Charming Cooper by DROPS Design

Set of knitted jacket with cables and shawl collar, hat with pompom and bow in DROPS Karisma. Size children 3 - 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-068-bn
Yarn group B
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JACKET:
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 – 7/8 – 9/10 - 11/12 years
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550 g color no 55, light beige brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - for rib.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-8-8 pieces

HAT:
Size: 6 months/1 year - 2/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 10/12 years
Fits head circumference: approx. 42/44 - 48/50 - 50/52 - 53/54 - 55/56 cm / 16"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-22"
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-50-100-100-100 g color no 18, red
50 g for all sizes in color no 01, off white.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 (40 cm / 16'') - for garter st.

BOW:
Measurements: approx. 5 x 8 cm / 2" x 3''
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50 g color no 18, red (bow weighs approx. 6 g).

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
ACCESSORY: Silk ribbon or elastic for fastening the bow.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. See diagram for your size! The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
The jacket is double-breasted. Dec for 6-6-6-8-8 buttonholes on left band. Dec for buttonholes at the end of a row from RS.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog fourth and fifth st on band and make 1 YO. On same row also K tog fourth and fifth LAST st on band, make 1 YO.
Dec for 2 buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 3/4 years: 10, 18 and 26 cm / 4", 7" and 10 1/4"
SIZE 5/6 years: 14, 22 and 30 cm / 5½", 8 3/4" and 11 3/4"
SIZE 7/8 years: 16, 25 and 34 cm / 6 1/4", 9 3/4" and 13½"
SIZE 9/10 years: 11, 20, 29 and 38 cm / 4½", 8" 11½" and 15"
SIZE 11/12 years: 15, 24, 33 and 42 cm / 6", 9½", 13" and 16½".
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 186-198-206-214-226 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. Work as follows: 18-20-20-22-24 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= band), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 18-20-20-22-24 sts in garter st ( = band). Work rib until piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, then P 1 row from WS (continue band in garter st), AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 184-196-202-214-224 sts. Work next row as follows - from RS: 18-20-20-22-24 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 28-28-28-32-32 sts - see diagram for your size), 32-36-39-37-40 sts in stockinette st, A.1, 32-36-39-37-40 sts in stockinette st, A.1, finish with 18-20-20-22-24 sts in garter st. NOTE: For every 8th ridge work short rows over band as follows: K 18-20-20-22-24 sts, turn and K back 18-20-20-22-24 sts, work 1 row over all sts. Turn and K 18-20-20-22-24 sts, turn and K back 18-20-20-22-24 sts. K 1 row over all sts.
Continue the pattern like this. Dec for BUTTONHOLES on left band - see explanation above. When piece measures 31-34-37-40-43 cm / 12 1/4"-13½"-14½"-15 3/4"-17", work as follows - from RS (continue pattern as before): Work 50-54-55-59-62 sts (= right front piece), bind off the next 6 sts for armhole, work 72-76-80-84-88 sts (= back piece), bind off the next 6 sts for armhole, work 50-54-55-59-62 sts (= left front piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 72-76-80-84-88 sts. Continue pattern as before. Then bind off for armholes in each side at beg of every row as follows: 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 2-2-3-1-2 times = 64-64-66-74-76 sts. When piece measures 42-46-50-54-58 cm / 16½"-18"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4", dec 10 sts evenly over A.1, on next row bind off the middle 16-16-18-18-20 sts for neck and finish each side separately. Then bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 18-18-18-22-22 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 44-48-52-56-60 cm / 17 1/4"-19"-20½"-22"-23½".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 50-54-55-59-62 sts. Continue pattern as before. Bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 46-48-48-54-56 sts. When piece measures 43-47-51-55-59 cm / 17"-18½"-20"-21½"-23 1/4", dec 10 sts evenly over A.1. On next row from RS, bind off the first 18-18-18-22-22 sts = 18-20-20-22-24 sts remain on needle (= band). Continue in garter st over all sts on band, and work short rows as follows, beg from RS: * Work the first 9-10-10-11-12 sts, turn and work back, work over all sts, turn and work back *, repeat from *-* until band measures 7-8-9-10-11 cm / 2 3/4"-3"-3½"-4"-4½" from shoulder (measures at the shortest). Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 50-54-55-59-62 sts. Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 44-44-48-48-52 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-0-2-2-4 sts evenly = 44-44-46-46-48 sts. Then work as follows: 13-13-14-14-15 sts in stockinette st, A.2 (= 18 sts), 13-13-14-14-15 sts in stockinette st. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 6-6-5-5-5 cm / 2½"-2½"-2"-2"-2", inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 4½-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm / 1 3/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" 6-8-9-11-12 times in total = 56-60-64-68-72 sts. When piece measures 30-34-39-42-46 cm / 11 3/4"-13½"-15 1/4"-16½"-18", bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve. Then work sleeve back and forth and dec for sleeve cap in each side as follows: Dec 2 sts in each side until piece measures 34-39-44-47-52 cm / 13½"-15 1/4"-17 1/4"-18½"-20½". Bind off 3 sts in each side, then bind off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 35-40-45-48-53 cm / 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 3/4"-19"-21". Knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew band tog mid back and sew on to neck line at the back of neck.

