DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.45 $ /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Arched (white) No. 521

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.35$.

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Petit Lutin

Set of knitted baby jumpsuit, socks and bonnet / Santa hat in DROPS Cotton Merino. Size 1-18 months

DROPS Children 26-17
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-006-bn
Yarn group B
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PLAY SUIT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150 g color no 06, red

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for rib.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 pieces in all sizes

BONNET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference:
Approx. 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm / 16"-17"-18" (19"-20").
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 6, red

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16") SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – for rib.

SOCKS:
Size:
US: 1/2-2½/3½-4/5 (5½/6½-7/8-9/10½)
EU: 15/17 - 18/19 - 20/21 (22/23 - 24/25 - 26/28)
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (13-15-17) cm / 4"-4⅜"-4¾" (5"-6"-6¾")
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100-100) g color no 06, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

PLAY SUIT:
DECREASE TIP-1:
Work until 3 sts remain before marker and dec as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP-2:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 3 edge sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 edge sts in garter st: Beg 2 sts before 3 edge sts and K 2 tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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PLAY SUIT:
Piece is worked back and forth in 2 parts, bottom up, up to after leg opening. Then work piece in the round before dividing at the waist and finishing front piece back and forth on needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 14-16-18 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Merino and working stockinette st back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row 9 times in total in each side = 50-52-54 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 6 cm / 2⅜". Put piece aside and work front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 14-16-18 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Merino and working stockinette st back and forth for 5 cm / 2". Now cast on 6 new sts at the end of every row 3 times in total in each side = 50-52-54 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 7 cm / 2¾".

BODY:
Slip sts from front and back piece on to same circular needle = 100-104-108 sts. Insert 1 marker in each side (= 50-52-54 sts between markers) - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stockinette st in the round - beg of round = the side. When piece measures 2-3-5 cm / ¾"-1"-2", dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 2 cm / ¾" 4 times in total = 84-88-92 sts. When piece measures 10-11-14 cm / 4"-4½"-5½" from markers (piece measures approx. 17-18-21 cm / 6¾"-7"-8¼" from cast-on edge), work an elevation at the back as follows: K as before over the first 42-44-46 sts, i.e. until 2nd marker (= front piece – NOTE: Do not work elevation over these sts), K until 5 sts remain before marker at beg of round, turn and P until 5 sts remain until marker in the other side, turn piece. K until 10 sts remain before marker, turn piece and P until 10 sts remain before marker in the other side, turn piece. K until 15 sts remain before marker, turn piece and P until 15 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece and K back to beg of round (= the side).
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and K 1 round over all sts AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 80-88-96 - NOTE: To avoid holes at every turn pick up loop between 2 sts and K twisted tog with next st on needle. Then work rib as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain on round and finish with P 2 and K 1. When rib measures 1½ cm / ½", work an lace edge as follows: K 1, * P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain on round, finish with P 2 tog, 1 YO and K 1. Work until 1 round remain before rib measures 3 cm / 1". Work next round as follows: Work rib over the first 40-44-48 sts (= front piece), LOOSELY bind off the next 40-44-48 sts with K over K and P over P (= back piece).

FRONT PIECE:
Insert 1 marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work first row from RS as follows: 3 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, 9-11-13 sts in stockinette st, pattern according to A.1 (= 16 sts), 9-11-13 sts in stockinette st, 3 edge sts in GARTER ST. Continue pattern like this back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 1-0-0 cm / ⅜"-0"-0", dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every 2nd-4th-6th row 7-7-6 times in total = 26-30-36 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 7-9-11 cm / 2¾"-3½"-4½" from marker (adjust so that next row is from RS), work 3 ridges back and forth over all sts. Work next row as follows from RS: K 8 and slip these sts on 1 stitch holder for shoulder strap, bind off the next 10-14-20 sts and K the last 8 sts (= shoulder strap).

SHOULDER STRAP:
Continue in garter st back and forth until shoulder strap measures approx. 18-20 cm / 7"-8" (or desired length). Bind off and repeat in the other side.

ASSEMBLY:

RIB EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 50 to 56 sts along one opening for leg on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Merino. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 58-62-66 sts. Then work rib K 2/P 2 back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When edge measures 2 cm / ¾", loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat along the other leg.

Sew opening between legs inside 1 edge st - -i.e. sew tog one rib edge, then sew seam between leg openings and then the other rib edge.

Fasten a button at the bottom on each shoulder strap. Use holes in eyelet row on rib to button.

TIES:
Cut 2 lengths Cotton Merino yarn of approx. 3 metres/3.2 yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Beg mid front and thread tie up and down through eyelet row on rib in waist.

