Periwinkle by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke, multi-colored Nordic pattern and A-shape. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS 191-1
DROPS design: Pattern me-135
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 19, light gray blue
100-150-150-150-150-150 g color 01, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.


DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 for rib – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 30, 01.
B) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 01, 15.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 4.00 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 200 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 10) = 20.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 19th and 20th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Begin 5 stitches before marker thread in the side, knit 2 together, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 2 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if needed.
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SWEATER:
Body is worked in the round on circular needle, bottom up. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, bottom up. Then slip body and sleeves together and finish yoke in the round on circular needle.
An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - see explanation on elevation in pattern.

BODY:
Cast on 200-220-238-258-284-312 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light gray blue. Work rib as follows:
ROUND 1: Knit all stitches.
ROUND 2: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Repeat 1st and 2nd round until rib measures 3 cm / 1''. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 round while decreasing 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 190-210-226-246-270-298 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round and 1 marker thread after 95-105-113-123-135-149 stitches (= in the sides), move the marker thread when working.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 8 cm / 3 1/8'' 4 times in total in each side = 174-194-210-230-254-282 stitches.
Work until piece measures approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4'' in all sizes. Work next round as follows: Bind off 4-4- 5-5- 6-7 stitches for armhole, knit 79-89-95-105-115-127
stitches (back piece), bind off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches for armhole, knit 79-89-95-105- 115-127stitches (front side), and bind off the remaining 4-4-5-5-6-7
stitches for armhole. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 44-46-48-52-52-54 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light gray blue. Work rib as follows:
ROUND 1: Knit all stitches.
ROUND 2: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Repeat 1st and 2nd round until rib measures 3 cm / 1''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve) and move the marker thread upwards. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 9-7-9-7-9-7 cm / 3½"-2 3/4"-3½"-2 3/4"-3½"-2 3/4'', increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½'' 11-13-16-17-19-20 times in total = 66-72-80-86-90-94 stitches (switch to a short circular needle when there are enough stitches). Continue until sleeve measures 46-45-43-41-40-38 cm / 18"-17 3/4"-17"-16"-15 3/4"-15'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke).
Work next round as follows: bind off 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches, knit 58-64-70-76-78-80 stitches and bind off the remaining 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches. Put piece aside and make another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 274-306-330-362-386-414 stitches. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
Read KNITTING TIP! Begin round mid back where body is finished. Continue with light gray blue. Knit 1 round while decreasing 4-6-0-2-6-4 stitches evenly = 270-300-330-360-380-410 stitches - remember DECREASE TIP-1. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 1-2-3-3-4-6 cm / 3/8"-3/4"-1"-1"-1½"-2 ½'' from where body and sleeves were put together, work A.1 in the round (= 27-30-33-36-38-41 repetitions of 10 stitches). Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on row marked with arrow in A.1 decrease 10-0-10-20-20-30 stitches evenly = 260-300-320-340-360-380 stitches. NOTE! In size S and L decrease in the off white sections.
Now work A.2 in the round (= 13-15-16-17-18-19 repetitions of 20 stitches). Continue pattern like this and decrease as shown in A.2. When A.2 has been worked, there are 130-150-160-170-180-190 stitches on needle.
Now work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the neck edge if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round = mid back. Begin from right side with off white and knit 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches past stitch with marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 30-32-34-36-38-40. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 45-48-51-54-57-60, turn, tighten yarn and purl 60-64-68-72-76-80. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 75-80-85-90-95-100, turn, tighten yarn and purl 90-96-102-108-114-120, turn, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

NECK EDGE:
Knit 1 round with off white while decreasing 24-40-44-48-54-58 stitches evenly = 106-110-116-122-126-132 stitches. Switch to a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work rib as follows: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Continue rib like this for 3 cm / 1''. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Sweater measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.02.2018
The diagram symbols for off white and light greyblue have been corrected.
Updated online: 09.04.2018
Correction in diagram A.2A.
Updated online: 02.05.2018
The section regarding bind off for armholes has been corrected

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = light grey blue
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = decrease round
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

country flag Ruth Tenten wrote:

"1. RUNDE: rechts stricken. 2. RUNDE: * 1 Masche rechts, 1 Masche links *, von *-* bis Rundenende wiederholen. Die 1. und 2. Runde wiederholen, bis das Rippenmuster einer Länge von 3 cm hat. " Hallo, leider kann ich nicht direkt auf die Antwort reagieren. Ihre Antwort macht es für nicht klarer. In der Anleitung steht im Wechsel 1. Und 2. Runde stricken. Das hieße immer eine Runde nur rechts und dann eine Runde 1re/1li???? Bis zu der Länge von 3cm? Danke und viele Grüße

09.01.2023 - 16:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Tenten, ja genau so wird es gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.01.2023 kl. 09:39

country flag Ruth Tenten wrote:

Hallo, ich bin mir nicht sicher ob ich für das Bündchen wirklich abwechselnd eine Runde rechts und eine Runder rechts/links stricken soll? Kenne das bisher nur durchgehend in rechts/links...

