Foggy Autumn Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down, with raglan and double bands. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 236-33
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-404
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-102-110-120-132-138 cm = 96-102-110-120-132-138
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color 10, fog

DROPS BUTTONS NO 630: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 8.95 CAD /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 8.95 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 8.95 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.75CAD. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase to raglan on each side of each marker-stitch as follows: Work to the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over (= 8 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn overs as follows:
BEFORE marker-stitch: Purl the yarn over twisted.
AFTER marker-stitch: Slip the yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit, place it back onto the left needle the other way round (twisted), purl the yarn over.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
The buttonholes are worked on the right band:
Work the first 6 stitches, turn and work the same stitches back, turn and work these 6 stitches again. Cut the strand.
Work 4 rows over the remaining 6 band stitches (first row from the right side) and knit together the last stitch from the right side and the stitch on the edge of the jacket. On the last row from the right side work all the band stitches as before.
Work the buttonholes when the band measures:
S: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 48 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/8", 8 3/4", 12 1/4", 15 3/4" and 19".
M: 4, 14, 23, 33, 41 and 50 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/2", 9", 13", 16 1/8" and 19 3/4".
L: 4, 14, 24, 34, 43 and 52 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/2", 9 1/2", 13 3/8", 17" and 20 1/2".
XL: 6, 16, 26, 36, 45 and 54 cm = 2 3/8", 6 1/4", 10 1/4", 14 1/4", 17 3/4" and 21 1/4".
XXL: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40, 48 and 56 cm = 1 1/2", 5 1/8", 8 3/4", 12 1/4", 15 3/4", 19" and 22".
XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 58 cm = 2", 5 1/2", 9", 12 1/2", 16 1/8", 19 3/4" and 22 3/4".

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 79-82-88-91-94-97 stitches with DROPS Air using 2 circular needles, sizes 4 and 5.5 MM = US 9, held together.
Pull out the needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 (doing this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 2, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 9 cm = 3 1/2", fold the neck double to the inside. On the next row, knit from right side, at the same time work every 2nd stitch together with every 2nd stitch from the cast-on edge.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9.
Insert 1 marker inside the 1 edge stitch; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Purl 1 row from the wrong side and increase 13-14-16-9-10-13 stitches evenly spaced = 92-96-104-100-104-110 stitches.
Insert 4 markers (without working the stitches) as follows:
Count 15-16-18-17-18-19 stitches (front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 14 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 30-32-36-34-36-40 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 14 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, there are 15-16-18-17-18-19 stitches after the last marker-stitch (front piece).
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker-stitch – read RAGLAN above.
Increase like this, each row from the right side, a total of 17-19-20-24-26-27 times = 228-248-264-292-312-326 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the yoke measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm = 8"-8 3/4"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8".
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 34-37-39-43-47-49 stitches, place the next 46-50-54-60-62-64 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work 68-74-78-86-94-99 stitches, place the next 46-50-54-60-62-64 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 34-37-39-43-47-50 stitches.

BODY:
= 152-164-176-192-212-222 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for a further 24-24-24-25-25-25 cm = 9 1/2"-9 1/2"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4". Now increase 14-14-17-19-20-22 stitches evenly on the next row from the right side = 166-178-193-211-232-244 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib from the wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8", from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 46-50-54-60-62-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stockinette stitch in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-4-3-2-2-1½ cm = 1 5/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-1/2" a total of 7-8-10-13-14-14 times = 40-42-44-44-46-48 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-33-31-31-29-28 cm = 13 3/8"-13"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-11 3/8"-11" from the division, increase 5-6-7-7-5-6 stitches evenly spaced = 45-48-51-51-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (purl 2, knit 1) for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-39-37-36 cm = 16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-14 1/2"-14 1/4" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

RIGHT BAND:
The band is worked bottom up. Wind out a 90 to 120 cm = 35 1/2" to 47 1/4" yarn-end and use it to knit up stitches along the front piece (this means you can continue working without cutting the strand afterwards):
Start at the bottom and knit up 1 stitch in each row, inside the 1 edge stitch, with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air.
Work from the end of the needle, where the wool-ball is = bottom of the front piece.
Cast on 12 stitches from the wrong side, extending the band outwards. Work back and forth over these 12 stitches and work the band together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (right side): Slip the first stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, * knit 1, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the band, slip the last stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, keeping the strand at the back, knit the next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): * Slip the first/next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, knit 1 *, work from *-* over all 12 band-stitches, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When all the stitches on the front piece are worked together with the band, knit all stitches together 2 and 2, then bind off.

