DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS 102-43
Size: XS - S - M
The measures of the dog:
Chest width: approx 28/32 – 40/44 – 48/52 cm
[11/12½" – 15/17" – 19/20½"]
Back length: approx 24 – 32 - 40 cm
[9½" – 12½" – 15¾"]
Examples of sizes of dogs:
XS = Chihuahua, S = Bichon Frise, M = Cocker Spaniel

Materials:
DROPS Karisma from Garnstudio
100-150-200 g color no. 21, medium gray

DROPS circular needle size 4 mm [US 6], 40 cm [16"] (sock needle in size XS) –or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

DROPS double pointed needle and short circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3]

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.3 The diagrams are shown from the RS.

Rib: * K2, P2 * , repeat from *-*.
______________________________________________________________________

COAT
Workin the round from the neck and down.
Cast on 60-80-100 sts with double pointed needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] and medium grey.
Work in Rib for 8-10-12 cm [3⅛"-4"-4 ¾"] (= Collar which will be folded double).
Change to small circular needle size 4 mm [US 6] (sock needle in size XS).
K 1 round at the same time inc. 16-32-54 sts evenly distributed = 76-112-154 sts.
Continue the pattern as follows:
Size XS: M.2, P2 , M.2, P3, M.3, M.2, M.1 (= mid back), M.2, M.3 and P3.
Size S: * M.2, P2 *, repeat from *-* 2 times, M.2, * M.3, M.2 *, repeat from *-* 2 times, M.1 (= mid back), * M.2, M.3 *, repeat from *-* 2 times.
Size M: * M.2, P2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times, M.2, * M.3, M.2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times, M.1 (= mid back), * M.2, M.3 *, repeat from *-* 3 times.
At the same time when the piece measures 12-16-20 cm [4 ¾"-6 ¼"-8"] split the work for the forelegs as follows: Put 10-16-22 sts on a thread or a stitch holder (= underneath the stomach), bind off 1 P st, continue to work over the back piece and bind off the last st at the other side = 64-94-130 sts (= back piece).
Work back and forth over these sts for 6-8-10 cm [2⅜"-3⅛"-4"] (the piece measures 18-24-30 cm [7"-9½"-11 ¾"] in total).
Put sts on a stitch holder and put sts from the stitch holder underneath the stomach back on needle.
Cast on 1 new st each side of these sts = 12-18-24 sts.
Continue knitting the pattern back and forth with 1 P st each side. When worked 6-8-10 cm [2⅜"-3⅛"-4"] put all sts on needle = 76-112-154 sts.
When the piece measures 24-31-38 cm [9½"-12 ¼"-15"] bind off 12-20-28 sts mid underneath the stomach.
Now work the piece back and forth on needle – at the same time bind off each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-3-4 time, 1 st 2-3-4 times, 2 st 2-3-4 times and 3 sts 1 time = 32-50-74 sts left. The piece measures approx. 30-39-48 cm [11 ¾"-15 ¼"-19"].

Assembly:
Put the remaining sts on a small circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] and pick up sts around the binding off edge to a total of approx 84-108-140 sts.
Work Rib for 2-3-4 cm [3/4"-1⅛"-1½"], bind off loosely.

Leg:
Pick up approx. 36-44-52 sts on double pointed needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] around 1 opening.
Work Rib for 2-3-4 cm [3/4"-1⅛"-1½"], bind off loosely with K over K and P over P. Repeat for the other opening.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from the RS, P from the WS
symbols = P from the RS, K from the WS
symbols = Cable: Put 1 st on cablee needle behind the work, K3, P1 from cable needle.
symbols = Cable: Put 3 sts on cable needle in front of work, P1, K3 from cable needle.
symbols = Cable: Put 2 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K2, K2 from the cable needle.
symbols = Cable: Put 3 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K3, K3 from cable needle.
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 102-43

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Comments / Questions (410)

country flag Paola wrote:

Buonasera, nelle spiegazioni del diagramma M3 eM1, il quadretto vuoto dice 1 m dir sul diritto, rov sul rovescio, il quadretto con la croce dentro dice 1 m rov sul diritto, dir sul rovescio. questo vale anche per i ferri circolari? grazie

