DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Moon Mist Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Lima and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, double neck and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 245-8
DROPS Design: Pattern li-157
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-108-114-126-136-148 cm = 39⅜"-42½"-45"-49½"-53½"-58⅜"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 9025, chalk
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-125-150-175-175 g color 44, moonlight

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 629: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN-1:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter called raglan-stitches.
The raglan-stitches are always worked in stockinette stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted as described below, then worked in stockinette stitch.

From the wrong side:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Purl the back loop – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Slip the yarn over off the left needle and replace it the other way round (insert the left needle in the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop – no hole.

RAGLAN-2:
Increase 1 stitch before/after the raglan-stitches on the front/back pieces (not on the sleeves). Raglan-2 is worked in addition to Raglan-1. Work as follows:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the raglan-stitches, use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Work 3 stitches past the raglan-stitches (if there are yarn overs, they are not counted as stitches), use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop – no hole.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck is finished. Then work the other 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 9½-10-8½-9-9½-10 cm = 3⅝"-4"-3¼"-3½"-3⅝"-4" between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neckline is worked first back and forth with circular needles then new stitches are cast on on each side for neckline, then the yoke is continued back and forth from mid-front. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
The neck is worked to finish.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 61-63-65-67-69-71 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).
Insert 4 markers as follows: Insert 1 marker in the first stitch, count 17 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 23-25-27-29-31-33 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 17 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch. These marker stitches are now called raglan-stitches.
Work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 63-65-67-69-71-73 stitches.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit and increase for RAGLAN-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches – read description above (8 increased stitches), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 73-75-77-79-81-83 stitches.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Purl (yarn overs worked as described under Raglan-1), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 75-77-79-81-83-85 stitches.
ROW 4 (right side): Knit and increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 increased stitches), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 85-87-89-91-93-95 stitches.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 88-90-92-94-96-98 stitches.
ROW 6 (right side): Knit, increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 stitches increased), cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 99-101-103-105-107-109 stitches.
ROW 7 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches at the end of the row = 109-113-115-119-121-125 stitches.
ROW 8 (right side): Knit and increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 increased stitches), cast on 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches at the end of the row = 127-133-135-141-143-149 stitches.
ROW 9 (wrong side): Purl, work the outermost 7 stitches on each side in GARTER STITCH – read description above.

The neckline is finished and you have increased 4 times for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches.

YOKE:
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
NOTE: You will now increase more stitches on the front/back pieces than on the sleeves, so you will now work raglan-2 regularly in addition to raglan-1. Read the next 3 paragraphs before continuing.

Increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches every 2nd row (each row from the right side) 3-5-8-13-13-11 times (i.e., 7-9-12-17-17-15 times including the 4 increases on the neckline).
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase for RAGLAN-2 on the front and back pieces – read description above (raglan-2 is worked in addition to raglan-1). Increase for raglan-2 every 10th-12th-12th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 3-3-3-5-6-6 times.

When you have increased for raglan-1 a total of 3-5-8-13-13-11 times, continue to increase for raglan-1 every 2nd row but every second increase is only worked on the front and back pieces (i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row). Increase like this 14-14-12-8-10-14 times on the front/back pieces (7-7-6-4-5-7 times on the sleeves) – remember raglan-2.
You have now increased a total of 24-26-27-30-33-35 times on the front/back pieces (including raglan-2) and 14-16-18-21-22-22 times on the sleeves.

After all the increases for raglan-1 and raglan-2 there are 247-269-283-313-331-345 stitches (41-45-46-51-54-58 stitches on the front pieces between the raglan-stitches, 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on the sleeves and 71-77-81-89-97-103 stitches on the back piece).
Continue with stockinette stitch and 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, without further increases, until the piece measures 22-24-25-26-28-30 cm = 8¾"-9½"-9¾"-10¼"-11"-11¾", measured from the cast-on edge, mid-back.

Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 42-46-47-52-55-59 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 73-79-83-91-99-105 stitches (back piece), place the next 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 42-46-47-52-55-59 stitches (front piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 173-187-197-215-233-251 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards – they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue stockinette stitch back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the body measures 21-21-22-23-23-23 cm = 8¼"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9"-9" from the division – finish after a row from the wrong side. Now divide the piece at both marker-threads and finish each piece separately.
Place the stitches from the right front piece and back piece on 2 separate stitch holders = 46-50-52-57-61-66 stitches on the needle (left front piece).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 13-13-15-16-18-19 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off with rib or Italian bind off. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" from the shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 81-87-93-101-111-119 stitches from the stitch holder on circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Knit 1 row and increase 24-26-26-30-32-36 stitches evenly spaced = 105-113-119-131-143-155 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off in the same way as on the left front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 46-50-52-57-61-66 stitches from the stitch holder on circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Knit 1 row and increase 13-13-15-16-18-19 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side (from the mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off in the same way as on the left front piece.

SLEEVES:
Place the 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 53-57-63-69-73-75 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-2-2-3 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-¾"-¾"-1⅛", decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 7-5-3½-3-2½-2 cm = 2¾"-2"-1¼"-1⅛"-1"-¾" a total of 4-5-7-9-10-10 times = 45-47-49-51-53-55 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 31-29-29-28-27-25 cm = 12¼"-11⅜"-11⅜"-11"-10⅝"-9¾" from the division (or to desired length before the rib. There is 12 cm = 4¾" left).
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4. Knit 1 round and increase 19-21-21-21-23-23 stitches evenly spaced = 64-68-70-72-76-78 stitches. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 12 cm = 4¾". Bind off in the same way as on the front/back pieces. The sleeve measures approx. 43-41-41-40-39-37 cm = 17"-16⅛"-16⅛"-15¾"-15¼"-14½" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

DOUBLE NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 111-115-119-127-131-135 stitches round the neck, with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). The stitch number should be divisible by 4 + 3 – match the rib to the raglan-stitches so they continue to be knitted (from the right side).
Work the first row from the wrong side as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 7 cm = 2¾". Bind off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Continue the rib with 1 garter stitch on each side until the neck measures 14 cm = 5½". Bind off a little loosely. Fold the neck double into the inside and fasten with a couple of stitches in each raglan-line.
Sew together the openings on the bands with small stitches.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Myriam wrote:

Bonjour, Si je ne m’abuse, il y a une erreur pour les boutonnières, c’est écrit « Ouvrir la première boutonnière quand les côtes du col sont terminées. » sauf que l’on monte le col à la fin. Il faut donc commencer les boutonnières dès le début des bordures en point mousse, n’est-ce pas? Ou y a-t-il qqc que je n’ai pas compris? En vous remerciant

12.07.2024 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Myriam, vous avez raison. La partie BOUTONNIÈRES est a reformuler. Vous devez commencer les boutonnières dès le début des bordures en point mousse. Bon tricot!

12.07.2024 - 16:42

country flag Betty wrote:

Hello garnstudio team, me again. When do I start to make the first buttonhole on the right band on the yoke? The hole needs to be incorporated in the first 7 garter stitches, is that right?

24.05.2024 - 00:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Betty, the buttonholes are started on the first row on yoke, ie when you work the first row (with increasing for raglan); they will be worked at the end of row seen from RS = on the right front band stitches. Happy knitting!

24.05.2024 - 08:13

country flag Betty wrote:

Hi, when is the rib on the neck finished? That's when I start making the first buttonhole but I can't understand the meaning. Is it when I start to make the garter stitch, so in the first 7 stitches of garter stitch, I have to incorporate the buttonhole?

16.05.2024 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Betty, rib on double neck measures a total of 14 cm, 7 cm with 7 sts in garter stitch on each side and the last 7 cm with just 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (after the 6 sts have been cast off on each side). Happy knitting!

