DROPS / 196 / 3

Daisy Delight Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL

  • Daisy Delight Cardigan / DROPS 196-3 - Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL
  • Daisy Delight Cardigan / DROPS 196-3 - Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL
  • Daisy Delight Cardigan / DROPS 196-3 - Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL
  • Daisy Delight Cardigan / DROPS 196-3 - Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern and garter stitch. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-058
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 41, plum
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 45, lemon punch
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 02, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, length 40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'' for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5, length 80 cm/32" for rib and edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 8-8-8-9-9-9 pieces

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Baby Merino 22, 04, 20.
B) DROPS Baby Merino 37, 41, 3.
C) DROPS Baby Merino 38, 46, 09.
D) DROPS Baby Merino 20, 39, 45.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 116 stitches), minus bands (= 5 stitches in each side of piece = 10 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 5) = 21.2. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 21st stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Work until 8 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 16 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle stitch on needle (= mid back). Begin from right side with plum and work in stockinette stitch until 8-8-8-9-9-10 stitches have been worked past marker, turn, tighten yarn and work 16-16-16-18-18-20 stitches in stockinette stitch. Turn, tighten yarn and work 24-24-24-27-27-30 stitches in stockinette stitch, turn, tighten yarn and work in stockinette stitch until 5 stitches remain on needle, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work 1 row from wrong side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 8 stitches increased on round): Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), make 1 yarn over. Repeat at the other marker threads. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 BUTTONHOLE = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease first buttonhole when neck edge measures 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 7-7-7-8-8-8 buttonholes, approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' apart.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 116-120-125-135-140-144 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with plum. Work 5 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, stockinette stitch until 5 stitches remain on needle, AT THE SAME TIME increase 5-11-16-16-21-27 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1, 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 121-131-141-151-161-171 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side. For better fit work an elevation at the back of neck so that yoke is somewhat higher on back piece. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - read ELEVATION. 
Insert 9-10-10-10-11-11 marker threads in piece without working as follows: Insert first marker thread after 12-11-12-12-10-10 stitches, insert each of the next 8-9-9-9-10-10 marker threads after 12-12-13-14-14-15 stitches, 13-12-12-13-11-11 stitches remain on row after last marker thread. Move the marker threads upwards when working. Now work pattern A.1 (choose diagram for your size) – read KNITTING TIP, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side, AT THE SAME TIME on every row with arrow in diagram increase on each side of marker threads as follows: REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
ARROW-1: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 139-151-161-171-183-193 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 157-171-181-191-205-215 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 175-191-201-211-227-237 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 193-211-221-231-249-259 stitches.
ARROW-5: Increase 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread (= 18-20-20-20-22-22 stitches increased) = 211-231-241-251-271-281 stitches.
When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm / 4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5½''-6''-6¼'' from cast-on edge and down mid front. Remove the marker threads. Now work pattern as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.2 (= 1 stitch), work A.3 until 5 stitches remain on row (= 20-22-23-24-26-27 repetitions of 10 stitches) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. On next to last row in A.2 and A.3 increase 10-11-12-14-11-11 stitches evenly = 301-330-345-361-386-400 stitches. When entire A.2 and A.3 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'' from cast-on edge and down mid front.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker thread after the first 50-54-56-60-65-69 stitches (= left front piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 55-62-66-66-68-67 stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 91-98-101-109-120-128 stitches (= back piece) and insert 4th marker thread after the next 55-62-66-66-68-67 stitches (= sleeve). 50-54-56-60-65-69 stitches remain on row after last marker thread (= right front piece).
Now work pattern A.4 with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side, at the same time on first row from right side begin increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Increase like this every other row 5-6-8-10-11-13 times in total = 341-378-409-441-474-504 stitches. NOTE: When A.4 has been worked vertically 1 time, continue with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side until all increases for raglan are done and piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11"-11 ¾"-12 ½" from cast-on edge.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 50-55-59-65-71-77 stitches in stockinette stitch (= right front piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 101-110-117-129-142-154 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve edges, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 50-55-59-65-71-77 stitches in stockinette stitch (= left front piece), 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! 

