DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Coconut No. 516

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Daisy Delight Cardigan

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. DROPS Lima or DROPS Cotton Light. The piece is worked top down with flowers, colored pattern, garter stitch and stockinette stitch. Sizes 3-12 years.

DROPS Children 34-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-051-bn
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in feet:
3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 – 4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 64-68-74-76-78 cm = 25¼"-26¾"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"
Full length: 34-38-42-46-50 cm = 13⅜"-15"-16½"-18"-19¾"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350 g color 34, heather
50-50-50-50-50 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50 g color 30, mustard

Or use:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350 g color 6273, cerise
50-50-50-50-50 g color 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-50 g color 2923, goldenrod

Or use:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350 g color 17, dark red
50-50-50-50-50 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50 g color 28, yellow

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24".
Needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Coconut NO: 516,

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Children Children Cardigans Children Nordic Cardigans assembly free colorwork floral garter stitch nordic round neck round yoke stocking stitch top down

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Coconut No. 516

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 17) = 4.2.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together stitches 2 and 3 from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked after 1 cm = ⅜" on the neck and then the other 4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked every 6-6-6-7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾".
-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down, then the front and back pieces are worked back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 72-76-80-86-92 stitches with circular needle size 4 = US 6 and heather/cerise/dark red. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see description above. Knit 1 row where you increase 17-19-21-23-24 stitches evenly on row - READ INCREASE TIP-1! = 89-95-101-109-116 stitches on needle.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Insert a marker in this row and measure onwards from here. Work according to diagrams A.1 and A.2 from the right side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH, A.1 over 1 stitch, A.2 a total of 13-14-15-14-15 times on the row and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When diagrams A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 219-235-251-263-281 stitches on the needle. On the next row from the right side increase 3-3-5-1-5 stitches evenly on row = 222-238-256-264-286 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 15-15-16-17-18 cm = 6"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-7" from the marker. The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 31-33-36-37-38 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), place the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches under the sleeve, work 62-66-72-74-76 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), place the next 44-48-51-53-62 stitches on a new thread (= sleeve), cast on 6 new stitches, work 31-33-36-37-38 stitches (= front piece) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
There are 146-154-166-170-174 stitches on the needle.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6 new stitches cast on under each sleeve. Work stockinette stitch back and forth, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker (= 4 stitches increased) READ INCREASE TIP–2! Repeat the increase every 3-4-5-6-7 cm = 1⅛"-1½"-2"-2⅜"-2¾" a total of 3 times = 158-166-178-182-186 stitches on the needle. Continue working as before until the piece measures 12-16-19-22-25 cm = 4¾"-6¼"-7½"-7¾"-9¾". Work 1 row from the right side where you increase 10-10-10-10-10 stitches evenly on row (do not increase on the bands) = 168-176-188-192-196 stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 2, * knit 2, purl 2 *. Work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛". On the next row from the right side bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from one thread on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 (= 44-48-51-53-62 stitches) and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve (= 50-54-57-59-68 stitches). Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round for 2 cm = ¾". Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - READ DECREASE TIP. Continue with stockinette stitch and repeat the decrease every 4-3½-4-4-3½ cm = 1½"-1¼"-1½"-1½"-1¼" until you have decreased a total of 5-7-7-8-10 times = 40-40-43-43-48 stitches on the needles. Work stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 22-27-30-34-37 cm = 7¾"-10⅝"-11¾"-12⅜"-14½". Work 1 round and increase 4-4-5-5-4 stitches evenly on the round = 44-44-48-48-52 stitches. Work rib in the round with knit 2 / purl 2 for 3 cm = 1⅛". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten strand.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY: Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with heather/cerise/dark red
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side with heather/cerise/dark red
	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with off white
	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with mustard/golderod/yellow
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
	= on this row increases are made in the middle of the diagram, so pay extra attention so that the pattern is correct when working the next rows

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 1 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Daisy Delight Cardigan

Iris, France

Comments / Questions (37)

Gouteux wrote:

Bonjour je fais la taille 7/8 ans je viens de commencer j'ai fait les premiers rangs jusqu'aux augmentations et ensuite passer A1 etA2 apparement ilya plusieurs rangs de point mousse et je ne comprends pas les infos ,le nombre de rangs et combien de mailles entre A1 et A2

11.11.2024 - 11:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gouteux, lorsque vous avez augmenté après les 2 côtes mousse, vous avez 101 mailles que vous tricotez ainsi: 5 m point mousse, 1 maille comme indiqué dans le diagramme A.1, puis répétez maintenant 15 fois les 6 mailles du diagramme A.2 et terminez par 5 m point mousse, soit: 5+1+(15x6)+5=101 mailles. Sur l'envers, lisez le diagramme de gauche à droite. Augmentez comme indiqué dans A.2 = vous aurez 16 m dans chaque A.2 quand le diagramme est terminé, soit: 5+1+(15x16)+5=251 mailles. Bon tricot!

