DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Beech wood No. 503

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Squirrel Song

Set of knitted jumper with round yoke, squirrel and heart detail, plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

DROPS Baby 17-15
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size inn cm: 56/62-68/74-80/86 (92-98/104)
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 618, beige
50 g for all sizes colour no 100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 401, brown
50 g for all sizes colour no 7300, lime green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm for the 2 smaller sizes and 60 cm for the 3 larger sizes) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 35 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 503: 2 pcs.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

JUMPER:

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – the entire pattern is worked in stocking st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
----------------------------------------------------------
BODY PIECE: Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 148-168-184 (204-220) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with beige. Work 4 cm rib, K2/P2. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-22-24 (28-30) sts evenly on first round = 130-146-160 (176-190) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 16-18-21 (24-27) cm work next round as follows: cast off 8 sts for armhole, work 57-65-72 (80-87) sts = front piece, cast off 8 sts for armhole, work 57-65-72 (80-87) sts = back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-44-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with beige and work 3 cm rib, K2/P2. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 4-6-8 (10-12) sts evenly = 36-38-40 (42-44) sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under arm. When piece measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm inc 1 st on each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 5-5-5 (6-6) round a total of 7-8-9 (10-12) times = 50-54-58 (62-68) sts. When piece measures 14-16-18 (22-26) cm cast off 8 sts mid under arm (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 42-46-50 (54-60) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle size 2.5 mm as body piece where cast off for armholes = 198-222-244 (268-294) sts. Round now beg mid back. Work 1-1-3 (7-10) rounds beige, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 6-6-4 (4-6) sts evenly = 192-216-240 (264-288) sts. Now continue in M.1 – AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-26-30 (34-38) cm divide piece mid back for split as follows: Work round to mid back, cast on 3 new sts (= right buttonhole band), turn piece and now work all sts back and forth on needle with 3 garter sts each side for buttonhole bands (work the inc 3 sts in main colour). AT THE SAME TIME after 2 cm make 1 buttonhole on left buttonhole band by K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. After M.1 there are 83-93-103 (113-123) sts on row and piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm. Work 1 row stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 72-76-80 (84-88). K 4 rows and continue as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K2 and 3 garter sts. When rib measures 1-1-1 (1.5-1.5) cm make 1 buttonhole in line with the other on buttonhole band and repeat when rib measures 3-4-4 (4.5-4.5) cm. Cast off when rib measures 4-5-5 (6-6) cm.

ASSEMBLY: Fold rib double towards WS at neckline and fasten. Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons to fit buttonholes.
----------------------------------------------------------

SOCKS:

HEEL DECREASES:
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-6-6 (7-8) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-7) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on row.

PATTERN: See diagram M.2 – the entire diagram is worked in stocking st.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
----------------------------------------------------------
SOCK:

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with beige. Work 5-5-6 (6-7) cm rib, K2/P2, and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 36-40-40 (44-48) sts. Now keep the first 18-20-20 (22-26) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm stocking st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE.
After heel dec pick up 8-9-10 (10-11) sts on both sides of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 42-48-50 (52-56) sts. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st before the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts on upper foot by K2 tog and 1 st after the 18-20-20 (22-22) sts upper foot by K2 tog into back of loop. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 3-6-7 (5-7) times = 36-36-36 (42-42) sts. When piece measures 6-7-8 (10-12) cm from marker on heel work M.2. Now insert a marker each side with 18-18-18 (22-22) sts on upper foot and 18-18-18 (20-20) sts under foot. Continue in off-white, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP - on every round 7-7-7 (8-8) times = 8-8-8 (10-10) sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.

Diagram

	= beige
	= brown
	= lime green
	= off-white
	= from RS: K2 tog from WS: P2 tog

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 2 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

A sweater and socks for Stella

Pernilla, Sweden

I wish you a merry Christmas...

Une ending history..., Belgium

Comments / Questions (56)

Inge wrote:

Det er lige netop det jeg ikke forstår med de 22 masker. I diagrammet er der 2x11 masker. Det er vel ikke de 11 masker der skal gentages indtil delingen. Håber I kan forklare det så jeg kan forstå det. Hilsen Inge og på forhånd tak

07.01.2025 - 15:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inge. Det er bare 1 diagram og det består i begynnelsen av 24 masker. På pinne 11 felles det 2 masker hver gang du strikker diagrammet og diagrammet består nå av 22 masker. På pinne 19 felles det 2 masker i diagrammet og nå består diagrammet av 20 masker osv. Siste pinne i diagrammet består av 10 masker. Selv om diagrammet deles i to, strikkes det som 1 diagram. mvh DROPS Design

13.01.2025 - 11:39

Mht delingen af bærestykket kan jeg ikke blive klog på hvordan det forholder sig i forhold til mønsterdiagrammet. I diagrammet er det to sider med 11 masker i hver side til at starte med. Det ser da ikke rigtigt ud hvis det er disse 11 masker der skal gentages pinden/siden ud.

