Celtic Dancer by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS slippers with cables in "Nepal".

Keywords: cable, slippers
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-162
Yarn group C or A + A
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
To fit foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''

DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in color no 4311, gray/purple

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 – for rib edge


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.45 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.05$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show the pattern seen from RS.

Dec 1 st before marker as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 twisted tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

Row/round 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row/round 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row/round.

Measure in the middle of cable in A.1/A.3.

Worked back and forth from mid back.
Cast on 33-33-35 sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal (let the yarn end be approx. 20 cm / 8"; used for assembly). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 4 sts evenly = 37-37-39 sts. Then work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3 (= 8 sts), 13-13-15 sts SEED ST – see explanation above, A.1 (= 8 sts), finish with P 4. Continue the pattern like this, work P sts K from WS. Repeat A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 10½-11½-13 cm / 4¼''-4½"-5" – see MEASURING TIP above, work as follows from RS: P 4, A.3, 13-13-15 sts seed st, A.1, P 4, cast on 4 new sts, work the first 4 sts, round beg here = 41-41-43 sts. Now work piece in the round on double pointed needles. Work pattern as before but now work A.2 (= 12 sts) over the 4 P sts in each side of piece and the 4 new sts. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.a until piece measures 17-19-22 cm / 6¾''-7½"-8¾". Now work in stockinette st over sts in A.a, or start stockinette st a bit earlier. Continue A.1 and A.3 until finished measurements. Now insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Work A.3 but insert 1st marker between 1st and 2nd st and 2nd marker between 7th and 8th st in A.3, work seed st as before, work A.1 but insert 3rd marker between 1st and 2nd st and 4th marker between 7th and 8th st in A.1, K the remaining sts (= 14 sts on top of foot, 15-15-17 sts under foot and 6 sts in each side of piece).

Now dec for toe on next round as follows: Dec 1 st after 2nd marker and 1 st before 3rd marker under foot 0-0-1 time in total – READ DECREASE TIP above, work the remaining sts = 14 sts on top of foot and 15 sts under foot (= 41 sts in total). On next round, dec as follows: Dec 1 st before 1st and 3rd marker and 1 st after 2nd and 4th marker (= 4 dec in total). Repeat dec every round 6 times in total AT THE SAME TIME on last dec work cable sts in A.1 and A.3 as follows: K 2 twisted tog, K 2 tog. After all dec there are 13 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 20-22-25 cm / 8''-8¾"-9¾". Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Fold cast-on edge double (= mid back), use yarn end from beg to sew neatly tog mid back.

Work edge in the round on double pointed needles around the opening on slipper. Pick up 50-50-54 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Nepal. P 1 round. Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 60-60-64 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 2 until piece measures approx. 12-13-14 cm / 4¾''-5"-5½". Bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Fold the edge double.

Knit another slipper.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P/K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P/K 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-55) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (146)

country flag Mari wrote:

Saisiko tossusta kuvan ennenkuin saumat on ommeltu , saisi paremman kuvan tossusta, kiitos. (Ohjeen hahmoitus hankalaa :)

17.08.2022 - 09:34

country flag Marit Sjøvold wrote:

Gleder meg til å strikke tøfler

29.07.2022 - 07:55

country flag Jane wrote:

I am so sorry, I know you have answered this question before but I am still confused by the A.a chart. On the third row, when I come to the first cable it says to slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece and knit 2. Do I purl the stitch from the cable needle or knit it. I don't understand when you say either P or K depending on the next row in diagram. Thanks so much for your help!!!

01.04.2022 - 23:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jane, the stitches in the middle of the cables in A.2 will be worked in moss stitch; so that you should either K (if this stitch is worked purled on next round) or P (if this stitch is worked K on next round). Happy knitting!

04.04.2022 kl. 10:59

country flag Linda Ponsford wrote:

The pattern says to repeat A.2 one time, then A.a until the correct measurement. But the picture clearly shows A.2 repeated twice. Can you clarify this please?

