Lucky Jack by DROPS Design

Dětský raglánový pulovr s copánkovým vzorem pletený z příze DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Velikost: 2 roky – 10 let.

DROPS design: model č. me-021-bn
Skupina přízí: B
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Velikost: 2 - 3/4 roky - 5/6 – 7/8 – 9/10 let
Velikost v cm: 92- 98/104 - 110/116 -122/128 – 134/140

Materiál: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE firmy Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-500 g, barva č.30, zlatá

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE (60 cm) č. 4 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 21 ok x 28 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.
1 sekvence vzoru A.3 (= 52 ok) měří na šířku 17 cm.
DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a KRUHOVÉ JEHLICE (40 a 60 cm) č. 3,5 – na lemy.

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100% vlna
od 96.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 96.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 96.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 576Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 až A.3; zobrazeny jsou všechny řady vzoru nahlížené z lícové strany.

RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ:
Pro vytvarování raglánového zkosení průramků ujímáme na každé straně každé značky, která označuje „šev“ mezi trupem a rukávem.
Z LÍCOVÉ STRANY ujímáme takto – začínáme 3 oka před značkou:
2 oka spleteme hladce, 2 oka upleteme hladce (značka leží mezi nimi), 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme (= ujmuli jsme 2 oka).
Z RUBOVÉ STRANY ujímáme takto – začínáme 3 oka před značkou:
2 oka spleteme obrace za zadní nit, 2 oka upleteme obrace (značka leží mezi nimi), 2 oka spleteme obrace (= ujmuli jsme 2 oka).
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PULOVR

TRUP:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici.
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3,5 nahodíme přízí Merino Extra Fine 184-200-208-216-224 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Následující kruhovou řadu pleteme takto:
VELIKOST 2 + 3/4 roky + 7/8 let: 1 oko hladce, *2 oka obrace, 2 hladce*, *-* opakujeme celkem 4-5-6x, následujících 58 ok pleteme vzorem A.1 (= střed předního dílu), *2 oka hladce, 2 obrace*, *-* opakujeme celkem 8-10-12x, 2 oka hladce, následujících 58 ok pleteme vzorem A.1 (= střed zadního dílu), *2 oka hladce, 2 obrace*, *-* opakujeme celkem 4-5-6x a končíme 1 okem hladce.
VELIKOST 5/6 + 9/10 let: 1 oko obrace, *2 oka hladce, 2 obrace*, *-* opakujeme celkem 5-6x, pak 2 oka hladce, následujících 58 ok pleteme vzorem A.1 (= střed předního dílu), *2 oka hladce, 2 obrace*, *-* opakujeme celkem 11-13x, 2 oka hladce, následujících 58 ok pleteme vzorem A.1 (= střed zadního dílu), *2 oka hladce, 2 obrace*, *-* opakujeme celkem 5-6x a končíme 2 oky hladce a 1 okem obrace.
V tomto rozvržení pleteme pružným vzorem do výše 5 cm.
Pro VŠECHNY VELIKOSTI pleteme následující kruhovou řadu takto: nad prvními 17-21-23-25-27 oky pleteme hladce a SOUČASNĚ nad těmito oky ujmeme rovnoměrně 3-5-5-5-5 ok, nad následujícími 58 oky pleteme a ujímáme podle schématu A.2, nad dalšími 34-42-46-50-54 oky pleteme hladce a SOUČASNĚ nad nimi rovnoměrně ujmeme 6-10-10-10-10 ok, nad následujícími 58 oky pleteme a ujímáme podle schématu A.2, nad posledními 17-21-23-25-27 oky pleteme hladce a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 3-5-5-5-5 ok. Po dokončení vzoru A.2 máme na jehlici 160-168-176-184-192 ok.
Další kruhovou řadu pleteme takto: 14-16-18-20-22 ok lícovým žerzejem, vzor A.3 (= 52 ok), 28-32-36-40-44 ok lícovým žerzejem, vzor A.3 (= 52 ok) a končíme 14-16-18-20-22 oky lícovým žerzejem. V tomto rozvržení vzorů pokračujeme.
Ve výši 22-25-28-31-34 cm pleteme následující kruhovou řadu takto: uzavřeme 3 oka (= průramek), následujících 74-78-82-86-90 ok pleteme jako dosud (= přední díl), 6 ok uzavřeme (= průramek), dalších 74-78-82-86-90 ok pleteme jako dosud (= zadní díl) a poslední 3 oka uzavřeme (= průramek). Díl odložíme a upleteme rukávy.

