Moon Mist Cardigan by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in DROPS Lima and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, double neck and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.
Keywords:
assembly free, double neck, jacket, long sleeves, raglan, round neck, stocking stitch, top down
DROPS 245-8
DROPS Design: Pattern li-157
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 9025, chalk
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-125-150-175-175 g colour 44, moonlight
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 629: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.
KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern li-157
Yarn group B + A
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 9025, chalk
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-125-150-175-175 g colour 44, moonlight
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 629: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.
KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
RAGLAN-1:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter called raglan-stitches.
The raglan-stitches are always worked in stocking stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted as described below, then worked in stocking stitch.
From the wrong side:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Purl the back loop – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Slip the yarn over off the left needle and replace it the other way round (insert the left needle in the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop – no hole.
RAGLAN-2:
Increase 1 stitch before/after the raglan-stitches on the front/back pieces (not on the sleeves). Raglan-2 is worked in addition to Raglan-1. Work as follows:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the raglan-stitches, use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Work 3 stitches past the raglan-stitches (if there are yarn overs, they are not counted as stitches), use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop – no hole.
INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck is finished. Then work the other 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 9½-10-8½-9-9½-10 cm between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neckline is worked first back and forth with circular needles then new stitches are cast on on each side for neckline, then the yoke is continued back and forth from mid-front. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
The neck is worked to finish.
NECKLINE:
Cast on 61-63-65-67-69-71 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).
Insert 4 markers as follows: Insert 1 marker in the first stitch, count 17 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 23-25-27-29-31-33 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 17 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch. These marker stitches are now called raglan-stitches.
Work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 63-65-67-69-71-73 stitches.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit and increase for RAGLAN-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches – read description above (8 increased stitches), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 73-75-77-79-81-83 stitches.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Purl (yarn overs worked as described under Raglan-1), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 75-77-79-81-83-85 stitches.
ROW 4 (right side): Knit and increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 increased stitches), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 85-87-89-91-93-95 stitches.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 88-90-92-94-96-98 stitches.
ROW 6 (right side): Knit, increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 stitches increased), cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 99-101-103-105-107-109 stitches.
ROW 7 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches at the end of the row = 109-113-115-119-121-125 stitches.
ROW 8 (right side): Knit and increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 increased stitches), cast on 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches at the end of the row = 127-133-135-141-143-149 stitches.
ROW 9 (wrong side): Purl, work the outermost 7 stitches on each side in GARTER STITCH – read description above.
The neckline is finished and you have increased 4 times for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches.
YOKE:
Work stocking stitch back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
NOTE: You will now increase more stitches on the front/back pieces than on the sleeves, so you will now work raglan-2 regularly in addition to raglan-1. Read the next 3 paragraphs before continuing.
Increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches every 2nd row (each row from the right side) 3-5-8-13-13-11 times (i.e., 7-9-12-17-17-15 times including the 4 increases on the neckline).
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase for RAGLAN-2 on the front and back pieces – read description above (raglan-2 is worked in addition to raglan-1). Increase for raglan-2 every 10th-12th-12th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 3-3-3-5-6-6 times.
When you have increased for raglan-1 a total of 3-5-8-13-13-11 times, continue to increase for raglan-1 every 2nd row but every second increase is only worked on the front and back pieces (i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row). Increase like this 14-14-12-8-10-14 times on the front/back pieces (7-7-6-4-5-7 times on the sleeves) – remember raglan-2.
You have now increased a total of 24-26-27-30-33-35 times on the front/back pieces (including raglan-2) and 14-16-18-21-22-22 times on the sleeves.
After all the increases for raglan-1 and raglan-2 there are 247-269-283-313-331-345 stitches (41-45-46-51-54-58 stitches on the front pieces between the raglan-stitches, 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on the sleeves and 71-77-81-89-97-103 stitches on the back piece).
Continue with stocking stitch and 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, without further increases, until the piece measures 22-24-25-26-28-30 cm, measured from the cast-on edge, mid-back.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 42-46-47-52-55-59 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 73-79-83-91-99-105 stitches (back piece), place the next 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 42-46-47-52-55-59 stitches (front piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!
BODY:
= 173-187-197-215-233-251 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards – they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue stocking stitch back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the body measures 21-21-22-23-23-23 cm from the division – finish after a row from the wrong side. Now divide the piece at both marker-threads and finish each piece separately.
Place the stitches from the right front piece and back piece on 2 separate stitch holders = 46-50-52-57-61-66 stitches on the needle (left front piece).
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 13-13-15-16-18-19 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm. Cast off with rib or Italian cast off. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder.