BODY:
= 231-250-269-293-322-350 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 60-65-70-76-83-90 stitches in from each side (there are now 111-120-129-141-156-170 stitches between marker threads on back piece). Continue with plum, stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from division, increase 2 stitches in each side - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this approx. every 2 cm / 3/4'' 12 times in total = 279-298-317-341-370-398 stitches. Work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
When piece measures 28 cm from division, increase 8-10-12-12-16-18 stitches = 287-308-329-353-386-416 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* back and forth for 2 cm / 3/4''. Work 2 ridges and bind off. Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 65-74-82-86-90-93 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 75-84-94-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve and begin round here. Continue with plum and in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-3rd round 13-17-21-22-23-24 times in total = 49-50-52-54-58-61 stitches. Continue until piece measures 40-38-37-35-33-32 cm / 15 ¾"-14 7/8"-14 ½"-13 ¾"-13"-12 ½" from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round while increasing 2-4-5-6-5-5 stitches evenly = 51-54-57-60-63-66 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Now work rib * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* in the round for 2 cm / 3/4''. Work 2 ridges and bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.04.2019
Correction - BODY: Work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* back and forth for 2 cm = 3/4".

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side with plum
symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side with off white
symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side with lemon punch
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side with plum
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = increase row - read explanation in pattern!
diagram
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Robinet 25.10.2021 - 03:30:

Bonjour Je fais une taille S , jusqu'au dernier étape pour les manches. Après avoir monté 10mailles sous la manche, elle devient 75 mailles. Quand l ouvrage est à 4cm, diminue 2 mailles, =73. Puis diminuer 13 mailles =60mailles. Question: pourquoi il vous reste 49 mailles à la fin, et non 60 mailles? Merci pour votre explication

user icon DROPS Design 25.10.2021 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Mme Robinet. Quand l'ouvrage mesure 4 cm, diminuer 2 mailles au milieu sous la manche - voir DIMINUTIONS. Diminuer ainsi au total (la premiere diminution inclus) 13 fois tous les 8 tours. Cela veut dire que vous diminuez 2 mailes 13 fois (=26 mailles diminuees). 75-26=49. Bon tricot!

country flag Sheela Wadalkar 23.09.2021 - 07:28:

I am knitting the medium sized cardigan. In the first row of the A 3 pattern, how do we increase 4 stitches in each of the 10 stitches? I see only 2 yarn overs in the first row of A3. Also, the 21st row shows two yarn overs. Have I understood the pattern correctly? Very confused. Please help,

user icon DROPS Design 23.09.2021 kl. 08:53:

Dear Mrs Wadalkar, yes correct, you first increase 2 sts on first row (with 2 yarn overs) and then increase one more time on the 21st row = each A.3 will be then 14 sts - on the next to last row in A.2/A.3 increase 11 sts evenly and you will get -330 sts. Happy knitting!

country flag Joanne Fox 14.07.2021 - 19:04:

I was just looking through the pattern (XL) at the end of the yoke it goes from 251 sts - add 14sts and suddenly there are 361 sts. Am I missing something or is the pattern wrong?

user icon DROPS Design 15.07.2021 kl. 09:44:

Dear Mrs Fox, after you have worked A.1 there are 251 sts, but then you work A.3 where you will increase as shown in diagram (= 24 repeats of 10 sts increased each to 14 sts = 24 x 4 increases = 96 sts increased + 251= 347 sts + 14 sts increased evenly = 361 sts. Happy knitting!

country flag Carine 13.09.2020 - 13:19:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les augmentations-2. Pour ma taille je dois faire 22 augmentations. Où dois-je les faire? Tout les combien de mailles? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 09:04:

Bonjour Carine, les augmentations-2 concernent les côtés du gilet (après la division de l'ouvrage pour les manches et le bas du gilet). Si vous devez augmenter 22 m aux rangs avec une flèche 1 à 5, vous augmentez de chaque côté de chacun des fils marqueurs (=vous avez 11 fils marqueurs = 1 m de chaque côté de ces fils marqueurs = 22 augmentations). Bon tricot!

