Squirrel Song by DROPS Design

Set of knitted sweater with round yoke, squirrel and heart detail, plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

  • Squirrel Song / DROPS Baby 17-15 - Set of knitted sweater with round yoke, squirrel and heart detail, plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca
  • Squirrel Song / DROPS Baby 17-15 - Set of knitted sweater with round yoke, squirrel and heart detail, plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Bust: 50-56-62 (68-74) cm [19¾”-22”-24 3/8” (26¾”-29 1/8”)]
Full length: 28-30-34 (38-42) cm [11”-11¾”-13 3/8” (15”-16½”)].
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)]

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (200-200) g color no 618, beige
50 g for all sizes color no 100, off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 401, brown
50 g for all sizes color no 7300, lime green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’] for the 2 smaller sizes and 60 cm [24’’] for the 3 larger sizes) size 2.5 mm [US 1] – or size needed to get 26 sts x 35 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 503: 2 pcs.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – the entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BODY PIECE: Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 148-168-184 (204-220) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm [US 1] with beige. Work 4 cm [1½’’] rib, K2/P2. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-22-24 (28-30) sts evenly on first round = 130-146-160 (176-190) sts.
When piece measures 16-18-21 (24-27) cm [6¼”-7”-8¼” (9½”-10 5/8”)] work next round as follows: bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 57-65-72 (80-87) sts = front piece, bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 57-65-72 (80-87) sts = back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-44-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] with beige and work 3 cm [1 1/8’’] rib, K2/P2. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 4-6-8 (10-12) sts evenly = 36-38-40 (42-44) sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under arm. When piece measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm [1½”-1½”-1½” (2”-2”)] inc 1 st on each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 5-5-5 (6-6) round a total of 7-8-9 (10-12) times = 50-54-58 (62-68) sts. When piece measures 14-16-18 (22-26) cm [5½”-6”-7” (8¾”-10¼”)] bind off 8 sts mid under arm (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 42-46-50 (54-60) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle size 2.5 mm [US 1] as body piece where bind off for armholes = 198-222-244 (268-294) sts. Round now beg mid back. Work 1-1-3 (7-10) rounds beige, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 6-6-4 (4-6) sts evenly = 192-216-240 (264-288) sts. Now continue in M.1 – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-26-30 (34-38) cm [9½”-10¼”-11¾” (13 3/8”-15”)] divide piece mid back for split as follows: Work round to mid back, cast on 3 new sts (= right buttonhole band), turn piece and now work all sts back and forth on needle with 3 garter sts each side for buttonhole bands (work the inc 3 sts in main color). AT THE SAME TIME after 2 cm [3/4’’] make 1 buttonhole on left buttonhole band by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. After M.1 there are 83-93-103 (113-123) sts on row and piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm [11”-11¾”-13 3/8” (15”-16½”)]. Work 1 row stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 72-76-80 (84-88). K 4 rows and continue as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 3 garter sts. When rib measures 1-1-1 (1.5-1.5) cm [3/8”-3/8”-3/8” (½”-½”)] make 1 buttonhole in line with the other on buttonhole band and repeat when rib measures 3-4-4 (4.5-4.5) cm [1 1/8”-1½”-1½” (1¾”-1¾”)]. Bind off when rib measures 4-5-5 (6-6) cm [1½”-2”-2” (2 3/8”-2 3/8”)].

ASSEMBLY: Fold rib double towards WS at neckline and fasten. Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons to fit buttonholes.


Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on row.

PATTERN: See diagram M.2 – the entire diagram is worked in stockinette st.

Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm [US 1] with beige. Work 5-5-6 (6-7) cm [2”-2”-2 3/8” (2 3/8”-2¾”)] rib, K2/P2, and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 36-40-40 (44-48) sts. Now keep the first 18-20-20 (22-26) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm [1 1/8”-1¼”-1½” (1½”-1¾”)] stockinette st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE.

After heel dec pick up 8-9-10 (10-11) sts on both sides of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 42-48-50 (52-56) sts. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st before the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on upper foot by K2 tog and 1 st after the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts upper foot by K2 tog into back of loop. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 3-6-7 (5-7) times = 36-36-36 (42-42) sts. When piece measures 6-7-8 (10-12) cm [2 3/8”-2¾”-3 1/8” (4”-4¾”)] from marker on heel work M.2. Now insert a marker each side with 18-18-18 (22-22) sts on upper foot and 18-18-18 (20-20) sts under foot. Continue in off-white, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP - on every round 7-7-7 (8-8) times = 8-8-8 (10-10) sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm [4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = beige
symbols = brown
symbols = lime green
symbols = off-white
symbols = from RS: K2 tog
from WS: P2 tog
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, peut-on faire ce modèle sans les deux bandes de boutonnière ? ( col tricoté en rond )

08.02.2022 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, il est possible que l'encolure soit alors trop serrée, vérifiez en fonction de votre tension/du tour de tête de l'enfant si le pull est susceptible de passer et ajustez si besoin. Bon tricot!

08.02.2022 kl. 16:05

country flag Angela wrote:

Onko olkapäälle tulevasta nappilistasta ohjevideota? Tai ohjekuvia?