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BONNET:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 75-81-85 (91-91) sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Merino. P 1 row from WS, then work rib (= K 1/P 1) with 1 edge st in garter st - SEE EXPLANATION ABOVE - and K 1 inside edge st in each side (seen from RS). When piece measures 3 cm / 1", work 1 row in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-10 (8-8) sts evenly = 65-71-75 (83-83) sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm / 4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛" (5½"-6"), slip 3 sts at beg of every row on a stitch holder (work sts first). Continue in stockinette st, on every row slip 3 new sts on stitch holder. Continue like this until there are 30-33-33-39-39 sts on the stitch holders in each side (= 5-5-9-5-5 sts on needle). Cut the yarn and slip all sts back on needle. K 1 row from RS over all sts, on next row bind off. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-24-25 cm / 7½"-8"-8¼" (9½"-9¾").

ASSEMBLY:
Graft bonnet together mid back with kitchener st.
Pick up from RS approx. 44-60 sts along the bottom edge on bonnet on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. P 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 55-59-65-69-75 sts. Work 2 rows in stockinette st with 1 st in garter st in each side. Work next row as follows (from RS): K 1, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K these sts. Then work 3 rows in stockinette st with 1 st in garter st in each side, then bind off.
Fold edge double towards WS at the eyelet row and fasten.

TIES:
Cut 3 lengths Cotton Merino of approx. 2 metres/2.2 yds, twine them tightly tog, fold them double and they will twine again, tie a knot in each end. Thread the string through the folded edge.

SOCKS:
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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= from RS): Work until 5-5-5 (5-5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= from WS): Work until 5-5-5 (5-5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3: Work until 4-4-4 (4-4-4) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4: Work until 4-4-4 (4-4-4) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before every dec until 8-8-10 (10-12-12) sts remain on needle.
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SOCKS:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 36-36-40 (40-44-44) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Cotton Merino and work rib K 2/P 2 for 2-2-2 (3-3-3) cm / 3/4-¾"-¾" (1"-1"-1"). Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back). Work next round as follows: 10-10-12 (12-14-14 ) sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 (= 16 sts) and 10-10-12 (12-14-14) sts in stockinette st. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-4 (4-5-6) cm / 1"-1"-1½" (1½"-2"-2½"), dec 2 sts mid back - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 4-4-3 (3-3-3) cm / 1½"-1½"-1" (1"-1"-1") a total of 2-2-3 (3-4-4) times = 32-32-34 (34-36-36) sts. When piece measures 9-10-12 (13-16-19) cm / 3½"-4"-4¾" (5"-6¼"-7½"), keep the middle 16-16-18 (18-20-20) sts mid back on needle for heel and slip the middle 16 sts on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot). Work in stockinette st back and forth over heel sts for 3-3½-4 (4½-5-5) cm / 1"-1¼"-1½" (1¾"-2"-2"). Insert 1 marker in middle of piece. Then work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above! Then pick up 7-8-9 (10-11-11) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 38-40-44 (46-50-50) sts on needle. Continue in the round in stockinette and A.1 over the middle sts on top of foot as before - AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of the 16 sts on top of foot as follows: K the last 2 sts before the 16 sts tog and K the first 2 sts after the 16 sts twisted tog. Dec every other round 6-6-7 (7-7-7) times in total = 26-28-30 (32-36-36) sts.
Continue to work until piece measures approx. 8-9-9½ (10½-11½-13) cm / 3"-3½"-3¾" (4¼"-1½"-5") from marker on heel (approx. 2-2-2½ (2½-3½-4) cm / ¾"-¾"-⅞" (7/8"-1¼"-1½") remain). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 13-14-15 (16-18-18) sts on both upper foot and under foot. Then dec for toes on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec every other row: 2-2-3 (3-5-6) times and then every row: 3-3-3 (3-2-1) times = 6-8-6 (8-8-8) sts remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Sock measures approx. 10-11-12 (13-15-18) cm / 4"-4½"-4¾" (5"-6"-7"). Knit another sock.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= 1 YO between 2 sts
	= K 2 tog
	= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Petit Lutin

Đelila Hardauš, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Petit Lutin

Liina, Finland

Comments / Questions (11)

Sylvia Wetz wrote:

Bonjour, j\'aimerais tricoter ce joli bonnet de lutin, mais je ne comprends pas ce que veut dire :\r\n\" glisser 3 m au début de chaque rang sur un arrêt de mailles (tricoter les mailles avant). Continuer en jersey, en glissant tous les rangs 3 m sur un arrêt de mailles. \"\r\nJe veux, par la même occasion, vous remercier pour votre excellent site et votre générosité ! Rare, F A N T A S T I Q U E !!! Merci merci merci ❤️ Sylvia

12.12.2022 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvia et merci, vous allez tricoter ainsi, vu sur l'endroit: *tricotez les 3 premières mailles et glissez-les en attente, tricotez les mailles restantes du rang, tournez, tricotez les 3 premières mailles et glissez-les en attente, tricotez les mailles restantes, tournez* (vous avez 3 m en attente de chaque côté), répétez ces 2 rangs jusqu'à ce qu'il y ait 30-33-33-39-39 m en attente de chaque côté, il reste alors 5-5-9-5-5 m sur l'aiguille. Coupez le fil, remettez toutes les mailles sur l'aiguille et tricotez 1 rang endroit sur l'endroit avant de rabattre. Bon tricot!