11.11.2024 - 12:48

Teresa wrote:

Per favore non capisco lo Schema!!! Mi potete spiegare meglio? Si legge dal basso verso l'alto? I ferri sono andata e ritorno? Grazie

10.11.2024 - 00:09

Buonasera Teresa, i diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra per i ferri di andata e da sinistra a destra per quelli di ritorno. Buon lavoro!

11.11.2024 - 16:31

Aud wrote:

Hva menes med: strikk A1 over 1 maske?

05.10.2024 - 21:35

Hej Aud. Då stickar du 1 maska enligt diagram A.1. Se mer om strikkediagrammer här. Mvh DROPS Design

09.10.2024 - 08:54

Cordelia wrote:

I am making the smallest size and just using one colour throughout. I can't work out the diagrams for how to do the increases with just one colour. I've done the 2 ridges, the first increase row, the following Knit row but am now stuck. Please help!

21.07.2024 - 20:38

Dear Cordelia, even if you work with one colour, the instructions are worked exactly the same. There are 2 charts A.1 and A.2 depending on the size you are working; for the smallest size choose the second ones. You will work the pattern as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over 1 stitch, A.2 a total of 13 times on the row and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. You can ignore the colours and simply knit or purl depending on the side you are working on. The only thing to account for is the black oval, which are increases. Please read the following lesson for more information: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=19. Happy knitting!

22.07.2024 - 01:32

Gill Corris wrote:

I am knitting the second size up and love the design. However, try as I might, I cannot get the increase mid-pattern row right (row 41 for me, marked with an arrow)- do I wrap the main colour yarn or the cream? The extra stitches show at the ends of the row, but the yarn overs are half way so the pattern ends up wrong. Please help!

07.05.2024 - 13:33

Hi Gill Gorris! You do yarn-over with same colour as previous stitch, which makes 1 more dark stitch next row. Flower will be like one before, just on the diagram white squares move aside because new stitch. Hope it helps!

07.05.2024 - 15:23

Helena Kuokkanen wrote:

Mitä tarkoitetaan ruutupiirroksella A1 ? Neulotaanko se aina kerroksen alussa ja sitten aloitetaan heti perään A2?

02.05.2024 - 17:29

Kyllä, piirroksen A.1 mallineule (1 silmukka) neulotaan oikean puolen kerroksen alussa/nurjan puolen kerroksen lopussa, etureunan sisäpuolella.

06.05.2024 - 17:22

Stéphanie wrote:

Bonjour, Je vais commencé le tricot du gilet mais je voulais savoir si je devais faire mon échantillon en rond ou bien à plat?! Merci. Cordialement. Stéphanie

21.03.2024 - 11:21

Bonjour Stéphanie, le gilet va se tricoter en allers et retours, vous pouvez ainsi tricoter votre échantillon en rangs, veillez juste bien à conserver la même tension pour les manches, quand vous tricoterez en rond (vous pouvez du coup en faire un en rond si vous pensez avoir une façon différente de tricoter). Bon tricot!

21.03.2024 - 15:52

Cathie Castaneda wrote:

Hello! Sleeve question- when knitting the sleeve, where do I do the measurements from? Is it along the underarm? I’m almost to the cuff.

25.02.2024 - 18:50

Dear Mrs Casteneda, measure along mid top on sleeve from where you started sleeve, ie from after the division. Happy knitting!

26.02.2024 - 09:33

Hello! I have a question regarding the Daisy Delight Cardigan. On the A.2 stitch chart, sizes 3/4-7/8, on the row that contains the last stitch increases (8 rows) from the top of the chart) there are two yarnovers that come between 2 colors of yarn. Which color do I use to do the yarnover with? The off-white or the heather? Thank you fir your help!

23.02.2024 - 03:03

Hi Cathie, You use the background colour (heather) both to make the yarn overs and to work the new stitches on the next row. This maintains the shape of the white pattern. Happy knitting

23.02.2024 - 07:18

Anna Kučerová wrote:

Dobrý den, prosím kterou řadou se začíná? Líc nebo Rub? ...Děkuji

27.12.2023 - 14:50

Dobrý den, Anno, 1. pletená řada je lícová. Přidávání (po dokončení 2 vroubků) je také v lícové řadě. Hodně zdaru! Hana

30.12.2023 - 09:01

Daisy Delight Cardigan

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. DROPS Lima or DROPS Cotton Light. The piece is worked top down with flowers, colored pattern, garter stitch and stockinette stitch. Sizes 3-12 years.

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a sweater top down

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How to measure your tension/gauge

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

From the #dropsfan gallery

Daisy Delight Cardigan

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 34-5

Comments / Questions (37)

Daisy Delight Cardigan

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. DROPS Lima or DROPS Cotton Light. The piece is worked top down with flowers, colored pattern, garter stitch and stockinette stitch. Sizes 3-12 years.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

@dropsdesign on Instagram

	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order