04.01.2022 - 23:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ponsford, on the picture you work A.2 one time then the first rows = Aa = the beg of a 2nd repeat of the cable that will not be worked to the end because these stitches will be decreased for the toe (reason why you work them in stocking stitch, you won't have enough sts to continue the 2nd repeat due to the decreases), only the cables on each side will be kept. Happy knitting!

05.01.2022 kl. 08:02

country flag Trixi wrote:

Könnten sie mir bitte erklären wenn 33-33-37 M zb. Stehen meinen sie denn insgesamt nur 103 M so weiterschicken? Ich verstehe leider auch nicht ganz wie das so beim stricken aussehen soll oder zusammengefügt wird. Gibt es konzeptzeichnungen? Oder andere optische Hilfe?

19.12.2021 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Trixi, es wird am Anfang nur 33-33-35 Maschen gestrickt - siehe vorrige Antwort, Sie stricken zuerst den Fußteil von hinteren Mitte bis die Öffnung für den Fuß fertig ist, dann stricken Sie in Runden bis zur Spitze. Folgen Sie nach und nach die Anleitung genau wie beschrieben, so bekommen Sie die Hausshuhen wie auf dem Foto. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.12.2021 kl. 08:15

country flag Trixi wrote:

Ich bin es gewohnt mit bildlichen Anleitungen zu arbeiten, wieviele Runden werden am Anfang gestrickt? Am Anfang steht ein krausrippe und zur Erklärung 2re und dann wieder 2 re ich denke da ist ein Fehler und es sollte 2 re und 2 Li stehen oder? So wie es auf dem Bild auch zu sehen ist. Leier steht in der gesammten beschreiben nicht einmal von R 1 - z.B. 7 oder ähnliches. Können sie mir bitte sagen wie genau die Anleitung ist oder wo ich vielleicht eine ausführliche finden kann?

19.12.2021 - 17:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Trixi, das Bündchen 2 re/2 li wird am Ende gestrickt - siehe BÜNDCHENRAND; diese Hausschuhen werden zuerst in Hin- und Rück-Reihen ab hinteren Mitte (Fersen) gestrickt; die Anschlagskante wird am Ende doppelt gefaltet und zusammengenäht, dann wird das Bündchenrand gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.12.2021 kl. 08:12

country flag Pauline Lee wrote:

Dear Esteemed Knitters, Diagrams A1, A2, A3 is not found within the general directions for the pattern itself. Thank you for your valued time.

26.10.2021 - 22:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pauline, if you mean the written out direction for those patterns, they are only available in diagram form, below the instructions. Happy Knitting!

27.10.2021 kl. 00:28

country flag Dorothy Moore wrote:

When following the charts do you start at the bottom and work up or from the top and work down? In the chart for A2 and looking at the picture it looks like you start top to bottom but then the repeat A.a does not make any sense. Also please explain what p/k 1 in the cable instructions. How are you suppose to tell when to purl or when to knit the stitch.

17.10.2021 - 01:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dorothy, when following the chart, we go from the bottom up, right to left - see How to read knitting diagrams P/K 1 in cable instructions depends on moss stitch - the stitches need to be adjusted so that the pattern comes out. Happy knitting!

18.10.2021 kl. 05:37

country flag Lucy wrote:

Hello, I have dreamed of someday knitting these slippers. I have tried unfortunately failed to understand the instructions. I have seen other videos from here showing how to knit the whole slipper. I would love it and I'm sure new knitters around the world would enjoy having a demo video on these slippers. Please consider making a demo video on the Celtic Dancer slipper. I will attempt them again after my current knitting project is complete. Thanks for listening. Have a wonderful day.

05.10.2021 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lucy, unfortunately, it's very difficult for us to make video tutorials for each pattern, which is why we usually make videos to explain the main or most complicated techniques and one for slippers in general, as a guide to create other slippers. Happy knitting!

06.10.2021 kl. 23:19

country flag Sue wrote:

Drops patterns look beautiful but the patterns are always so confusing to follow. Maybe you could try to write them differently.

27.09.2021 - 22:48

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