DROPS / 191 / 29

Periwinkle Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Nordic pattern and A-shape. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS design: Pattern me-134
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 19, light gray blue
100-150-150-150-150-150 g color 01, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 for rib – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 8-8-8-8-9-9 pieces

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 30, 01.
B) DROPS Merino Extra Fine 01, 15.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 211 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 10) = 20.1.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 19th and 20th stitch together. Do not decrease over bands.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Begin 5 stitches before marker thread in the side, knit 2 together, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 2 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP-1 (applies to bands):
When working pattern border with two colors on yoke, also work with base color in pattern border over the 5 band stitches in each side.

KNITTING TIP-2:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Use a larger needle size when working pattern if needed.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn): 1 buttonhole = knit second and third stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 3, 11, 19, 26, 34, 41, 49 and 56 cm
M: 3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 58 cm
L: 3, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52 and 60 cm
XL: 3, 12, 20, 29, 37, 46, 54 and 62 cm /
XXL: 3, 11, 19, 26, 34, 42, 49, 57 and 64 cm .
XXXL: 3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51, 59 and 66 cm
NOTE! Decrease the last of the 8-8-8-8-9-9 buttonholes approx. in the middle of neck edge.
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JACKET:
Body is worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front, bottom up. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, bottom up. Then slip body and sleeves together and work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front until finished measurements.
An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - see explanation on elevation in pattern.

BODY:
Cast on 211-231-249-269-295-323 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light gray blue. Work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 5, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain on row, purl 1 and finish with knit 5. Repeat 1st and 2nd row until rib measures 3 cm / 1''. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = 201-221-237-257-281-309 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 53-58-62-67-73-80 stitches in from each side = 95-105-113-123-135-149 stitches between marker threads on back piece and move marker thread upwards when working.
Purl 1 row from wrong side (knit bands). Then work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, in each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 8 cm / 3 1/8'' 4 times in total in each side = 185-205-221-241-265-293 stitches.
Work until piece measures approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4'' in all sizes. Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 45-50-53-58-63-69 (= front piece), bind off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches for armhole, knit 79-89-95-105-115-127 (= back piece), bind off 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches for armhole and knit the remaining 45-50-53-58-63-69 stitches (= front piece). Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 44-46-48-52-52-54 stitches on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light gray blue. Work rib as follows:
ROUND 1: Knit all stitches.
ROUND 2: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
Repeat 1st and 2nd round until rib measures 3 cm / 1''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve) and move the marker thread upwards. Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 9-7-9-7-9-7 cm / 3½"-2 3/4"-3½"-2 3/4"-3½"-2 3/4'', increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½'' 11-13-16-17-19-20 times in total (switch to a short circular needle when there are enough stitches) = 66-72-80-86-90-94 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 46-45-43-41-40-38 cm / 18"-17 3/4"-17"-16"-15 3/4"-15'' (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Work next round as follows: bind off 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches, knit 58-64-70-76-78-80 stitches and bind off the remaining 4-4-5-5-6-7 stitches. Put piece aside and make another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 285-317-341-373-397-425 stitches. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
Read KNITTING TIP-1 AND KNITTING TIP-2! Continue with light gray blue and purl 1 row from wrong side but knit the bands. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 4-6-0-2-6-4 stitches evenly = 281-311-341-371-391-421 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When piece measures 1-2-3-3-4-6 cm / 3/8"-3/4"-1"-1"-1½"-2 ½'' from where body and sleeves were put together, work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until 6 stitches remain on row (= 27-30-33-36-38-41 repetitions of 10 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on row marked with arrow in A.1A decrease 10-0-10-20-20-30 stitches evenly = 271-311-331-351-371-391 stitches. NOTE! In size S and L decrease in the off white sections.
Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A until 6 stitches remain on row (= 13-15-16-17-18-19 repetitions of 20 stitches), work A.2B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this and decrease as shown in A.2A. When A.2 has been worked, there are 141-161-171-181-191-201 stitches on needle.
Now work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the neck edge if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on needle = mid back. Begin from right side with off white and knit 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches past stitch with marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 31-33-35-37-39-41. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 46-49-52-55-58-61, turn, tighten yarn and purl 61-65-69-73-77-81. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 76-81-86-91-96-101, turn, tighten yarn and purl the rest of row (knit band).

