Paws & Stripes

Dog’s knitted jumper with rib. Sizes XS - M. The piece is worked in DROPS Big Delight.

DROPS 185-35
DROPS Design: Pattern no db-088
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: XS - S - M
Dog’s measurements:
Chest: approx. 11/12 1/2 – 15 3/4 / 17– 19/20 1/2 in
Back length: approx. 9 1/2 – 12 1/2 - 15 3/4 in
Examples of dog breeds: XS = Chihuahua, S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel
Materials: 
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g for all sizes in colour 04, marina

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES (sizes XS and S), CIRCULAR NEEDLE (16 in for size M) SIZE US 6 (4 MM) – or the size needed to get 19 stitches and 25 rows stocking stitch on 4 “ in width and 4 “ in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE US 2.5 (3 MM) for rib on legs - or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 4“ in width and 4“ in height.
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Categories:
Home Pets Dog Sweaters
Keywords:
rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch in a purl section by picking up a loop between 2 stitches in the transition between purl and knit. Purl the loop twisted to avoid a hole. The increased stitch is subsequently purled.
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JUMPER: 
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles/circular needle from the neck and down towards the front legs. Then the piece is divided for the legs; the back and chest pieces are continued separately, back and forth. Then you work in the round down the body and finish by working back and forth towards the tail. The legs are worked in the round with double pointed needles. The whole jumper is worked in rib - it will look small, but is very stretchy.

Cast on 48-64-80 stitches with double pointed/circular needle size 4 mm and Big Delight. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 1 1/2- 2 1/3-3 inches. Knit 1 round over all stitches. On the next round increase in every other purl section from purl 2 to purl 3 - read INCREASE TIP = 54-72-90 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue rib until the piece measures 2 1/3-4-5 1/2 inches, now increase the remaining purl sections from purl 2 to purl 3 = 60-80-100 stitches. Continue with rib (= knit 2 / purl 3) until the piece measures 3-4 3/4-6 in. Now divide for the front legs, work the next round in rib as follows: cast off the first 2 stitches, work the next 13-18-23 stitches and then place them on 1 thread (= mid under chest), cast off the next 2 stitches, work the remaining 43-58-73 stitches (= back piece). 

BACK PIECE:
= 43-58-73 stitches. Continue to work rib back and forth over these stitches for 2-3-4 in from the division (the piece measures a total of 5-8-10 in). Place the stitches on 1 thread.

CHEST PIECE:
Place the 13-18-23 stitches from under the chest back on the needle and continue rib for 2-3-4 in (the piece measures a total of 5-8-10 in).

JUMPER:
Place all the stitches on the same needle and, at the same time, cast on 2 new stitches in each side between the chest and back pieces = 60-80-100 stitches. Continue rib as before. When the piece measures 8-11-14 in cast off the middle 9-10-13 stitches mid under chest and continue working back and forth = 51-70-87 stitches. Continue to cast off at the beginning of each row as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2-5-7 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 3 stitches 1 time. Then cast off the remaining 29-42-55 stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 10-14-17 in. 

LEG: 
Knit up 28-40-48 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm around the one leg opening. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 1 1/2-2 1/3-3 in, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Repeat around the other leg opening. 

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.06.2019
New yarn amount (size M): DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio 100-100-200 g color 04, marina
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Wendy J Edwards wrote:

Thanks for your reply BUT ! The pattern instructions state “at the beginning of each row “ NOT each side !

11.03.2024 - 10:51

country flag Wendy J Edwards wrote:

185-35 DOG JUMPER. JUMPER. I now have 87 stitches and am working back and forth. Casting off at the beginning of each row does not work out as 87-55 = 32. Cast off 2 st 2 times =4, 1st 7times =7, 2st 1 time =1, 3st 1 time = 1 total 16 NOT 32 ? Desperately needing help with this PLEASE 🙏

11.03.2024 - 04:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Wendy, When casting off under the tummy in the largest size, you cast off 2 x 2 stitches on each side = 8 cast-off stitches, then 1 x 7 on each side = 14 stitches, 2 x 1 on each side = 4 stitches and 3 x 1 on each side = 6 stitches . You are then left with 55 stitches on the needle. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

11.03.2024 - 06:47

country flag Lili wrote:

Hvorfor skal der strikkes en omgang ret inden udtagninger i halsen? Kan man udlade omgangen med ret?