17.05.2024 - 08:48

country flag Serena wrote:

Hallo zusammen, ich verstehe leider nicht, wie ich in RAGLAN 1 in der 2. Reihe die letzte Raglan Masche stricke, da es ja die allerletzte Masche ist und ich für das "yarn over" raglan keine Masche zum Einstechen habe.

09.05.2024 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Serena, beim RAGLAN-1 nehmen Sie mit Umschläge, bei der nächsten Reihe = Rückreihe stricken Sie diese Umschläge wie erklärt VOR bzw NACH der Raglanmasche, dh auch wie in diesem Video gezeigt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

10.05.2024 - 08:56

country flag Liliane Legrand wrote:

Bonjour a nouveau, je me suis trompee dans ma question pour le modele 245-8. Le Raglan 2 si je comprends bien se fait comme suit: une aug. devant le 1er. marqueur a gauche et ensuite apres le 2eme marqueur a drte, ensuite a gche du 3e. marqueur et a gche du dernier marqueur. Merci d'avance. Lily , ensuite a drte du 3eme. marqueur et apres le 4e marqueur.

13.02.2024 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Legrand, les augmentations-2 se font uniquement sur les devants et le dos, autrement dit, à la fin du devant gauche = avant le 1er marqueur, au début du dos = après le 2ème marqueur, à la fin du dos = avant le 3ème marqueur et au début du devant = après le 4ème marqueur. Bon tricot!

20.02.2024 - 08:58

country flag Liliane Legrand wrote:

Bonjour, le patron 245.8 Si je comprend bien le Raglan 2 se fait sur les 2e et 3e marqueurs? Merci

13.02.2024 - 13:02

country flag Perrone wrote:

Bonjour madame Pour le modele Drops 245-8 et concernant la réalisation du col boulé, il est indiqué, après 7 cm de côtes de rabattre 6 m au début des 2 rangs suivants. Cela signifie-t-il 1 fois 6m en début du premier rang (à l’endroit) et 1 fois 6 m en début du rang suivant (à l’envers) ? Merci par avance pour votre retour

22.01.2024 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Perrone, tout à fait, vous rabattez 6 des mailles de bordure des devants de chaque côté, il reste 1 seule de ces mailles qui est désormais la maille lisière, ainsi quand on double le col, il est moins épais au niveau de la bordure des devants. Bon tricot!

23.01.2024 - 07:20

country flag Jeyagowri Ravichandran wrote:

Hi, Can the pattern be breakdown in row wise instructions, so that it is easier to follow both the Raglan Increases at the same time?

18.01.2024 - 14:20

country flag Diana wrote:

Hola, Me podrían explicar cómo hacer los aumentos para los primeros y últimos puntos reglan1, según línea escote, hilera 2? No me queda claro según la explicación. Gracias

13.01.2024 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Diana, trabajas toda la fila de derecho, pero tienes que aumentar según lo que se indica en RAGLÁN 1. En la 2ª fila, trabajada por el lado derecho, aumentas haciendo 1 hebra simplemente. Estas hebras se trabajarán en la siguiente fila como se indica " por el lado revés". Antes del punto raglán, las hebras se trabajan de revés en el bucle posterior del punto. Después del punto raglán dejar caer la hebra de la fila anterior de la aguja, colocarla de vuelta retorcida y trabajar de revés en el bucle anterior del punto.

14.01.2024 - 19:30

country flag BRIGITTE wrote:

Bonjour Madame, Une précision s'il vous plait : pour le col et les boutonnières du modèle 245-8, faut-il bien commencer la 1ère boutonnière AVANT d'avoir tricoté le col en côtes ? Merci pour votre aide. Cordialement et tous mes Voeux pour 2024.

10.01.2024 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, bonne année 2024 à vous aussi. La 1ère boutonnière se fait au 1er rang sur l'endroit après les côtes, autrement dit, au 1er rang de l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

10.01.2024 - 15:59