RUKÁV:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích.
Na ponožkové jehlice č.3,5 nahodíme přízí Merino Extra Fine 32-36-40-44-44 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Pak pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2 (tj. střídáme 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace) až do výše 5 cm. Pleteninu převedeme na ponožkové jehlice č.4 a pleteme lícovým žerzejem. Ve výši 6-8-8-8-7 cm přidáme uprostřed vnitřní strany rukávu 2 oka. Toto přidávání opakujeme vždy po 2-2-2,5-2,5-2,5 cm výšky celkem 10-10-10-11-13x = 52-56-60-66-70 ok. Ve výši 26-29-32-36-39 cm uzavřeme uprostřed vnitřní strany rukávu 6 ok = na jehlici zbývá 46-50-54-60-64 ok. Díl odložíme a stejným způsobem upleteme druhý rukáv.

SEDLO:
Rukávy a trup převedeme na stejnou kruhovou jehlici (rukávy přiložíme k trupu v místech uzavřených pro průramky) – díly pouze sesadíme, zatím nepleteme = na jehlici máme 240-256-272-292-308 ok. Označíme si všechna místa, kde se stýkají rukávy s trupem = 4 značky. Pokračujeme v kruhových řadách lícovým žerzejem a vzorem jako dosud.
SOUČASNĚ v 1. kruhové řadě začneme tvarovat RAGLÁNOVÉ ZKOSENÍ – v každém označeném místě ujmeme na obou stranách značky 1 oko – viz výše (= ujmeme 8 ok). Toto ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě, a to celkem 14-16-16-17-17x a pak v každé kruhové řadě, celkem 3-3-5-7-9x.
SOUČASNĚ ve výši 32-35-39-42-46 cm odložíme prostředních 28-26-26-20-20 ok předního dílu na 1 pomocnou jehlici (= průkrčník; oka před odložením upleteme). Díly dokončíme v řadách na kruhové jehlici – pleteme předního okraje dílu a tvarujeme průkrčník: uzavřeme vždy na začátku každé řady 1-1-1-2-2x 2 oka a 1-2-2-2-2x 1 oko.
Po dokončen veškerého ujímání raglánu i průkrčníku zbývá na jehlici 70-70-70-68-68 ok.

LEM PRŮKRČNÍKU:
Kruhovou jehlicí č.3,5 nabereme z lícové strany z okraje průkrčníku asi 104-104-104-100-100 ok (včetně odložených ok z pomocné jehlice) a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu obrace. Pak pleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně potřebný počet ok na výsledných 60-68-76-80-88 ok. Poté pleteme pružným vzorem 2/2. Když je lem vysoký 3 cm, všechna oka dle vzoru uzavřeme.

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme otvory v podpaží.

Schéma

= lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
= rubový žerzej (líc obrace, rub hladce)
= 2 oka spleteme hladce
= 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 2 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
= 3 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 3 oka upleteme hladce, 3 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
= 3 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 3 oka upleteme hladce, 3 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
= 1 oko odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 3 oka upleteme hladce, 1 oko z pom.jehlice hladce
= 3 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 1 oko upleteme hladce, 3 oka z pom.jehlice hladce



Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS Children 26-3) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (52)

Monique Anchelin Flageul 22.11.2019 - 22:23:

Perdón, esto espesa hoy...ya no tengo dudas gracias perdone

Monique Anchelin Flageul 22.11.2019 - 22:21:

Perdón, hago una rectificación, solo me queda duda por las medidas de las mangas Gracias

Monique Anchelin Flageul 22.11.2019 - 22:19:

Tengo bastante confusión con las medidas en cm del patrón para la talla 3 años. Con el cuerpo nos dicen de menguar y dejar en espera la labor a 25 cm total de la labor pero eso no corresponde a los cm del dibujo del patrón.IgIualmente para las mangas, nos dicen de menguar a 29cm de la labor si miramos el dibujo indica 24cm.... Gracias

Monique Anchelin Flageul 12.11.2019 - 16:47:

¿Que significa MP en las explicaciones? Gracias

DROPS Design 12.11.2019 kl. 17:33:

Hola Monique. MP significa marcapuntos.