country flag Sally Juras 22.02.2020 - 16:07:

Me again! I don’t understand how to work the rib at the bottom of the cardigan. *K1, 2 stitches in garter stitch* work from * to * That reads to me that you knit all the stitches? What am I missing here?

user icon DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 08:24:

Dear Mrs Juras, from RS you will knit all stitches but from WS, only the stitches in garter stitch will be knitted, the K1 from RS will be purled from WS. Happy knitting!

country flag Sally Juras 22.12.2019 - 12:54:

I’m working the medium size and just starting charts A.2 and A.3 Why does the pattern say to work 22 repeats of 10 stitches when the A.3 chart shows repeats of 12 stitches? I’m confused.

user icon DROPS Design 24.12.2019 kl. 17:55:

Dear Sally, the black square in the pattern means that there is no stitch there, and you should skip it. Without it there is 10 stitches in the 1st row of the A.3 pattern. Happy Knitting!

country flag María González 06.04.2019 - 18:43:

Hola. Voy a iniciar está labor. Es mi primer chaqueta con esta página. Mi primera pregunta es por qué al elegir la talla no se cual será más acertada si la XL O LA XXL. Me podrian decir que medidas de contorno de pecho y de cadera tienen estás tallas. Gracias.

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2019 kl. 20:48:

Hola Maria. Las medidas del contorno de pecho están en el diagrama bajo el patrón. Si tienes dudas al elegir entre dos tallas, recomendamos elegir la talla más grande. Recuerda que es importante mantener la misma tensión del tejido al trabajar la labor, para seguir las instrucciones del patrón.

country flag Laure 12.01.2019 - 23:11:

Bonjour, j'aurais une autre question. À la fin des explications pour le dos/devant, les dernières augmentations doivent t'elles se faire selon augmentation-2 ou elles doivent être réparties? Aussi, pour les côtes du dos/devant, je ne comprends pas qu'il fasse tricoter en rond. Et autant pour le dos que les manches, tricoter *1 m endroit, 2 m en mousse*, il me semble que ça donne que du point mousse, pas des côtes Merci

user icon DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 10:56:

Bonjour Laure, augmentez à intervalles réguliers (= AUGMENTATIONS-1). On ne tricote effectivement pas en rond (supprimé des explications, merci) mais bien comme avant en allers et retours. La m endroit des côtes va se tricoter à l'env sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

country flag Margaretha Astin Lind 07.01.2019 - 20:57:

ÖNSKAR mer utförliga stickmönster. Alla är inte experter. Jag stickar koftan 196-3. Här kommit till mönstret och måste riva upp ett varv då det inte står hur många maskor som ska stickas efter fem frsmkantamaskor. Det stårsticcka A2 1 maska, A3 tills det återstår 5 kantmaskor. Hur många maskor innan mönstret börjar?

user icon DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 15:29:

Hei Margareta. Etter at du har strikket A.1, strikker slik: 5 kantmasker i rille, A.2 (over 1 maske), så strikker du A.3 over alle maskene, til det gjenstår 5 kantmasker, som strikkes i rille. Altså: Etter at du har strikket A.2 over den første masken (etter kantmaskene) skal A.3 gjentas: 20-22-23-24-26-27 ganger. Det er 10 masker i A.3. Du strikker A.3 over 200-220-230-240-260-270 masker. God fornøyelse

country flag Laure 28.12.2018 - 21:16:

Bonjour, (1er jacquard!) pour la couleur "naturel", est-il préférable de couper le fil à chaque rang puisque la couleur est espacée de 11rang, ou de le faire suivre jusqu'au rang suivant? Y'a t'il une vidéo explicative pour ce type de patron? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2019 kl. 10:38:

Bonjour Laure, quand on tricote A.3 (= le jacquard), on doit faire suivre le fil à chaque rang, le motif va se tricoter sur l'endroit et sur l'envers (lisez les rangs sur l'endroit de droite à gauche en commençant en bas et les rangs sur l'envers de gauche à droite). Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter le jacquard de A.3 (avec un autre motif, mais répétez le diagramme en largeur le nombre de fois indiqué). Bon tricot!

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