06.12.2024 - 19:49

country flag Arina Oosterbeek wrote:

Hoi, ik ben inmiddels bij de poot minderkng gekomen ,16 steken op een draad. Dan wordt er gezegd ,brei vetbolgens heen en weer, ik kan toch niet in een teruggaande naald breien? Houdt dat in dat ik elke tour afknip aan het eind , en dan opnieuw beginnen M vr gr Arina

26.11.2024 - 15:53

country flag Janet Sutandar wrote:

Thank you so much for your quick respond. As I was reading, "after the 12 cm of ribbing , increase stitches from 100 to 154". I thought it meant change to smaller size needle to not get the piece too much bigger. Now that a second thought. The body is much bigger. I am clear, and well understood now. Working as if we were knitting sweater for ourselves. Thanks again !

25.11.2024 - 04:27

country flag Janet Sutandar wrote:

Nice pattern, I want to start it right.

24.11.2024 - 04:17

country flag Janet Sutandar wrote:

I have this question - The pattern says: Work in the round from the neck and down. Cast on 60-80-100 sts with double pointed needle size 3 mm ). Change to small circular needle size 4mm 1) Is 4mm bigger than 3mm? 2) Knit ribbing parts (neck, front legs) with big needle. Knit the body part cable with small needle? or ????

24.11.2024 - 04:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, please see our answer below. Happy knitting!

24.11.2024 - 23:08

country flag Janet Sutandar wrote:

The pattern says: Work in the round from the neck and down. Cast on 60-80-100 sts with double pointed needle size 3 mm ). Change to small circular needle size 4mm My question - 1) Is 4mm bigger than 3mm? 2) Knit ribbing parts (neck, front legs) with big needle. Knit the body part cable with small needle? or ????

24.11.2024 - 04:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, yes, you cast on with 3mm needles and then change to small/short (since they are 40cm long) circular needles. It doesn't mean that 4mm is smaller than 3mm, just that the needles used are short/small. The ribs are usually worked with a smaller needle, so that the rib won't be too loose. So in this case you use the small (short) or double pointed 3mm needles for the rib edges and the small (short) 4mm for the main body. Happy knitting!

24.11.2024 - 23:00

country flag Sabrina wrote:

Ich würde den Pullli so gerne versuchen, bräuchte ihn aber ein wenig größer… ich bräuchte eine Rückenlänge von mind 45cm und einem Brustumfang von ca 60 cm. Wie kann ich das hoch rechnen? Danke im Vorraus ;)

22.11.2024 - 17:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabrina, hier finden Sie Pullover in Größe L, vielleicht etwas noch zu klein, aber das kann Ihnen vielleicht helfen, die Anleitung anzupassen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

25.11.2024 - 07:35

country flag Minna wrote:

Ihmettelen samaa, kuin Jutta aiemmin. Kun silmukat etujalkoja varten on laitettu apulangalle, jatkuu selän neulominen edestakaisin. Jollei palmikonkiertoja tehdä nurjilla kerroksilla, niin eikös kuvio mene sekaisin? Vai olisiko mallikuvioista pitänyt laskea niin, että nurjille kerroksille ei osu palmikonkiertoja?

20.11.2024 - 19:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, työ jaetaan etujalkoja varten piirroksen parillisella kerroksella. Tällä tavoin palmikonkierrot voidaan jatkossa tehdä työn oikean puolen kerroksilla.

21.11.2024 - 18:52

country flag Zoya Dhanani wrote:

I want to make this sweater but i can only knit in flat. Any suggestions on how i could go about knitting this pattern in flat?

12.11.2024 - 18:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dhanani, in this lesson, we explain how to adapt a pattern for straight needles, this might help you. Happy knitting!

13.11.2024 - 07:42

country flag Maigon Axelsson wrote:

Jag beställer stickbeskrivning till hundtröja. \\r\\nKarisma.\\r\\nJag behöver ett pappersmönster. Då jag har problem med ögonen. Maigon axelsson\r\nGudmundsväg 76\r\n39470 Kalmar Fråga om att få mönster på papper.

12.11.2024 - 10:20