NECK EDGE:
Knit 1 row from right side with off white while decreasing 24-40-44-48-54-58 stitches evenly = 117-121-127-133-137-143 stitches. Purl 1 row (knit bands). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work rib from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 6 stitches remain, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm / 1''. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.02.2018
The diagram symbols for off white and light greyblue have been corrected.
Updated online: 09.04.2018
Correction in diagram A.2A.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with off white
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side with light grey blue
= knit 2 together
= decrease row




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Emma 10.07.2019 - 23:05:

Hej. På bilden ser det ut som att de fem framkantmaskorna på vissa ställen är blåa. Enligt vad jag förstår av mönstret skickas de fem framkantmaskorna alltid i vit färg. Har jag missat något? :)

DROPS Design 11.07.2019 kl. 12:49:

Hei Emma. Du strikker stolpene i samme farge som resten av omgangen. God fornøyelse

VALLI AGNES 11.02.2019 - 14:09:

Impossible de réaliser le jacquard.Pas de problème pour le rang 1.La grille se lit-elle toujours de la droite vers la gauche,ou de gauche à droite,sur l'envers?La gille A1B est elle aussi valable en début de rang?Je réalise la taille M. Bien amicalement;merci.

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 15:58:

Bonjour Mme Valli, les diagrammes se lisent de bas en haut, et de droite à gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers, ainsi, quand, sur l'endroit, vous répétez A.1A et terminez par A.1B, sur l'envers, tricotez A.1B et répétez A.1A en lisant de gauche à droite. Bon tricot!

Turid Sæterli 27.09.2018 - 20:23:

Alle jakkene deres strikkes fram og tilbake. Kan en bruke samme oppskriften og bare legge til oppklippsmasker og strikke rundt?

DROPS Design 28.09.2018 kl. 07:50:

Hei Turid. Ja, det er ingenting i veien for at du strikker den rundt om du ønsker det. God fornøyelse.

Nikoletta 01.07.2018 - 09:24:

Köszönöm szépen, most már jól látszik minden! :-)

Nikoletta 02.06.2018 - 19:58:

Kedves Adminok! Szeretném elkészíteni ezt a kardigánt, de sajnos nem látom az ábrákat a leírás végén. Több böngészőt is kipróbáltam, de sajnos nem megy. Más minták esetén (pl. 191-21) nem tapasztalok ilyen problémát.

DROPS Design 01.07.2018 kl. 03:24:

Kedves Nikoletta! Köszönjük a jelzését, a technikai hibát elhárítottuk. Kérjük, próbálja meg újra, a diagramoknak, mintarajzoknak már látszaniuk kell. Sikeres kézimunkázást kívánok!

Bodil Larsen 23.05.2018 - 20:30:

Jeg får ikke mønsteret i A2 å stemme i Str S. Er det feil ?

DROPS Design 25.05.2018 kl. 13:56:

Hei Bodil. Jeg er litt usikker på hva du ikke får til å stemme. Men vi har nå regnet over mønsteret, og det er ikke noe feil med maskeantallet. Etter at A.1 er ferdig er det i størrelse S = 271 masker. Så strikkes 5 stolpemasker, A.2a over de neste 260 maskene (13 rapporter av 20 masker), A.2b over 1 maske, 5 stolpemasker = 271 masker. Mønsteret leses nedenfra og opp, fra høyre mot venstre på rettsiden og omvendt vei på vrangsiden. Fra vrangsiden strikkes det også i motsatt rekkefølge så diagrammene følges oppover. God fornøyelse

Jenny Iversen. 26.02.2018 - 11:28:

Der er fejl i opskriften. Når der skal strikkes mønster, er det byttet rundt på farverne. 🔲 skal være hvid og *️⃣ Skal være lys gråblå.

Françoise 25.12.2017 - 22:39:

Ce gilet a l'air très doux et très agréable à porter.

Kjersti Stenstad 19.12.2017 - 15:32:

Ser veldig ut som Bøvertun...

Elisabeth 17.12.2017 - 20:55:

Love it

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