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HAT:

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle and then double pointed needles. Cast on 85-90-95-100-105 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with off white. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and red. Then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', insert 5 markers in the piece, 17-18-19-20-21 sts apart. On next round, dec 1 st after every marker by K 2 tog = 5 sts dec on every round. Repeat dec every 3rd round 14-15-16-17-18 more times = 15 sts remain on double pointed needles. After last dec K all sts tog 2 by 2. Pull yarn through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 27-28-30-31-32 cm / 10½"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12½".

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with an approx. diameter of 5 cm / 2'' in off white. Fasten pompom at the top in the tip of hat.


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BOW:

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.
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BOW:
Cast on 10 sts on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. Work ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above – back and forth until piece measures 8 cm / 3'', bind off.

MIDDLE BAND:
Cast on 10 sts on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and knit 8 rows. Bind off. Sew the short ends tog to form a ring.

Pull the bow through the ring and fasten the two parts tog with a couple of stitches. Fasten a ribbon or an elastic through the ring on the back of the bow.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K or P 1 (see diagram), K 3 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K or P 1 from cable needle (see diagram)
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 26-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Emanuela 02.04.2020 - 16:50:

Buongiorno, vorrei avere una precisazione: durante l'esecuzione del cardigan, la NOTA dice: "su ogni 8° costa lavorare a ferri accorciati" essendo 1 costa = 2 ferri diritti quindi ogni 16 ferri devo fare un ferro accorciato? Grazie

DROPS Design 03.04.2020 kl. 09:17:

Buongiorno Emanuela, esattamente, deve lavorare i ferri accorciati sul bordo ogni 8 coste, cioè ogni 16 ferri. Buon lavoro!

Maliza 15.10.2019 - 04:52:

Please help me understand the following stitches: = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K or P 1 (see diagram), K 3 from cable needle Knit or purl? How should I decide. What should I be looking in the picture? = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K or P 1 from cable needle (see diagram) Same for this stitch. Is there any standard term for these stitches? Thank you for your help!

DROPS Design 15.10.2019 kl. 10:15:

Dear Maliza, the stitches in the middle of the mid-cable are worked in moss stitch, so that they have to be either purled or knitted, depending on how the next/previous stitch has to be worked, ie if next stitch in moss stitch is P you have to knit this stitch, if previous stitch is a K, you have to purl this stitch. Happy knitting!

Carol 16.07.2019 - 11:38:

I would like to know in this pattern for Charming Cooper, in the 2nd row on starting the pattern stitch it mentions you must start short rows after the 8th ridge on the band. what does this mean and what is the 8th ridge worked.

DROPS Design 16.07.2019 kl. 11:44:

Dear Carok, a ridge is two rows/ rounds knitted with garter stitch. When you knit garter stitch back and forth, it is two rows with knit stitch, when you knit it on the round it is one round of knit and the second round is purled. I hope this help. Happy Knitting!