12.10.2022 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lili. Ved å strikke en omgang rett, får genseren en litt bedre hold mellom hals og resten av genseren. mvh DROPS Design

17.10.2022 - 13:10

country flag Kristina wrote:

När man har stickat färdigt halsen står det i beskrivningen. "Sticka 1 varv rätt över alla maskor.". Vad betyder det? Är rätt förkortning av rätmaskor? Eller är det något annat? För mig är den meningen otydlig.

02.12.2021 - 10:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristina. Ja vi menar att du ska sticka rätmaskor hela det varvet. Mvh DROPS Design

02.12.2021 - 10:44

country flag Nora wrote:

A que se reiere "En la siguiente vuelta aumentar en cada 2ª sección de revés de 2 reveses a 3 reveses"

30.09.2021 - 04:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Nora, mira este video: AQUI. En el video tienes 3 secciones reves y aumentas 1 punto en cada seccion. Aumentar en cada 2ª sección de revés significa que augmentas en primera seccion, no augmentas en segunda, augmentas en tercera, no augmentas en cuarta, etc.). Buen trabajo!

01.10.2021 - 09:53

country flag Claudia Carolina wrote:

Salve spett.le Drops, grazie mille per i meravigliosi modelli e filati. Non sarebbe possibile avere qualche modello di capottino per cani taglia medio grande? L? grazie ancora

26.07.2021 - 15:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, al momento non sono previsti nuovi modelli per cani, ma continui a seguirci: pubblichiamo dei nuovi modelli tutti i giorni! Buon lavoro!

26.07.2021 - 18:04

country flag Katia wrote:

Salve potrei sapere come aggiungergli le zampe posteriori se è possibile, su quanto modello è possibile? Grazie

15.01.2021 - 08:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Katia, purtroppo al momento non abbiamo modelli che comprendano anche le zampe posteriori, ma tenga d'occhio il sito: nelle prossime settimane ne verranno pubblicati altri! Buon lavoro!

15.01.2021 - 09:54

country flag Anne Wilkinson wrote:

Very easy and very cute! I made for a miniature dachshund puppy & would love to share my photo but am not sure how. LMK if you’re interested in seeing the finished product on the model.

28.12.2020 - 12:48

country flag Liv wrote:

Hvor finner jeg video`n "Hvordan strikke hundegenseren i DROPS 102-43." som du refererer til?

30.11.2020 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Liv, På toppen av sida klikker du på 'instruksjonsvideoer' og setter inn det du søker på. God fornøyelse!

30.11.2020 - 10:09

country flag Lisen Hillestad wrote:

Jeg har så lyst å strikke en hundegenser, men jeg er helt utrenet i strikking: det er sååå lenge siden jeg har strikket. Hvilken av deres oppskrifter er den letteste?? Mønsterstrikken kan jeg vel ev. bare utelate i første omgang.

21.09.2020 - 10:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisen. Om du søker på Hund, vil du få mange oppskrifter. Kanskje velge en hundegenser uten forbein? Husk du kan velge en hundeoppskrift med mønster, men ikke strikke mønster, bare ensfarget. Ta gjerne en titt på video: Hvordan strikke hundegenseren i DROPS 102-43. Da ser du fremgangen hvordan hundegenseren strikkes. Om du ønsker å strikke en hundegenser med flette har vi en fin Step-by-Step leksjon du kan følge. Se f.eks video først: Oversikt over hvordan hundegenseren i DROPS 102-43 strikkes – steg for steg. God Fornøyelse!

21.09.2020 - 14:40