished. Sew shoulder and sleeve seams and crochet an edge around the opening on overall at the end. Work entire overall in moss stitch.

LEG:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the stitches.
Cast on 46-50-54-58 (66-70) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with light lavender. Work in MOSS STITCH over all stitches - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8”, increase 1 stitch in each side of piece inside 1 edge stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this every 3rd-4th-5th-5th (8th-8th) row 11-11-12-14 (13-16) times in total = 68-72-78-86 (92-102) stitches. When piece measures 15-18-21-24 (29-34) cm = 6”-7”-8 1/4”-9 1/2” (11 3/8”-13 3/8”), bind off 5 stitches at the beginning of the 2 next rows for gusset (i.e. bind off stitches in each side of piece) = 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way.

OVERALL:
Slip both legs on to same circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5, with bind off stitches towards each other = 116-124-136-152 (164-184) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 6 rows moss stitch back and forth, begin mid front.
Then work as follows: Cast on 3 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows (for front bands) = 122-130-142-158 (170-190) stitches. Insert 1 marker after 32-34-37-41 (44-49) stitches in from each side. Move the markers upwards when working, they mark front pieces and back piece.
Now increase stitches mid front (i.e. in each side of piece) so that the front pieces overlap. Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side of piece (= 2 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP! Increase on every 4th row 3-2-0-3 (2-13) more times, then on every 6th row 8-11-16-17 (21-15) times (= 12-14-17-21 (24-29) stitches increased in total in each side of piece) = 44-48-54-62 (68-78) stitches on each front piece = 146-158-176-200-218-248 stitches in total.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK INSIDE 1 EDGE STITCH WHILE AT THE SAME TIME DIVIDING THE PIECE AND CASTING ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE.
DECREASE MID FRONT FOR NECK AS FOLLOWS:
Work over all stitches until piece measures 17-20-25-28 (32-34) cm = 6 3/4”-8”-9 3/4”-11” (12 1/2”-13 3/8”) from marker thread. Then decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch for neck in each side of piece (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this on every other row 20-24-27-31 (35-41) more times, then on every 4th row 2 times (= 23-27-30-34 (38-44) stitches decreased in total in each side of piece).
DIVIDE THE PIECE AND CAST ON STITCHES FOR SLEEVE AS FOLLOWS:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
When piece measures 21-26-30-35 (40-43) cm = 8 1/4”-10 1/4”-11 3/4”-13 3/4” (15 3/4”-17”) from marker thread, divide piece at the 2 markers and finish front and back piece separately. Adjust so that next row is from right side. Now work over stitches until first marker (= right front piece). Slip the remaining stitches on a stitch holder. Now cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of every row from right side as follows (NOTE: Continue to decrease inside 1 edge stitch at the beginning of row as before): Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve).
When all stitches are cast on and all decreases are done, there are 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm = 17 3/4”-21”-24 3/8”-27 1/2” (32”-35 1/2”) in total, measured from leg to shoulder. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work over the last stitches slipped on a stitch holder, until marker.
Work as right front piece but reversed - i.e. cast on stitches for sleeve at the end of row from wrong side. Continue to decrease inside 1 edge stitch at the end of row as before for neck.

BACK PIECE:
= 58-62-68-76 (82-92) stitches. Cast on new stitches at the end of every row in each side for sleeves as follows: Cast on 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches in 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times in total, then 17-17-16-16 (18-20) stitches 1 time in total (= 33-41-46-52 (60-68) stitches cast on in total for sleeve in each side of piece) = 124-144-160-180 (202-228) stitches.
When piece measures 44-52-61-69 (80-89) cm = 17 1/4”-20 1/2”-24”-27 1/8” (31 1/2”-35”) in total, bind off the middle 16-20-20-20 (22-24) stitches for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately (= 54-62-70-80 (90-102) stitches remain on each shoulder). Work like this until piece measures 45-53-62-70 (81-90) cm = 17 3/4”-21”-24 3/8”-27 1/2” (32”-35 1/2”) in total, measured from leg to shoulder, adjust according to front pieces. Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew overarm/shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches from right side.
Sew underarm seams together edge to edge in front loop of outermost stitches. Sew legs together inside 1 edge stitch, and sew the 5 stitches bind off between legs together. Sew vent up to where the 3 new stitches were cast on in each side for band stitches and sew the 3 band stitches in each side of piece to overall.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm = US C/2 with light beige around the entire opening mid front on overall as follows:
ROW 1 (= from wrong side): Begin mid front at the bottom of left front piece, work 1 single crochet in first stitch where 3 band stitches were cast on, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm = 3/8”, 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge), continue crochet edge around overall until corner where decrease for neck began on left front piece, work tie as follows: 1 single crochet in tip, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm = 8”-9 3/4”, turn and work 1 slip stitch in every chain stitch, then work 1 single crochet in tip on front piece again, work in the round until next tip (i.e. on right front piece), work tie, continue as before around the rest of overall down to where 3 band stitches were cast on, adjust to finish with 1 single crochet.
ROW 2 (= from right side): Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to work over ties so that the ties are under the edge, i.e. do not work in stitch in tie), finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet on previous row. Cut and fasten the yarn.

