Lucky Jack by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with raglan and cables in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size children 2 - 10 years

DROPS design: Pattern no me-021-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-500 color no 30, mustard

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
A.3 (= 52 sts) measures 17 cm / 6 3/4'' in width.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm / 16'' and 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for rib.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan on each side of marker in every transition between sleeves and body.
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS:
Beg 3 sts before marker and P 2 twisted tog, P 2 (marker is between these 2 sts) and P 2 tog (= 2 sts dec).
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 184-200-208-216-224 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round. Work next round as follows:
SIZE 2 + 3/4 + 7/8 YEARS: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 4-5-6 times in total, work rib according to diagram A.1 over the next 58 sts (= mid front), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12 times in total, K 2, work rib according to diagram A.1 over the next 58 sts (= mid back), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 4-5-6 times in total and finish with K 1.
SIZE 5/6 + 9/10 YEARS: P 1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 5-6 times in total, K 2, work rib according to diagram A.1 over the next 58 sts (= mid front), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 11-13 times in total, K 2, work rib according to diagram A.1 over the next 58 sts (= mid back), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* 5-6 times in total and finish with K 2 and P 1.
Continue rib like this until piece measures 5 cm / 2''.
Switch to circular needles size US 6/4mm and work next round as follows FOR ALL SIZES: K the first 17-21-23-25-27 sts and dec at the same time 3-5-5-5-5 sts evenly over these sts, work and dec according to A.2 over the next 58 sts, K over the next 34-42-46-50-54 sts and dec at the same time 6-10-10-10-10 sts evenly over these sts, work and dec according to A.2 over the next 58 sts, K the last 17-21-23-25-27 sts and dec at the same time 3-5-5-5-5 sts evenly over these sts. After A.2, there are 160-168-176-184-192 sts on needle.
Work next round as follows: 14-16-18-20-22 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.3 (= 52 sts), 28-32-36-40-44 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.3 (= 52 sts) and finish with 14-16-18-20-22 sts in stockinette st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When piece measures 22-25-28-31-34 cm / 8 3/4"-9 3/4"-11"-12 1/4"-13½", work next round as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, work the next 74-78-82-86-90 sts as before (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work the next 74-78-82-86-90 sts as before (= back piece) and bind off the last 3 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 32-36-40-44-44 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 until piece measures 5 cm / 2''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stockinette st. When piece measures 6-8-8-8-7 cm / 2½"-3"-3"-3"-2 3/4", inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 2-2-2½-2½-2½ cm / 3/4"-3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8" a total of 10-10-10-11-13 times = 52-56-60-66-70 sts. When piece measures 26-29-32-36-39 cm / 10 1/4"-11½"-12½"-14 1/4"-15 1/4", bind off the middle 6 sts mid under sleeve = 46-50-54-60-64 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off (without working them first) = 240-256-272-292-308 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece = 4 markers. Continue in the round with stockinette st and pattern as before.
AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec for RAGLAN in every transition between body and sleeves – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec for raglan every other round a total of 14-16-16-17-17 times and then every round a total of 3-3-5-7-9 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 32-35-39-42-46 cm / 12½"-13 3/4"-15 1/4"-16½"-18", slip the middle 28-26-26-20-20 sts mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work sts before slipping them on the stitch holder). Then finish piece back and forth on circular needle from mid front and bind off for neck at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2 times.
After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, 70-70-70-68-68 sts remain on needle.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 approx. 104-104-104-100-100 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holder at the front). P 1 round. Then K 1 round while dec evenly to 60-68-76-80-88 sts. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm / 1'', then bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 28.08.2015
Correction: New diagram A.3.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P for WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, k 3, K 1 from cable needle
= slip 3 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 3 from cable needle



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 26-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (53)

Galla 17.12.2019 - 12:52:

Bonjour Comment tricoter ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites ? Merci pour votre aide

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 15:03:

Bonjour Galla, vous trouverez ici, quelques informations sur l'adaptation d'un modèle pour des aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

Monique Anchelin Flageul 22.11.2019 - 22:23:

Perdón, esto espesa hoy...ya no tengo dudas gracias perdone

Monique Anchelin Flageul 22.11.2019 - 22:21:

Perdón, hago una rectificación, solo me queda duda por las medidas de las mangas Gracias

Monique Anchelin Flageul 22.11.2019 - 22:19:

Tengo bastante confusión con las medidas en cm del patrón para la talla 3 años. Con el cuerpo nos dicen de menguar y dejar en espera la labor a 25 cm total de la labor pero eso no corresponde a los cm del dibujo del patrón.IgIualmente para las mangas, nos dicen de menguar a 29cm de la labor si miramos el dibujo indica 24cm.... Gracias

Monique Anchelin Flageul 12.11.2019 - 16:47:

¿Que significa MP en las explicaciones? Gracias

DROPS Design 12.11.2019 kl. 17:33:

Hola Monique. MP significa marcapuntos.

Brigitte BOSS 04.11.2019 - 23:11:

Ist das Rapport Muster beidseitig also auch auf dem Rücken

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 08:51:

Liebe Frau Boss, ja genau, das Muster (= A.1, A.2 und dann A.3) wird auf die mittleren Maschen am Vorder- bzw am Rücktenteil gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anonym 16.10.2019 - 12:07:

Hei! Jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal felle til hals i denne oppskriften. Skal jeg felle i begynnelsen og slutten av hver pinne eller felle i begynnelsen av pinnen, snu arbeidet og felle i begynnelsen av neste pinne? Hva mener dere med «videre felles til hals på beg av hver p i hver side slik: fell av 2 m 1-1-1-2-2 ganger og 1 m 1-2-2-2-2 ganger» strikker i strl 3/4 år.

DROPS Design 16.10.2019 kl. 16:10:

Hej, ja det stemmer, du feller i begyndelsen af hver pind, altså hver gang du snur arbejdet. Først 2 m 1 gang i hver side og så 1 maske 2 gange i hver side. God fornøjelse!

Veronique Preston 14.09.2019 - 23:53:

For the yoke, after doing the bind offs and have 70sts on needle when changing to 3.5mm needles it says 104 sts... Well from the 70 left on needle + 26 from st holder, I only have 96sts on my needle.. where do I get the additional 8sts? Also, for the raglan it says to do DCs 16 times and then 3 more times consecutively but in order to get the 70 sts at the end I had to do 3 more DCs before reaching the neckline. Please add it to the pattern for future knitters?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 10:02:

Dear Mrs Preston, you decrease 8 stitches a total of 16 times on every other round + 3-5 times on every round (= 152-168 sts dec for raglan) and for neck, you slip 26 sts for the neck on a thread + cast off for neck on each side 2 sts 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times (= 26+ 4 sts x 2 sides = 34 sts for neck), there should be 256-272 at the beg of yoke - 152-168 sts dec for raglan - 34-34 sts dec for neck = 70 sts remain for raglan and for neck. You then pick up 34 sts (= the 26 sts from thread + 8 sts on each side) = 104 sts for neck. Happy knitting!

Tara Schanssema 25.08.2019 - 20:20:

Volgens mij klopt dit patroon niet..ik heb nu een pand gebreid en ziet er anders uit.. ook goed..maar niet hetzlefde

Seemal 12.02.2019 - 14:59:

Can someone post a video on how to start tbe first line of tbe cable design.Its a little confusing.

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 08:02:

Hi Seemal, I can write the first line for you (row 3 in A.3 which is from the right side and read from right to left): K1, P1, place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K3 and K3 from cable needle, P1, K3, P1, place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K2 and K2 from cable needle, P6, place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K3 and K3 from cable needle, P6, place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K2 and K2 from cable needle, P1, K3, P1, place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K3 and K3 from cable needle, P1, K1. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

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