Blue August by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater for children in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with raglan and double moss stitch on sleeves. Sizes 2-12 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-005-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12
Equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-250-250 g color 12, jeans blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 8.40 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 8.40 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 14) = 5.4.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 5th and 6th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

PATTERN (for sleeves):
See diagram A.1.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves as explained below:
Increase after the marker like this: knit 1, make 1 yarn over.
Increase before the marker thread like this: work until 1 stich remain before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 1.
You increase 2 stitches at each marked, and a total of 8 stitches on the round.
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch on front and back pieces and in A.1 on both sleeves.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, marker thread, knit 2 together (2 stitches decreased).
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER- SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches with short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and jeans blue. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (knit 2/ purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Knit 1 round where you increase 14 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE TIP = 90-94-98-102-106-110 stitches. Then work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Insert 4 markers in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The markers will be used when increasing to raglan.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round, count 13 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before the next stitch, count 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker before the next stitch, count 13 stitches (= sleeve) and insert 1 marker before the next stitch. There are 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches left after the last marker on the back piece.
The first round is worked as follows: increase for RAGLAN after marker– read explanation above, work A.1A over the next 10 stitches (= 5 repeats of 2 stitches), A.1B (= 1 stitch), increase to raglan on each side of marker, work stockinette stitch on front piece until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, increase to raglan on each side of marker, work A.1A over the next 10 stitches (= 5 repeats of 2 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch), increase to raglan on each side of marker, work stockinette stitch on back piece until 1 stitch remains before marker thread at beginning of round and increase for raglan before the marker (= 8 stitches increased).
Continue this pattern with A.1 on both sleeves, stockinette stitch on front and back pieces and 2 stitches in stockinette stitch along each raglan-line (1 stitch on each side of each marker). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 16-17-18-19-20-21 times on both sides of the 4 markers (including the first increase described above) = 218-230-242-254-266-278 stitches.
Continue the pattern without increasing until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm = 5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2” from the cast-on edge.
Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Start 1 stitch before the marker at the beginning of the round (i.e. slip the first stitch on right needle onto left needle), place the first 47-49-51-53-55-57 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (the 2 stitches in stockinette stitch in the raglan line are now part of the sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work 62-66-70-74-78-82 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), place the next 47-49-51-53-55-57 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work 62-66-70-74-78-82 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 136-144-152-160-168-176 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round until the piece measures 16-19-22-24-27-30 cm from the division (or to desired length; there is approx. 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” left to finished length). Knit 1 round where you increase 8 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 144-152-160-168-176-184 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sweater measures approx. 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm = 14 1/4”-15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”-20 1/2”-22” from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 47-49-51-53-55-57 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches. Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round by the marker thread and work A.1 in the round (make sure you start on the right row in the diagram to match where you stopped on the yoke).
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-2½-3-3½-4-4½ cm = 3/4”-1”-1 1/8”-1 1/4”-1 1/2”-1 3/4” a total of 8 times in all sizes = 37-39-41-43-45-47 stitches. Continue A.1 until the sleeve measures 20-24-27-31-34-38 cm = 8”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”-12 1/4”-13 3/8”-15” from the division (or to required length; there is approx. 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” left to finished length). Knit 1 round where you increase 3-5-3-5-3-5 stitches evenly spaced = 40-44-44-48-48-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib in the round (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 23-27-30-35-38-42 cm = 9”-10 5/8”-11 3/4”-13 3/4”-15”-16 1/2” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 34-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Pia 24.10.2020 - 17:03:

Modellen blir jättefin i Cotton Merino också, praktiskt garn för en barntröja. Barnbarnet älskar den och systern tyckte den var så fin att hon önskade sig en likadan. Jätterolig att sticka.

Candice Schacht 13.10.2020 - 00:03:

Is there an adult version of this sweater pattern? I love this!

DROPS Design 13.10.2020 kl. 11:41:

Dear Mrs Schacht, not exactly, but some are quite similar, eg: Simple Mind or Le Conquet Jumper and could inspire you; Happy knitting!

