DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
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Frost Buster Balaclava

Knitted hat / balaclava in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with moss stitch and ribbed edges

DROPS 225-7

#frostbusterbalaclava

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-360
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S/M – L
Fits head size: 54/56 – 58 cm = 21¼"/22" – 22¾"

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150 g color 02, wheat

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 - 60 cm = 16" – 24" for moss stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" for rib.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

MOSS STITCH:
Round/row 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* to end of round/row.
Round/row 2: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
Repeat round/row 2 onwards.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 115 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 23) = 5.
In this example decrease by knitting together each 4th and 5th stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BALACLAVA – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. Stitches are slipped on a thread for the face-opening and the piece finished back and forth.
The hood is sewn together at the top. A ribbed double edge is worked around the face-opening.

BALACLAVA:
Cast on, slightly loosely, 115-127 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Air. Work 1 round of stockinette stitch, then work MOSS STITCH – read description above. Remember the KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 6 cm = 2⅜", work 2 rounds of stockinette stitch – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease 23-25 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 92-102 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work 4 rounds of rib (knit 1, purl 1).
After this rib, change back to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit 1 round where you decrease 5-5 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE TIP = 87-97 stitches.
Continue with moss stitch in the round until the piece measures 14 cm = 5½" from the cast-on edge in both sizes.
On the next round place the middle 17-19 stitches mid-front on a thread, leaving an opening mid front = 70-78 stitches on the needle.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row (= mid-back). Allow the marker to follow your work onwards – it will be used when dividing the piece at the top.
Now work the hood as described below.

HOOD:
Continue back and forth with moss stitch over all stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 40-42 cm = 15¾"-16½" from the cast-on edge (the piece measures approx. 26-28 cm = 10¼"-11" from the division mid-front). There is approx. 3 cm = 1⅛" left to finished length; try the balaclava on and continue to desired length.
Now bind off stitches mid-back. Divide the piece at the marker and complete each section separately as described below.

SECTION 1:
= 35-39 stitches. Continue with moss stitch back and forth and bind off at the beginning of each row from mid-back as follows: Bind off 1 stitch 1 time, 2 stitches 2 times and 3 stitches 1 time = 27-31 stitches left. Knit 1 row from the right side. Bind off with knit from the right side. The piece measures approx. 43-45 cm = 17"-17¾" from the top down.

SECTION 2:
Work in the same way as Section 1.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the balaclava together at the top, inside the bind-off edge.

EDGE AROUND FACE-OPENING:
Place the stitches from the thread mid-font on circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Purl over knit and knit over purl over these 17-19 stitches, then knit up 111 to 125 stitches inside 1 stitch around the whole opening = 128 to 144 stitches. The number of stitches should be divisible by 2. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 6-7 cm = 2⅜"-2¾". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
Fold the ribbed edge double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the edge being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 13.10.2021
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4. Work 4 rounds of rib (knit 1, purl 1). After this rib, change back to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit 1 round where you decrease 5-5 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE TIP = 87-97 stitches.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Frost Buster Balaclava

Sónia Martins Da Cunha, Netherlands

Comments / Questions (30)

Betb wrote:

Mine came out nice but very small around the face hole, any ideas to make it more loose like the picture? It's not right on the head just the face bit

29.11.2024 - 00:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Betb, maybe your rib edge is too tight. Unfortunately, the only help in this case is to rip out the edge and knit it looser again - either on larger needles or add stitches so that the pattern doesn't stretch as much. Happy knitting!

30.11.2024 - 13:55

Sophie DUPIRE wrote:

Bonjour, Peut-on tricoter une cagoule avec des aiguilles droites. Si oui où peut-on trouver les explications. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse

24.11.2024 - 15:04

Bonjour Mme Dupire, retrouvez tous nos modèles de cagoule ici - pour vous aider à adapter les explications sur aiguilles droites, vous pourrez retrouvez quelques infos ici. Bon tricot!

25.11.2024 - 09:20

Christina Axelsson wrote:

Hej. Sitter o stickar balakavla o kommer inte vidare nu när jag har satt 17 maskor på tråd. Hur ska jag fortsätta.

22.11.2024 - 10:45

Rhina Misha Rusbjerg wrote:

Tak for svaret. Men hvorfor når jeg nu bestiller garnet via det I skriver i opskriften - skriver I så ikke det med dobbelt tråd? Mener den er misvisende specielt fordi jeg jo anvender de foreslået garner.

19.11.2024 - 11:56

Hej Rhina, hjælp os gerne, Vi har strikket den i 1 tråd DROPS Air, men hvor skriver vi at vi anbefaler 1 tråd DROPS Nord?

22.11.2024 - 13:57

Anne wrote:

Je suis en train de le faire et c est très simple Très économique aussi en laine. Merci pour avoir partagé votre expérience.

17.11.2024 - 14:03

Hej, Er i gang med denne. Synes den er lidt tynd i det - men kan ikke se at der står noget med to tråde. Har købt 3 nøgler Drops Nord uni Color som er bestilt her vis opskriften. Men kan se jeg ikke engang når at bruge 2. Hvad har jeg gjort galt? Hilsner Rhina

15.11.2024 - 13:05

Hej Rhina, den her balaclava er strikket i DROPS Air. DROPS Nord er tyndere, så hvis du vil bruge den skal du strikke med dobbelt tråd - og det går fint :)

19.11.2024 - 11:14

Gosia wrote:

Chciałabym zamienić włóczkę na brushed alpaca silk, czy będzie to dobry wybór? A może dodać jeszcze włóczkę merino? Jeśli tak to ile zakupić poszczególnych włóczek?

09.11.2024 - 21:26

Witaj Gosiu, z samej brushed alpaki komin może być zbyt przewiewny. Ja połączyłabym DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk z DROPS Baby Merino, zobacz TUTAJ. Pamiętaj o próbce, w razie czego weź nieco mniejsze druty. Ile dokładnie każdej włóczki potrzebujesz trudno mi oszacować. Pomocy w tej sprawie może udzielić Ci pracownik sklepu, w którym kupujesz nasze włóczki. Pozdrawiamy!

12.11.2024 - 09:20

Marna wrote:

This was very easy and it was fairly easy to understand! This was my first ever knit project and it turned out really well. A coworker of mine helped me alot with thos too and actually had me knit the two sides of the hood together instead of sowing them together which helped it stay elastic! I made this as a gift for my mom, but I do wanna make one for myself too 😂

02.11.2024 - 19:36

Jeanne wrote:

Hej… Jeg forstår ikke helt hvad jeg skal gøre efter jeg har strikket 39 masker i perlestrik og sat 19 masker til at hvile… hvordan kommer jeg over på den “anden side” af de masker der er sat til at hvile så jeg kan strikke de sidste 39 masker, uden at der bliver et hul?

22.10.2024 - 21:39

Hej Jeanne, du vender arbejdet og strikker frem og tilbage fra de masker som sidder på tråden og om på den anden side af maskerne som sidder på tråden :)

23.10.2024 - 15:23

Maria Ignacia wrote:

Hola quería saber si tienen video para hacer este Balaclava?

08.08.2024 - 22:50

Hola Maria Ignacia, todos los videos relevantes para realizar esta labor los puedes encontrar en la pestaña videos, en la parte superior del patrón. No disponemos de un video paso a paso para esta labor.

11.08.2024 - 13:24