08.01.2023 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Tenten, für das untere Kante stricken Sie ein Rippenmuster mit (1 Masche rechts, 1 Masche kraus rechts), so stricken Sie die 2 Runden wie beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.01.2023 kl. 10:32

country flag Mikaëla wrote:

Hej! Jag kan inte hitta mått för de olika storlekarna. Jag vet inte om jag sticka S eller M. Var står det? Hälsningar Mikaëla Lind

23.12.2022 - 19:55

country flag Malin Olsen wrote:

Hei! I oppskriften står det: Fell av 5 masker til ermehull, strikk 95 masker rett (= bakstykke), fell av 10 masker til ermehull, strikk 95 masker rett (= forstykke) og fell av de resterende 5 maskene til ermehull. Når jeg skal felle de 5 resterende maskene, får jeg ikke til det uten at det blir en maske igjen mellom de første fellede og de siste. Hjelp!

25.10.2022 - 22:40

country flag Henny Van Der Leer wrote:

Ik heb de mouwen en het lijf af en moet ze nu op 1 naald zetten. Dat lukt niet: de mouwen lijken te krap. Ik kan met geen mogelijkheid verder breien, ik heb het idee dat er meer steken afgekant moeten worden voordat de steken op 1 naald gezet worden. Graag jullie advies

01.04.2022 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Henny,

In het begin kan het erg krap zijn, maar gaandeweg als je verder breit met de pas krijg je meer ruimte. Het kan helpen om bij de overgangen de magic loop techniek toe te passen. Zie deze video. Na een paar naalden zul je zien dat het al makkelijker gaat.

04.04.2022 kl. 12:10

country flag Zoe Williams wrote:

Firstly, I absolutely love your patterns! I have recently finished Christmas Greetings, Ice Island and Stone Cables and am currently knitting Periwinkle. I will shortly be starting the yoke and unsure where to begin the round. Do I find the middle stitch of the back (I have an odd number of stirches) or do I start where the back finishes and the sleeve begins? I hope that is understandable! Thanks for your help. Zoe x

02.03.2022 - 09:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Williams, start yoke with the middle stitch on mid back, ie in the 45th stitch mid on back piece. Happy knitting!

02.03.2022 kl. 10:06

country flag Kate Grant wrote:

What size (in UK sizing) is Small and Medium please?

23.01.2022 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, please see the schematic draing at the bottom of the pattern, on which you can find teh finishd measurements (in cm). We suggets taking a sweater that fits the intended wearer and compare the measurements. Happy Stitching!

24.01.2022 kl. 00:40

country flag Suzanne Voyer wrote:

Pourquoi faire une réhausse ?

21.10.2021 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Voyer, une réhausse consiste à tricoter des rangs raccourcis à partir du milieu dos pour que la partie dos d'un pull/d'un gilet soit plus haute que celle du/des devant/s. cette vidéo montre comment procéder - suivez bien le nombre de mailles indiqué dans les explications du modèle. Bon tricot!

22.10.2021 kl. 07:11

country flag Mahsa wrote:

Hei. Jeg har begynt å strikke ermer med rund pinnetre, kan jeg forsette med det? har kommet ganske langt. Så nettopp at det stod settpinne 4.

22.08.2021 - 09:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mahsa, Da får du trangere ermer enn på bildet, så det er opp til deg om du fortsetter eller ikke. God fornøyelse!

23.08.2021 kl. 09:12

country flag Suzanne Voyer wrote:

Vous dites qu’il y a une correction pour le dos et le devant concernant les emmanchures. Je nevles vois pas et ça ne fonctionne pas avec le patron. Que dois-je faire ?

15.08.2021 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Voyer, si vous avez imprimé les explications après la date de la correction, alors la répartition des mailles à rabattre pour les emmanchures est correcte, autrement dit: on rabat 8-8-10-10-12-14 m de chaque côté, soit 4-4-5-5-6-7 m de chaque côté de chaque marqueur et on tricote 79-89-95-105-115-127 m pour le devant et le dos. Bon tricot!

16.08.2021 kl. 08:02

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