Pia 30.09.2020 - 08:50:

Har stickat flera tröjor uppifrån och ner och tycker det är blir bra och även fint med färre sömmar. Men ringningen blir alltid lite rak, skulle vilja ha den rundare. Är det möjligt och hur gör jag bäst då?

DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 10:10:

Hei Pia. Prøv å start, etter halskanten, med en forhøyning bak. Se evnt videoen: Hur man stickar en förhöjning mitt bak. God Fornøyelse!

Bonny Howe 29.09.2020 - 01:44:

I’m don’t have experience with diagrams so I don’t understand A.1A for the raglan sleeve

DROPS Design 29.09.2020 kl. 08:10:

Dera Mrs Howe, this lesson explains how to read knitting diagram - Diagram A.1 consits on double moss stitch in height shown in this video worked in rows. Happy knitting!

Lori Carlson 17.09.2020 - 00:30:

The pattern description says the sleeves are double moss pattern but the diagram is a 2-stitch repeat of k, p or alternately p,k. This seems like a single moss pattern. Are these directions correct? Thank you.

DROPS Design 17.09.2020 kl. 10:18:

Dear Mrs Carlson, A.1 is a seed stitch worked double in height - as shown in the video below. Happy knitting!

Margaretha 04.09.2020 - 19:43:

Hej, Jag stickade tröjan i garnet Karisma. Var trevligt att sticka med garnet, lite tyngre och tätare.. Barnbarnet som fick tröjan är en ivrig fiskare och det lite strävare garnet Karisma passade bra för ändamålet. Färgen är turkos-blå-grön. Ni har många fina och inspirerande beskrivningar. Tack för det.

Anna 28.05.2020 - 23:34:

Lavorando il primo giro delle maniche, se ho 57 maglie, un numero dispari, il motivo a grana di riso doppia nei primi 3 cm non esce perfettamente, perchè ho due punti consecutivi uguali prima e dopo il segnapunti. È corretto?

Marion Tbs 15.05.2020 - 15:23:

Bonjour, j'ai du mal à comprendre pas ce passage "Continuer ainsi avec A.1 sur les deux manches". J'ai bien compris comment faire le 1er tour mais pour les tours suivants à quel moment dois-je commencer A1 sur les manches ? Avec les augmentations autour des marqueurs, les indications données pour le 1er rang ne correspondent plus il me semble (10 premières mailles= A.1A puis la 11ème=A.1B) ? Merci davantage pour votre aide, Marion

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 16:22:

Bonjour Mme Tbs, les deux manches se tricotent en A.1 = point de blé. On répète A.1A et on termine par A.1B. L'augmentation avant le 1er A.1A va se tricoter comme la 2ème maille de A.1 et l'augmentation après A.1B va se tricoter comme la 2ème de A.1B, vous devez toujours avoir une alternance 1 m end, 1 m env sur 2 rangs puis 1 m env, 1 m end sur 2 rangs, même sur les nouvelles mailles. Bon tricot!

Danjou 09.04.2020 - 08:06:

Bonjour J’ai très envie de tricoter ce pull Je n’ai jamais tricoté un pull circulaire miles explications ont l’air précises

Angela 24.02.2020 - 18:48:

Hallo, unter den ärmeln habe ich ja je 6 zusätzliche maschen aufgenommen. je 2 von denen werden mit zu den ärmeln genommen, und was passiert mit den übrigen 4 maschen? gruß aus berlin

DROPS Design 25.02.2020 kl. 09:13:

Liebe Angela, wenn Sie die Arbeit teilen, werden die 6 neuen angschlagenen Maschen je zu der Seite gehören, Diese Runde endet mit den Maschen für den Rückenteil, bei der nächsten Runde stricken Sie die 6 neuen Maschen die Sie angeschlagen haben, dann die Maschen vom Vorderteil und die neuen 6 Maschen auf die andere Seite und mit Rückenteil enden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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