Brigitte BOSS 04.11.2019 - 23:11:

Ist das Rapport Muster beidseitig also auch auf dem Rücken

DROPS Design 05.11.2019 kl. 08:51:

Liebe Frau Boss, ja genau, das Muster (= A.1, A.2 und dann A.3) wird auf die mittleren Maschen am Vorder- bzw am Rücktenteil gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anonym 16.10.2019 - 12:07:

Hei! Jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal felle til hals i denne oppskriften. Skal jeg felle i begynnelsen og slutten av hver pinne eller felle i begynnelsen av pinnen, snu arbeidet og felle i begynnelsen av neste pinne? Hva mener dere med «videre felles til hals på beg av hver p i hver side slik: fell av 2 m 1-1-1-2-2 ganger og 1 m 1-2-2-2-2 ganger» strikker i strl 3/4 år.

DROPS Design 16.10.2019 kl. 16:10:

Hej, ja det stemmer, du feller i begyndelsen af hver pind, altså hver gang du snur arbejdet. Først 2 m 1 gang i hver side og så 1 maske 2 gange i hver side. God fornøjelse!

Veronique Preston 14.09.2019 - 23:53:

For the yoke, after doing the bind offs and have 70sts on needle when changing to 3.5mm needles it says 104 sts... Well from the 70 left on needle + 26 from st holder, I only have 96sts on my needle.. where do I get the additional 8sts? Also, for the raglan it says to do DCs 16 times and then 3 more times consecutively but in order to get the 70 sts at the end I had to do 3 more DCs before reaching the neckline. Please add it to the pattern for future knitters?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 10:02:

Dear Mrs Preston, you decrease 8 stitches a total of 16 times on every other round + 3-5 times on every round (= 152-168 sts dec for raglan) and for neck, you slip 26 sts for the neck on a thread + cast off for neck on each side 2 sts 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times (= 26+ 4 sts x 2 sides = 34 sts for neck), there should be 256-272 at the beg of yoke - 152-168 sts dec for raglan - 34-34 sts dec for neck = 70 sts remain for raglan and for neck. You then pick up 34 sts (= the 26 sts from thread + 8 sts on each side) = 104 sts for neck. Happy knitting!

Tara Schanssema 25.08.2019 - 20:20:

Volgens mij klopt dit patroon niet..ik heb nu een pand gebreid en ziet er anders uit.. ook goed..maar niet hetzlefde

Seemal 12.02.2019 - 14:59:

Can someone post a video on how to start tbe first line of tbe cable design.Its a little confusing.

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 08:02:

Hi Seemal, I can write the first line for you (row 3 in A.3 which is from the right side and read from right to left): K1, P1, place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K3 and K3 from cable needle, P1, K3, P1, place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K2 and K2 from cable needle, P6, place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K3 and K3 from cable needle, P6, place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K2 and K2 from cable needle, P1, K3, P1, place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, K3 and K3 from cable needle, P1, K1. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

Rushd Nakade 21.01.2019 - 13:24:

Am wondering after joining sleeves with body , how to do back n forth with pattern as after raglan decrease started it will close all opening n it has to be worked on round right? please correct if am doing something wrong

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 16:22:

Dear Mrs Rushd, after you have slipped the sts from neck on front piece on a thread, jusst continue back and forth (make sure that the cable rows will still be worked from RS) starting rows now from neck and decreasing as before for raglan cast off for neck as explain for the size at the beg of every row both from RS and from WS (= each side of the middle sts for neck). Happy knitting!

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