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm = US C/2 with light beige mix at the bottom around both legs as follows:
ROUND 1: Begin at the seam. Work 1 single crochet in first stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.

Crochet on hook size 2.5 mm = US C/2 with light beige mix at the edge around both sleeves as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in first stitch at the bottom of sleeve, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 1 cm = 3/8”, 1 single crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* (make sure to avoid a tight edge) and finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around first chain stitch, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around next chain stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet at beginning of round.
Then work 1 tie like the one in the tip on right and left front piece, on the outside of left front piece, under sleeve (i.e. in the side) and on the inside of right front piece – make sure that the ties are at the same hight as tips on front piece.

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BEGIN PIECE FOR HAT HERE:

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HAT:

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Loosely cast on (68) 80-92-96-104 (112-116) stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with light lavender.
Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for (2) 2-3-3-3 (4-4) cm = (3/4”) 3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” (1 1/2”-1 1/2”).
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and knit 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 8 stitches evenly = (60) 72-84-88-96 (104-108) stitches.
Continue with MOSS STITCH - see explanation above. When piece measures (9) 10-11-11-13 (13-14) cm = (3 1/2”) 4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-5 1/8” (5 1/8”-5 1/2”), work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. On next knit round decrease (6) 8-7-8-8 (8-9) stitches evenly. Repeat decrease every other round (i.e. every knit round) (5) 5-5-5-5 (6-6) more times (= (6) 6-6-6-6 (7-7) decrease rounds in total) = (24) 24-42-40-48 (48-45) stitches.
On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2. Purl 1 round and repeat decrease on next knit round in size 6/9 and 12/18 months and (2 - 3/4) years (do not decrease in the other sizes) = (12) 12-11-10-12 (12-12) stitches.
Pull a double yarn through the remaining stitches and fasten tightly.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.03.2019
Correction - OVERALL: Work 6 rows moss stitch back and forth, begin mid front.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (68)

country flag Paula 08.09.2021 - 17:57:

Ich stricke meistens nach Schnitt, leider ist keine cm-Angabe vom Makierer bis zum Zubinden. Lt. Ihrer Anleitung für Gr. 2: 6 R Perlmuster, 2 R, dann 2 x in der 4. R u 11 x in der 6. R sind insgesamt 82 Reihen, die ergeben aber keine 20cm, ich muss aber eine schräge Kante haben. Wenn ich von den 53cm minus 18cm Beine minus 20cm Zubinden bleiben keine 9cm Arm/Hals übrig, sondern 15cm. Ich möchte wissen, ab wieviel cm Länge muss ich abnehmen und wieviel Maschen habe ich dann.

user icon DROPS Design 09.09.2021 kl. 08:31:

Liebe Paula, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Damit alle Maßen wie in der Skizze stimmen, sollen Sie 24 M und 48 Reihen im Perlmuster = 10 x 10 cm haben. Leider können wir aber jeder Anleitung nicht nach jedem individuellen Frage bzw Maschenpnrobe anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Wenn sie Hilfe damit brauchen, wenden Sie sich bitte an dem Laden wo Sie die Wolle gekauft haben, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Inger W 06.07.2021 - 18:42:

Hei, har strikket bena og satt sammen. Det blir et hull midt foran. Har felt 5 masker., strikket 6 pinner og lagt opp 3 nye masker. Det skal vel ikke være sånn ? Hva er feil? \\r\\nHåper å få hjelp, har kjøpt garn på nett. \\r\\nMvh. Inger

country flag Renate 25.06.2021 - 12:50:

Vielen lieben Dank 🤗 jetzt ist mir alles klar

country flag Renate 24.06.2021 - 17:54:

Wunderschönen guten Tag. Habe baby talk angefangen, ist sehr gut erklärt, nur beim Teil "EINTEILER" bin ich verunsichert. Es steht geschrieben : in jeder 6. Reihe bei Grösse 68/74 17x 2 Maschen beidseitig zunehmen und maschen beidseitig zugenommen 54. Insgesamt maschen 176. (Ursprünglich 142 maschen) bei mir stimmt die rechnung nicht... bitte sind es nun nur 34 statt 54 Maschen zugenommen? Danke im voraus

user icon DROPS Design 25.06.2021 kl. 07:20:

Liebe Renata, es wurden 17 Maschen beidseitig zugenommen (= 1 M + 16 M in jeder6. Reihe = 17) - es waren davor 142 M + 17 +17 = 176 Maschen. Für jedes Vorderteil haben Sie jetzt insgesamt 54 Maschen (37 M vor den Zunahmen + 17 = 54 M) - (beim Rückenteil haben Sie immer noch 88 M wie zuvor). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Rebecca Bryce 05.06.2021 - 14:31:

Can i get this pattern in stocking stitch. Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 07.06.2021 kl. 03:43:

Dear Rebecca, please understand, that we cannot modify our patterns to each individual request. We do have a number of patterns for baabyl overals, look through them, and you might find something similar to what you are looking for. Happy Knitting!

country flag Cécile 17.05.2021 - 08:22:

Auch ich verstehe nicht, wie man das ganze im Schritt zusammennähet, besonders nicht, wie man den Schlitz zu den 3 Blendemaschen schließt. Ich habe mir die Erklärungen aus den vorangegangenen Fragen mehrfach durchgelesen, aber nicht verstanden. Haben Sie vielleicht Bilder, ein Video oder eine andere Formulierung? Mit den bisherigen Formulierungen bin ich nicht weitergekommen.

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2021 kl. 22:27:

Liebe Cécile, Sie nähen ja zuerst jedes Bein bis zu den abgeketteten Maschen zusammen, sodass Sie jeweils eine "Röhre" als Bein haben. Die je 5 Maschen, die Sie an beiden Seiten des Beins abgekettet haben, ergeben dann zusammen am oberen Ende des Beins 10 abgekettete Maschen. Es ist nun ein Schlitz zwischen den Beinen vorhanden, der von der Vorderseite des Einteilers zur Rückseite reicht. Diesen Schlitz nähen Sie nun zusammen, d.h. die 10 abgeketteten Maschen des einen Beins nähen Sie an die 10 abgeketteten Maschen des anderen Beins.

country flag Cecile 17.05.2021 - 08:07:

Ich habe noch eine Frage. Ich weiß nicht genau, wo ich das linke Vorderteil beginne. Wenn ich vom Rand zur Markierung an der Seite stricke, fehlt mir ja quasi ein Stück von der Hinreihe, und ich stricke zwei Rückreihen aufeinander. Und auf welcher Seite beginne ich das Rückenteil? Liebe Grüße!

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2021 kl. 22:36:

Liebe Cécile, Sie können das linke Vorderteil ab dem Markierer mit der Hin-Reihe weiterstricken (den Maschenanschlag für den Ärmel machen Sie am Ende der nächsten Rück-Reihe) und können auch beim Rückenteil mit der Hin-Reihe weiterstricken (die Ärmelmaschen werden am Ende jeder Reihe angeschlagen). Möglich ist es aber auch, beim linken Vorderteil ab der Rück-Reihe zu stricken - Hauptsache, Sie bleiben weiter korrekt im Perlmuster und schlagen die Maschen am Ende der Rück-Reihen an. Weiterhin gutes Gelingen!

country flag Cécile 13.05.2021 - 00:14:

Hallo Zusammen,\r\nich bin an der Stelle, an der solange abgenommen wird, bis die Arbeit eine Länge von 30cm hat (Größe 3) und dann das Ganze geteilt wird. Hier steht der Hinweis, dass weiter neben einer Randmasche wie zuvor abgenommen werden soll. Bisher wurde jeweils beidseitig abgenommen. Verstehe ich es richtig, dass nach dem Teilen nur noch auf einer Seite abgenommen wird, auf der Seite des Kragens?

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2021 kl. 07:47:

Liebe Cécile, ja ganz genau, nachdem die Arbeit in 3 Teilen verteilt wurde wird es für den Hals beim rechten Vorderteil am Anfang einer Hinreihe/beim linken Vorderteil am Ende einer Hinreihe abgenommen. Und jetzt schlagen Sie neuen Maschen für die Ärmel an, am Ende einer Hinreihe beim rechten Vorderteil/einer Rückreihe beim linken Vorderteil/beiseitig beim Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Barbara 08.05.2021 - 11:20:

Grüezi\r\nGibt es ein Video, wie ich den Einteiler umhäkeln kann

user icon DROPS Design 20.05.2021 kl. 08:35:

Liebe Barbara, solche Video haben wir nicht, aber hier finden Sie unsere Anleitungen für gehäkelte Overall. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Saskia 27.04.2021 - 14:59:

Die ANleitungen hier sind echt tolle. Aber mich wundern warum das meiste von unten nach oben gestrickt wird und nicht von oben nach unten, was viel einfacher ist, und es gibt nachher meist weniger zu vernähen. Ausserdem ist es viel leicht anpassungen an die Grösse vorzunehmen. Egal ob Pullover (Raglan von oben) Jäcke, Hose Latzhose oder Overall. Ich hatte letzens eine Latzhose nach Anleitung von unten nach oben gestricht und dann die gleiche von oben nach unten, kein Vergleich!

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