LEFT BAND:
The band is worked bottom up.
Start at the top and knit up 1 stitch down the front piece in each row, working inside the 1 edge stitch, with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air.
Cast on 12 stitches at the bottom, extending the band outwards. Work back and forth over these 12 stitches and work the band together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (wrong side): Knit 1, * slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left on the band, slip the next 2 stitches onto the right needle as if to purl together, keeping the strand in front, turn.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 2 together, * slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, slip the last stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
When all the stitches on the front piece are worked together with the band, work together as follows from the right side: Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 236-33) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

to top

8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Martina Zelená wrote:

Hi there, after washing boths bands are too loose. I tried to fix it during blocking, but they still look like they are longer than the right and left parts. Any idea how to fix/adjust it? Thanks.

16.02.2024 - 14:41

country flag Hanne wrote:

Er ved at lukke højre forkant af \r\nSkal jeg strikke 2 og 2 masker sammen fra vrang og lukke resten af fra ret siden vh Hanne

04.02.2024 - 23:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Strikk 2 masker sammen, fell av denne masken som vanlig, strikk 2 masker sammen, fell av denne masken som vanlig, strikk 2 masker sammen, fell av denne masken som vanlig osv osv. mvh DROPS Design

12.02.2024 - 13:57

country flag Maria Nielsen wrote:

Hej Jeg har nu strikke den højre forkant, men det er som om forkanten trækker sig meget mere sammen en resten af cardiganen, idet den jo strikkes på en tyndere pind. Er dette meningen for syntes ikke den ser sådan ud på biledet?

04.02.2024 - 21:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Litt vanskelig å svare da jeg ikke ser plagget, men om du har strikket opp 1 maske i hver strikkede pinne langs hele forstykket med pinne 5, så skal det bli slik du ser på bildet. Stolpen som er dobbeltstrikket får jo en litt mer tyngde i seg enn plagget og om du evnt. prøver å dampe det lett (ikke legg strykejernet på selve plagget, men hold det noen cm over og damp), så skal det bli bra. mvh DROPS Design

12.02.2024 - 13:43

country flag Ute O wrote:

Hi, die Maschenverteilung der Passe XL stimmt nicht! Bei 104 Maschen muss es heißen : 19+14+38+14+19. LG Ute

04.02.2024 - 12:30

country flag Jan Cuthbwrt wrote:

This pattern and a lot of others are being sold on e t s y by a person called knitting pattern world.

02.02.2024 - 14:45

country flag Mona Gumabon wrote:

Hej! Tänkte sticka denna cardigan i Fabel nr 677 och KidSilk nr 21 och nr 24, en tråd av varje. Tror du att färgkombinationen passar bra ihop och att stickfastigheten kommer att stämma? Såg ett inslag på facebook där dessa garner blandades men i rosa och rött, blev inspirerad att prova. Vänliga hälsningar Mona

15.01.2024 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mona, wow, det låter verkligen superfint :) Tagga oss eller skicka oss en bild #dropsfan galleri :)

16.01.2024 - 14:42

country flag Jutta wrote:

Soll das Bündchen des Rumpfteils tatsächlich 2 rechts/1 links statt 2links/1 rechts wie Halsblende und Ärmel sein? Auf den Fotos sehen alle Bündchen gleich aus, also 2 links/1 rechts.

14.01.2024 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jutta, ja beide Bündchen sind gleich, aber die 1. Reihe beim Rumpfteil wird eine Rückreihe, so strickt man 2 rechts, 1 links bei den Rückreihen aber 1 rechts, 2 links, bei den Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.01.2024 - 09:50

country flag Hanne wrote:

Hej Drops Forstår ikke afsnittet højre forkant. Er der en video man kan se

11.01.2024 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, ja, du finder videoen nederst i opskriften "Hvordan dobbeltstrikkes en forkant... " :)

11.01.2024 - 13:58

country flag Lies wrote:

Bij de start na de meerderheden voor maat S staan er 92 steken op de naald. Bij de verdeling van de steken met de markeerdraden worden er maar 88 steken verdeeld + 2 kantsteken zijn 90 ipv 92 steken

24.12.2023 - 14:19

country flag Francoise wrote:

Bonjour Merci pour ces magnifiques modèles. Est il possible de tricoter le cardigan Foggy autumn avec 1 fil Puna et 1 fil Kid Silk ? Merci de votre aide

21.12.2023 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, tout à fait, vérifiez que vous obtenez bien l'échantillon (ajustez la taille des aiguilles si besoin) et que vous aimez la texture obtenue. Bon tricot!

21.12.2023 - 15:48

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 236-33

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.