12.12.2022 - 16:05

Christine wrote:

Bonjour, J'aimerai tricoter ce joli modèle "petit lutin" n° 26-17 et sur les explication je ne trouve nulle part le dessin des diagramme pour le point fantaisie. Où les trouver svp ? Merci d'avance Cordialement

04.10.2021 - 15:54

Bonjour Christine, vous trouverez le diagramme A.1 correspondant à ce modèle en bas de page, sous la légende. Bon tricot!

05.10.2021 - 06:54

Anna Sharp wrote:

What is the Edge St that is used in the bonnet? The pattern says See Explanation Above but I’m unable to find it the instruction. Thanks

07.07.2019 - 06:47

Dear Anna, the bonnet starts with a K1, P1 rib pattern, and an edge stitch on both sides, which are knitted in garted stitch (knitted in every row). Happy Knitting!

07.07.2019 - 17:15

Ana wrote:

Se puede obtener el patrón del pantalón pero con agujas rectas? Muchas gracias

07.01.2019 - 22:49

Hola Ana. No hacemos patrones personalizados.

03.02.2019 - 18:45

Paulina Fernández wrote:

Muchas gracias equipo Drops por responder tan pronto. Terminé la labor y quedó estupendo!! Buena semana!!

16.04.2018 - 19:58

Hola equipo Drops. Estoy tejiendo el gorro y no entiendo como es la parte de ir juntando los tres (3) puntos en aguja auxiliar al inicio de cada vuelta: ¿Son en todas las vueltas (derecho y revés),? Cómo se le da la forma en punta, no se hacen disminuciones? Y al finalizar el tejido, cuando tengo que cortar el hilo, si también tejo los puntos centrales junto a los del gancho auxiliar, cuál es la finalidad de separarlos antes? Estaré atenta a su respuesta. Gracias.

16.04.2018 - 02:46

Ver la respuesta abajo

17.04.2018 - 08:11

15.04.2018 - 13:59

Hola Paulina, el método de deslizar los puntos a una aguja auxiliar en vez de cerrarlos para disminuir es un método para dar forma curvada a una labor, al igual que las filas acortadas y las disminuciones. Se trabaja por el lado derecho en un extremo y por el lado revés en el otro extremo.

15.04.2018 - 20:20

Sara Tome wrote:

I'm sorry but I'm not understanding how to start the jumpsuit... Can you please let me know what part of the text comes first? Thank you very much

26.02.2018 - 20:57

Dear Mrs Tome, start reading with PLAYSUIT, working first BACK PIECE, then FRONT PIECE, then BODY slipping all sts from back and front piece together on the same circular needle, then finish front piece separately. Happy knitting!

27.02.2018 - 08:44

Narda Van Leeuwen wrote:

Beste Drops design, ik heb een vraag over de laatste zin van de ronding in het achterpand: 'Keer het werk en brei recht terug tot het begin van de nld (= de zijkant).' Moet je hier ook rekening houden met gaatjes bij de keerpunten? En je eindigt dan bij de linker zijkant van het achterpand, toch?

26.10.2016 - 11:34

Hoi Narda. Als je vindt dat je gaatjes te groot zijn bij de keerpunten, dan kan je eventueel een st opnemen van de overgang en deze samenbreien met de eerstvolgende st om de gaatjes kleiner te maken. En je breit aan het eind terug naar het begin van de nld (markeerder linker zijkant).

26.10.2016 - 12:31

Ida wrote:

Hei! ER det mulig å strikke denne i et reint babyullgarn i stedet for blandinggsgarnet Merino Cotton? Jeg skal strikke den største størrelsen. Mvh Ida

18.02.2016 - 09:33

Hej. Denna är stickad i ett garn ur garngrupp B så du kan byta ut garnet mot ett annat i samma garngrupp, läs mer om detta här. Lycka till!

19.02.2016 - 13:50

Petit Lutin

Set of knitted baby jumpsuit, socks and bonnet / Santa hat in DROPS Cotton Merino. Size 1-18 months

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

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Petit Lutin

Petit Lutin

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 26-17

Comments / Questions (11)

Petit Lutin

Set of knitted baby jumpsuit, socks and bonnet / Santa hat in DROPS Cotton Merino. Size 1-18 months

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