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  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
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  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 33
  6. 31

Baby Talk Pants by DROPS Design

Knitted pants with rib and hat with moss stitch for baby. The set is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino. Size: Premature to 4 years

Keywords: hat, newborn set, pants, rib, seed st, set, top down

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DROPS Baby 33-31
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-101-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
PANTS: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in feet:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

Finished measurements:
Waist measurements: (36) 40-44-50-54 (56-60) cm = (14 1/4”) 15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19 3/4”-21 1/4” (22”-23 5/8”)
Full length: (28) 34-38-44-48 (54-60) cm = (11”) 13 3/8”-15”-17 1/4”-19” (21 1/4”-23 5/8”)

All measurements in chart are in cm.

HAT:
Fits head circumference in inches:
(11”/12 1/2”) 13 3/8”/15” – 15 3/4”/16 1/2” – 16 1/2”/17 1/4” – 17 1/4”/ 18” (19”/19 3/4” – 19 3/4”/20 1/2”)
Fits head circumference in cm:
(28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm


MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(150) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g color 37, lavender
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PANTS:

Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in feet: (1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)
Size in cm: (40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

Finished measurements:
Waist measurements: (36) 40-44-50-54 (56-60) cm = (14 1/4”) 15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19 3/4”-21 1/4” (22”-23 5/8”)
Full length: (28) 34-38-44-48 (54-60) cm = (11”) 13 3/8”-15”-17 1/4”-19” (21 1/4”-23 5/8”)

All measurements in chart are in cm.

NOTE! Because of the rib the garment will be very elastic and will stretch compared to the measurements in chart.

Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 100-100-100-100 (150-150) g color 37, lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: Length 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 60 cm = 24”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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HAT:

SIZE: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Approx. head circumference:
(28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm = (11”/12 1/2”) 13 3/8”/15” – 15 3/4”/16 1/2” – 16 1/2”/17 1/4” – 17 1/4”/ 18” (19”/19 3/4” – 19 3/4”/20 1/2”)


MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g color 37, lavender

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 48 rows vertically in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 4.00 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP:
Increase on each side of 2 knit stitches by making 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch, and increase on the outside of the new stitches (i.e. do first increase on each side of 2 stitches, second increase on each side of 4 stitches etc.).

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, work 2 stitches together (in rib), work 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches) and then work 2 stitches twisted together (in rib)

GARTER STITCH (in the round - applies to hat):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

MOSS STITCH:
Round 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat 2nd round upwards.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PANTS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needles/double pointed needles, top down. Round starts mid back.

Cast on(88) 96-104-120-128 (136-144) stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Baby Merino. Insert 1 marker at beginning of round (= mid back) and 1 marker after (44) 48-52-60-64 (68-72) stitches (= mid front). Work rib from mid back as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with purl 2 and knit 1. When rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”, switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Now work an elevation in the back as follows: Work (7) 7-9-9-9 (9-9) stitches rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (14) 14-18-18-18 (18-18) stitches rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (20) 20-26-26-26 (26-26) stitches rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (26) 26-34-34-34 (34-34) stitches rib. Continue like this by working (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) stitches more on every turn until a total of (50) 50-66-66-82 (82-82) stitches have been worked. Turn, continue in rib in the round over all stitches. When piece measures (10) 12-13-16-15 (16-17) cm = (4”) 4 3/4”-5 1/8”-6 1/4”-6” (6 1/4”-6 3/4”) mid front, increase 1 stitch on each side of the middle 2 stitches front and back – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase every other round (8) 8-8-8-12 (12-12) times in total = (120) 128-136-152-176 (184-192) stitches. When piece measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm = (6”) 6 3/4”-7”-8 1/4”-8 3/4” (9”-9 1/2”) (increases are now done), bind off (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches mid front and mid back. Finish each leg separately, slip stitches for one leg on 1 stitch holder.

LEG:
= (48) 52-56-64-72 (76-80) stitches. Distribute stitches on 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and continue in rib in the round - insert 1 marker on the inside of leg. When leg measures 2 cm = 3/4”, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease every (4th) 6th-6th-4th-4th (6th-6th) round (4) 4-4-8-8 (8-8) times in total = (40) 44-48-48-56 (60-64) stitches. When leg measures approx. (13) 17-20-23-26 (31-36) cm = (5 1/8”) 6 3/4”-8”-9”-10 1/4” (12 1/4”-15 1/4”) (or desired length), loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Slip stitches from the other leg back on needle and work as first leg.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches that were bind off between legs together.
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BEGIN PIECE FOR HAT HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work the hat in the round, bottom up. Worked in the round on double pointed needles.