Nadege MAILLET 22.03.2019 - 14:07:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les diminutions. Je le fais en taille 9/10 ans Du coup pour le dos je commence avec 84 mailles Si je fais 1-2-2-2-2 fois 2 mailles je retire déjà 18 mailles et 2-2-3-1-2 fois 1 mailles je retire 10 mailles + les 18 précédentes ca fais 28 mailles retirées. Comment je fais pour arriver à 74 mailles ? Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 22.03.2019 kl. 15:53:

Bonjour Mme Maillet, en taille 9/10 ans, vous allez rabattre de chaque côté 2 fois 2 m et 1 fois 1 m soit 10 m au total, il va rester: 84-10= 74 mailles. Bon tricot!

Penny Balding 07.02.2019 - 17:34:

I would like to ask when doing the measurements for the jacket, ie for the button holes on the band, plus measuring for the length up to the armholes, from where is the measurement taken from? On the same row the length of the band done in garter st is different from the length taken in the panel of cable stitches, and is different again when measurement is taken over the stocking stitch panel. For the size 5/6 year old, there is as much as 5cm difference.

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 11:00:

Dear Mrs Balding, there shouldn't be noticeable difference in height between stocking stitch and cable patterns, and there should be no difference in height with the band stitches thanks to the short rows. The height should be then the same measured anywhere in the jacket. Happy knitting!

Vienne 17.01.2019 - 15:45:

Bonjour, J'ai bien réussi le corps du gilet et je commence maintenant les manches. J'ai une interrogation au niveau du diagramme A2. Pouvez vous me confirmez que la première ligne de 18m du diagramme A2 est à l'envers. C'est à dire que les 6 mailles en croix du début de A2 doivent être tricoté à l'endroit puisqu'on est en jersey envers? Merci pour votre retour. Cordialement Elisabeth VIENNE

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 16:12:

Bonjour Mme Vienne, les manches se tricotent en rond sur les aiguilles doubles pointes, tous les rangs du diagramme seront ainsi lus sur l'endroit de droite à gauche jusqu'à l'arrondi de la manche. On tricote ensuite les rangs sur l'envers en les lisant de gauche à droite - au moment de rabattre les mailles pour l'arrondi, ajustez bien pour que les rangs avec torsades soient toujours sur l'endroit. Les mailles avec des croix = jersey envers et les mailles blanches = jersey endroit (vu sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

Vienne 10.04.2018 - 22:04:

Bonjour, Dans les explications sur la veste je ne vois pas de mention du point fantaisie A2. Merci de me préciser à quel moment il faut faire le point A2. Cordialement

DROPS Design 11.04.2018 kl. 09:32:

Bonjour Mme Vienne, le diagramme A.2 se fait au milieu de chaque manche. Bon tricot!

Amanda 24.11.2017 - 09:09:

Thank you for such a beautiful pattern = I am looking at making the Jacket - for a 3 year old- the size 98/104cm - what does this relate to - is it the height of the child please? Many thanks

DROPS Design 24.11.2017 kl. 11:10:

Dear Amanda, that's right 98/104 cm is the height of the child - you will find all measurements of the jacket in the chart at the bottom of the page, they are in cm taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar jacket that fits him to find out the matching size. Read more about the size here. Happy knitting!

Agnès 01.06.2017 - 08:14:

Bonjour, j'ai un problème avec le diagramme; quand je tricote les cases en croix sur l'endroit de mon tricot , je tricote les mailles à l'envers et quand je tricote mon tricot à l'envers je tricote donc ces mailles qui sont à l'endroit, en mailles envers ? donc sur l'endroit cela donne visuellement des variations endroit et envers. merci de me répondre

DROPS Design 01.06.2017 kl. 09:03:

Bonjour Agnès, les croix dans les diagrammes sont des mailles en jersey envers (= à l'envers sur l'endroit et à l'endroit sur l'envers) et les cases blanches se tricotent en jersey endroit (= à l'endroit sur l'endroit et à l'envers sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

Rigault 26.02.2017 - 21:56:

Je souhaite faire ce gilet en 13-14 ans. Pourriez vous m'indiquer le nombre de maille à ajouter ou m'indiquer le calcul à effectuer. Merci de votre aide, je n'ai pas trouvé de gilet aussi beau que celui-ci .

DROPS Design 27.02.2017 kl. 11:24:

Bonjour Mme Rigault, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, mais vous pouvez vous recalculer sur la base de votre échantillon, de vos mesures finales avec les explications. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous aider si besoin. Bon tricot!

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