BACK PIECE:
Place the 81-87-93-101-111-119 stitches from the stitch holder on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 row and increase 24-26-26-30-32-36 stitches evenly spaced = 105-113-119-131-143-155 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the left front piece.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 46-50-52-57-61-66 stitches from the stitch holder on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 row and increase 13-13-15-16-18-19 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side (from the mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the left front piece.
SLEEVES:
Place the 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 53-57-63-69-73-75 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-2-2-3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 7-5-3½-3-2½-2 cm a total of 4-5-7-9-10-10 times = 45-47-49-51-53-55 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 31-29-29-28-27-25 cm from the division (or to desired length before the rib. There is 12 cm left).
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round and increase 19-21-21-21-23-23 stitches evenly spaced = 64-68-70-72-76-78 stitches. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 12 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the front/back pieces. The sleeve measures approx. 43-41-41-40-39-37 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
DOUBLE NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 111-115-119-127-131-135 stitches round the neck, with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). The stitch number should be divisible by 4 + 3 – match the rib to the raglan-stitches so they continue to be knitted (from the right side).
Work the first row from the wrong side as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 7 cm. Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Continue the rib with 1 garter stitch on each side until the neck measures 14 cm. Cast off a little loosely. Fold the neck double into the inside and fasten with a couple of stitches in each raglan-line.
Sew together the openings on the bands with small stitches.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
RAGLAN-1:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter called raglan-stitches.
The raglan-stitches are always worked in stocking stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted as described below, then worked in stocking stitch.
From the wrong side:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Purl the back loop – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Slip the yarn over off the left needle and replace it the other way round (insert the left needle in the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop – no hole.
RAGLAN-2:
Increase 1 stitch before/after the raglan-stitches on the front/back pieces (not on the sleeves). Raglan-2 is worked in addition to Raglan-1. Work as follows:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the raglan-stitches, use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Work 3 stitches past the raglan-stitches (if there are yarn overs, they are not counted as stitches), use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop – no hole.
INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck is finished. Then work the other 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 9½-10-8½-9-9½-10 cm between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neckline is worked first back and forth with circular needles then new stitches are cast on on each side for neckline, then the yoke is continued back and forth from mid-front. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
The neck is worked to finish.
NECKLINE:
Cast on 61-63-65-67-69-71 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands).
Insert 4 markers as follows: Insert 1 marker in the first stitch, count 17 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 23-25-27-29-31-33 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 17 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch. These marker stitches are now called raglan-stitches.
Work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 63-65-67-69-71-73 stitches.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit and increase for RAGLAN-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches – read description above (8 increased stitches), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 73-75-77-79-81-83 stitches.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Purl (yarn overs worked as described under Raglan-1), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 75-77-79-81-83-85 stitches.
ROW 4 (right side): Knit and increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 increased stitches), cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row = 85-87-89-91-93-95 stitches.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 88-90-92-94-96-98 stitches.
ROW 6 (right side): Knit, increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 stitches increased), cast on 3 stitches at the end of the row = 99-101-103-105-107-109 stitches.
ROW 7 (wrong side): Purl, cast on 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches at the end of the row = 109-113-115-119-121-125 stitches.
ROW 8 (right side): Knit and increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches (8 increased stitches), cast on 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches at the end of the row = 127-133-135-141-143-149 stitches.
ROW 9 (wrong side): Purl, work the outermost 7 stitches on each side in GARTER STITCH – read description above.
The neckline is finished and you have increased 4 times for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches.
YOKE:
Work stocking stitch back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
NOTE: You will now increase more stitches on the front/back pieces than on the sleeves, so you will now work raglan-2 regularly in addition to raglan-1. Read the next 3 paragraphs before continuing.
Increase for raglan-1 on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches every 2nd row (each row from the right side) 3-5-8-13-13-11 times (i.e., 7-9-12-17-17-15 times including the 4 increases on the neckline).
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase for RAGLAN-2 on the front and back pieces – read description above (raglan-2 is worked in addition to raglan-1). Increase for raglan-2 every 10th-12th-12th-8th-6th-6th row a total of 3-3-3-5-6-6 times.
When you have increased for raglan-1 a total of 3-5-8-13-13-11 times, continue to increase for raglan-1 every 2nd row but every second increase is only worked on the front and back pieces (i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row). Increase like this 14-14-12-8-10-14 times on the front/back pieces (7-7-6-4-5-7 times on the sleeves) – remember raglan-2.
You have now increased a total of 24-26-27-30-33-35 times on the front/back pieces (including raglan-2) and 14-16-18-21-22-22 times on the sleeves.