HAT:
Loosely cast on (68) 80-92-96-104 (112-116) stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with light lavender.
Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for (2) 2-3-3-3 (4-4) cm = (3/4”) 3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” (1 1/2”-1 1/2”).
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and knit 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 8 stitches evenly = (60) 72-84-88-96 (104-108) stitches.
Continue with MOSS STITCH - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When piece measures (9) 10-11-11-13 (13-14) cm = (3 1/2”) 4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-5 1/8” (5 1/8”-5 1/2”, work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. On next knit round decrease (6) 8-7-8-8 (8-9) stitches evenly. Repeat decrease every other round (i.e. every knit round) (5) 5-5-5-5 (6-6) more times (= (6) 6-6-6-6 (7-7) decrease rounds in total) = (24) 24-42-40-48 (48-45) stitches.
On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2. Purl 1 round and repeat decrease on next knit round in size 1/3, 6/9 and 12/18 months and (2 - 3/4) years (do not decrease in the other sizes) = (12) 12-11-10-12 (12-12) stitches.
Pull a double yarn through the remaining stitches and fasten tightly.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Mangerich Wilma wrote:

Stricke ich die Kraus-Rippe nach 11 cm Perlmuster, oder nach 11 cm ab Arbeitsbeginn.

23.02.2022 - 19:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Mangerich, messen Sie diese 11 cm von der Anschlagskante = gesamte Höhe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.02.2022 kl. 10:18

country flag Inger Adielsson wrote:

Stickar byxorna och jag förstår inte hur jag ska göra med rundstickor på 60 cm. I mitt tycke borde det vara 30 cm. 96 m på 60 cm går inte ihop.

18.11.2021 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inger, ribstrik er elastisk, men hvis maskerne ikke når rundt på 60 cm, kan du bruge en rundpind nr 40 eller strømpepinde. God fornøjelse!

19.11.2021 kl. 13:40

country flag Kerstin Lundman Carls wrote:

Förstår inte mössmönstret. Det beskrivs med räta och aviga varv på slutet, i min värld är alla varv räta när man stickar på strumpstickor. Är det verkligen rätstickning på toppen, kan inte se det på bilden?

02.09.2021 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kerstin. Er vanskelig å se på bildet, men når du er ferdig med perlestrikk, strikkes det omganger med rett, så vrang (avigt). På omgangen med rett strikkes masker sammen. I oppskriften står det forklaring på rätstickning = RÄTSTICKNING (stickas runt – gäller mössan): Sticka *1 varv rätt och 1 varv avigt*, upprepa *-*. mvh DROPS design

06.09.2021 kl. 14:08

country flag Bjørg Antonsen wrote:

Skal strikke ullbukse str 12-18 mnd i baby merino - og ønsker å ha ei strikk i midjen for å holde på plass buksa - når skal jeg evt ta det - hvor lang vrangbord før evt hull skal lages - og hvor ofte bør det være hull til å tre strikk i? Takk for svar

09.02.2021 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bjørg. Du kan ta en titt på noen andre baby oppskrifter som strikk/bånd i vrangborden og se hva du syns vil passe deg best. Ta en titt på f.eks BABY DROPS 33-12 eller 33-23. mvh DROPS design

15.02.2021 kl. 12:49

country flag Agneta Winroth wrote:

Hej! Jag försöker sticka mössan i mosstickning, men undrar om det inte ska vara ett ojämnt antal maskor? Jag får inte mönstret att stämma med 84 maskor för stl 1/3. Med vänlig hälsning Agneta Winroth

03.02.2021 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Agneta. Om du har et ujevnt maskeantall vil du få en helt naturlig overgang mellom rett og vrang masker hele veien rundt og opp. Selv om du har et jevnt antall masker vil du f.eks på slutten av omgangen med vrang og starte neste omgang med vrang over rett maske, og i et så tynt garn som denne luen strikkes i vil dette jevne seg ut. Men om du ønsker et ujevnt maskeantall kan du etter vrangborden felle 7 masker jevnt fordelt = 83 masker. Men da må du husk å kun felle 6 masker jevnt fordelt etter perlestrikken. mvh DROPS design

08.02.2021 kl. 15:37

country flag Jakobs wrote:

Bitte erklären Sie mir wie ich den Zwickel schließen kann. M.f.G. Ilona Jakobs

25.01.2021 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Jakobs, bei der Verteilung haben Sie je (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) Maschen an der vorderen und hinten Mitte abgekettet. Am Ende nähen Sie diese Maschen wie in diesem Video zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2021 kl. 14:07

country flag Liv-Gunn Strand wrote:

Fin oppskrift. Akkurat det jeg var på jakt etter.

09.11.2020 - 13:07

country flag Frederike Peters wrote:

Inderdaad zoals hierboven gezegd, het past niet op een rondbreinaald van 60cm. Aanpassen graag!

05.11.2020 - 12:10

country flag Suzanne Fletcher wrote:

Lovely pattern

08.05.2020 - 15:10

country flag Suzanne Fletcher wrote:

Lovely pattern

08.05.2020 - 15:09

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