03.01.2025 - 11:22

Hei Inge. Etter delingen og når du starter å strikke M.1 består diagrammet av 24 masker. Det er 192-216-240-264 eller 288 masker på pinnen og man strikker M.1 8-9-10-11 eller 13 ganger. Man strikker 10 omganger der diagrammet har 24 masker. På 11. omgang felles det 2 masker pr gang diagrammet strikkes = 176-198-220-242 eller 264 masker på pinnen. Nå består M.1 av 22 masker. mvh DROPS Design

07.01.2025 - 13:32

Balsan Jacquie wrote:

Je voudrais connaître l'astuce pour éviter le décalage des rayures quand on tricote en rond. Merci pour le conseil

02.11.2024 - 13:08

Bonjour Mme Balsan, retrouvez cette astuce en vidéo ici. Bon tricot!

04.11.2024 - 08:11

Linda Mikkelsen wrote:

Jeg vil strikke Sguirrel song. Jeg har skrevet ud opskrift. Så forsøger jeg at bedstille garn fra samme side, men jeg kan ikke finde andet end F. Nr 100, natur? Hvor kan jeg købe garn fargene til denne trøye?

06.08.2024 - 22:57

Hej Linda, jo hvis du klikker på Bestil inde på selve opskriften, så kommer du ind på butikkens farvekort og så er det bare at vælge de farver du vil strikke den i :)

08.08.2024 - 15:13

Sandra San Martín Stenger wrote:

Existe algún vídeo que pueda ver, me es mucho más fácil de seguir y comprender, se los agradecería mucho. Gracias!!!

02.10.2022 - 03:46

Hola Sandra, todos los vídeos que pueden ayudarte a realizar la labor se encuentran en la sección de videos, bajo las instrucciones del patrón.

02.10.2022 - 23:51

Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, peut-on faire ce modèle sans les deux bandes de boutonnière ? ( col tricoté en rond )

08.02.2022 - 15:29

Bonjour Catherine, il est possible que l'encolure soit alors trop serrée, vérifiez en fonction de votre tension/du tour de tête de l'enfant si le pull est susceptible de passer et ajustez si besoin. Bon tricot!

08.02.2022 - 16:05

Angela wrote:

Onko olkapäälle tulevasta nappilistasta ohjevideota? Tai ohjekuvia?

02.01.2022 - 09:24

Valitettavasti kyseistä kuvaa tai ohjevideota ei juuri nyt löydy.

09.03.2022 - 17:07

Kirsi Maaniemi wrote:

Hei, en ymmärrä kuinka nappilistahalkio tehdään. Olisiko siitä kuvia?

19.12.2021 - 22:48

Nappilista tehdään siten, että työ jaetaan keskeltä takaa ja kerroksen loppuun luodaan 3 uutta silmukkaa. Jatkossa kummankin reunan reunimmaisilla 3 silmukalla neulotaan ainaoikeaa pohjavärillä.

07.03.2022 - 17:16

Rhonda Ellis wrote:

How don't understand how to do the split for the Squirrel Song pattern. can you please help me with this. do I continue on in the round but don't join the piece? I'm so confused.

02.12.2021 - 17:35

Dear Mrs Ellis, for the split mid back you will then work like this at the required height: at the end of the round (mid back), cast on 3 sts (button band), turn and work now from WS (from WS read now diagram from the left towards the right) until 3 sts remain before the end of the row, and work the last 3 sts in garter stitch. Turn and work now from RS again. Continue like this alternately from RS and from WS with 3 sts in garter stitch on each side. Happy knitting!

03.12.2021 - 07:58

Samia wrote:

Bonjour, au moment où on est sur l'empiècement: on est sur les aiguilles circulaires, et là on est sensé faire l'ouverture du dos, du coup ça veut dire qu'on fait le tricot en aller/retour à la place de tout en rond, avec des aiguilles circulaires? merci pour votre aide :)

17.05.2021 - 12:41

Bonjour Samia, effectivement, lorsque l'on divise l'ouvrage pour la fente d'encolure dos, on continue non plus en rond mais en allers et retours, autrement dit, on tricote alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers, avec l'aiguille circulaire - cf vidéo. Bon tricot!

17.05.2021 - 14:09

Squirrel Song

Set of knitted jumper with round yoke, squirrel and heart detail, plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

From the #dropsfan gallery

A sweater and socks for Stella

I wish you a merry Christmas...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 17-15

Comments / Questions (56)

Squirrel Song

Set of knitted jumper with round yoke, squirrel and heart detail, plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

@dropsdesign on Instagram

	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca	3.40 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca 3.40 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca 3.50 £ /50g Order