After all the increases for raglan-1 and raglan-2 there are 247-269-283-313-331-345 stitches (41-45-46-51-54-58 stitches on the front pieces between the raglan-stitches, 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on the sleeves and 71-77-81-89-97-103 stitches on the back piece).
Continue with stocking stitch and 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, without further increases, until the piece measures 22-24-25-26-28-30 cm, measured from the cast-on edge, mid-back.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 42-46-47-52-55-59 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 73-79-83-91-99-105 stitches (back piece), place the next 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 42-46-47-52-55-59 stitches (front piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!
BODY:
= 173-187-197-215-233-251 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards – they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue stocking stitch back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the body measures 21-21-22-23-23-23 cm from the division – finish after a row from the wrong side. Now divide the piece at both marker-threads and finish each piece separately.
Place the stitches from the right front piece and back piece on 2 separate stitch holders = 46-50-52-57-61-66 stitches on the needle (left front piece).
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 13-13-15-16-18-19 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm. Cast off with rib or Italian cast off. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder.
BACK PIECE:
Place the 81-87-93-101-111-119 stitches from the stitch holder on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 row and increase 24-26-26-30-32-36 stitches evenly spaced = 105-113-119-131-143-155 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the left front piece.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 46-50-52-57-61-66 stitches from the stitch holder on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 row and increase 13-13-15-16-18-19 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 59-63-67-73-79-85 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side (from the mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the left front piece.
SLEEVES:
Place the 45-49-53-59-61-61 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 53-57-63-69-73-75 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-2-2-3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 7-5-3½-3-2½-2 cm a total of 4-5-7-9-10-10 times = 45-47-49-51-53-55 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 31-29-29-28-27-25 cm from the division (or to desired length before the rib. There is 12 cm left).
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Knit 1 round and increase 19-21-21-21-23-23 stitches evenly spaced = 64-68-70-72-76-78 stitches. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 12 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the front/back pieces. The sleeve measures approx. 43-41-41-40-39-37 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
DOUBLE NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 111-115-119-127-131-135 stitches round the neck, with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). The stitch number should be divisible by 4 + 3 – match the rib to the raglan-stitches so they continue to be knitted (from the right side).
Work the first row from the wrong side as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 7 cm. Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Continue the rib with 1 garter stitch on each side until the neck measures 14 cm. Cast off a little loosely. Fold the neck double into the inside and fasten with a couple of stitches in each raglan-line.
Sew together the openings on the bands with small stitches.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Diagram
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 299 catalogues and 11093 patterns - 11093 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour, Je voudrais réaliser Moon Mist Cardigan mais remplacer le fil lima. Puis-je le remplacer par 2 fils baby alpaca silk et donc 539g? Je tricoterais ainsi ensemble mais 2 fils de baby alpaca silk + 1 fil de kid silk. Qu'en pensez-vous? Merci
08.09.2023 - 23:04DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Emmanuelle, Baby Alpaca Silk appartenait au groupe A de nos fils, vous pouvez ainsi tricoter avec 1 fil Baby Alpaca Silk + 1 fil Kid-Silk, mais vous n'aurez pas la même texture que le modèle photographié, car on a ici, avec Lima et kid-Silk une texture plus épaisse. Calculez le métrage nécessaire dans votre taille en Lima et divisez ce métrage par celui d'une pelote Baby Alpaca Silk pour en connaître la quantité. Pensez à bien faire un échantillon au préalable pour vérifier non seulement votre tension mais également si la texture vous convient. Bon tricot!
11.09.2023 kl. 08:34Hallo DROPS, fijn die nieuwe patronen en ook weer mooie foto's . Eerlijk gezegd mis ik daarbij wel iets: er staat soms geen foto van de achterkant bij. Als dat wel zo is, hangt er vaak (wat langer) haar voor, zodat je niet goed ziet hoe de hoogte van het breipatroon in de nek loopt. Het is op het telpatroon wel aangegeven, maar een foto maakt meer duidelijk. Kan er voortaan 1 foto bij waarop het model het haar iets opzij houdt? Vriendelijke groet, Conny
29.08.2023 - 12:30DROPS Design answered:
Dag Conny,
Bedankt voor de tip, ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling.
04.09.2023 kl. 20:34Fluffy cloud
07.08.2023 - 10:20Snowflake
07.08.2023 - 06:30Schöner Winterpulli
06.08.2023 - 14:16SEA-TIME
05.08.2023 - 19:49👏😍
05.08.2023 - 16:41Style
04.08.2023 - 22:21Outdoorsy and comfortable while still very stylish. Great combo.
03.08.2023 - 16:31North wind
03.08.2023 - 14:48