02.01.2022 - 09:24

DROPS Design answered:

Valitettavasti kyseistä kuvaa tai ohjevideota ei juuri nyt löydy.

09.03.2022 kl. 17:07

country flag Kirsi Maaniemi wrote:

Hei, en ymmärrä kuinka nappilistahalkio tehdään. Olisiko siitä kuvia?

19.12.2021 - 22:48

DROPS Design answered:

Nappilista tehdään siten, että työ jaetaan keskeltä takaa ja kerroksen loppuun luodaan 3 uutta silmukkaa. Jatkossa kummankin reunan reunimmaisilla 3 silmukalla neulotaan ainaoikeaa pohjavärillä.

07.03.2022 kl. 17:16

country flag Rhonda Ellis wrote:

How don't understand how to do the split for the Squirrel Song pattern. can you please help me with this. do I continue on in the round but don't join the piece? I'm so confused.

02.12.2021 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ellis, for the split mid back you will then work like this at the required height: at the end of the round (mid back), cast on 3 sts (button band), turn and work now from WS (from WS read now diagram from the left towards the right) until 3 sts remain before the end of the row, and work the last 3 sts in garter stitch. Turn and work now from RS again. Continue like this alternately from RS and from WS with 3 sts in garter stitch on each side. Happy knitting!

03.12.2021 kl. 07:58

country flag Samia wrote:

Bonjour, au moment où on est sur l'empiècement: on est sur les aiguilles circulaires, et là on est sensé faire l'ouverture du dos, du coup ça veut dire qu'on fait le tricot en aller/retour à la place de tout en rond, avec des aiguilles circulaires? merci pour votre aide :)

17.05.2021 - 12:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Samia, effectivement, lorsque l'on divise l'ouvrage pour la fente d'encolure dos, on continue non plus en rond mais en allers et retours, autrement dit, on tricote alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers, avec l'aiguille circulaire - cf vidéo. Bon tricot!

17.05.2021 kl. 14:09

country flag Eloïse Tranchand wrote:

Bonjour, Une question concernant la boutonnière. Si je comprends bien, les 3 mailles point mousse à monter sont du côté droit et accueilleront les boutons. La boutonniere s'ouvre à gauche directement dans le motif en jacquard, c'est bien ça ? Merci pour votre aide !

25.10.2020 - 15:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tranchand, on monte effectivement les 3 m à la fin du demi-dos droit, et on continue ensuite avec 3 m point mousse de chaque côté = les 3 nouvelles mailles montées et les 3 dernières mailles du tour. La boutonnière sera ouverte sur la bordure des 3 mailles (fin de rang sur l'endroit) et les boutons seront cousus sur les 3 m montées (cette bordure sera glissée à l'intérieur du pull à la fin). Les boutonnières sont donc ouvertes dans les 3 m point mousse en début de rang sur l'endroit et pas sur celles en fin de rang sur l'endroit. En espérant avoir pu être claire. Bon tricot!

26.10.2020 kl. 08:33

country flag Rachel wrote:

Do we start the whole piece using the M1 chart or do we not start the diagram until the yoke? It says “continue the m1 pattern” but I’m not sure when I am meant to “begin” the pattern. Thanks

08.04.2020 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rachel, the diagram M.1 will be worked only on yoke, after you have worked 1 to 10 rounds beige (see size) decreasing evenly (= there are now 192 to 288 sts depending on the size). And when piece meaesures 24 to 38 cm (see size) you will divide piece for split on back piece and continue working as before but now in rows and not in rounds anymore. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

09.04.2020 kl. 17:27

country flag María José Vera wrote:

Hola me gustaría saber si puedo subir a mi canal de youtube El punto Inglés como tejer este patrón o de otros que también he tejido, utilizando su patrón y haciendo mención de que es un patrón de DROPS DESING y copiando su URL para que puedan encontrar su página. Muchas gracias. Saludos. Muchas gracias

08.06.2019 - 01:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maria José, en principio, si haces todas las menciones que has comentado y es un vídeo que has grabado tú misma y no lo coges de nuestra página web, no debería de haber ningún problema para colgarlo en youtube.

03.07.2019 kl. 22:59

country flag Kaja wrote:

Hei. Jeg er usikker på størrelsene her, det står at størrelse 12/18 mndr tilsvarer 74/80 cm, men det er vanligvis 9/12 måneder. Hvilken størrelsesangivelse er riktig?

25.04.2019 - 17:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kaja. Her ser det ut som cm-målet er litt feil. 12/18 mnd tilsvarer 80-86 cm. Vi skal få rettet dette i oppskriften. Det er også en målskisse nederst med alle plaggets mål i alle størrelser, det kna være lurt å se på denne ved størrelsesvalg. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

30.04.2019 kl. 10:21

country flag Maria wrote:

Hallo Kann ich diesen Pullover auch ohne rollkragen stricken? Könnten Sie mir erklären wie ich dann beginnen kann? Danke für die süße Anleitung Maria

18.07.2017 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Maria, wir können leider nicht jede unserer Anleitung nach jedem Geschmack anpassen, lassen Sie sich von ähnlichen Modellen inspirieren, Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen auch gerne helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.07.2017 kl. 08:56

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